Backyard compost makers unite!!

[Sammet]

Hi guys, nice to see everyone here!

Sammet, ashes are a good addition to a compost pile, because they provide minerals and are alkaline, they are useful to counter the natural acidity of composting activity (some people add dolomite lime instead of ashes, it works as well and supplies mainly Ca and Mg, whereas ashes will contain more K, P and a bit of Ca + micros if I remember correctly - adding both dolomite and ashes would provide a more balanced compost in terms of nutrients).

However they should be added wisely, as their excessive application can make the pH of your compost too alkaline. I'd suggest using around 5% of your total starting composting volume, I've seen recipes which call for more but I find it easier to add more if needed than trying to add more composting material because of excess alkalinity due to ashes.

Best of luck keep it green folks!

You mention the lime and ashes. Would I be able to mix a small amount, say 5% ashes into my existing grow soil as an alternative to dolomite lime? or would it be too hot for the plants. Just a thought as a soil improver for my grow I've just started (my compost is only 4-5 months old so can't use it yet).

 

[Guest]

well as i understand this, it's not the same if you put 5% ashes directly in grow soil. the process of composting is very important here.
that's my logic. i am not talking from experiences.

 

[Sammet]

Gotcha. I'll refrain from adding the ash to my grow soil. Cheers!

 

[Relik]

You mention the lime and ashes. Would I be able to mix a small amount, say 5% ashes into my existing grow soil as an alternative to dolomite lime? or would it be too hot for the plants. Just a thought as a soil improver for my grow I've just started (my compost is only 4-5 months old so can't use it yet).

well as i understand this, it's not the same if you put 5% ashes directly in grow soil. the process of composting is very important here.

I would refrain from adding ashes to an already running soil mix, if possible I would add them when mixing new soil.
Depending on your soil mix the rule of thumb is around 1-2 tablespoons dolomite lime per gallon of mix, I used to replace dolomite with ashes just in the same amounts, but lately I've been using 50/50 ashes/dolomite and kinda like the results better.
As peaceful_mind said, 5% is a lot to add to a soil mix, as an example 1tbsp/gallon represents around 0.4% of the total volume, there is a great difference! Composting can handle more important amounts because the digestion of organic matter by the microherd uses part of the alkaline material provided to sustain the chemical reactions that take place during the process. Without alkaline material, decomposition still occurs, but at a slower rate.

 

[Guest]

Relik, do you have any tips or suggestions for me.
take a look about my situation please.
tnx in advance!

 

[Relik]

i got this plastic pail/bin. about 4feet in diameter and 6 feet high.
it doesn't have any lid. i was thinking about a plastic sheet with some holes for air.
better without the lid? it's cold and snowy here in winter...
i'll make some holes in the bottom and in the side of a bin. do i need them, if i'm gonna turn the pile regularly?

Hi there, sorry for the delay! This sounds like a good container for composting, the dimensions seem good. You say you get snow during the winter, I must say that I've never dealt with composting in the snow (I live on a hot island ), but in my opinion if you manage to fill that container with your composting material, the compost will generate enough heat to resist outside temperatures (it does get hot when it starts to compost, chances are you'll see steam rising from your compost bin on cold mornings). I would think that the more material your bin contains, the more it would be able to insulate itself from outside cold temperatures.

On top of that I would add the lid/cover, with a few holes as you said to allow air exchange, while still keeping the generated heat inside the bin (similar to a greenhouse effect). I would make the lateral/bottom holes wide enough to be able to insert some kind of stick/branch in order to aerate and mix the materials inside. One thing I like about having holes on the bottom of the container is that it allows worms to get inside and help the process, provided your bin stands directly on the ground. But I don't know about worms activity during a snowy winter!

As I said already I have never faced the challenge of composting outdoors in a cold winter, these suggestions are meant to help/guide you but if you find out something that works better than what I recommended, don't hesitate to keep it going, experimenting is an excellent way to learn!

