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ak48 28days from seed dwc rusty leaves

deepsoul

Member
hi folks

my grow has been going really well as you can see from my thread

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=21510&page=1&pp=15

veging in 2 x 50litre tubs with an aircurtain in each being pumped with a 9litre a minute pump and using canna nutes...

these rusty spots have started to appear very quickly..

any help would be fantastic as this is my first problem...

at the moment I have done nothing except check my ph ec and temps...

ph 5.5 ec 1.6 water starts at ec of 0.3 and temps for water are 19- 24c .. ambient temps between 21 - 27c humididty mainly around 45 - 50.

I have noticed that sometimes when my light comes on after lights out that there is moisture on some of the leaves..

as i noticed that on one plant it had these same rusty spots about a week ago and i figured it had water splashed on it and that had burnt the leaves...

anywayz ..some pics...






 

deepsoul

Member
some leaves have also become very limp on the ends...and some of the larger fan leaves are tairing on the veins.... I cant do much now, but I will get some more air stones and run a second pump tomorow..
 
G

Guest

I got a spot of this same rust coloring on one leaf of one of my 1 week old plants. It looks just like yours only in just 1 spot. It seems otherwise healthy.

I think it was too close to the light. It was the top leaf on mine that got this and maybe it had moisture on it (not sure now). I dunno, someone experienced might be able to help us.
 
IVC=intervienal chlorosis
me thinks a mag def mate
1/2-3/4 teaspoon epsom salts dissolved in warm water first, should fix em' right up
Also...do you flush with new nutes to avoid toxins and salts build up? This could be contributing to the deficency
Personally I would empty the res and fill with fresh nutes. This ensures no guessing is necessary
 

deepsoul

Member
yeah mate I empty the tank once a week and start a fresh. I am thinking from doing a bit of reading in the sticky on sick plants that its a ph problem that is causing nute lockout...how this is happening I am not too sure. The worst tank has a ph of 5.8 and the second tank which only has a few spots has a ph of 5.4. I was looking back thru my gro diary and when I started I allways kept the ph at 5.2, but then after a while i would let it rise..I also noticed that after that I mentioned seeing very tiny spots..so it does look like ph spotting...

Now about 4 days ago i forgot to put nutes in the worst tank for about 24 hours but i did adjust the ph down.. I then put nutes back in the tank which lowered the ph below 5 but the plants were not in there for long I dont think...
the worst tank also went for about 18hrs without oxygen as the lid closed the airlines..

I am really disapointed at the few mistakes I have made..but I need to fix them and fix em quickly....

my ec also seems really high for the amount of nutes I have in there..so I think it will be best to flush my tanks out and start again tonight. I am tempted to lower the ph now with ph down but as I keep reading the plants stress from having the ph messed with all the time...

I wonder how long it takes plants to recover from these problems? and any more advice would be excellent
 
Last edited:

-Dank Hill-

New member
Mg. lockout

Mg. lockout

:2cents: Looks like an Mg lockout from a high EC.

Water from the tap is running EC 0.3 or a PPM of 150 or 210 which seems ok.
Your water may be high in calcium.

Depending on which EC factor you multiply by (500 or 700)
you have a total PPM of 800 or 1120 @ 1.6.

No def. symptoms are visible during the first 3-4 weeks.
The 4-6 weeks of growth the first signs of def. appear.
Interveinal yellowing and irregular rust brown spots
appear on older and middle-aged leaves first.

A high EC slows water evaporation and diminishes Magnesium(Mg) availability.
Keep PH above 5.6 and lower high EC for a week.

An excess of Potassium(K), or ammonia nitrogen
and Calcium(Ca) lockout Mg.

On the off chance it is actually a lack of Mg in your nutes.
you can add Epsom salts, how much per gal. escapes me ATM.

