600 watt distance

[boseephus]

How high above the canopy should my 600 watt light be for a 2.5 x3ft. area?I have it at about 10 inches now.

 

[Skunkenstein]

A thermometer is you're best friend..you're hand works well too. If you're hand feels hot..so do you'r plants.AS close as you can get w/o burning.Most people have lights too close..

 

[JonBlaze]

Too close for what? If they are not burning, why would they be too close?

 

[Harpo]

boseephus,

That space is small for a 600. Your 600 would work nicely in a 40"x40" space. Even larger if you had a light mover. You could grow a lot more smoke with each grow in a larger grow with your lamp. You will not see much of an improvement in yield in your space with a 600 vs a 400.

Rule of thumb is to hold the back of your hand at the same height as the tops of your plants. If you can stand the heat for a minute and it doesn't burn you, then that height will usualy work. That is, if the rest of your grow is up to par.

Lots of ventilation into and out of your grow is needed, as well as, a fan blowing across the tops. A 65 cubic ft. per minute bathroom or kitchen exhaust fan works nicely in a larger grow. Your grow is so small for your lamp that you might need a larger exhaust fan.

I've used a 400 in a 16" x 30" grow. I hung aluminium foil off the lamp's reflector to extend it about six inches to act as a heat shield for the cabinett right next to the lamp.

 

[Lungus]

You may find that you'll need an air cooled light reflector to keep the heat down without moving so much air through there that your humidity plummets.

 

[Guest]

Hi Boseephus


Try keep temperature max 26C on highest bud.

With good ventilation 600w height is 50 - 60 cm.

Have good grow


C

 

[BudGood2006]

18 inches or so is usually decent, allows for a good spread of light. Your space is rather small for a 600...

 

[boseephus]

Thanks guys I have it at 10 inches above the canopy now. I guess I can't complain, just using a mini box fan to cool the lamp.

 

[magicbuds]

Heres a chart i got which should help. I cant seem to post it to here tho I dunno how but i-v managed to put it in member gallerie

 

[Guest]

You should click "go Advenced" and click your picture.

Picture path is that long number line.

Last click "Submit Reply"

It isn´t as difficult as it seems.

Good hear your proplem is solved.


C

 

[cabanetforester]

You might want to see this..

You might want to see this..

Lucas, the creator of the Lucas formula has posted a link to a very informational site created by his mentor PH.

It lists the optimum distances to place HID lights of various intensity (watts) from the plant canopy. In your case with the 600 watter I believe it's 12 inches.

Much thanks to Lucas and PH. The site/light page can been seen here>> http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/yor/lightres.htm

Good luck and have fun CF

 

[JJScorpio]

That is an awful lot of light for that area, but if everything is staying cool, the more power to you. As the others said, if it is not burning the plant and the temps are staying under 80, the buds wont be hurting for light.

 

[cabanetforester]

Hey JJScorpio,

The Lucas forumla is pretty well known amongst hydro growers.

This is the quote from the thread I read about Lucas and PH (the person).

"are you the lucas who made the hydro formula for GH nutes??

yes

but the truth is, it was not my idea, the credit belongs to my mentor, named pH

I took what pH learned about the 0-8-16 recipe working with ebb and flow, and applied it to Highgrades bubbler concept. Somebody at CW started reefering to the formula as the Lucas Formula, and the name stuck. It refers to 8ml Micro, plus 16ml Bloom as a one size fits all nutrient recipe for hydro.

Then GenHydro came out with the same mix in one bottle, called FloraNovaBloom... I have never met or worked with them, they just seem to have picked up on the chatter in the forums, and mixed their recipe to match the values of the 0-8-16 mix.

Now I use pH's spreadsheet to compare the different nutes people use..

here is a link to pH's website
http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/

thanks for making me feel welcome at icmag too!

take care
Lucas"

Did you check out the site I linked to? What do you think of it?

You can find the rest of the thread I quoted here ..http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=13384&page=1&pp=15

Pay no attention to the first post It's actually a pretty good read with lots of info on nutrient mixes from well established members of the IC community. Lucas starts posting on page 3.

Sorry for getting off topic folks, not trying to hijack or anything. Peace CF

 

[Reefer MAdness]

Right now my 600 watter is about 5 inches away from the canopy but i got an air cooled hood i could let em go right up and touch the glass if i wanted. Very worth the investment

 

[cabanetforester]

Here is an excerpt? from PH's site that I linked to. He also made an easy to read table but I cannot cut and paste it and it will not display correctly in HTML if I try to post it.

Available Light
Available light is the lumens available from your lamp to be distributed across your plant's canopy. It is not the light striking your canopy, which is measured in foot-candles (fc) at the canopy. Available light is a measure of lumens at the source, while foot-candles is a measure of lumens at the target. Between these two points light is lost to empty space or objects that don't reflect light, for the production minded indoor gardener that translates into lost growth and yield. Lamp-to-canopy distance and your choice of reflectivity preferences will ultimately determine the light your plants receive.

Because cannabis is a high energy sun plant most indoor cannabis gardens have the available light very tightly focused, more so than gardens used for conventional indoor produce (vegetables, herbs, etc). As a result, indoor fc levels approaching that of the most intense sunlight can be reached or exceeded by growers, but can damage plants if heat from the lamp doesn't do more damage first. The most light intensity plants are likely to see in nature is around 10,000 fc, and for only a couple of hours during the day while the sun is directly overhead. For artificially lit plants, above 9,000 fc is considered shaky ground by many indoor growers, either due to the potential for damaged growth or for the more watchful eye needed to prevent it.

The YOR uses Available Lumens per Square Foot as a measure for the average available light distributed across a space. While this does address the space's average lighting, it does not reflect the closest safe-point when dealing with real lamp-to-canopy distances, nor does it reflect the furthest distance at which light can be used effectively.

Distance and the Sweet Spot
Every top-lit indoor garden using artificial HID lighting has a sweet spot located directly under the lamp, where it's closest to the canopy. If not accounted for in your plans to distribute available light, fc in the sweet spot can far exceed that of the sun, especially when lamp cooling technologies are used to reduce normal distances limited by heat. Finding the limits of your coverage area implies a compromise between the minimum light levels at the outside edges of your area (furthest from the lamp) and the maximum light level at the sweet spot (closest safe-point to the lamp). The happy medium is not to overdose the sweet spot with too much light (or heat) and to distribute enough light to the outside edges of your grow space for acceptable growth. The controlling factor for both of these limits is the height of the lamp above the canopy. Reflective surfaces surrounding your garden will help reduce light losses at the outside edges, but light at and below the sweet spot is controlled by distance between it and the lamp. The table below gives an idea of the distances involved, fixtures used during the meter readings are common to indoor gardens.

I'm not saying it's the end all be all to lighting but it's good info IMHO. CF

 

[brooklyn]

bump!
peace to all, i'm a member of the 600 club now (cool tube) and have access to a grow space 6ftx2.5ftx6ft, would one 600 be able to penetrate a scrog type grow with the furthest point being 3ft away? what would be the best distance for maximum penetration?

peace!