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6 Step Program GUARANTEED to prevent premature / early flowering!!!

Every outdoor grower takes certain precautions to keep their plants from flowering once they've been placed outside.
The earlier they go outdoor, the greater the risk that this will happen. The 6 steps outlined here will make certain that,
whether they are Sativas or Indicas, clones, or even revegged plants [although for revegged plants the methods
I employ are slightly more indepth than the info I've provided here], when it's time to place your lovely ladies outside they'll
remain in the vegitative state growing leaves, not buds! I have quite a bit of experience in this area, and have been meaning
to make a contribution and introduction to the great ICMag community. So enjoy the list and don't hesitate to ask
any questions you may have regarding these procedures =) DB

*Edit - Quote: "[This] is generally good advice for growers in temperate regions only. Most of the steps are non-applicable in
tropical locations (20* above or below the equator)..." submitted by: rabid
*Edit - Young plants grown from seed may not require as much caution to prevent premature flowering as listed in this program.
Thank you: GrowersUnite, Dragunn, and Moondawg for pointing out this discrepancy


Step 1- Avoid starting your plants too early. In most cases, March is the earliest you'd want to take starts.

Step 2- Loosely match the light schedule they'll receive from the sun once they are outside. But avoid giving your girls anything less
that 17 hours of light[this ensures you'll meet the conditions of step 3].

Step 3- Make sure your plants are growing rapidly, and free of stress before moving them outside. In other words, maintain optimal
grow room conditions [ie: lighting, temperature, humidity, air flow, nutrients, ect.], transplant regularly to keep them from
getting pot bound, eliminate pests (especially spider mites), ect.

Step 4- Nitrogen. Simply put: It signals grow. Before, during and after the plants make their transition outside ensure they
receive plenty of Nitrogen.

Step 5- Provide your ladies with an outdoor location that recieves maximum light. Even shade from trees or nearby mountains
may prevent the plants from getting enough light in May or June to maintain a vegetative growth.

Step 6- Plants that are placed outside before the summer solstice will, in most cases, require supplemental lighting to maintain
rapid veg and prevent premature flowering. I've found it most effective to give them between 30-60 minutes of light,
depending on intensity, sometime during the night [I just set my timer to turn on at 12:00am for 30 minutes]to interrupt
the dark period.

Imo, Step 6 is the most important, followed by Step 3 and 1, then Step 4, Step 5, and lastly, Step 2.
 
Last edited:

GrowersUnite

Active member
I gave my plants, 14 hours of light since birth. no flowering for me and I put them out at almost 13 hours of light outside.
 
Hi FarmerJoe, thanks for the question. Please understand that this guide is geared towards growers that have experienced premature flowering and don't have a plan to combat it. No doubt, there are many different ways to prepare your plants to make their transition outside, and it sounds like you have found a system that works for the variables [location, genetics, ect] you encounter. But to the masses, moving clones and revegged plants from the accepted practice of a 24 hour light schedule to anything under 17 hours, is likely to trigger flowering. 18/6 light is optimal for achieving/maintaining rapid veg. growth.

Also the reason for starting the plants in March is because, in general, they grow quite fast in a room with optimal conditions, and one of the keys to preventing premature flowering is to maintain that growth. Starting the plants before March is possible given adequate space, lighting, as well as the ability to progressively transplant the them into larger pots to keep them from getting rootbound. But most growers, I assume, are going to be limited by one of these factors. For example, one year I started 12 plants at the begining of February for my outdoor crop. By the time April rolled around they required 1000 watts on a mover, and 10 gallon pots in order to maintain rapid growth. They stretched for light, and ended up having to be cut back in order to compensate.
 
Hi GrowersUnite, that's fantastic that you are able to achieve those kind of results!!! Are the plants you speak of grown from seed? Because a seedling will not flower under those conditions until it matures. But if it was germinated under those conditions, it's possible that it may require less light as an adult to maintain rapid growth in an indoor environment. In general though, any clone, or revegged plant will flower immediately after being put on that kind of a light schedule. There are exceptions though, and you may have found one!
 

GrowersUnite

Active member
Grown from seed, 4months veg still no flowering(currently 5 months old but outdoors). I took two clones and they did not flower under 14 either.

