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8KW TIMER
- Thread starter Hydropimp
- Start date
Y
yamaha_1fan
Cheap and simple would be the Intermatic hot water heater timers like the T104
http://www.intermatic.com/?action=subcat&sid=85
I run 4000 off one and 5000 off the other. They handle up to 40 amps and with 6000W being 25 amps, it should work for you fine.
http://www.intermatic.com/?action=subcat&sid=85
I run 4000 off one and 5000 off the other. They handle up to 40 amps and with 6000W being 25 amps, it should work for you fine.
Y
yamaha_1fan
Hydropimp said:
????
I have two timers for the lights and one for my air compressor. The air compressor is set to run during lights off only. I also have my ballasts mounted on the board. I used ballast kits from HTG versus enclosed ballasts
I have power coming from the timer to distribution blocks. They are actually grounding blocks that are used in breaker panels but they work for this as well. I just had a hard time trying to wire6 wires together
BigWillyDee
Member
you could easily build one of these...i ended up buying one but......
K
kelimmo
I think the best way to go is using any timer you like using and letting contactors do the line breaking. These cos just a few dollars/euros each and the smallest you can find can cope with at least 16A; breaking amperage that is.
Those small grey ones are 20A versions and the GE Elfa one is a 25A silent version.
(wired just to get the PLC running and to get everything working like i want so don't cry about my wirings
)
Those small grey ones are 20A versions and the GE Elfa one is a 25A silent version.
(wired just to get the PLC running and to get everything working like i want so don't cry about my wirings
)
M
moses224
Yamaha - genius. you took the rebuild kit from htg and just mounted on panel. Am i reading that right?
BigWillyDee
Member
Hydropimp said:
no problem...i'll snap a pic tomorrow when i'm there...
Y
yamaha_1fan
moses224 said:
Yup. Worked out real well.
HydroPimp, depends on how you want to set it up. To duplicate mine, you need #10 wire, #14 wire, timers, grounding strips for panel, and ballasts.
Next setup, I would either use outlets and plugs, or wire the ballasts to a light switch. Someway to shut power off to each individual ballast. Probably plugs that way when working on it, you know for sure it is disconnected.
Right now I have 3 lights off cause the table is empty. The only way to do that is to remove a wire from the grounding block.
FYI: THE GROUNDING BLOCKS ARE USED FOR DISTRIBUTION. OBVIOUSLY I DONT HAVE 3 GROUNDS RUNNING THE BALLASTS
I didnt use plugs the first time due to cost. 240 outlets and plugs x9 was alot of money. but you can use 120 plugs and outlets to save money.
Also, some have criticized the board because supposedly the ballasts are not grounded. Not sure about that, I do have a grounding wire from each transformer back to a ground.
Another issue is heat. My ballasts are mounted directly to the plywood, but the plywood is spaced off the drywall with a 2x4 inbetween. SO I have a gap about 1.5 inches. Some have expressed concern over the heat on the plywood. It has not been an issue yet. I was lucky to have fire sprinklers already installed since this used to be a wood workshop. To relieve some of the heat, you could use some washers behind the ballast to make an air gap between the ballast and wood.
It could be a little neater but all those wires between the cap, ignitor, transformer are just a mess and a PITA to organize.
Not sure of the advantage of using a contactor versus the water heater timer. Well one advantage is the timers are easier to get. Otherwise there are many ways to accomplish the same goal.
Hope that helps.
