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Absorbers Bell Syphon Automated Grow

Absorber

Well-known member
Hello all ,my name is Absorber or Abe for short .
I have a custom designed grow with proven results .
It uses a 3d printed bell syphon to flood and drain the four 15ltr buckets in each tent , i have two 4ft² tents with 1ft clone/mother section on the end making the tent sizes 4ft x 5ft in total each.
I run 1000w phlizon lights @480w tops ,i have a 3d printed light lifter to raise and lower the light as its to difficult with a scrog net and tent full of plants .
I have a 2 zone controller for the tents and a common 250mm extraction fan and carbon filter fitted under the floor and you can see the 3d printed purple Y piece with 3d printed electric shutters controlling air flow from each tent via a humidity sensor . The fan runs at half speed when 1 tent calls for fan ( regardless of which tent) and ramps up to full speed when second tent calls for fan .
I run cyco nutrients and calmag
Thats it no boosters or anyting else apart from ph buffers .
I have a chiller on the resevoir.
Ive just converted the second tent to a bell syphon setup as it out performed the SIP pots i had in there as a comparison .

Warning some potty language in video's:sasmokin:




Any questions are welcome
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Absorber

Well-known member
Instead of the cam just watching siphon fill, can you do a more indepth vid...maybe stand off reservoir with camera and explain what happens as it happens? "Then it travels down this main line to..."
Sort of like a cinematic pan, if i explained that right
Are you trying to get your head around it :cool:.
I will make one for you while i have no plants in there so its easier to see .
It may take an hour as my internet speeds are shit so the upload might take awhile
tree.gif
 

Porky82

Well-known member
Hello all ,my name is Absorber or Abe for short .
I have a custom designed grow with proven results .
It uses a 3d printed bell syphon to flood and drain the four 15ltr buckets in each tent , i have two 4ft² tents with 1ft clone/mother section on the end making the tent sizes 4ft x 5ft in total each.
I run 1000w phlizon lights @480w tops ,i have a 3d printed light lifter to raise and lower the light as its to difficult with a scrog net and tent full of plants .
I have a 2 zone controller for the tents and a common 250mm extraction fan and carbon filter fitted under the floor and you can see the 3d printed purple Y piece with 3d printed electric shutters controlling air flow from each tent via a humidity sensor . The fan runs at half speed when 1 tent calls for fan ( regardless of which tent) and ramps up to full speed when second tent calls for fan .
I run cyco nutrients and calmag
Thats it no boosters or anyting else apart from ph buffers .
I have a chiller on the resevoir.
Ive just converted the second tent to a bell syphon setup as it out performed the SIP pots i had in there as a comparison .

Warning some potty language in video's:sasmokin:




Any questions are welcome
View attachment 19049960 View attachment 19049961 View attachment 19049964
View attachment 19049969

Hay mate good to see ya here. Results look very nice!!
 

Porky82

Well-known member
Hello all ,my name is Absorber or Abe for short .
I have a custom designed grow with proven results .
It uses a 3d printed bell syphon to flood and drain the four 15ltr buckets in each tent , i have two 4ft² tents with 1ft clone/mother section on the end making the tent sizes 4ft x 5ft in total each.
I run 1000w phlizon lights @480w tops ,i have a 3d printed light lifter to raise and lower the light as its to difficult with a scrog net and tent full of plants .
I have a 2 zone controller for the tents and a common 250mm extraction fan and carbon filter fitted under the floor and you can see the 3d printed purple Y piece with 3d printed electric shutters controlling air flow from each tent via a humidity sensor . The fan runs at half speed when 1 tent calls for fan ( regardless of which tent) and ramps up to full speed when second tent calls for fan .
I run cyco nutrients and calmag
Thats it no boosters or anyting else apart from ph buffers .
I have a chiller on the resevoir.
Ive just converted the second tent to a bell syphon setup as it out performed the SIP pots i had in there as a comparison .

Warning some potty language in video's:sasmokin:




Any questions are welcome
View attachment 19049960 View attachment 19049961 View attachment 19049964
View attachment 19049969

How have the lights been mate?
No dramas after the dimmer issue.
 

Absorber

Well-known member
Instead of the cam just watching siphon fill, can you do a more indepth vid...maybe stand off reservoir with camera and explain what happens as it happens? "Then it travels down this main line to..."
Sort of like a cinematic pan, if i explained that right
Ok here is a video of this bell syphon working ,excuse the mess im in between changing set ups in one of the tents and havent had a chance to get to it all.
 

Absorber

Well-known member
You should kit that out, brand it, and become a millionaire
Easier to sell the idea to someone else
woohoo.gif

It is pretty simple and easy to run ,it will be even better when i fit the automated pH doser from Growee .
I designed it to be simple with less moving parts and no medium to cut down on costs ,it only uses a 50mm grow wool block in each basket .
1 pump no timers and no aerator needed.
groupwave.gif
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
Hey @greyfader , hope your doing fine. Have a look at Absorbers system here. I find it quite similar in some regards to your PPK system; frequent water/air cycles thru flooding and removing water from the rootzone. I thought youd get a kick out of it and maybe you could weigh in on a thought i had but wanted to bring up with you before bringing it up:
If we assume that roots in in contact with fresh air can take thei o2 from air and not cold water, could there be a point in removing the chiller from his res? I mean, cold res in hydro seems to only be for the O2, and that would already be taken care of, right?

