adding a drain and water connections

[yamaha_1fan]

In my basement, there is a drain pipe that runs across the ceiling from the kitchen sink, then runs straight down the wall (wall is unfinished on one side) and into the ground, probably to the septic tank. Can I just tap into this? I know I would have to put in a trap but is that it? does it need to be vented or assumably it is already vented and that is fine? I really need to add this drain as currently I run a hose out my garage and pump out 200 gallons. Its cold as hell and looks pretty odd.

It would also be nice to add some water lines at this spot for a utility sink in the garage. The lines are already there running to the water heater. Copper I guess. Is there any way to tap into these w/o having to solder the new fittings in? I have the torch and all so I could probably do it. Problem is if I bung it up and have to call a plumber, I am up shits creek as this is right outside my grow room.

 

[Guest]

prolly want a gas trap od that drain - but yes - if it's the lowest spot in the drain system - also add a back flo preventer - just in case.


Get a ice maker installation kit and use that to get your supply - no soldering!

 

[yamaha_1fan]

theres other drains in the basement, 2 toilets, a shower, bath tub and 3 sinks, just none of them are near where I want my drain. do I still need a back flow preventer? Actually if there was a backflow from the septic tank, I would want it to backflow in my garage area versus the finished areas.

Gas trap? You mean a normal "J" trap like under a kitchen sink?

 

[Albert Hofmann]

Plumb the drain just like a sink with a J trap. As for the water feed, if you feel like you're not up to the challenge of soldering I guess you could try a saddle valve like SolarT suggested but it will be painfully slow with a 1/4" feed line and they are notoriously prone to leaking. I would suggest a T off the closest cold water line to a spiggot that you can hook a hose up to. Make sure the water is off for the house, open a couple sink faucets to help clear the line, cut a spot in the water line for the T, let the water continue to drain (the line needs to be dry). Scuff up all connections with 100grit sandpaper, then flux all connections, fit them together, and get your solder on I would also suggest a Mapp gas torch (yellow tank) as it is much hotter.

 

[Guest]

Yamaha, a sawzall with metal blade will handle the cutting, if it is cast iron the tool rental place will have a chain breaker.

Before you "break" the pipe determine its O.D., go to plumbing supply house and let the counter person know what you are doing and he will set you up with a sanitary-tee, fittings, oakum,lead wool and a packing tool. He will give you some pointers as to the how to.

If the piping is galvanized steel the counter guy will set you up, including couplings and free advise.

How close is the laundry basin, toilet, water heater or washing machine?


1/4" lines don't deliver water fast, but they do deliver. Attach a ball float in the rez and hook the 1/4" line to it. The ballcock will shut the water off when the rez is full. Make sure the water line and hookups are out of the way so you don't bust it and cause a flood, or just shut it off at the saddle tap when the rez is full.

I have found that farm and ranch supply stores sell a very solid ballcock/float assembly that is nearly bulletproof. They are used on livestock water troughs & tanks. The plumbing supply might well have it too.

Happy New Year Yamaha, Albert, and All ya' All

Ty-Stik

 

[Guest]

If that IS going into the septic tank beware of your PH so you don't destroy the little turd eating microbes, they get mad as hell when when folks mess with their chow. To maintain PH I use baking soda in my tank periodically. It must work, the tank was pumped in 1991, 1998, 2006, and this was only for preventive maintenance purposes.

It is a common statement regarding septic tanks that you shouldn't put it in there if you haven't eaten it FIRST! I like the company slogan on my pumpers truck, it says: "Yesterdays Meals on Wheels".

 

[yamaha_1fan]

How close is the laundry basin, toilet, water heater or washing machine?

The water heater is right next to where I plan on doing all this. Laundry is upstairs and the toilet is not far but on opposite wall.

The drain is the most important issue right now.

I already have a hose running into the grow room and it works fairly well. I have it run through the ceiling from the filter system (its connected to the tank, before it gets filtered and softened). I just shut off the valve when done so the hose is not under pressure when I am not around.

 

[Guest]

Sorry Yammy - the backflow preventer is good for the lowest drain in the house - that is where any backups will first show - Handy for a septic system - even more important if you are on public sewage and have a lower drain systen than your neighbors. -- If you haven't had a problem - don't sweat it. My basment drains used to back up when the city line plugged -- nuff said - backflow preventer drains are seldom needed - but worth concideration.

yeah - J pipe is a gas trap - that's why they want that bit of water to seal off the pipe - keeps sewer gas outa the home.



200 gallons - yeah - that makes a 5 gallon bucket about useless.

 

[Guest]

Yamaha, the cold water pipe to the Water Heater, does it have a flexible connector between them? Some times referred to as Water-Flex Connector

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

i dont want to sound rude but why dont you drain into the toilet for now?
i use my toilet to discard all my liquid waste. 5 gallons at a time.

 

[yamaha_1fan]

Yamaha, the cold water pipe to the Water Heater, does it have a flexible connector between them? Some times referred to as Water-Flex Connector

In my old house yes, so I know what you mean. This house, NO, pipe soldered right to the heater

DH, I never thought of that. DOH !! But the bathroom is in a finished area and I would have to run my hose through the finished area. Probably not a big deal but I am trying to tweak things so everything runs smoothly and everything is as hassle free as possible. Last flood got me busted.

Typing this has brought on some new ideas. hmmmm


Thanks alot for the help guys

 

[DIGITALHIPPY]

In my old house yes, so I know what you mean. This house, NO, pipe soldered right to the heater

DH, I never thought of that. DOH !! But the bathroom is in a finished area and I would have to run my hose through the finished area. Probably not a big deal but I am trying to tweak things so everything runs smoothly and everything is as hassle free as possible. Last flood got me busted.

Typing this has brought on some new ideas. hmmmm


Thanks alot for the help guys

im thinking if its a coper pipe u could put a T or pigtail on top of the w/heater
ive seen 'add-a-"T"' kits at home depot.