Also water temps are high @ 29°C or 84°F, which
reduces dissolved oxygen content and can set
you up for root rot.
You should keep your water temps around 18°C/ 65°F.
59°F or 60°F gives the max. dissolved oxygen content
in water if I remember correctly. :2cents:
 
G

Guest

Looks like mag def, next time you water add 1/4 tsp of epsom salt per gallon of water.
 

shrike

Member
Looks like brown spot fungus to me. Try a spray of "Safers" Garden Fungicide, and make sure you spray under the leaves as well.

I assume they are not in flower yet? Which is when to apply the fungicide, if the plants were in flower then I'd just leave it.

Good Luck

Shrike
 

deepsoul

Member
ok thanks for all the replies...
before I went to sleep I read that canna nutes are quite low on the mg and itw was a good idea to supplement the mg so i added the epsom salts at 1/4 tsp per gallon. I did however lower the ph to 5.2.

I would like to stress that my water temp stays below 24c at most times it 19-21. Just when I change tubs the water is at toom temp and last time this water was at 29c..but then i put ice bottles in the water and the room temp in cab is usually 27c at highest.

dankhill the info there on ec is interesting as I have noticed the ec to be very high for the amount of nutes I have in there...one tub had drunk alot of water and I noticed that one large fan leaf was sweating last night .. I wonder what causes this??

my ec conversion factor is 500...

I am changing the contents of the tubs tonight and re checking everything..

Shrike I really hope its not a fungus they are still in veg ...
 

-Dank Hill-

New member
-Dank Hill- said:
No def. symptoms are visible during the first 3-4 weeks.
The 4-6 weeks of growth the first signs of def. appear.
Interveinal yellowing and irregular rust brown spots
appear on older and middle-aged leaves first.

A high EC slows water evaporation and diminishes Magnesium(Mg) availability.
Keep PH above 5.6 and lower high EC for a week.

An excess of Potassium(K), or ammonia nitrogen
and Calcium(Ca) lockout Mg.
This is out of the book "Indoor Marijuana Horticulture" by Jorge Cervantes
he got the nute defs. info from Canna Coco. www.canna.com
 

spicecowboy

Active member
Very interresting thread.

Guess I also have a manesium deficiency problem going in my garden right now.

Very informative,


greetings,

spice
 
G

Guest

before I went to sleep I read that canna nutes are quite low on the mg and itw was a good idea to supplement the mg so i added the epsom salts at 1/4 tsp per gallon. I did however lower the ph to 5.2.

Canna nutes usually have a higher amount of Mg and Calcium as they a meant for coco.
If you rplants go very dark green after adding epsom salts them you have added too much Mg, just a tip.
It's not bad idea to let the solutions ph rise gently to low 6's over a couple days, different elements get assimilated better at different ph values between 5.5-6.2 in hydro, a slight drift let's them get feed a a different diet over the rise.
Lowering ph everyday can cause it's own problems.

.02$

J
 

deepsoul

Member
hi jinxie..

yeah I have jus let my ph rise this week.

I think I am pretty certain in saying that I have had a ph problem that has caused this. I say this because my roots stopped growing and started to not look so good...since I have let the ph rise..its up to 5.8 now I have had major fresh root growth, and I know this is extremely important....the most important really...so i think rather then a deficiency i think its been a ph problem...5.2 is no good when they get a bit older... I have no root rot so that is fantastic...but yeah i have fresh white roots really popping out everywhere now that the ph is higher..so i don't recommend a low ph.. ya know ya read that nutrient uptake is highest with alow ph...screw that.... so much crap info floats around.....
 

mace_ecam

Active member
posted by jinxie
It's not bad idea to let the solutions ph rise gently to low 6's over a couple days, different elements get assimilated better at different ph values between 5.5-6.2 in hydro, a slight drift let's them get feed a a different diet over the rise.
the trick is to let it drift as jinxie said, don't try to nail your pH!

most micros are taken up best at lower pH, the makros are getting taken up better at a higher pH, generally speaking.
 

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