Absorber, would you be inclined to test this?
Run the system, with temperature sensor inside the res and outside the res without the chiller on for a day or two to see what difference it makes? It may be so small that it probably dont matters to temps. And it may even be that it doesnt even matter to the plants, since they should have all the O2 they need from the flush water, air in cycle.
Hydro with no aeration, no chiller would be quite the breakthrough imo.
 

Absorber

Well-known member
Hey @greyfader , hope your doing fine. Have a look at Absorbers system here. I find it quite similar in some regards to your PPK system; frequent water/air cycles thru flooding and removing water from the rootzone. I thought youd get a kick out of it and maybe you could weigh in on a thought i had but wanted to bring up with you before bringing it up:
If we assume that roots in in contact with fresh air can take thei o2 from air and not cold water, could there be a point in removing the chiller from his res? I mean, cold res in hydro seems to only be for the O2, and that would already be taken care of, right?

Absorber, would you be inclined to test this?
Run the system, with temperature sensor inside the res and outside the res without the chiller on for a day or two to see what difference it makes? It may be so small that it probably dont matters to temps. And it may even be that it doesnt even matter to the plants, since they should have all the O2 they need from the flush water, air in cycle.
Hydro with no aeration, no chiller would be quite the breakthrough imo.
My resevoir used to get to warm/hot and mid grow i put that chiller on to maintain 19°c i was avoiding root rot issues without having to dose the resevoir with bleech or h2o2 .
The system has no aerator though.
 

Rocket Soul

Well-known member
My resevoir used to get to warm and mid grow i put that chiller on to maintain 19°c i was avoiding root rot issues without having to dose the resevoir with bleech or h2o2 .
The system has no aerator though.
If i understand correctly root rot tends to happen not so much due to temps but due to the anaerobic conditions that high temp res can cause. But your system would not be anaerobic more than the time it takes to run a drain/fill cycle, when its emptied it should draw in air and get aerobic again in my reasoning. Greyfaders PPK runs without aeration and without chiller and hes made it work very well so thats why i pulled him into this thread.
I suggest doing a search on PPK here on the forum for info on his very clever system, or maybe better see if he can recommend which thread is best to start with and most updated - some of the original threads was quite dense to read, but they were dealing with how to do PPK at large scale, both top watering and moving water below in the individual plant reservoirs. Hell be the best to point out where to start if you like a read up.

If you havent had any problems with root rot without a cooler in a previous run it may be that this component isnt strictly necessary but of course its a good safety feature. Or that the frequent aircycles actually means you can keep your res at a higher temp.

It would be super interesting to find out how much the constant pump raises the water temps without a cooler - with some contrasting ambient temps for comparison. If you could lose the cooler it would be a simplification, dont you agree?

Again, hydro with no high power pump, no chiller and no aeration needed would be a very nice step forward. High power pumps working to push high amounts of water upwards seems like such a way to get your pump to break, this system seems like much safer. You could even have two small pumps running and if one fails the system will still run on half speed which should be enough to keep going until you detect and fix the issue.
Im quite impressed and that doesnt happen everyday. Lets see more of this :)
 

Absorber

Well-known member
If i understand correctly root rot tends to happen not so much due to temps but due to the anaerobic conditions that high temp res can cause. But your system would not be anaerobic more than the time it takes to run a drain/fill cycle, when its emptied it should draw in air and get aerobic again in my reasoning. Greyfaders PPK runs without aeration and without chiller and hes made it work very well so thats why i pulled him into this thread.
I suggest doing a search on PPK here on the forum for info on his very clever system, or maybe better see if he can recommend which thread is best to start with and most updated - some of the original threads was quite dense to read, but they were dealing with how to do PPK at large scale, both top watering and moving water below in the individual plant reservoirs. Hell be the best to point out where to start if you like a read up.

If you havent had any problems with root rot without a cooler in a previous run it may be that this component isnt strictly necessary but of course its a good safety feature. Or that the frequent aircycles actually means you can keep your res at a higher temp.

It would be super interesting to find out how much the constant pump raises the water temps without a cooler - with some contrasting ambient temps for comparison. If you could lose the cooler it would be a simplification, dont you agree?

Again, hydro with no high power pump, no chiller and no aeration needed would be a very nice step forward. High power pumps working to push high amounts of water upwards seems like such a way to get your pump to break, this system seems like much safer. You could even have two small pumps running and if one fails the system will still run on half speed which should be enough to keep going until you detect and fix the issue.
Im quite impressed and that doesnt happen everyday. Lets see more of this :)
Thanks
smokey.gif

When chiller wasnt on it would get to 27°c easy on a 36°c day in summer, i had a dash of bleech in the system before chiller was added so i cant say weather it would have been fine but i wasnt taking any chances .
I kinda like the cooler resevoir i feel it helps with combating hotter enviromental conditions on the plant ,i have no research articles to back that up just gut feeling and being the buckets empty and the roots get oxygen that way so its not a big concern to me that theres less oxygen in colder water ,its probably just denser .
I hear what you are saying about less is best though :smoke:
 
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