I'm currently on 12/12 with a clone and I'm hoping I see some good things so I can keep this strain as my own. Sprayed CS on the two lowest branches.
 

rabid

Member
That's generally good advice for growers in temperate regions only. You need to quantify that some/most of the steps are non-applicable in tropical locations (20* above or below the equator)...
 
Hi rabid, thanks for your suggestion. I had meant to state that, but somehow it got lost in the translation. You are absolutely correct, as growing on or near the equator is a completely different animal. I will edit my original posting to reflect that.
 

dragunn

Member
never had a plant pre-flower from seeds.plant in march, indoors 24/7.four weeks later 12/12.kill off most males(save a few for breeding).like to top,move outside in mid april.hit them with high dose of fox farm grow.off to the races.

clones i wait till june to move outside.
 

moondawg

Member
Hey Deliciousbuds.

Your advice is generally very good. I spent several years reading, researching and experimenting with cannabis and its flowering. Your advice is helpful and informative, but i would like to discuss a couple of issues in which i arrived at a bit differnent conclusion. Im always open to knowledge, so please share your thoughts on the matters.

The first issue i feel is lacking in the piece is the recognition of the major difference between clones and seed plants. Put simply, clones are sexually mature. Theyre sex is established and they only require the trigger of lighting decline to flower. Seed plants are a bit different and wont establish sexualtiy until the 4th to 6th week of growth under normal growing conditions. I found repeatedly over several years and every strain that the clone will flower much quicker with far less stimulation to do so. A clone will set flower in a heartbeat. Not so with a seed plant.

The second issue is one of daylength. Several years of experiments with dozens of plants and approx. 14 differnt varieties of cannabis resulted in a conclusion that hybrid cannabis flowers at 14.25 hrs of light. In my outdoor world, there is a simple rule: If daylength is below 14.25, CLONES will flower - every clone from every strain. That applies to indoor as well. If a grower cuts the lights back to 14.25 he will see flowers in 14 days. Try it. If you cut the lights to 14, floweing will begin - return to 15hrs and they will revege. Every strain i experimented with followed that rule.

Im at 38n. If i plant a clone prior to May 20, it will flower and theres nothing i can do to stop it. I can plant seed plants on May 1 without any negative effects or any attempt to flower.
 
Hi Dragunn and Moondawg, I appreciate your feedback. I agree that seedlings certainly have different characteristics than clones, but after 4-6 weeks of growing indoor, the seedling matures and is then susceptible to flowering. Still, even a seed grown plant seems less likely to flower than a clone, when placed outside in May. I concocted this thread with the intention of aiding inexperienced growers in their quest to pull off a successful grow, and the point you two have brought up is definitely worth recognizing. I'll edit the original post to acknowledge that.

You brought up a second issue, Moondawg, regarding daylength. In most cases, clones will flower at even 15 hours of light, especially when coming off a 24 hours light regimen, which is why I recommend keeping the light schedule above 17 hours. Allow me to illustrate the lighting technique I recommend in more detail.

While my girls are growing indoor, I loosely match the light schedule they'll be receiving from the sun once they are outside. I set the timer so that the lights turn on an hour before the sun rises on the Solstice, and turn off an hour after it sets. Here are the exact steps I took to accomplish this:
- I needed to know the sunrise and sunset times for the Summer Solstice [June 21st], so I went to the website: www.sunrisesunset.com/ and entered my zip code.
- Sunrise/Sunset = 5:35am/8:57pm.

Note: If you start your plants before March 11th, then you must account for Daylight Savings Time in order to accurately match the light schedule of the summer sun!

- So my light schedule before March 11th was:
Lights On / Lights off = 3:35am/8:57pm
- And my light schedule after March 11th was:
Lights on / Lights off = 4:35am/9:57pm

Note: In my case, the light comes on an hour earlier than sunrise, and stays on an hour after sunset to maintain an 18/6 light schedule. 18/6 is the sweet spot for rapid, vigorous growth.

On May 3rd, I moved my plants out into the greenhouse. That's a little earlier than I would normally do this, but my plants had filled up the grow room and weren't getting enough light. That is ok, though. The supplemental light that the plants receive between 12-12:30am is enough to prevent flowering, even though the daylength in my area today is 14 hrs 21min. Now, while they are in the greenhouse and receiving supplemental light, they are also acclimating to the outdoor environment. Most noteably, when the sun rises and when it sets. I've found that plants given 3-4 weeks in the greenhouse with supplemental lighting, can be placed outdoor w/o sup lighting much sooner than plants coming directly from an indoor grow room. I'm sure that it's because while they are in the greenhouse they are able to determine that the days are in fact getting longer, which helps signal them to grow.

