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Benefits of Vertical Growing

redclover

Member
Well for some odd non common sense reason, the cropped tops grew upwards instead of toward side of bulb?! Pointing up towards top dead zone....hmmmm. Can some one explain this pleeze!
 

redclover

Member
The supercropping seems too stressful in my limited trials. I think a slight LST bend towards bulb would be best for people who don't want to SCROG. No matter what I try the calyx always grow straight up...but the fans adjust to catch the light (so maybe don't train at all?!) My un scrog'd plants look like peacocks from back fans stretching up to catch light.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
Anyone running vert think SCROG is the way to go?

Depends on what you need to fit your grow.

Vert scrogg is good for growers short on grow area with a low plant count. It takes more work than just letting the plant take the shape it will like in a tree grow. If you are short on grow area then scrogg is the way to grow if you have the diligents to keep up with it. I pull 3-4 pounds out of a 35 square foot room with mixed strains of high and low yielders. This 35 square feoot also allows me room to work in as well. It is tight as hell but it can be done.

That said if I had the room I would do something like a tree grow. This style would keep my plant count down and still give a great yield while reducing my time used to train my plant.
 

redclover

Member
Thanks for reply crane. I have a 5x5x7 tent and am also experiencing the limited movement. I don't want to have a smaller count as I have many strains to run. I'm thinking about a SOG circle, maybe a second deck (with light mover), and 12/12 from start...this sound like a good direction? Thanks in advance.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
If anyone is dealing with a narrow space, use the wall as a trellis, ala Marlo in the WOW thread. This method rocks. I was dealing with a 5X9 foot space, but 10 foot ceilings, so I went with sativas that like to grow tall: Super Lemon Haze, and Critical Jack. You cover all walls with reflectix and then over that, put that orange construction netting that you can get @ Home Depot/Lowes. This becomes the trellis. Had 22 plants in the room, 20 of which were Critical Jack, all against the walls. Hempy buckets were pushed right up against the walls. Two SLH on the floor in the middle, with two columns of stacked verticals on either side of them. As the branches from the plants against the wall grew outwards towards the light, they were pulled back and tied to the wall trellis. Walls were completely covered with buds, yet leaving plenty of space for the two plants on the floor to get flooded with light. By FAR the biggest yield I ever pulled. Smallest plant was 8 ounces. The 2 SLH on the floor were huge, & just like Xmas trees. One was a one pounder, and the other was 13 zips. This is with a two month veg on the CJs, and a bit longer (lost track, but were 9-10 weeks) for the SLH. All plants were 8 feet tall. Thick buds, top to bottom, because of the stacks. Stems like broomsticks. I recommend using your wall space for anyone dealing with limited spaces.
This picture was while the room was still under construction. All netting wasn't up yet, and the lower bulbs were not hung yet, but you can get the idea:

picture.php


These are the two SLH right at the flip. Had to be transplanted from 2 to 5 gallon Hempys because they kept tipping over. The CJs remained in 2 gallon Hempys. All plants were watered/fed daily to runoff, by hand. These are the two SLH right @ flip, just after transplanting from 2 to 5 gallon buckets:

picture.php


Didn't plan on growing them this long, but broad mites in veg delayed the flip. Your walls are space. Don't waste them. :tiphat:
 

mojave green

rockin in the free world
Veteran
mojave green's circle of light

mojave green's circle of light

built a circular cage out of same fencing material i used to circle the bulbs, and attached reflective material to it for the walls. turned a SQUARE 49 sq ft room into a 20 sq ft circular grow area. it is 5' in diameter, bout 20 sq feet. i can now light that 20 sq ft with 2 600w hps giving me bout 60w/sq ft. hope to see good yield. we shall see.
picture.php
 

redclover

Member
Here's a Bodhi Blood Orange I let grow naturally. 16" from a bare vert 860wCMH....12/12 from seed.
 

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RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
built a circular cage out of same fencing material i used to circle the bulbs, and attached reflective material to it for the walls. turned a SQUARE 49 sq ft room into a 20 sq ft circular grow area. it is 5' in diameter, bout 20 sq feet. i can now light that 20 sq ft with 2 600w hps giving me bout 60w/sq ft. hope to see good yield. we shall see.
View Image

That'll work. You do need a circular fan on the floor though. That size room would also work with the technique I posted above, which was 45 square feet (9X5), but you would need two vertical stacks. Vertical stacks are great for sativas, if you have high ceilings.
 

