Looking good! Best of luck with the rest of the grow, piosh.
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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......
- Thread starter Pipedream
- Start date
fruitybudz
New member
new to site and 150 club!!
new to site and 150 club!!
xxxxxx
new to site and 150 club!!
xxxxxx
fruitybudz
New member
xxxxxxx
hi guys
hi guys
Hi guys sorry for last post.
new grower started last year and ive fail many times got a crop 2 months ago no clue strain but ive got 3 more same plant 3 days in budding.
im using (2) 150 hps watts and (2)t8 overdriven 6500k overkill?
growing 3 plants i think there withe widow and 1 orange bud hope she's a girl its 4 times i got males only had 5 seeds
amazing thread so much info
hi guys
Hi guys sorry for last post.
new grower started last year and ive fail many times got a crop 2 months ago no clue strain but ive got 3 more same plant 3 days in budding.
im using (2) 150 hps watts and (2)t8 overdriven 6500k overkill?
growing 3 plants i think there withe widow and 1 orange bud hope she's a girl its 4 times i got males only had 5 seeds
amazing thread so much info
G
grumblez
Happy 4-20 everyone! Hope you all get higher than normal today....
P
~pHaNtOm~
Merlin's Magic - 27 days flower and still getting bigger.
P
~pHaNtOm~
how do you plan on having any room to flower ?
seems that they are already busting out the roof !?
Yeah, I've got lot's of preflowers (a single calyx per node) but no buds atm. I thought the AG mom only took 12 weeks to mature but I'm starting to wonder.
You're right, it's a real mess. I'm counting on the plant growth to stall as the bud growth increases. If plant growth continues longer then expected I'm screwed. It's not easy to see in the pic but the stalks have been trained in an S shape and the tallest side branches are lashed over. Worst case scenario, I'll have to cull the tallest side branching if the plants continue to grow throughout flower.
A 150 has a very limited range of penetration. It is not that lights actually penetrate anything, I mean it is obvious that a big leaf will block the light from a 1000 the same as it would from a 150. It is just that the diffused light that comes from the higher energy bulbs can actually do some good after bouncing off of other things, where as the 150 is very little energy, and it's bounced light does very little good deep into the canopy.
So, when we use 150's, IMO we need to be thinking about plant management if we want to see the best performance.
A scrog definitely fits the 150 because it evens out the canopy so that the diffused light is not as badly needed, and the buds deal with the direct energy of the lamp.
I want to show you a similar method to manage a long vegged plant so it will perform and not get away from you and overtake your grow area.
This is a cross from Grapepunched (OGbubblegum (BOGbubbleS1)x BOG SBBX4)
It has been vegging for around 140 days or so in these shots.
It has some nice growth on it, and the vegetation is very thick due to it being trained heavily since very early on. I start tying them down as soon as the first five finger leaf is out.
It can be tedious work keeping up with low stress training, but it is usually well worth the effort. Nothing stimulates explosive new growth more than forcing the largest branches down.
The problem is, if I want to run this plant in a 150 box, it will be lots of wasted effort because the small light just isn't going to cope with such a thick growth and get much more than wispy popcorn.
So, I take the plant that was being trained LST style, let loose all her binds and place her in a ScroG situation.
It's all a matter of area management!
Now, this plant has just been transplanted from the small pot to a flower box of coco. Roots will fill both sides of the box by the end.
It was just placed in 12/12 under the screen. Box is like 18" x 22" x 24"tall, From light to screen is 8"
Now here's the thing...
I will basically take care of it as a scrog until flowering sets and stretch is basically over, then I will remove the screen all together. I will not trim the lower growth as you would for a scrog, I will let her all flower. It should resemble a scrog canopy when finished, but I will have not blocked all the light that the screen blocks, plus the majority of sites that bud will be of similar size, like if the screen was kept in place. I want to get that screen out as soon as I can so the plant can get as much of that precious energy as it can. I am really only using it to force the canopy shape while flowering sets.
I'll post back in a few to show progress.
*edit
Notice how my flower box is drilled and ready for LST.
