i think that'll be enough time.
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2015 Yogurt Cup Grow Contest
- Thread starter Avinash.miles
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HarvestMoon303
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the yellowing is beginning to chaff my butt. got me trying everything I could think up to turn her around. particularly, I foliar fed with a balanced nutrient..finally I ended up extracting her from the cup and dissolving the rootball in water to reduce size. I then repotted with sunshine #4 and applied foxfarms 3part to no avail. she is still alive (barely) and producing flowers, but will never raise any bars.
sad to see, yes?
the other two girls are better off but not by much.
my choice of medium has bitten me in the ass.
and now I have to relearn how to use salts...
boohoo
lol
so much trouble for three grams of flowers !
rock on.
sad to see, yes?
the other two girls are better off but not by much.
my choice of medium has bitten me in the ass.
and now I have to relearn how to use salts...
boohoo
lolso much trouble for three grams of flowers !
rock on.
That's some serious deficiency... why did you wait so long?
What is it, sulphur and/or nitrogen? I have no experience with sulphur but nitrogen is remedied quite quickly for example with foliar urea.
What is it, sulphur and/or nitrogen? I have no experience with sulphur but nitrogen is remedied quite quickly for example with foliar urea.
try magnesium first, then nitrogen a little at a time. but i'm sure it's mag.
nah the whole plant will turn pale with nitrogen and have a general pale green look to it, but the same thing can be triggered by not enough mag. the real tell is to look at the leaves. they both turn yellow in both instances, but with nitrogen primarily being the factor the leaves will turn brown starting at the tips and have shriveled by the time the whole leaf is solid yellow like that. with magnesium it looks similar but the leaves stay on for a while even after they turn all yellow depending on how much nitrogen they have. without enough nitrogen the leaves fall off with light pressure, with mag masking it they stay on longer. increase mag and nitrogen def goes away.
At first, I was thinking about magnesium too but in case of magnesium, it isn't that uniform over the whole leaves, starts really with the old leaves and 'works' its way up the plant, and leaves finally become white.
With sulphur though... it's nearly the whole plant yellowing up and the sings are like in the first picture.
At least we can agree that these plants really need help (and can be helped).
With sulphur though... it's nearly the whole plant yellowing up and the sings are like in the first picture.
At least we can agree that these plants really need help (and can be helped).
I have a similar problem with one of my Spyders, it's pale green and losing leaves fast. I started bottom feeding all the yogi plants, but I'm thinking the nutrient ratios are all wrong for plants that are soaking in nutrient solution instead of getting top fed DTW.
I sprayed all the plants with seaweed extract and General Organics Urtica.
I sprayed all the plants with seaweed extract and General Organics Urtica.
Soakin the plants or keeping them in a nutrient solution constantly I don't think is the best idea because then you are inviting root rot to become a factor I mean unless you are letting them dry sometimes. Me personally I would cycle them wet and dry but not to dry especially in flower.
Trichrider Looking at your plant I would definitley say it's a mag defiency with the purpling stems and all... I would get some Epsom salts and some nutes that has everything in it. I would dissolve the Epsom salts first then add your nutes to it and foliar feed with lights and fans off so the plant can absorb it better. I personally in that state would foliar feed 2x a day morning and night until it clears up. You can ofcourse foliar feed with lights on but I find when lights are off the plants rebound faster because the solution that u spray on them doesn't dry off so fast. But in this case foliar when you can to try to help the plant.
Trichrider Looking at your plant I would definitley say it's a mag defiency with the purpling stems and all... I would get some Epsom salts and some nutes that has everything in it. I would dissolve the Epsom salts first then add your nutes to it and foliar feed with lights and fans off so the plant can absorb it better. I personally in that state would foliar feed 2x a day morning and night until it clears up. You can ofcourse foliar feed with lights on but I find when lights are off the plants rebound faster because the solution that u spray on them doesn't dry off so fast. But in this case foliar when you can to try to help the plant.
