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Guest
got a buddy thinkin about it i told him he'd be better off with the ebb & flood. he said he'll just put it on a timer and use rockwool cubes and it would be the same....
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Guest
http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/11plan01.htm
here's the site he got it from. if you click on the picture it tells you how to build tell me your thoughts guys n gals.....
all and by the way i c mag kiss ass forget the other forums....
here's the site he got it from. if you click on the picture it tells you how to build tell me your thoughts guys n gals.....
all and by the way i c mag kiss ass forget the other forums....
G
Guest
and what type of timer would i use one this...... i want it to work kinda like the ebb & flood.
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Guest
G
Guest
should work.
Any Timer that has 15 minute intervals would work.
Odd looking thing, but should work.
Sin
Any Timer that has 15 minute intervals would work.
Odd looking thing, but should work.
Sin
I was going to build a few of these a while back, I ended up switching my design but I am planning to build a slightly larger 144 plant site model of that one above. if you wanted to make it an ebb and flood get a cheap intermatic and modify it into a cycle timer, or pay big bucks for a cycle timer... if you really want to know ill post the tek for it...I would still include the overflow setup that the design has built in, so that your timer doesnt run too long and make the water overflow, causing a huge mess.
G
Guest
thanks sin and hogwild... this is my 1st go at hydro so any info would be great. i feel a bit better now someone else knows it everybody else ive talk to hasnt seen it. if you could post to intermatic please.
Thanks to Hippie3 and Mycotopia.net for all the wonderful knowledge they have lodged in my brain.
Heres your timer stuff:
by: MysterMe
This tek is for modifying your timer to run around 16 times faster than normally, so you can use short time intervals very often.
This idea came to me upon installing a new ultrasonic humidifier in my small (10 gal) grow chamber, because the shortest "on" time I could get was 30 mins, and that was a bit too much.
This mod involves a bit of work (about 30mins), and it has only been tested on the type of timer shown on the pic (Intermatic). These are fairly common.
Here goes:
You will need the following items:
-A T10 torx screwdriver
-small flathead screwdriver
-inside of a ball-point pen
-x-acto knife or similar tool
-WD40 or some grease (optional)
First remove the torx screw from the bottom of the unit. Its screwed in pretty tight.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer02.jpg Views: 55 Size: 87.8 KB ID: 25477
Remove the time indicator arrow thingy from the dial of the unit.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer03.jpg Views: 52 Size: 86.5 KB ID: 25478
Remove the dial from the top, and unscrew the second torx from under the dial.
Be careful with the small white gear because it slips off easily.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer04.jpg Views: 49 Size: 90.2 KB ID: 25479
Here, use the small flathead screwdriver to carefully pry apart the bottom of the coil housing and the area where the gears are. Proceed to pry it from all four corners of the housing. This way it comes off easily. If the middle plate gets a little bent, it is no problem, just remember to bend is back to normal before reassembling the timer.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer05.jpg Views: 59 Size: 75.2 KB ID: 25480
Remove the two smaller gears that can be freely removed from the top.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer06.jpg Views: 52 Size: 84.4 KB ID: 25481
Now proceed to remove all the gears from the right axle. The bottom two gears on the right axle will be a bit hard to remove, because the metal brace for the large to gear (not on pic) overlaps them. Apply light pressure with the screwdriver and they will easily pop out.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer07.jpg Views: 54 Size: 90.9 KB ID: 25482
From the pen insert, cut many 0.5-3mm (really you only need 2 2.5mm and 2 0.7mm long ones) spacers that we will be used to keep the fewer gears aligned.
You now have three identical small gears, one large one with the left axle mounted on it, one large on without an axle, and one small one that is nearly identical to the 3 small ones, except it has a small shaft extension on it.
Place the large gear with the axle back to the hole on the left.
Place a 2.5mm spacer on the (empty) right axle.
Place a 2.5mm spacer on the left axle (on top of the large gear).
