Advice from electricians

[coldcanna]

Hey guys I'm just doing some final touches on wiring my new room and had a few questions. First, I have a couple old Galaxy electronic 600 watt ballasts that say on them that they run at 120 or 240, I've always had them going at 120 but would like to switch over, how would I go about doing that? I'd like to put a 30 amp double pole in the box to run 4x 600 watt lights, so I also would like advice on a heavy duty timer to wire onto this line. Thank you !

 

[the gnome]

this is right up your alley, I used this design in the bloom room i built a few yrs back.
https://www.hydroponics.net/learn/grow-light-controller.php
one of the reasons I like this design is by using a power relay I can use a cheap digital timer like an apollo 9 without blowing the bulb when using a digital ballast.
here's what mine looks like

if this is not up your alley but down the street
use a 2 pole breaker in the fuse panel rated for your load ,
for a 30a breaker you'll need to run a #10-3 wire from that to a 220V intermatic mechanical timer.
from the timer you go to your ballasts either hardwired or on a plug.
I'd use the plug for convenience.

 

[coldcanna]

Thanks Gnome that was an awesome read, I had no idea how simple it was to wire up a light controller, that's going to work perfectly for me. The next thing was the 120 vs 240 on the electronic ballast, the sticker states the amp load for each voltage setting, there isn't a switch or different outlets on the ballast which leads me to believe it's an internal modification, I'm hoping someone can weigh in.

 

[the gnome]

yup,
120v-240v is an internal auto function with all the std. elec. ballasts Ive seen.
mag ballasts use manual switches for voltage and mh-hps

I found info in the link extremely useful and easy for the average person
and builds a solid jam up lite controller for way cheap compared to buying pre-made
controllers. the digital timers allow me to be able to do a sequenced start up.

 

[coldcanna]

So when you say auto function, I can just plug it into 240 and the ballast switches on its own with no modifications from me?

 

[the gnome]

every electronic ballast Ive had or seen doesn't have a manual voltage switch, it senses the incoming line voltage and compensates.
the only thing you may have to do for 220v is get a 220v rated plug and recepticle if you don't hardwire direct to the timer

 

[coldcanna]

Awesome, changing the plugs is easy enough

 

[meadowman]

i have the same ballast cc....just switch the cord feeding the ballast to 220v, plug n go.



edit: i should have read the entire thread.....what gnome said...lol

 

[queequeg152]

in regards to a heavy duty timer. you cannot go wrong with the old school mechanical Intermatic pool pump timers.

the same unit has been runnning my pool pumps for like 35 years. yea the metal enclosure needs to be replaced... it was painted steel not galvanized or anything, but other than that i have 0 complaints about it.

it had a huge wasp nest in it one year; i removed the old dedicated vacuum pool cleaner pump and did not plug the conduit knockout, so it got hosed out with flying insect killer... did not even phase it though.

its a stupid simple unit... gear motor+ gear train with cams that push contacts together via movable pins that you move around the steel clock face.

what sucks about it is... if the power goes out, you have to readjust the time manually.

they make digitial ones obiviously, but i cannot speak to their durability or anything like that.

rated for 40 amps at 240v i believe.

 

[coldcanna]

Thanks for the input everyone, looks like all my questions have been answered.

 

[Jhhnn]

If you go that route, be aware that a 30A breaker does not properly protect cords rated at half that. Wire in one of these with a 15A or 20A fuse at each receptacle to avoid safety issues-

http://www.amazon.com/Fuse-Holder-I...&sr=8-24&keywords=inline+fuse+holder+12+gauge

 

[JamesFarmer]

If you go that route, be aware that a 30A breaker does not properly protect cords rated at half that. Wire in one of these with a 15A or 20A fuse at each receptacle to avoid safety issues-

http://www.amazon.com/Fuse-Holder-I...&sr=8-24&keywords=inline+fuse+holder+12+gauge

I am all for being safe but this may not be needed. If you want to take extra steps for above normal protection measure I will not discourage you.

That said, when you plug a table lamp with an 18ga cord into a receptacle served by a 20A branch circuit do you place a 10A fuse inline?

Also, that fuse holder does not meet NEC.

IMHO as a retired electrician, a 20A circuit will serve you fine. I would expect each lamp to have a running current draw of less than 3 amps.

Just my $.02

Be safe & have fun!

FJ

 

[Jhhnn]

I am all for being safe but this may not be needed. If you want to take extra steps for above normal protection measure I will not discourage you.

That said, when you plug a table lamp with an 18ga cord into a receptacle served by a 20A branch circuit do you place a 10A fuse inline?

Also, that fuse holder does not meet NEC.

IMHO as a retired electrician, a 20A circuit will serve you fine. I would expect each lamp to have a running current draw of less than 3 amps.

Just my $.02

Be safe & have fun!

FJ

Lots of different ways to look at it. As you say, a 20A circuit on #12 wire would be more than adequate on a run of 50 ft or less. That's 4800w, de-rated to 80% for continuous loads becomes 3840w capacity. Figure that a 600w system draws nearly 700w so it will feed 5 such systems. Using standard 20A 240 v receptacles lets it meet code & be safe w/ 15A rated cords.

Stepping up to a 30A breaker & #10 wire really demands a sub panel to meet code w/ 20A receptacles & properly protect cords or one can cheat w/ fuses at each receptacle.

Doing it to code is always the best answer, of course.