Oh, and keep us posted! Best of luck buddy

 

[Bract Doctor]

Ive been composting for 6 years now, and find that running 3 or 4 piles gives you a definite advantage. The first of my piles gets all the leftover soil mixes from container grows, some cow and sheep manure, leaves, and larger branches, twigs etc. This pile is 6 feet square approx. This is a cold running pile that I only turn when I am inoculating a new hot pile, or layering my "scrap" pile. The "scrap pile " has layers of greens and browns, mostly from lawns throughout the city I live in along with all the fish carcasses, small game carcasses and bones, and vacuum cleaner bag type trash. I layer this pile with broken down mix from the first pile, and really don't turn this pile, just remove sections to add to the third pile, my "hot" pile. This one has all the restaurant waste I can get my hands on, leaves, grass, hay, and layers of the other two piles. I turn this pile weekly, and add the unbroken down outer edges to the second "hot pile " next to it, always turning both alternately. I don't clean my eggshells, I add meat and bones, and save my pee in buckets to add weekly.
Don't ever add tobacco products as tobacco mosaiac desease can and will result, I know from bad experience.
Ive never had a problem with coons or other animals in my piles, I don't add the carcasses to the top, always putting them down a bit. Since I started using compost, all my plants, veggies, fruit trees have shown phenominal growth, tighter internodes, better flavor and aromas, higher yields, and faster maturity. They are also more resistant to pests, drought, and have stronger stems to support the added fruit/veg growth that results.

One added benefit from eggshells in the amounts I use, 60 to 90 dozen a week heheheh is they work very similar to diatomaceous earth when present in your mixes.

Most of my friends think I am crazy for spending so much time on the piles, but they never complain, and always have their hands out when it's harvest time - any harvest time.

Ya'll stay safe n green. BD

 

[Guest]

Bract Doctor, great infos!!!
well just to let you know guys that i am in action.
i have one small and one big wermicompost, and one homemade compost bin without base, and with holes around it. it has a lid too.
it's starting to heat up now, even though it's freezing...
materials are kitchen waste(scraps, coffe ground, egg shells etc.), hair, cow manure, i put in the bin also some worms to do their job.
some diluted urine with water. i think that's it.
o yes, and leaves of course....

cheers!

 

[Ganico]

I'm gonna try to compost a leaf pile this winter since I procrastinated starting a compost pile this spring/summer.

I'm hoping it'll start off alright with just the dried yard leaves and a N source. Looks like it's gonna be real cold this winter, down to the 20's (Fº) though

 

[Guest]

do you have any idea what will you use for N source?

 

[Mt Toaker]

Is it safe to say that if you have your yard treated chemically the composting material wouldn't be completely organic? I know some people have companies come in and take care of their lawns with chemicals. What kind of affects would this have in the resulting compost?

 

[jaykush]

http://www.ibiblio.org/rge/course/compost.htm

 

[jaykush]

http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/homecompost/methods.html

 

[Guest]

Great thread!!!

 

[gregor_mendel]

I am allowed here? (non-organic grower)

I am allowed here? (non-organic grower)

Hello everyone.

I grow hydroponically, but I have been composting for about six years.
Many people have rules they follow about compost.
Please let me say - they all work. Some are more suitable than others for some people.

I follow the one year build up, one year breakdown advocated in "The Humanure Handbook."

Just an introduction to me. This thread looks like a cool place to hang out.

 

[bongasaurus]

whats your guys' take on peeing on the compost pile?

 

[islandgrow]

I have peed on my compost pile, I didn't notice a difference you could dilute it in many gallons of water and then just apply as you would normally water.

 

[Suby]

Urine is fine as long as your healthy and don't live off pills and junk food all year, high in salt though so drin ALOT of water before, you want near clear piss not the orange Tang type pis

S

 

[Tactical Farmer]

I pee on my pile - GNC vitamin super piss.

 

[Clackamas Coot]

Composting Used Soil Mixes

Composting Used Soil Mixes

On an organic gardening board the subject of composting potting soils came up and specifically the topic of soils containing either perlite or pumice.

It seems that while both of these agents provide good aeration for soil mixes, it is also true that they have very little ability, if any, to hold water or water-based nutrients. That's not necessarily a plus or a minus - it's just something that needs to be factored in when they're used.

When the hit the compost pile they really shine when they are put back into a soil mix or perhaps spread out in the garden outside. The grooves, pits, pockets provide a good breeding medium for microbes.

One of the links provided by one poster was a university-level study of soil mixes using virgin perlite and pumice vs. mixes with perlite & pumice which had been through the compost pile or worm bin.

All of the plants were watered with plain water. What was of interest to the researchers was the level and diversity of microbes in the various mixes. The soil mixes which included composted aeration aggregates had substantially higher levels of microbes.

I used to wonder about these ingredients when used in raised bed gardens but it appears that they're beneficial in ways other than aeration.

CC