4x8x7 box, no construction experience?!?

[In Vino Veritas]

what's up everyone!

i need to build a box that has the internal dimensions of 4'x8'x7'.. it doesn't have to be super-heavy duty - noise isn't a concern. all I need is a place to hang a pair of hoods and be able to control air flow and that it's light sealed.

i was thinking of building something based on Tick's SoGn box. maybe use 1x1 to build a frame and use 1/4th ply wood to wrap it up. no clue on how to make a door though?? or what materials??

fwiw, I'll probably be using a top feed rockwool slab set up, sea of green, lucas formula..

really what i need help in is building the box, i want it to be cheap, light-proof, and precise enough that I can control the air flow (negative pressure).

I was considering going with this, but it's damn pricey: http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=GRGL240&eq=&Tp (GrowLab GL240)

 

[K.J]

Take a look at my first grow journal, linked in my sig below. Our cab isn't exactly those dimensions, but it's similar and it does exactly what you're looking for (it was modeled after the NGB style boxes you can find plenty of threads on at IC). I don't provide step-by-step build instructions, but there is a materials list, dimensions, and lots of pictures.

 

[etinarcadiaego]

Hey man. My $.02, don't use 1 x 1's, these days they call that stuff "fir stripping" and it's not straight and usually will crack/split if a nail or screw is put through it. Use 1 x 2's or 2 x 4's.

Also I'd advice you use OSB rather than plywood. I don't want to start a debate, but plywood is a little more $$ (untreated) than OSB and they have similar strength issues. Neither can do "standing water" but I assume this won't matter. 1/4" plywood also "warps" more than OSB during prolonged exposure to high humidities (90% plus).

Anyways, for a door just use your wood frame as the door seal, and then make strips to go around the door frame so the door is flush with the frame when closed. Use 3" hinges (Dont go by the weights listed on the hinges . . . ) and use exterior grade screws. And have plans in hand before you even buy the wood, thats huge. Plans make it easy. No plans tends to lead to wasted wood/hardware . . .

Here is how i did my door:

 

[In Vino Veritas]

etinarcadiaego: there is a bit of a gap on that frame.. you used some weather stripping? i'm wondering how you keep the light from leaking still.

 

[etinarcadiaego]

No gaps, it's just looks like a gap is there because I mounted the hinges flat on the doors and the trim, so with the door open . . .

The 2 x 4's you see inside the door frame are there exclusively to allow me to create a flat surface to so I can keep the cab airtight, but the concept works for light-tight too.

I do use weather stripping though, as you can kind of see in this shot:

I use the 3/8" Rubber Weather Seal, two strips, but I needed my cab to be airtight so one will do for light. Also, I use hasps to close the doors, way way easier than bar-type mechanisms, and mounts with just 6 little screws.

 

[In Vino Veritas]

No gaps, it's just looks like a gap is there because I mounted the hinges flat on the doors and the trim, so with the door open . . .

The 2 x 4's you see inside the door frame are there exclusively to allow me to create a flat surface to so I can keep the cab airtight, but the concept works for light-tight too.

I do use weather stripping though, as you can kind of see in this shot:

I use the 3/8" Rubber Weather Seal, two strips, but I needed my cab to be airtight so one will do for light. Also, I use hasps to close the doors, way way easier than bar-type mechanisms, and mounts with just 6 little screws.

now it makes perfect sense! thanks!

 

[cellardweller]

yup, use 2x3's for framing.
I used 3/8' sheathing and piano hinges for my doors and ended up screwing the left one shut.. the right side door warped a little bit, but I have weatherstripping in place, barrel locks and a heavy blanket over the doors. There are no leaks. If i would have known, I would have used a heavier wood for my doors..maybe 1/2" plywood.

 

[masterKahn]

I just built a small 2'x2'x2' cube and would recommend some hefty support wood like 2x4 I used small 1x2's and ended up with some split wood and alot of issues. Just make sure you plan everything out well and have the right tools.

I ended up with a box but not as airtight as I wanted do to lack of experience with wood.

 

[toastfighter2]

Here is a tip for everyone that is going to build there own box that virtually eliminates all wood splitting problems. The big tip of the day is to PREDRILL YOUR HOLES. It only takes a few minutes extra by the time you are done, but it is how the pro's do it(you don't see a lot of cracked pieces in your kitchen cabinets). As for a door, if you don't think that you are that handy, pick up some black tarp, and a zipper door kit from the hydro shop.

 

[magiccannabus]

I agree on predrilling the holes. Just use a bit no larger than half the diameter of the screw hole. It's ok to estimate on that front.

Also, make sure you buy VERY straight lumber. Go to the hardware store and find a level in the hardware department. Take that with you over to the lumber. Even if you don't need a level, just use one for a few minutes. Even experienced carpenters have trouble with warped lumber fucking up projects, but a newbie is going to be in trouble, especially on a cabinet that big.

I recommend screws. I HATE NAILS. I can't emphasize enough how much nails suck. Screws hold better and you can take it all apart much faster and with less damage. Chances are, after you get it together, you're going to need to redo something. So spend the little bit extra and get some screws!

 

[In Vino Veritas]

lots of good info here everyone, thanks!

 

[masterKahn]

I pre drilled holes on my box and it helped ALOT, but because of the size of the wood and using nails I shouldn't have I still split wood. Lets just say I learned alot about wood the hard way.

Also a good solid wood glue does wonders for mistakes.

BTW etinarcadiaego that is a very nice grow box!

 

[toastfighter2]

If you don't ever want any of it to come apart ever, and you have a set of clamps, check out gorilla glue. I stuck two 2*4's together with that stuff, and once it was hardened, the wood around it broke away, and the glue was still holding. Also, wear rubber gloves when you work with this stuff, it is nearly impossible to get off of you skin(not like how super glue
makes your fingers stick together, but more like pine tar).

 

[PharmaCan]

If you really want a super-good door, go to a home improvement store and buy a cheap ($20) door and some jamb and some 1'x2' for stop on all four sides and cut the bottom off the door, then fill the gap in the bottom of the door with wood - glued in, then hang the door in your opening and you have an air/light-proof opening. Any piece of wood you use to make a door of is going to warp. If hanging a door is above your skillset, get some panda plastic and a zipper or velcro door kit.

If you take a nail and give it a medium whack on the pointed end with your hammer, the nail will then not split wood. Don't get all carried away - all you want to do is flatten the point a little.

Just my $.02. Good luck with your project!

PC

 

[ft100]

really the easiest route to go is to buy the growlab 120L. its dimensions are exactly what you are looking for and it is ready in minutes to hang all your eqipment etc. forget drilling, planning, nailing, all the other bs and pony up and buy the pre made unit. the money is not even an issue compared to the buds that can come out of this. I run the 120l and it is doing me right. good luck. peace and smoke.

 

[In Vino Veritas]

thanks everyon, ft100 hit the nail on the head.. I would be better off buying a tent given my limited skill sets.

PharmaCan, why cut the bottom off the door?? im confused.. this is actually how i did my last closet...I just had a door custom built for the frame of the sliding doors and just use some splints to even it out and screwed it up and threw a door frame..

I no longer have a need to construct a box this size, I have an outdoor closet I plan to use instead. It's only enough for one 1k but it will do for now and it a lot stealthier than having a giant box or tent in the middle of bedroom - real wood floors or not. lol..

we should have more info on how to frame and hang doors.. im not inept but without the experience i rely heavily on how people document their experiences and how they DIY..