You can always continue to use ties to control the branching instead of a screen like I did with these two a year or so ago.
So, when we use 150's, IMO we need to be thinking about plant management if we want to see the best performance.
A scrog definitely fits the 150 because it evens out the canopy so that the diffused light is not as badly needed, and the buds deal with the direct energy of the lamp.
I want to show you a similar method to manage a long vegged plant so it will perform and not get away from you and overtake your grow area.
This is a cross from Grapepunched (OGbubblegum (BOGbubbleS1)x BOG SBBX4)
It has been vegging for around 140 days or so in these shots.
It has some nice growth on it, and the vegetation is very thick due to it being trained heavily since very early on. I start tying them down as soon as the first five finger leaf is out.
It can be tedious work keeping up with low stress training, but it is usually well worth the effort. Nothing stimulates explosive new growth more than forcing the largest branches down.
The problem is, if I want to run this plant in a 150 box, it will be lots of wasted effort because the small light just isn't going to cope with such a thick growth and get much more than wispy popcorn.
So, I take the plant that was being trained LST style, let loose all her binds and place her in a ScroG situation.
It's all a matter of area management!
Now, this plant has just been transplanted from the small pot to a flower box of coco. Roots will fill both sides of the box by the end.
It was just placed in 12/12 under the screen. Box is like 18" x 22" x 24"tall, From light to screen is 8"
Now here's the thing...
I will basically take care of it as a scrog until flowering sets and stretch is basically over, then I will remove the screen all together. I will not trim the lower growth as you would for a scrog, I will let her all flower. It should resemble a scrog canopy when finished, but I will have not blocked all the light that the screen blocks, plus the majority of sites that bud will be of similar size, like if the screen was kept in place. I want to get that screen out as soon as I can so the plant can get as much of that precious energy as it can. I am really only using it to force the canopy shape while flowering sets.
I'll post back in a few to show progress.
*edit
Notice how my flower box is drilled and ready for LST.
You can always continue to use ties to control the branching instead of a screen like I did with these two a year or so ago.
Last edited:
Kind of like this?
Nice style, hoosierdaddy. Looks like you'll have a good yield. My space is about the same size as yours, I'll let you know what this one does for comparison. I'll have to find out how long it takes to flower though, a 20 week sativa wouldn't be fair.I want to show you a similar method to manage a long vegged plant so it will perform and not get away from you and overtake your grow area.
This is a cross from Grapepunched (OGbubblegum (BOGbubbleS1)x BOG SBBX4)
It has been vegging for around 140 days or so in these shots.
It has some nice growth on it, and the vegetation is very thick due to it being trained heavily since very early on. I start tying them down as soon as the first five finger leaf is out.
It can be tedious work keeping up with low stress training, but it is usually well worth the effort. Nothing stimulates explosive new growth more than forcing the largest branches down.
The problem is, if I want to run this plant in a 150 box, it will be lots of wasted effort because the small light just isn't going to cope with such a thick growth and get much more than wispy popcorn.
So, I take the plant that was being trained LST style, let loose all her binds and place her in a ScroG situation.
It's all a matter of area management!
Now, this plant has just been transplanted from the small pot to a flower box of coco. Roots will fill both sides of the box by the end.
It was just placed in 12/12 under the screen. Box is like 18" x 22" x 24"tall, From light to screen is 8"
Now here's the thing...
I will basically take care of it as a scrog until flowering sets and stretch is basically over, then I will remove the screen all together. I will not trim the lower growth as you would for a scrog, I will let her all flower. It should resemble a scrog canopy when finished, but I will have not blocked all the light that the screen blocks, plus the majority of sites that bud will be of similar size, like if the screen was kept in place. I want to get that screen out as soon as I can so the plant can get as much of that precious energy as it can. I am really only using it to force the canopy shape while flowering sets.
I'll post back in a few to show progress.
You're right though, too many tops means scrawny growth just below the tips. Lashing the tops down isn't a pain in the ass. Guessing whether they're all needed for best yield is the hard part.