Storm Shadow

Well-known member
Veteran
Try to not to take advice from a closet grower who thinks critical mass is top shelf....

2lbs critical mass trees so cal market value + RetroGrow Skillz = $3.19
 
D

DHF

Try to not to take advice from a closet grower who thinks critical mass is top shelf....

2lbs critical mass trees so cal market value + RetroGrow Skillz = $3.19
LMAO....:laughing:.....

Mojave....You do need a small muffin fan underneath the lights on it`s lowest speed to gently assist natural heat convection and get bulb heat up and out of the grow area , as well as constant airflow around the plants but never ON em so they won`t transpire as much and fuck with nutrient uptake...now....

How will you access the plants , and why the cage around the bulbs , instead of behind the plants to pin em back and keep em from growing into the lights.....

I understand you want to not get burnt by the bulbs , and that works , but it still causes shadows and dark spots all around the room and on the plants , have seen it many times in the past , but....

It might be a trade off for no burnt skin for you....dunno....I got burnt back in the day for the last time and started working my plants lights off with green eye tasklights , and they make LED green headlamps nowadays for even more ease of lights off tending in close quartered vert setups with bare bulbs....anyways....

Start a thread , I`d love to see how this setup hoons and produces.....

Peace....DHF.....:ying:....
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Try to not to take advice from a closet grower who thinks critical mass is top shelf....

2lbs critical mass trees so cal market value + RetroGrow Skillz = $3.19

StormBoy=the anti=zionist, anti=semitic, radical Muslim troll. Just a hater with a big mouth and a small brain.
Here's your link from the conspiracy thread:
http://www.answering-christianity.com/911_is_the_biggest_lie.htm
Only a complete racist/ignoramus could believe in that crap.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=279575&page=13
Post #190
They should have banned your sorry ass for that.
 

mojave green

rockin in the free world
Veteran
Mojave....You do need a small muffin fan underneath the lights on it`s lowest speed to gently assist natural heat convection and get bulb heat up and out of the grow area , as well as constant airflow around the plants but never ON em so they won`t transpire as much and fuck with nutrient uptake...now....
yes sir. will be in place before plants.

How will you access the plants
the outer cage i can open up and enter in a circular fashion. been placing rinsed clay pebbles in the pots this way. i can access all plants from inside or in a limited fashion by reaching over from the outside. i been all over this shit!
:biggrin:
and why the cage around the bulbs , instead of behind the plants to pin em back and keep em from growing into the lights
cuz i'm REAL lazy. and i don't like to train, trim or otherwise molest/stress my plants. they scream when i do.

I understand you want to not get burnt by the bulbs , and that works , but it still causes shadows and dark spots all around the room and on the plants , have seen it many times in the past
It might be a trade off for no burnt skin for you....dunno....I got burnt back in the day for the last time and started working my plants lights off with green eye tasklights , and they make LED green headlamps nowadays for even more ease of lights off tending in close quartered vert setups with bare bulbs
yup, lost a giants jersey that way!:laughing:

Start a thread , I`d love to see how this setup hoons and produces
got one going. and if i quit fooking up my plants i might get some yeild!
:laughing:
peace & love
:tiphat:
mg
 
D

DHF

Link the thread MG , so I can come visit and show support....

Peace....DHF....:ying:....
 

redclover

Member
Take a gander at the first post to find a lumen chart based on Bulb wattage and distance from bulb.

BeL

Yeah I seen the lumen chart...good stuff. I wondering about PAR too. My CMH is only 85000 lumens, but very high PAR and CRI. I'm about a foot away, but I might have bleached everything. I'll post some pix tomorrow.
 

redclover

Member
After two quick 12/12 from seed bare vert runs...this is what I've gathered...
1) Since the bulb is distributing light in 360 degrees, bulbs must be close as to not lose intensity.
2) Dead zones are a bitch. Light movers are a must...opinions?
3) Vert is best utilized with tall plants or a second 'row'
Which leads to my question. What is the easiest way to add another layer in a 7' tent? Should I SOG to keep em short for two decks? Any simple build designs?
 

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