3LB's Molasses - The Miracle Addative

[C21H30O2]

are you guys using 1 tbsp or 1 tsp per gallon?

 

[maryjohn]

Does a normal grocery store have the kind of molasses I need? Or do I have to order it?

Also, is there molasses that shouldnt be used?

OPT

this is a function of geography. in the northeast USA blasckstrap can be hard to come by. I know in the south it's easy, but I'm not sure about the rest. You will see unsulphured organic molasses, but the grade is higher and it isn't as good. You may need to find a specialty store, like a certain fancy food market or a health place.

I use plantation brand black strap, but I have to go to a specific place for it.

 

[OPT]

Found some Grandma's old fashioned molasses or some shit like that at Walmart!

OPT

 

[Ghostwolf]

I just found my old favorite brand at the grocery store. "Slow As", I was thinking they didn't make it any more. Just good ole black strap.

 

[maryjohn]

Found some Grandma's old fashioned molasses or some shit like that at Walmart!

OPT

That's exactly what I meant. The wal mart molasses is not blackstrap. It's a higher grade. It works but is not as good.

 

[OPT]

O well, it only cost 2 bucks, maybe I can look at some other places. The best thing says "Blackstrap" from the sounds of it, if I can't find any, then i'll just use what i got. If I can find a different brand then hell, make some molasses cookies for the kids maybe!

OPT

 

[maryjohn]

I have used it before, it's still fine. You may run into blackstrap some day, and then you can get some.

 

[Ghostwolf]

You can also search the health food stores as well. About the same price as the food store, but they're brands you've never heard of. "Brer Rabbit" is another good old brand name found in the grocery store.

 

[LazerHaze360]

I picked up a jar of House of Herbs brand blackstrap molasses and the labeling doesn't say unsulphered anywhere, soo im guessing its sulphered. Also, the iron content is listed as 70%. Is this possible or is this a typo?
Im thinking I shouldn't use this blackstrap because it's not unsulphered....?

 

[Ghostwolf]

I picked up a jar of House of Herbs brand blackstrap molasses and the labeling doesn't say unsulphered anywhere, soo I'm guessing its sulphered. Also, the iron content is listed as 70%. Is this possible or is this a typo?
I'm thinking I shouldn't use this blackstrap because it's not unsulphered....?

It'll be OK. Some folks get the animal feed type of molasses from the feed store and use that it and works just fine.

 

[informeldahyde]

I was always taught and have read in several reputable grow manuals to use unsulphered molasses. What is the advantage to using blackstrap?

 

[maryjohn]

blackstrap can be unsulfured. I have never seen it sulfured.

it has nothing to do with sulfur, blackstrap is a grade. The lowest one, I think.

 

[ScrubNinja]

blackstrap molasses is the best choice because it contains the greatest concentration of sulfur, iron and micronutrients from the original cane material.

See post #1

 

[maryjohn]

Yeah scrub, that's the ticket. But containing sulfur is not the same as having it added as a preservative.

 

[staff11]

If you have a local Whole Foods or another health food/organic store they should have the Brer Rabbit brand. (this is in the Midwest)

 

[staff11]

......

 

[whiterasta]

Sulphured molasses make an excellent foliar spray when pH neutralized.
The sulphur is excellent at preventing mold and mildew on O/D plants.
Mixed lightly (~2teaspoons/gal) it is rapidly absorbed but persistant on the leaf. Pests dislike the spray especially brewed with capiscum and as I said the sulphur helps prevent powder mildew and rot when applied with restraint. excess will leave sugars and encourage rot while conservative application prevents it.
This mix I use as a foliar for O/D in mold prone oregon
1gal R/O water
2teaspoons sulphured mollasses
1/8 cup cayenne flakes
2drops dish soap

Boil first three ingredients and strain well till nearly clear. Cool and add soap.
Spray in the AM after the dew has left to cover without drenching.
This has no affect on beneficial predators like wasps but sucking insects do not like it and molds hate it.
sprayed within a week of harvest it leaves no detectable residues and is completely safe.
Hope this helps somebody
WR

 

[whiterasta]

GD, your info is great but seriously people that have been growing for years have used mollasses, it's not insanity, it gets results so therefore people keep using it. I like your posts as they are very informative, but it's in my experience my plants do better with it then without.

I have used molasses with great result for many years. I never did buy the whole "carb source bullshit" as the plant makes its carbs in the leaf.
What I do know is it is a monster nutrient for beneficial soil organisms.
I am a religious believer in live soils with healthy thriving micro-organisms that directly feed the root hair of the plant.
I have my doubts about the bio-availability of raw mollases to the root zone ( not about foliar feeding though)what I have no doubts about is the fact that mollases will increase the number of said organisms in the root zone thus making more food available to the plant directly via symbiotic exchange in the root hair.
Dry molasses is one of the ingredients of my soils along with a commercial myco-inoculant and two mycorhyzoidal mushrooms, Oregon White truffel and Chanterelle. The soil is cultured at 65-75F for a couple weeks then is ready for use needing very little additional ferts until bloom is well under way.
WR

 

[maryjohn]

oregon white truffle and chanterelle - they are symbiotic with MJ?

 

[whiterasta]

oregon white truffle and chanterelle - they are symbiotic with MJ?

They are mycorhyzoidal secondary decomposers. They will form intersections with almost any root system and produce nutes directly at the root hair mycorhyzae junction. They however will not fruit unless they have the correct root system. since fruiting is unnecessary in this situation they are there for there symbiotic connecion to the root hairs.
WR