G
grumblez
20 week sativa? OMG. I got this sativa problem in my grow area...you see....lol.....
the hairs are turning brown on mine (15 percent), yet the trich production seems lower than I would want...I am at around 8 or 9 weeks on it...I guess it will stay in the room until it croaks or gives me some sugar, dammit. I sure as hell hope 20 weeks is not on the agenda. These buds are plentiful, if not frosty.
I been suppercropping my plants to level out the canopy this run and it worked quite well....no screen needed, but with screen like effects.
I let a couple of plants go (my chemdd for instance) and it can turn out fine it you top and the plant does not go hog wild on you....but engineering the canopy is the best way to go. I topped my sativa and she still took off like a bat out of hell...now she is stretched across the room horizontally with the colas starting to climb up the walls they ran into. If I would have pinched her I am not sure she would benefited, but for indicas for sure this technique is a winner.
I cut the N completely and have been giving nothing but H20 to bring on the finish...
/me crosses fingers, prays to the thc gods for some crystals.
w00t.
TGIF folks!
the hairs are turning brown on mine (15 percent), yet the trich production seems lower than I would want...I am at around 8 or 9 weeks on it...I guess it will stay in the room until it croaks or gives me some sugar, dammit. I sure as hell hope 20 weeks is not on the agenda. These buds are plentiful, if not frosty.
I been suppercropping my plants to level out the canopy this run and it worked quite well....no screen needed, but with screen like effects.
I let a couple of plants go (my chemdd for instance) and it can turn out fine it you top and the plant does not go hog wild on you....but engineering the canopy is the best way to go. I topped my sativa and she still took off like a bat out of hell...now she is stretched across the room horizontally with the colas starting to climb up the walls they ran into. If I would have pinched her I am not sure she would benefited, but for indicas for sure this technique is a winner.
I cut the N completely and have been giving nothing but H20 to bring on the finish...
/me crosses fingers, prays to the thc gods for some crystals.
w00t.
TGIF folks!
Just minutes ago I heard a strange noise coming near the cab and it was coming from my econnolight ballast unit. I peaked into the cab and the bulb was on, but it was a fraction of the normal intensity and the color was an intense orange. I don't know what to make of this for the moment, fuck.
Took the ballast apart and the outside was pretty damn hot though I can't really remember what it was like normally. No signs or smells that anything burned up. A new bulb is $25 locally so I suppose Ill go pick one up in hopes my ballast is okay.
Took the ballast apart and the outside was pretty damn hot though I can't really remember what it was like normally. No signs or smells that anything burned up. A new bulb is $25 locally so I suppose Ill go pick one up in hopes my ballast is okay.
Sometimes when the power surges or goes out momentarily, the bulb will have a hard time refiring. I have seen it happen with different wattage lamps.
Maybe try unplugging for 20 mins or so and let the bulb and ballast cool..it may refire.
Maybe try unplugging for 20 mins or so and let the bulb and ballast cool..it may refire.
grum - I've had several Sativas over the years that never really got frosty. However, once allowed to go full term to a high percentage of amber and then cured for a good long while, they totally kicked my butt. Believe it or not, I still have about two Mason Jars of it stored away that's at least 5 or 6 years old. Sometimes when my back and legs get so bad that I won't be going out, I'll crack one and do a small bowl. INSTANT couch-lock and no care about the sciatica.
Don't discount it yet, you never know what you'll be gifted with.
One Love, PD
Don't discount it yet, you never know what you'll be gifted with.
One Love, PD
Pd, my pop used to suffer from sciatica. I feel for ya bro, that's some real pain. Pop used to go to the emergency room for a shot of Demerol just so he could sleep. I'm glad you get relief from cannabis.
Any of you guys know any easy place to pick up a few lu150 bulbs without using the net? The depot 150s are way too big, uses the mogul socket, need one that uses a medium.
Hello, abirdintheair. Have you tried hardware stores? Maybe a medium to mogul adapter?
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question for sam the skunkman on the original haze- Latest: harvestreaper
Latest posts
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question for sam the skunkman on the original haze
- Latest: harvestreaper
