Advanced Nutrients coco automatic watering table

[notoriousweed]

I'm looking for an easy Advanced Nutrients chart to prevent my irrigation system from clogging.
Do you have any recommendations?
What products should I use?

 

[Creeperpark]

I thought Advanced Nutrients for coco went out of business?

 

[DaEarl73]

Don’t use advanced nutrients! Their pro line doesn’t work, it’s the budcandy that causes reactions with some of the extras (tarantula or one of them) , that you have pieces of some weird stuff in the water. I asked them once how to fix the problem and found out in their answers that their own chart doesn’t make sense. Good luck

 

[Creeperpark]

Don’t use advanced nutrients! There pro line doesn’t work, it’s the budcandy that causes reactions with some of the extras (tarantula or one of them) , that you have pieces of some weird stuff in the water. I asked them once how to fix the problem and found out in their answers that their own chart doesn’t make sense. Good luck

I knew those mother f were rip-offs. Oh excuse me I slipped, Sorry.

 

[DaEarl73]

I knew those mother f were rip-offs. Oh excuse me I slipped, Sorry.

For how expensive they are at least it should work flawless hahahaha

 

[stinkybudz420]

Interesting experience

 

[Rexel]

To actually answer OP's question instead of keep bashing AN that doesn't help OP out I'm gonna try to answer the question?

Avoid any of their microbial products in their line like tarantula and voodoo juice. They do more harm than good in an automated setup. Focus on the mineral based plant food and sterility.

To prevent biofilm buildup and clogged lines I've used regular unscented bleach for years in hydro and soilless. 2ppm is safe and a good starting point. I use this dilution calculator http://foodsafe.ca/dilution-calculator.html

There's commercial available products that's chlorine based like pyth off or silver bullet. Most are hypochlorous acid based that sodium hypochlorite gets broken down to in solution. Bleach has longer residual effect and easier to use in practice. Bleach is safer to use than hydrogen peroxide since it's a weaker oxidizer with longer residual effect and action.

The Sodium part that people argue is a negative is tiny in comparison to the hypochlorite side of the molecule. Arguably that it only adds bulk and betters water uptake if anything?

PM if you have any problems using the calculator.

Cheers!

 

[DaEarl73]

To actually answer OP's question instead of keep bashing AN that doesn't help OP out I'm gonna try to answer the question?

Avoid any of their microbial products in their line like tarantula and voodoo juice. They do more harm than good in an automated setup. Focus on the mineral based plant food and sterility.

To prevent biofilm buildup and clogged lines I've used regular unscented bleach for years in hydro and soilless. 2ppm is safe and a good starting point. I use this dilution calculator http://foodsafe.ca/dilution-calculator.html

There's commercial available products that's chlorine based like pyth off or silver bullet. Most are hypochlorous acid based that sodium hypochlorite gets broken down to in solution. Bleach has longer residual effect and easier to use in practice. Bleach is safer to use than hydrogen peroxide since it's a weaker oxidizer with longer residual effect and action.

The Sodium part that people argue is a negative is tiny in comparison to the hypochlorite side of the molecule. Arguably that it only adds bulk and betters water uptake if anything?

PM if you have any problems using the calculator.

Cheers!

I would say , I answered it well. I asked them in person and their response was , it’s because of the reaction of budcandy with tarantula or voodoo juice, what they write in their proline chart, so my conclusion is, that their own chart doesn’t work and they know it but let people buy it. For me that’s bad business. Have a nice one

 

[DaEarl73]

The chart you find online, maybe it helps to put just water after the end of the irrigation that the system doesn’t clog

 

[Rexel]

I would say , I answered it well. I asked them in person and their response was , it’s because of the reaction of budcandy with tarantula or voodoo juice, what they write in their proline chart, so my conclusion is, that their own chart doesn’t work and they know it but let people buy it. For me that’s bad business. Have a nice one

The only ones who follow manufacturers recommendations and charts are people starting out. Many people choose to follow recommendations from real world experience from real growers and therefore won't experience any problems and mismatched information.

They are in it to sell product, not necessarily helping people out. They want to include all of their products in all of their schedules instead of giving proper recommendations for different growing methods.

That's is questionable for sure but they market for profit and sell more bottles than any other brand so their marketing seem to work? I don't agree with it but they sell a lot of products!

All mineral based plant foods contain the same source minerals in different ratios.

 

[DaEarl73]

The only ones who follow manufacturers recommendations and charts are people starting out. Many people choose to follow recommendations from real world experience from real growers and therefore won't experience any problems and mismatched information.

They are in it to sell product, not necessarily helping people out. They want to include all of their products in all of their schedules instead of giving proper recommendations for different growing methods.

That's is questionable for sure but they market for profit and sell more bottles than any other brand so their marketing seem to work? I don't agree with it but they sell a lot of products!

