probably the de lights! i just got mine hung and lit up in the veg room. they are on 6' centers and in the middle between 4 of them them 36" below the fixtures i got 1100 umols.
they are a whole new class of light for sure.
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Blah's First Ppk
- Thread starter Mr Blah
- Start date
probably the de lights! i just got mine hung and lit up in the veg room. they are on 6' centers and in the middle between 4 of them them 36" below the fixtures i got 1100 umols.
they are a whole new class of light for sure.
To the people following my thread about the latest leak I had in my latest flower tent.
The leak has stopped for the most part. I see dried up water stains and no standing water. I have to crawl in the tent for a final look but it seems that it has stopped. FFFeww. That was close.
I am going to look at my last tent being constructed a bit closer on the rubber hose connected to the 2" before the final install.
The leak has stopped for the most part. I see dried up water stains and no standing water. I have to crawl in the tent for a final look but it seems that it has stopped. FFFeww. That was close.
I am going to look at my last tent being constructed a bit closer on the rubber hose connected to the 2" before the final install.
which light you go with?? running my lights on a 5x6 pattern, my de crash course consisted of, having to up food for the most part. learn that they are about 25-30% bighter. i also openned my refelctors as they where too concentrated down. atleast give 2ft above canopy for established plants, 30" on 600 for fresh transplants. ease into the watt increase. there is no way you can get de bulbs close like the horitlux 1000's... no way.
also, philips bulbs for the win. knock off bulbs work the first 2 runs, but they degrade quickly...
at 2ft canopy height, with my apogee par meter, set to 850w i get 1000 umol under the light. if i up it to 1150, i get 1900 umol at 2 feet. i gotta update my thread. so many new things happening...
blah. i have noticed that sometimes the photo sensor on timers can cause multiple feeds quickly, causing the buckets to overflow. it has happened before to me where the timer was set to both day an night feedings, when the timer sees night to day or day to night it restarts the water timer,feeds then waits. but sometimes if the photo sensor is under canopy, or you go into room an do something, it sees the light or dark change an resets the the timer. i also had another incident where the timer is way under canopy, it was bouncing from day to night settings all within minutes from each other. u could also go in at night with a flashlight to check on things an the timer may see the light, or light from other room, change to the daylight feed sced, feed, then you move the light as u leave the room, an now it see's dark again an switches to dark mode, an starts to feed then wait all over again.... all causing multiple feeds to quickly
bsafe
I don't think my Sentinel DRT-1 timer has a photo eye.
I will check. I just changed it's on time for 18sec vs 30sec.
The older 4 month veg plants are the issue for the most part. I can play around with the smaller 3 week vegged ones. I do have one 3 week vegged plant that has been hiding under the underbrush of the bigger one that is not draining. I think I am going to take D9 and Av8or advice and replant the whole plant into another bucket and try that route.
I am glad the water leak issue is gone.
I will check. I just changed it's on time for 18sec vs 30sec.
The older 4 month veg plants are the issue for the most part. I can play around with the smaller 3 week vegged ones. I do have one 3 week vegged plant that has been hiding under the underbrush of the bigger one that is not draining. I think I am going to take D9 and Av8or advice and replant the whole plant into another bucket and try that route.
I am glad the water leak issue is gone.
my cap art timer u cannot shut off photocell. only switch from day, night, or both. lately i think day is the option i like best. but i may have to increase feed slightly
blah, have you checked the amount of water delivered in one feed cycle?? all i do is move the drip ring off the plant to water into another bucket. as stated before the new idea, atleast with me, an some talk with delta, is a quart of water every 90 mins or so. 2hrs seems to work too. but i found as the plant gets bigger u may need to switch back to 90 min., instead of increasing feed per watering.
also the plants closer to the feed pump will without a doubt receive higher pressure an more water per feed. therefore u may have to put ball valves on the closer sites to slow it down. slowing it down will increase the feed to the further sites.. best way to meter feeds..
bsafe
Thanks Gmanwho, I got a ball valve on each site feed.
The first thing I did was back off the valve on the sites that where flooding. Practically off. It is something in the way I planted, medium, or to big of a pump.
I have done the test and I get a quart exactly when the valves are wide open through each ring. I am going to get some smaller pumps next.