Epsom salt is a good choice because its magnesium sulphate. That way, you have both, magnesium and sulphur.
But it's not really available to leaves and watering with it is way more efficient. Alternatively, use (not replace) additional magnesium nitrate for foliar; this is readily available and brings nitrogen with it. Such a combination would give your plant every one of the three nutrients it might be lacking
.
But it's not really available to leaves and watering with it is way more efficient. Alternatively, use (not replace) additional magnesium nitrate for foliar; this is readily available and brings nitrogen with it. Such a combination would give your plant every one of the three nutrients it might be lacking
.
Sweet didn't know that but it seems to work when I foliar my chem D which is known to be a mag whore. I'll have to try it out in just the root zone and see if that clears it up faster.
I always foliar with Epsom salts but I let dissolve first before I ever spray and I also use a all purpose plant food mixed with it to cure defiencys and seems to work everytime.
But thanks for the tips ornamentals I'll have to see if Epsom in the root zone is a better option.
I always foliar with Epsom salts but I let dissolve first before I ever spray and I also use a all purpose plant food mixed with it to cure defiencys and seems to work everytime.
But thanks for the tips ornamentals I'll have to see if Epsom in the root zone is a better option.
Foliar nutrients need to be liquid to become plant available because the liquid has to flow through the stoma; usually, it can not penetrate the cuticle. Because of that, salts which are so highly hygroscopic that they become liquid at a reasonably low relative humidity (they dissolve in the water they abstract from air) work a lot better than others which do so only at elevated RH (most sulphates and phosphates need >90% RH). Calcium and magnesium as chloride (which isn't the best choice for plants but work very well) or nitrate (not as hygroscopic) salts have a deliquescence point (RH above which they become liquid) around or below average RH.
One way to circumvent crystallisation and/or drying of a foliar spray is by adding urea or glycerol (both shouldn't be used above 0.5-1%) or other humectants.
Another is to either re-spray with water (like you do) or boosting up RH to near saturation (electrical circuits love that ).
There's a whole bunch of scientific literature on this subject: Why Epsom salt still works against deficiencies is simple: it doesn't need much to cut the worst symptoms. But it's not good enough as fertiliser. Magnesium being highly mobile in plants makes its use in soil applications very efficient and maybe as fast as foliar application. Immobile nutrients and such needed only in traces such as micro-nutrients may be more effective against severe toxicity when used as foliar directly on the affected plant parts.
One way to circumvent crystallisation and/or drying of a foliar spray is by adding urea or glycerol (both shouldn't be used above 0.5-1%) or other humectants.
Another is to either re-spray with water (like you do) or boosting up RH to near saturation (electrical circuits love that
).There's a whole bunch of scientific literature on this subject: Why Epsom salt still works against deficiencies is simple: it doesn't need much to cut the worst symptoms. But it's not good enough as fertiliser. Magnesium being highly mobile in plants makes its use in soil applications very efficient and maybe as fast as foliar application. Immobile nutrients and such needed only in traces such as micro-nutrients may be more effective against severe toxicity when used as foliar directly on the affected plant parts.
thanks all for your advice. I tried cal-mag first. magnesium sulfate second (as foliar) as well as synthetic nutrients then changed her shoes.
she was burned pretty good by something I did, the other two got same same and are yellowed but not burned.
i'm not too bummed...that's a six ounce cup, they're used to six gallons.
could the worm castings be causing the lockout? I harvested them just before start of challenge...just curious now 'cuz she's no longer in 'em (castings).
she was burned pretty good by something I did, the other two got same same and are yellowed but not burned.
i'm not too bummed...that's a six ounce cup, they're used to six gallons.
could the worm castings be causing the lockout? I harvested them just before start of challenge...just curious now 'cuz she's no longer in 'em (castings).
Could be... I did the mistake of using soil too rich in organic matter and got 'complete lockout' cause the microbes fed everything away. That cost me easily two weeks of growth.
Garuda, are you feeding with the blumats or just running water?
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