crunkinshoe
Member
If I use an airstone and pump to get aerobic bacteria in my tea do I need a beneficial bacteria nute like Advanced Nutrients Tarantula? Are there types of bacteria in something like this that I can't get with an bubbled tea?
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AN tarantula
- Thread starter crunkinshoe
- Start date
G
Guest
I just bought a batch, because it contains such a wide variety of concentrated spores. It's expensive, but I spent the extra cash because I think that it will be much more effective than teas alone. We shall soon see.
Any quality aged compost like EWC and vegetable compost had a wide enough variety of beneficial bacteria, the trick is to make a tea with the right ingredients to cultivate and multiply this sampling of bacteria.
The aeration doesn't create the soil elements it just provides the right environment for multiplying when used with a few TBS of EWC, some liquid seaweed, some blackstrap molasses and sometimes I add rice meal to encourga a straonger fungal population.
I haven't tried the AN but I am not a great lover of bottled nutes, i like to use readily availble ingredients that i mix and cocktail myself, it's like the saying goes: teach a man to fish..."
Sub
The aeration doesn't create the soil elements it just provides the right environment for multiplying when used with a few TBS of EWC, some liquid seaweed, some blackstrap molasses and sometimes I add rice meal to encourga a straonger fungal population.
I haven't tried the AN but I am not a great lover of bottled nutes, i like to use readily availble ingredients that i mix and cocktail myself, it's like the saying goes: teach a man to fish..."
Sub
N
Neptune
The stuff available in AN sauces is easy made in your garden compost.
yeast, poop(chicken, worm, bat, seabird), alfalfa, molasses
bubble this together, and never fully empty the bucket. this will keep your bacteria cultures alive.. keep topping it up with water and fresh ingredients... the important point is to keep a 1-2 inch layer of 'bubbled organic mess' in the bottom of your bucket... add a handful of organic potting soil with added mycorhizo spores, this will multiply those spores.
yeast, poop(chicken, worm, bat, seabird), alfalfa, molasses
bubble this together, and never fully empty the bucket. this will keep your bacteria cultures alive.. keep topping it up with water and fresh ingredients... the important point is to keep a 1-2 inch layer of 'bubbled organic mess' in the bottom of your bucket... add a handful of organic potting soil with added mycorhizo spores, this will multiply those spores.
crunkinshoe
Member
I was just bubbling up what was needed, thanks for the tip!Neptune said:
Hello all,
Suby, I have been adding my liquid kelp after bubbling just before I feed. I find that if I bubble with the liquid kelp in it the pH skyrockets to over 8.5.
So I just bubble the EWC/guano/ molasses and the pH is above 7 most times but below 8.
I pH adjust with apple cider vinegar to low 6's and fed.
My plants love it.
I was thinking of getting rid of my alaska fish shit and ej bloom all together.
I use a high P guano (3-10-1) for flowering.
I was thinking on using this guano (since I have alot) and blood meal (which I already have but have not opened) for a veg tea-something like
1 tbsn ewc/gallon for the little N and the microkiddies and all the goodness
1 tbsn Guano/gallon (3-10-1)
1 tbsn bloodmeal/gallon for the N
1 tbsn molasses/gallon
bubble for 24-48 hours, add the kelp and fed.
The blood meal is immediately available I understand so it should go into solution well.
Suby do you think that will be too hot?
minds_I
Suby, I have been adding my liquid kelp after bubbling just before I feed. I find that if I bubble with the liquid kelp in it the pH skyrockets to over 8.5.
So I just bubble the EWC/guano/ molasses and the pH is above 7 most times but below 8.
I pH adjust with apple cider vinegar to low 6's and fed.
My plants love it.
I was thinking of getting rid of my alaska fish shit and ej bloom all together.
I use a high P guano (3-10-1) for flowering.
I was thinking on using this guano (since I have alot) and blood meal (which I already have but have not opened) for a veg tea-something like
1 tbsn ewc/gallon for the little N and the microkiddies and all the goodness
1 tbsn Guano/gallon (3-10-1)
1 tbsn bloodmeal/gallon for the N
1 tbsn molasses/gallon
bubble for 24-48 hours, add the kelp and fed.
The blood meal is immediately available I understand so it should go into solution well.
Suby do you think that will be too hot?
minds_I
crunkinshoe
Member
Im thinking of this for a veg tea:
Per gallon of water
1 tbsp ewc
1 tbsp molasses
1 tbsp mexican bat guano
1 tbsp fish fert
maxicrop kelp
superthrive
vinegar to correct ph
Per gallon of water
1 tbsp ewc
1 tbsp molasses
1 tbsp mexican bat guano
1 tbsp fish fert
maxicrop kelp
superthrive
vinegar to correct ph
Wow, I broke into the bubblehash yesterday....I think I had too much fun lol.