All mineral based plant foods contain the same source minerals in different ratios.

Agree but I think it’s pretty fucked up! Especially if the products doesn’t work together! They have no special science team, that knows what they’re doing? It doesn’t seem so. But yeah you can learn how to market stuff! Better choose products that do it for longer and don’t market their products with cartoons. All just my 2 cents, everyone is invited to think for themselves. All I did is pointing out, that their recommendations aren’t worth anything

 

[Mr.NotSoFast]

Don’t use advanced nutrients! Their pro line doesn’t work, it’s the budcandy that causes reactions with some of the extras (tarantula or one of them) , that you have pieces of some weird stuff in the water. I asked them once how to fix the problem and found out in their answers that their own chart doesn’t make sense. Good luck

It's bud factor x and bud candy.... Can be avoided if mixing bud candy first in reservoir and bud factor x last. Good mixing between. Anything with sugar and bud factor x will do clogging.

Great for coco but in hydro may occurs some problems.

Overly priced! Cheap leaking plastic bottles! FUK yours Messy bottles

 

[DaEarl73]

It's bud factor x and bud candy.... Can be avoided if mixing bud candy first in reservoir and bud factor x last. Good mixing between. Anything with sugar and bud factor x will do clogging.

Great for coco but in hydro may occurs some problems.

Overly priced! Cheap leaking plastic bottles! FUK yours Messy bottles

I tried it with mixing separately and putting at first/last whatever. You can use it, but it doesn’t seem right

 

[stinkybudz420]

It's bud factor x and bud candy.... Can be avoided if mixing bud candy first in reservoir and bud factor x last. Good mixing between. Anything with sugar and bud factor x will do clogging.

Great for coco but in hydro may occurs some problems.

Overly priced! Cheap leaking plastic bottles! FUK yours Messy bottles

The bottle caps on every set are not great. I will totally vouch on that. Each insert under the cap comes unglued very easy and that's what is supposed to make the bottle seal.

There is definitely an order in which you're supposed to mix ingredients to get the maximum effect. I think most people who are Advanced enough Growers are aware of that however their chart shows adding microbes early when I infact alway add that part in last.
I only use dtw so my stuff doesnt sit in a res long besides when i mix. I've never seen clumping but I also have never once used their budfactor product.

This is basically what I use. Although I use nirvana. Silica and voodoo plus tablets since I got a 100$ pack if those free and it serves up about 100 gallons. Also I use these guidelines

 

[967]

I live in New Zealand and this is one of the few major nutrient lines I've never seen here, and I'm ok with that . Shit gets expensive all the way down here, the likes of canna boost etc. Shit the old house and garden roots excelerator 250ml was $175 like 10 years ago. I get 25kg of base and 25kg of calcium nitrate for less than that. Would hate to think what a grow of the full AN line would cost

Edit: Did a quick search, none in NZ but found it in Australia, $310AUD for connoisseur 4L a+b... You gotta be fuckin kidding me

 

[stinkybudz420]

I live in New Zealand and this is one of the few major nutrient lines I've never seen here, and I'm ok with that . Shit gets expensive all the way down here, the likes of canna boost etc. Shit the old house and garden roots excelerator 250ml was $175 like 10 years ago. I get 25kg of base and 25kg of calcium nitrate for less than that. Would hate to think what a grow of the full AN line would cost

Edit: Did a quick search, none in NZ but found it in Australia, $310AUD for connoisseur 4L a+b... You gotta be fuckin kidding me

Here's a spendy one for you to follow

 

[967]

I run Yara kristalon brown, calcium nitrate, MKP, epsom, calcium sulfate, mono silicic and "organic acids" which is a soluble dry made up of humic, fulvic, amino acids and kelp. Nice and cheap. Just bought DTPA iron to amend what I consider to be low iron content of kristalon. What's in this AN shit that I don't have in my no frills mix? Pgr's? Northern white rhino piss? Adrenochrome?

 

[Hiddenjems]

Wow, here I am running jacks 5-12-26, and calcium nitrate in tap water.

 

[stinkybudz420]

I run Yara kristalon brown, calcium nitrate, MKP, epsom, calcium sulfate, mono silicic and "organic acids" which is a soluble dry made up of humic, fulvic, amino acids and kelp. Nice and cheap. Just bought DTPA iron to amend what I consider to be low iron content of kristalon. What's in this AN shit that I don't have in my no frills mix? Pgr's? Northern white rhino piss? Adrenochrome?

That's definitely a cheaper route. More work than I personally want to do mixing things . Bottles are convenient and effective for me.
I lf I save 2 hours time not measuring npk/calmag powders etc throughout my grow, to me that's saving 40$ and makes bottles the more effective route. Time is money.

 

[stinkybudz420]

Wow, here I am running jacks 5-12-26, and calcium nitrate in tap water.

If it works that's what matters most. Its sold everywhere for a reason.