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I am as curious as you are as I plan a trip to Belize in a few months as well (Guatemala too), and I definitely want to know how is the smoke scene there... Thanks everyone in advance for all your info
when i was in belize, we got offered as soon as we got off the water taxi on kaye caulker. very chill, weed seedy but ok, this tiny island is absolutely a killer place to get some relaxing in. mangroves at the margins, tiny eateries and bars, i didn't spend a lot on the little hotels either, they were simple and clean. maybe it's not real life, but i have no problem dropping into a scene where nobody is frowning or freaking out...
then there is the diving, crystal blue lagoon (don't fry yourself, it's really easy when you are eye-glued to the world, nicely cooled by the passing water...sizzle, yeah, i did it) for snorkeling, and the diving just goes outward from there. don't miss the 'great blue hole', it's mad weaving in among the stalagtites in that dark deep water... word is there is a tame hammerhead there too, didn't see it. there is a spotted eagle ray in the inner lagoon that will eat from your hand. (one of the neatest animals i've ever seen, like a miniature manta with a back that looks like it was printed in batik.)
i didn't see much of the interior, belize city was really urban, but nobody gave me a hard time, quite the opposite.
belize is like a cool secret that nobody cares about, i thought it was absolutely tits.
Belize is way cool. Like Rchicken said, Caye Caulker is the backpackers destination and Ambergris isn't too much more developed but still way more touristy. The best way to see Belize City is in your rear view mirror as you are getting the hell out of there, though its the transport hub so you pretty much have to go through there at some point.
Definitely take a trip to see the Mayan ruins and the best is right over the border in Guatemala and worth a 2 day trip though you can do it in a day.
Smoke? Belize is notorious for crap weed. It'll get you high but don't expect anything fancy. I hooked up with some old time expats thinking maybe they had better than you found at the beach but it was basically the same, just better prices, around u.s. $30. for an oz.
Theres a couple of Belize forums with really good info but don't mention smoke as all you'll get after that is a cold shoulder from them.