I like that recipe except for the guano, for a veg tea it's too much P unless it's a transition tea for flowering.
Cider vinegar is a great soil orgnic ph down, i use it often to add a little P and organic acids to the soil.
You know my stance on ph and I respect your need to ph adjust, this being said how is adding the liquid seaweed after the bubbling going to affect the tea ph any less than adding it before (when it can feed the microbes and boost the tea and start breaking down).....
If you add the liquid seaweed after the ph shift wil occur in the soil as opposed to in the tea, both ways the dolomite lime will take care of it and the peat will acidify the rest.
Suby
I like that recipe except for the guano, for a veg tea it's too much P unless it's a transition tea for flowering.
Cider vinegar is a great soil orgnic ph down, i use it often to add a little P and organic acids to the soil.
You know my stance on ph and I respect your need to ph adjust, this being said how is adding the liquid seaweed after the bubbling going to affect the tea ph any less than adding it before (when it can feed the microbes and boost the tea and start breaking down).....
If you add the liquid seaweed after the ph shift wil occur in the soil as opposed to in the tea, both ways the dolomite lime will take care of it and the peat will acidify the rest.
Suby
By the way
Superthrive is not or organic and completely unecessary with the Maxicrop working for you.
EJ is for the birds, too many bottles, too steep a price and questionable sources of organic elements like P, plus if is very acidic.
Fish ferts I hate because they smell, the are easy to burn with, and often contain high levels of metals being derived from fish, they are rather useless when compared to high N guano which is harder to burn with and of superior quality.
Christ I sound like an old man, suit yourselves it's just MHO.
Superthrive is not or organic and completely unecessary with the Maxicrop working for you.
EJ is for the birds, too many bottles, too steep a price and questionable sources of organic elements like P, plus if is very acidic.
Fish ferts I hate because they smell, the are easy to burn with, and often contain high levels of metals being derived from fish, they are rather useless when compared to high N guano which is harder to burn with and of superior quality.
Christ I sound like an old man, suit yourselves it's just MHO.
Hellol Suby,
Yeah, I know how you feel about pH and D.lime.
As to the liquid kelp affecting the pH- just observation really. Iused to bubble it all together and I just noticed that the pH is higher then when I i do not.
The listed pH on hte bottle says 8.0 so I know it is alkaline anyway.
When I add it to the tea with is about 7 ish anyway it goes up just a touch.
A little A.C vinegar and all is well.
Now, As far as fert requirements- from my readings, The jeast I get is ratios os 3-2-1 for early veg. Then switch to a ratio of 2-2-2 and finally for flowering 1-2-3.
Now this are ratios I am speaking about- I have not actually tried to achieve the exact ratio.
So far- they plants love it.
minds_I
Yeah, I know how you feel about pH and D.lime.
As to the liquid kelp affecting the pH- just observation really. Iused to bubble it all together and I just noticed that the pH is higher then when I i do not.
The listed pH on hte bottle says 8.0 so I know it is alkaline anyway.
When I add it to the tea with is about 7 ish anyway it goes up just a touch.
A little A.C vinegar and all is well.
Now, As far as fert requirements- from my readings, The jeast I get is ratios os 3-2-1 for early veg. Then switch to a ratio of 2-2-2 and finally for flowering 1-2-3.
Now this are ratios I am speaking about- I have not actually tried to achieve the exact ratio.
So far- they plants love it.
minds_I
crunkinshoe
Member
Here's my final veg tea:
Per gallon of water...
1.5 tbsp ewc
1 tbsp molasses
1 tbsp mexican bat guano
1 tbsp alaska fish fert
1 tsp maxicrop kelp extract
3-4 drops superthrive
1 tsp liquid karma
When I bubbled it I got little "bubble chunks" in it, is this normal?
And what should I do to the recipe when I switch to flowering...
Per gallon of water....
1.5 tbsp ewc
1.5 tbsp molasses
1 tbsp peruvian seabird guano
1 tsp maxicrop kelp extract
3-4 drops superthrive
2 tsp liquid karma
I saw somewhere that kelp makes plants stretch in flowering.... and should I keep using liquid karma and superthrive in flowering?
Per gallon of water...
1.5 tbsp ewc
1 tbsp molasses
1 tbsp mexican bat guano
1 tbsp alaska fish fert
1 tsp maxicrop kelp extract
3-4 drops superthrive
1 tsp liquid karma
When I bubbled it I got little "bubble chunks" in it, is this normal?
And what should I do to the recipe when I switch to flowering...
Per gallon of water....
1.5 tbsp ewc
1.5 tbsp molasses
1 tbsp peruvian seabird guano
1 tsp maxicrop kelp extract
3-4 drops superthrive
2 tsp liquid karma
I saw somewhere that kelp makes plants stretch in flowering.... and should I keep using liquid karma and superthrive in flowering?