Of course, hitting them with the higher levels of nitrogen helps that "signal" too, which is why I titled this thread as a program. I don't think any one of the steps will prevent spring flowering--except maybe the supplemental lighting. These guidelines should be used in conjunction with each other in order to avoid these problems.

Here are a few pics I took yesterday of my girls happily growing in the greenhouse. I also took a pic of the greenhouse when the lights came on last night as I was busy transplanting =)

2012greenhousenight.jpg


2012greenhouse600x800.jpg


greenhousenightwithligh.jpg
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
all my ladies are still indoors right now...but im reading about neighbors already planting. my hillside is northfacing so we only get like 14 or so hours of light now....so my main concern is preflowering.

i might throw a couple outside as testers to gauge this....

im thinking last week of may...
 

Cartel530

Member
Veteran
thats about how much light im at right now and i threw some granddaddy out.. pulled them back in after i saw hairs lol. def start out with the tester haha
 
Prop 215 - Being on the North side of the hillside could certainly be a big enough factor to trigger premature flowering. But I would certainly get them outside, with some supplemental lighting, because I'm sure that plants detect days getting longer, given a couple, few weeks, which signals them to vegitate. In my experience 6 23w fluorescent strung out over a 10' x 20' canopy for a couple of hours each night is enough to maintain rapid veg. Plus, the fluorescent light doesn't attract nearly the kind of attention that a hid light does--like the 1000 watter I'm running in my hoop house. But in any case Prop, and you too Cartel, pound em with Nitrogen a few days before you put them outside. Especially if they're coming straight from your grow room, and you can't provide them with supplemental light. Make sure they aren't rootbound, and POUND them with Nitrogen!
DB
 

OrganicBuds

Active member
Veteran
I got some GSC right now that are 3 feet tall and in need of being sent outdoors. They are vegging under 2 600's right now, and the light schedule is 5:30am to 10:30 right now. Was thinking of lowering the amount of light over the next couple weeks and putting them out mid may to early June. No supplemental lighting for me, but I don't think I will need it.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
^same exact plan as yours...my plants are just begging for some outdoor sun, if it wasnt such a pain in the ass i would even carry them outside and bring them back in. but im waiting for first week of june most likely..last few weeks of may gonna scale back light schedule by 2-3 hours and hit them with nitrogen foliar sprays..

a friend put his plants out a few weeks ago at a seperate grow in the flatlands where they get better light than my northslope, they are already preflowering....i told him that would happen but hey sometimes idiots gotta learn themselves..

im lucky to have a decent amount of veg space to dedicate to my outdoor starts..i got another round of 30-50 babies that im gonna put out a month after my 200 gals and do a quick run at a lower elevation on the slope, a guerilla garden on my own property lol. just wish i had more flat space to build an outdoor greenhouse, gotta invest in terracing next year.
 

NorcalBob

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
215, Instead of dropping the light back all of a sudden by 3 hours why not 1 a week? Maybe a little easier for the plants to digest without wanting to start throwing pistols.
 

KanadianKronik

Active member
hmmm being a gorilla guy, only so much of this is possible for me to do, I always plant around may 15th i get 14 hours and 41 minutes of light outside on that date. the only time i ever had plants prematurly bud was when i had them on 18 hours and put them out on that date. ever since, I have my timer set to 15 hours. also iv never babied my plants inside... i dont make sure the temp and humidity and what not is all perfect, they are going outside and i wont be able to help them out there, i realize that what your saying is to do that so that they can be super healthy and strong... but that way i see it, you get a flu shot to introduce the problem so your body is ready for it, so by not babying them i dont have to worry about them slowing down or dieing from the extreme change. just my way of doing things.
 

TLoft13

Member
I don't pamper my outdoor babies either. As soon as they leave the seedling stage they get full light, blasting air up to 24/7, and if possible i open windows or doors as often as possible to get them used to the cold. If they can't take it they have no business growing outdoors.

@DeliciousBuds, nice, concise thread, thanks and +rep!
 

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