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2000w to much?
- Thread starter LifeCycle
- Start date
Y
yamaha_1fan
10x10 growing area?
2,000 watts is not nearly enough 5-6K is right
I believe wattage divided by sq footage gives watts per sq foot.
2000/100= 20watts per square foot. You should be at least 50 I believe, maybe higher
2,000 watts is not nearly enough 5-6K is right
I believe wattage divided by sq footage gives watts per sq foot.
2000/100= 20watts per square foot. You should be at least 50 I believe, maybe higher
D
Delta Force
Well if you are trying to FILL the room then Yamaha is right but I have a large room/workspace and have between 200-2600 watts in there. Lots of room for me to walk around and move them around when I work. But if you are tryin to go big or go home and are just referring to your lighting footprint then you need more light to be gettin good yields and such. My plants only cover about 40 square feet tops and lights are on movers.
Y
yamaha_1fan
Delta is right, how big of a grow area? If the room is 10x10, then figure what type of system, how much walking room you need etc. Then calculate wattage by grow sq footage.
Remember, a 1k is good for a 4x4 area, maybe 5x5 depending on hood etc. On mine, 4 foot is max
Remember, a 1k is good for a 4x4 area, maybe 5x5 depending on hood etc. On mine, 4 foot is max
i have 2400w in a 6'x6' flower room.
cut your room in half mang.
your falling way short on W/ft2
cut your room in half mang.
your falling way short on W/ft2
G
Guest
Max those lights are gonna cover is a 5' x 10' canopy. I've run a 1000 over a 5' x 5' space and all was good. I dunno LifeCycle...trying to cover a 5' x 10' space with 1 1000 watt on a mover is pushing it a bit but not much experience there but if anything you'd need movers to try and cover a 10' x 10' space with only 2000 watts.
Y
yamaha_1fan
LifeCycle said:
add more lights.
D
Delta Force
Yeah most would but 2 1ks on that each side or 3 600's and movers are a good idea regardless IMO. Closer to the canopy with no burning and giving lots of angles of light. Super good shit movers are........says yoda. Just make sure 50watts per ft/sq minimum. 60 is def better but 50 is good. I believe a good umbrella hood will cover 5x5 np with a 1k. No more but will do it ok. Really depends on style of grow too tho. Tall trees or low bush ya know.
Delta Force said:
So, yoda, if your using light movers, can't you increase the size of your grow area by a certain percentage because you are moving the lights? Let's say you had 100 sq. ft and (ignoring effective footprints for awhile here) 5k of lights. With movers, could you cut that down to say 4k and move the lights around or would you stay with 5k and move that around?
...hope this question makes sense, I'm a tad buzzed right now.
PC
250wscrogger
Active member
Just run the 2 1000's either stationary over a 4x8 scrog for 62w per sqft or 4x12 if you have light movers. 
2000w over a 4x12 may seem a bit on the low side for wattage per sq ft but as a rule of thumb anything over 40w per sq ft is straight with movers.
2000w over a 4x12 may seem a bit on the low side for wattage per sq ft but as a rule of thumb anything over 40w per sq ft is straight with movers.
G
Guest
LifeCycle said:
Lets crunch some numbers: His 2000W x 3.4btu/W=6,800 btu's of heat generated per hour.
5000W x 3.4btu/W= 17,000 btu's of heat generated per hour.
6000W x 3.4btu/W=20,400 btu's of heat generated per hour.
It will take a substantial investment in intake air, exhaust air, air filtering and above all AIR CONDITIONING. If he resides in a part of the country where summer temps can exceed 100F, heat infiltration will have to be added to the cooling equation.
Next item, use YamahaFan's electricity cost factors X your rate per kilowatt hour. The Electric meter could really pick up speed.
The 10 x 12 area of the grow room I am building has 4 x 600W and the Veg-Babies room has 900W worth of lighting (1 x 600W and 1 6 tube t5 floro). We could have certainly built it heavier on the watts and yield BUT explain away a Whopper Electric bill, Safety First was the clients call.
I hope this helps you make a decision that will serve your needs well, and give you peace of mind (safety).
TyStik
PS: The 6000W grow, or the others for that matter, do not include other power consuming-heat generating equipment in the room AND with all calcs figured can you imagine the dinero that whopper AC unit is going to cost AND the cost of running that power hungry beast.
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D
Delta Force
i tend to think a mover will add about 20% of light-able space without degrading. No science or crazy math. I just go by results. I like to use the movers only to extend the grow area a little when I need to. I'll start with 30 plant and then need to add 10 or 20 so I'll put the lights on the movers and lower them. So although I may have taken a little of each plants direct light now all atleast get some and its higher intensity. I put them 14 inches or even 12 when on the mover. No hot spots. I just do trial and error and kinda look at the ladies and see if its too shady anywhere. I also fluctuate my room from 1k to 2k to 2k and a 600w when I need to. Always adjusting to maximize my veg and flower chamber depending on needs. Never the same requirement for me.PharmaCan said:So, yoda, if your using light movers, can't you increase the size of your grow area by a certain percentage because you are moving the lights? Let's say you had 100 sq. ft and (ignoring effective footprints for awhile here) 5k of lights. With movers, could you cut that down to say 4k and move the lights around or would you stay with 5k and move that around?
...hope this question makes sense, I'm a tad buzzed right now.
PC