Put the remaining large gear on the right. (pic)
Small gear on the [/b]left.
Small gear on the right.
And finally a 0.7 mm spacer on the end of both axles.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer08.jpg Views: 53 Size: 79.2 KB ID: 25483
Check to see if the top spacers are flush (little clearance is OK) with the middle plate. If yes, replace middle plate and check to see if all gears rotate freely. If not , then you should start to reduce the length of the top spacers first.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer09.jpg Views: 54 Size: 63.6 KB ID: 25484
After replacing the middle plate, return the remaining two main gears to the top.
It is very important, that the very large gear is replaced so that the metal tab (that is mounted on the gear itself and designed to rotate freely) should be in the same place as on the pic, otherwise the motor will rotate in the wrong direction.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer10.jpg Views: 55 Size: 74.0 KB ID: 25485
After this lubricate the gears liberally and reassemble everything.
You now have a timer that rotates fully every 90 minutes!
Using the smallest event interval, this mean you can set times as small as 3 mins with 1.5min increments.
Heres your timer stuff:
by: MysterMe
This tek is for modifying your timer to run around 16 times faster than normally, so you can use short time intervals very often.
This idea came to me upon installing a new ultrasonic humidifier in my small (10 gal) grow chamber, because the shortest "on" time I could get was 30 mins, and that was a bit too much.
This mod involves a bit of work (about 30mins), and it has only been tested on the type of timer shown on the pic (Intermatic). These are fairly common.
Here goes:
You will need the following items:
-A T10 torx screwdriver
-small flathead screwdriver
-inside of a ball-point pen
-x-acto knife or similar tool
-WD40 or some grease (optional)
First remove the torx screw from the bottom of the unit. Its screwed in pretty tight.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer02.jpg Views: 55 Size: 87.8 KB ID: 25477
Remove the time indicator arrow thingy from the dial of the unit.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer03.jpg Views: 52 Size: 86.5 KB ID: 25478
Remove the dial from the top, and unscrew the second torx from under the dial.
Be careful with the small white gear because it slips off easily.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer04.jpg Views: 49 Size: 90.2 KB ID: 25479
Here, use the small flathead screwdriver to carefully pry apart the bottom of the coil housing and the area where the gears are. Proceed to pry it from all four corners of the housing. This way it comes off easily. If the middle plate gets a little bent, it is no problem, just remember to bend is back to normal before reassembling the timer.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer05.jpg Views: 59 Size: 75.2 KB ID: 25480
Remove the two smaller gears that can be freely removed from the top.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer06.jpg Views: 52 Size: 84.4 KB ID: 25481
Now proceed to remove all the gears from the right axle. The bottom two gears on the right axle will be a bit hard to remove, because the metal brace for the large to gear (not on pic) overlaps them. Apply light pressure with the screwdriver and they will easily pop out.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer07.jpg Views: 54 Size: 90.9 KB ID: 25482
From the pen insert, cut many 0.5-3mm (really you only need 2 2.5mm and 2 0.7mm long ones) spacers that we will be used to keep the fewer gears aligned.
You now have three identical small gears, one large one with the left axle mounted on it, one large on without an axle, and one small one that is nearly identical to the 3 small ones, except it has a small shaft extension on it.
Place the large gear with the axle back to the hole on the left.
Place a 2.5mm spacer on the (empty) right axle.
Place a 2.5mm spacer on the left axle (on top of the large gear).
Put the remaining large gear on the right. (pic)
Small gear on the [/b]left.
Small gear on the right.
And finally a 0.7 mm spacer on the end of both axles.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer08.jpg Views: 53 Size: 79.2 KB ID: 25483
Check to see if the top spacers are flush (little clearance is OK) with the middle plate. If yes, replace middle plate and check to see if all gears rotate freely. If not , then you should start to reduce the length of the top spacers first.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer09.jpg Views: 54 Size: 63.6 KB ID: 25484
After replacing the middle plate, return the remaining two main gears to the top.