First I am going to plant 8 more since I have the room now in veg tent. Pay more attention to planting and document each step, so I will post on Mon or Tues with the results as I don't see my cloner lady till then.
GOt to take a dump and I will think about it as that is my thinking room.
The first thing I did was back off the valve on the sites that where flooding. Practically off. It is something in the way I planted, medium, or to big of a pump.
I have done the test and I get a quart exactly when the valves are wide open through each ring. I am going to get some smaller pumps next.
First I am going to plant 8 more since I have the room now in veg tent. Pay more attention to planting and document each step, so I will post on Mon or Tues with the results as I don't see my cloner lady till then.
GOt to take a dump and I will think about it as that is my thinking room.
i bought used sunlight supply ac/de fixtures. they throw a very even footprint on a 5x5 with 30" of headroom.
...GOt to take a dump and I will think about it as that is my thinking room.
Hahahaha that is too much, me too lol. I'm glad I'm not the only disgusting one around here.
Blah I don't want to hijack your thread brother but I would really like to talk with those who are using DE's as I am too and set 600w I am still getting heat stress with the lights 36 above the plants. My rooms temps are low 75ish and my leaf temps measuring in at 73F. I was struggling with low humidity (25-30%) range so I had to get a humidifier for the room. It runs 24/7 and is keeping the RH now at 65-70%. Does anybody have any advice for me? Does this sound right?
You could disable the photocell by placing tape or some other type of object over the photocell and switching the photocell to it's night setting.
Snook
Still Learning
hello DT. 1 question.
how can there be heat stress without heat? the humididier you have, is it like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-Air-70...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00L2L3OXQ
This type humidifier will be fed by remote rez. the drugstore type humidifier can not supply enough h20 into the air fast enough for it to take affect. some pics would be nice.
sounds like a vegetative room. at those temps you are not getting heat stress, you are probably getting light stress.
with the 600 setting and at 36" inches you are probably getting slightly less than 1000 umols of light. if you were flowering that would be 12 hours at 1000 umols which comes to 43.2 moles of light.
but you are not flowering so if your lights were running 24 hours per day you would be getting 86.4 moles. this is a huge amount of light considering the most sunlit places on earth get around 70-72 moles per day.
you are probably running them a lesser number of hours per day but even at 18/6 you would be getting 64.8 moles, which is still a huge amount of light.
i have found that when using extremely powerful lighting that 8/4/8/4 vegetative timing gets high speed growth. each 8 hour period at 1000 umols delivers 28.8 moles so that would be 57.6 moles total per day but giving the plant time to use the photosynthate between applications.
this may not reflect your actual circumstances but demonstrates the principle.
in a vegetative room the temperature should be 82/86f and the rh should be around 80% +/- 5.
i just bought one of those exactly for my 352 sq ft, 3168 cu ft veg room. it has it's own float valve so i am feedng it from 4 drums with a 1/4" id line.
with the directional dome top thing on the machine i could not get rh above 52% so i took it off and it went to 99%. apparently the dome top acts as a condenser and lets a lot of moisture go back down into the reservoir.
so then i had to buy a sunlight supply eos-1 controller also but now i have precision control over humidity.
one nice thing is that it happily digest tap water without throwing a fine white powder over everything in the room like the ultrasonics did.
Thanks for the reply snook, When my clones were first planted I put them directly under a DE bulb set at 600w. I started at 24" above but then moved it to 36" when I noticed the heat stress. The heat stress (or what I think is heat stress) was also while my RH was very low so I also bought a cheapy homeowner type humidifier. It has been working though. I'm putting about 1 gallon of water in the air every day now in order to maintain 70% RH. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JYIAUEY/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480878234&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=humidifiers
Here are some pics of the heat stress.
WaxiTaxi thanks for chiming in. I am so glad you posted that chart. I have seen similar vpd charts like that. DJM has one in his Coco Trees thread that I was drooling over earlier today.
I have a question about those charts maybe you can help. In those charts is the temp and humidity taken from the air or the canopy? The canopy right???
with proper air movement it shouldn't matter.
I am currently running my lights 18/6. If it is light stress as opposed to heat stress would the answer be as easy as raising the lamp?
