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Black out rubbermaid
- Thread starter monkeyman
- Start date
Aluminum duct tape or Black duct tape. If looks matter to you, spraypaint them, but ONLY with the type formulated for plastics. It'll say it on the bottle. If you don't, the paint won't bond correctly, and end up flaking off EVERYWHERE.
Yes, that's experience talking
Yes, that's experience talking
Oger's Revenge
New member
I have a bunch of rubbermaid roughnecks that I have preped for DWC use and what I did was use a automotive undercoating that contains rubber and ashphalt to black them out, then a coat or two of flat white paint over top of that.
I did a little test with a 2,000,000 candle power hand spotlight and I can say without a doubt that they are lightproof.
So far I've done 2x14 gallon and 2x10 gallon plus 2 of the small 3 gallon sizes and I've used about $15.00 worth of paint and undercoating. I did buy on sale but some smart shopping and I think you could do your container for close to the price of the duct tape. I don't think you'll get any better results on the grow but it does look pretty...
If you use a brand of undercoat that contains ashpalt then I would be sure to let them cure for a while before the white paint goes on. This will give you a tough non tacky surface with no smell of the ashphalt what so ever... and of course be careful with the overspray so as not to allow it to get on any inside surfaces.
Good luck and I hope this helps
Cheers
-Oger-
P.S. The undercoat sticks like a dream so no work needs to be done prior to painting and no special plastic friendly paint is needed.
I did a little test with a 2,000,000 candle power hand spotlight and I can say without a doubt that they are lightproof.
So far I've done 2x14 gallon and 2x10 gallon plus 2 of the small 3 gallon sizes and I've used about $15.00 worth of paint and undercoating. I did buy on sale but some smart shopping and I think you could do your container for close to the price of the duct tape. I don't think you'll get any better results on the grow but it does look pretty...
If you use a brand of undercoat that contains ashpalt then I would be sure to let them cure for a while before the white paint goes on. This will give you a tough non tacky surface with no smell of the ashphalt what so ever... and of course be careful with the overspray so as not to allow it to get on any inside surfaces.
Good luck and I hope this helps
Cheers
-Oger-
P.S. The undercoat sticks like a dream so no work needs to be done prior to painting and no special plastic friendly paint is needed.
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tokinsmokin
Active member
Krylon fusion paint, this is the paint NiteTiger is talking about. It works so great, its a spray can so you just have to spray it on and it will fuse to the plastic.
You could also do what NiteTiger said and use Aluminum Foil tape on the outside, this is what I do and it works great also.
You could also do what NiteTiger said and use Aluminum Foil tape on the outside, this is what I do and it works great also.
dan kay said:the og growfaq recommended plastidip i got some at home depot and a couple of coats of this and you're good to go. its a liquid plastic coating you brush on that's a lot thicker than spray paint.
i tired the plastic dip...
pain in the ass to use and get a even coating o the inside...
probably better to just use aluminum tape on the whole outside..
AlexanderS
Active member
duct tapes work well, cover lotsa area, or black spraypaint
the krylon is how i did my bubble cloners. i used 2 coats and never looked back. the lid has started to flake from being wet and flexing all the time when lifted. the base is perfect still. 5 min each coat and done. i used black over silver they are covered by canopy in a system newayz. the lids i would use waterproofingaluminum tape. ask for that by name. will help with the reflectivity when they are still small also with a better bond than the paint on the lid IMO.
sir
sir
The best way is to start with an opaque container to begin with. A clear container with tons of coats of tape / paint isn't quite the same thing as a container made of black material; in fact, far from it.
If you can't get black, get the darkest, most opaque container you can find to start with, then lightproof more as necessary. I find that aluminum tape is extremely expensive for the task; for instance, if using 5 gallon buckets, getting black buckets is oftentimes far cheaper and more effective than getting semi-translucent buckets and having to go through desperate lengths to lightproof it. Ok enough of that sermon.
Also something to keep in mind is that the type of plastic resins used in producing typical "clear" or translucent containers is quite different than the typical opaque Rubbermaid types, the major difference being that it's much more fragile / brittle and can easily crack and shatter on you.
A warning on "spraypaint for plastics" (or maybe any kind) on Rubbermaid (the rubbery kind!): I don't recommend it at all; it flaked and rubbed off easily even after a decent dry / cure time.
If you can't get black, get the darkest, most opaque container you can find to start with, then lightproof more as necessary. I find that aluminum tape is extremely expensive for the task; for instance, if using 5 gallon buckets, getting black buckets is oftentimes far cheaper and more effective than getting semi-translucent buckets and having to go through desperate lengths to lightproof it. Ok enough of that sermon.
Also something to keep in mind is that the type of plastic resins used in producing typical "clear" or translucent containers is quite different than the typical opaque Rubbermaid types, the major difference being that it's much more fragile / brittle and can easily crack and shatter on you.
A warning on "spraypaint for plastics" (or maybe any kind) on Rubbermaid (the rubbery kind!): I don't recommend it at all; it flaked and rubbed off easily even after a decent dry / cure time.
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