It is very important, that the very large gear is replaced so that the metal tab (that is mounted on the gear itself and designed to rotate freely) should be in the same place as on the pic, otherwise the motor will rotate in the wrong direction.
Click image for larger version Name: Timer10.jpg Views: 55 Size: 74.0 KB ID: 25485
After this lubricate the gears liberally and reassemble everything.
You now have a timer that rotates fully every 90 minutes!
Using the smallest event interval, this mean you can set times as small as 3 mins with 1.5min increments.
I was going to edit in the pics but mycotopia doesnt allow outside linking to their images... sneaky bastards... well anyways if you want you can just become a member of their site to get the pictures up, i dont want to piss anyone there off otherwise id copy the whole thing. The basic concept is your taking out all the gears from the drive of the timer and adding them all back in except one, and you use the pen insert as spacers for the gears since there arent as many as when you started... It takes a little work to get it at first, but after you get it, you can make as many cheap cycle timers as you want.
G
Guest
hey i've had a few people tell me i might have root problems with this. ive never done hydro but have done dirt and only have transplanted in to 1 gallon buckets and done fine. so what would be the difference in 1 gallon buckets and 2 liter pop bottles. its about the same size.... im no expert and need info.
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Guest
kinda would like to build this cause it would fit perfect in my closet. plus with the over flow no floods..... im hoping this will work.
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Guest
i was planning on putting screen in the bottom so it doesnt clog the flow and use lava rock to support the root structure....
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Guest
I have a friend running that system - root spread is the problem...they just don't have enough room to spread out, which is a problem (unless you're growing bonsai). The other problem is watching for leaks!
I made my own flood/drain tables with the black concrete mixing tubs from Home Depot (every growers favorite store) - all you really need from the hydro strore are the fill and drains. Here's a link to a do it yourself on what I went with - simple, and effective.
https://secure.eu-server.net/~wwwtoke/forums/showthread.php4?t=2459
I'm running 10 of them - 5 in flower, 4 for veg and one holding my moms.
Oh, and my friend running the system you're looking at, is switching to my system (as soon as the hydro store gets more fill and drains...I cleaned them out).
I made my own flood/drain tables with the black concrete mixing tubs from Home Depot (every growers favorite store) - all you really need from the hydro strore are the fill and drains. Here's a link to a do it yourself on what I went with - simple, and effective.
https://secure.eu-server.net/~wwwtoke/forums/showthread.php4?t=2459
I'm running 10 of them - 5 in flower, 4 for veg and one holding my moms.
Oh, and my friend running the system you're looking at, is switching to my system (as soon as the hydro store gets more fill and drains...I cleaned them out).
G
Guest
chickskillz thank you
chickskillz thank you
so what you think about hooking up to kiddie pools the hard plastic type for ebb and flow that was my other brilliant idea....... think it will work as long as i plaint the bottom in marine black for water leak any ways....... please help any suggestion will help
chickskillz thank you
so what you think about hooking up to kiddie pools the hard plastic type for ebb and flow that was my other brilliant idea....... think it will work as long as i plaint the bottom in marine black for water leak any ways....... please help any suggestion will help
G
Guest
I guess a kiddie pool or any waterproof, shallow container would work. The tubs from homedepot are cool because they are small enough to manage individually, they are already black, and the lips around the edge on them made it really easy to build a 2X4 frame work above the res that they just kinda drop into. Plus they are only $5.00 each.
I just gotta recommend again against going with the system you were originally thinking about - I know from a friends experience, you won't be happy for long with it.
Good luck!!
C.
I just gotta recommend again against going with the system you were originally thinking about - I know from a friends experience, you won't be happy for long with it.
Good luck!!
C.
thescissors
Member
i built one of those, using drip instead of ebb/flood. leaks are a problem and so is lack of flexibility. also, it eats up a lot of vertical space, and the roots try to grow down the drain tubes and water sits in there and they will in fact rot unless you are careful...
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G
Guest
thanks for the info "thescissors"
