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BigBudBill's Chem 4 Medi grow

BigBudBill

BigBudBill

Active member
I got these clones from a collective close by. Supposed to be chem 4 from a reputable source. I have never grown this strain but these plants stink(like chem dried buds) even before flowering!

These plants were vegged outside for 3 weeks while waiting for my grow room to be finished. The plants were topped after 1 week of veg. The light was flipped to 12/12 on 7-10 and I did some minor pruning.

400w HPS
FFOF/Perlite mix 9x 2G pots
Day temps 75F-80F
Day RH 55%
Night temps 70F-74F
Night RH 60-65%

Day 2



Day 11


Day 15


Day 21

 
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BigBudBill

BigBudBill

Active member
I chucked some Sweet Tooth x Sour Bubble pollen on a smaller branch today. Hoping to get some Sweet n Sour Chem seeds in about a month!
 
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S

Sir_Nugget

ur gro method is solid and it will only be a few more weeks before u have beautiful chem#4 colas to stare at, good job! what do you water with? hope not too much hydro ferts, use those at a minimum,
 
BigBudBill

BigBudBill

Active member
Sir_Nugget said:
ur gro method is solid and it will only be a few more weeks before u have beautiful chem#4 colas to stare at, good job! what do you water with? hope not too much hydro ferts, use those at a minimum,
Click to expand...


Thanks! I use RO water and feed GH 0-8-16 once a week, starting at 1 week of 12/12. The FFOF is pretty hot so I didnt nute it at all during veg or 1st week of stretch.
I have been told these run 9-10 weeks, does that sound right? Should I start flush at week 8?

BBB
 
S

Sir_Nugget

9-10 weeks is right, they will need those rods if u take em that long, because they will start to fall over and touch the ground without them... they would'nt be bad if taken at week 8 tho, hell I chop plants during week 6-7, and it is some fire.
 
dagnabit

dagnabit

Game Bred
Veteran
TAG!!!

i be watchin you!!!

can you get the dark period temps down to below 70° @ night?

do that the last 2 weeks and watch those colors POP!

i posted this elswhere about color.


think about fall..

A color palette needs pigments, and there are three types that are involved in autumn color.
Chlorophyll, which gives leaves their basic green color. It is necessary for photosynthesis, the chemical reaction that enables plants to use sunlight to manufacture sugars for their food. Trees in the temperate zones store these sugars for their winter dormant period.

Carotenoids, which produce yellow, orange, and brown colors in such things as corn, carrots, and daffodils, as well as rutabagas, buttercups, and bananas.

Anthocyanins, which give color to such familiar things as cranberries, red apples, concord grapes, blueberries, cherries, strawberries, and plums. They are water soluble and appear in the watery liquid of leaf cells.


Both chlorophyll and carotenoids are present in the chloroplasts of leaf cells throughout the growing season. Most anthocyanins are produced in the autumn, in response to bright light and excess plant sugars within leaf cells.

During the growing season, chlorophyll is continually being produced and broken down and leaves appear green. As night length increases in the autumn, chlorophyll production slows down and then stops and eventually all the chlorophyll is destroyed. The carotenoids and anthocyanins that are present in the leaf are then unmasked and show their colors.

Certain colors are characteristic of particular species. Oaks turn red, brown, or russet; hickories, golden bronze; aspen and yellow-poplar, golden yellow; dogwood, purplish red; beech, light tan; and sourwood and black tupelo, crimson. Maples differ species by species-red maple turns brilliant scarlet; sugar maple, orange-red; and black maple, glowing yellow. Striped maple becomes almost colorless. Leaves of some species such as the elms simply shrivel up and fall, exhibiting little color other than drab brown.

The timing of the color change also varies by species. Sourwood in southern forests can become vividly colorful in late summer while all other species are still vigorously green. Oaks put on their colors long after other species have already shed their leaves. These differences in timing among species seem to be genetically inherited, for a particular species at the same latitude will show the same coloration in the cool temperatures of high mountain elevations at about the same time as it does in warmer lowlands.

How does weather affect autumn color?

The amount and brilliance of the colors that develop in any particular autumn season are related to weather conditions that occur before and during the time the chlorophyll in the leaves is dwindling. Temperature and moisture are the main influences.

A succession of warm, sunny days and cool, crisp but not freezing nights seems to bring about the most spectacular color displays. During these days, lots of sugars are produced in the leaf but the cool nights and the gradual closing of veins going into the leaf prevent these sugars from moving out. These conditions-lots of sugar and lots of light-spur production of the brilliant anthocyanin pigments, which tint reds, purples, and crimson. Because carotenoids are always present in leaves, the yellow and gold colors remain fairly constant from year to year.

The amount of moisture in the soil also affects autumn colors. Like the weather, soil moisture varies greatly from year to year. The countless combinations of these two highly variable factors assure that no two autumns can be exactly alike. A late spring, or a severe summer drought, can delay the onset of fall color by a few weeks. A warm period during fall will also lower the intensity of autumn colors. A warm wet spring, favorable summer weather, and warm sunny fall days with cool nights should produce the most brilliant autumn colors.

What triggers leaf fall?

In early autumn, in response to the shortening days and declining intensity of sunlight, leaves begin the processes leading up to their fall. The veins that carry fluids into and out of the leaf gradually close off as a layer of cells forms at the base of each leaf. These clogged veins trap sugars in the leaf and promote production of anthocyanins. Once this separation layer is complete and the connecting tissues are sealed off, the leaf is ready to fall.


http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/mi...ves/leaves.htm
Click to expand...
 
BigBudBill

BigBudBill

Active member
Lights are on from 10p to 10a to keep temps down during day. Cant A/c in there, no exhaust port. If I ran lights during the day I could get below 70, but day temps would be at ~ 85 or so. Too hot you think or should I try? I have heard this family is a bit prone to stressing. I broke a branch on one and the other 2 stems stretched. I am worried high temps might cause naners. Chucked some Sweet Tooth X Sour Bubble pollen on a branch, hope to get a nice cross!
 
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BigBudBill

BigBudBill

Active member
So I seemed to have got the canopy pretty much even except for 1 or 2 that stretched a little(broken/damaged branch while supercropping for even canopy). I trimmed all small and lower branches and associated leaves at ~ day 28. Now I am getting shading over bud sites. Normally I would start clearing fan leaves but I am thinking this may have reduced my yield previously or slowed ripening. I was thinking at day 50 I would remove some fan leaves shading buds. I am shooting for 9-10 weeks so I think I will stop feeding after week 7.

Comments, thoughts suggestions?
 
Mudita

Mudita

Member
very nice. i will tuck the fan leaves down futhur into my canopy if I think they shade too much. then they r still there, and get some light, but make much less shade.
 
BigBudBill

BigBudBill

Active member
Not the best environment, so it's temporary. Have much BIGGER things planned in the very very near future. I have some Vortex seedlings I am getting ready to sex out. Hope to be running lots of that + more soon.
 
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