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Ahhh I need help!

Random99

Member
Ahhh I need help! :badday:

There's definitely some "claw" happening with a lot of the leaves, I don't know if that is related or not.

from the beginning the bottom leaves turned yellow and they finally fell off a week ago.

Now the next set of leaves on the bottom are starting to get yellow.

I've only been giving it water, about 600ml every 1.5-2 days.
I've given it Tiger Bloom twice within the last week (but only small amounts) mixed with water.

What do I need to do? What do I need to buy?
I don't want to lose any more leaves.

here's some pics to help evaluate

the new sick leaves: (click for fullsize)



and here's some pics of the healthy parts so you can compare: (click for fullsize)



the very top leaves look the best imo. They are pointing staight up, no claw, very nice looking.

the middle all have the claw

and the bottom are yellowing as you can see.
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
hello Random...whats your soils ph...thats most important...seems like its a bit off...dont take ph from runoff its not accurate ...take a little soil add a little distilled water,let it sit for 5 minutes,ph test slurry ...and you have accurate ph...

work it from there....
 
B

Brother_Monk

:yeahthats Excellent advice core...get a baseline first. And random, you need to be specific about what you have given so far. A little bit of this, and a little bit of that is kinda misleading. If yer ph is out of whack, throwing money at it will only prove futile. Humidity and excessive nitrogen, as stated can cause the claw you are seeing.

:ying:
 

Blackvelvet

Member
Did you add dolomite lime to your soil mix? How long ago since you repotted?

First step is test ph...

How to test soil ph: After you have watered and ferted well till runoff, wait 30 minutes. Then apply some distilled water to the pot surface till about 1 ounce of runoff comes out the bottom. Catch this on a saucer. Test ph. If you don't have a ph meter, at least get some ph test strips from the aquarium section of a petstore. Range 4-7 might be ok.

If ph is low, you can apply some dolomite lime to the pot surface. Try a heaping teaspoon per gallon of soil mix. Water in.

Tiger bloom does have calcium and magnesium but I doubt enough. If ph is ok or on the high side, you can add calcium and magnesium to your water. 1/8 teaspoon epsom salts and calcium nitrate per gallon of water along with the tiger bloom. You can substitute calcium chloride sold under names like blossom end rot stopper for tomatoes for the calcium nitrate. It will take % ca and net weight of the bottle to give you a rate of about 35ppm ca. Cal mag plus is a store bought suppliment. Try about 3/4 teaspoon per gallon. It does not contain sulfur like using the epsom salts would. You do need more sulfur.

Apply 2 teaspoons tiger bloom per gallon of water with each watering. Make sure you get alot of runoff from the bottom. 20% of what you apply should come out the bottom.

Adjust the ph of your fert water after adding everything.

Unless the plants are rootbound and the temps hot, you may be watering too often at every 1 1/2 days. Remember plants grow better on the dry side but not wilting.
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
sproutco aka BV ...your doing this on purpose i think ..i'm just saying that most accurate way 2 take soils ph is distilled water...why are you fucking around then ....i'm still convinced you are here 2 fuck up newcommers gro's....:2cents:
end rot stopper ...lmao...stump remover ....
 
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Random99

Member
Core said:
hello Random...whats your soils ph...thats most important...seems like its a bit off...dont take ph from runoff its not accurate ...take a little soil add a little distilled water,let it sit for 5 minutes,ph test slurry ...and you have accurate ph...

work it from there....

Okay, I'll do that first, but what do I need to do from there?

Is the only thing I should buy a PH test? Anything else?
 
don't worry too much about dead leaves at the bottom of the plant. the leaf curl looks kinda like to much Phophorous or not enough Mn. Possibly both. I push my plants really hard in flower and I have seen my jack herers do something similar. be careful though, even when you fix a problem like this the plant won't exactly recover in appearence, but it will grow with more vigor and any new growth won't have these problems. thats how you know you fixed it
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
if ph is in check i suggest a good feeding ph'd between 6.3 and 6.5
if not like i think it will be...then i think its best 2 flush the plants with 3/4 strong nutes ph'd 2 the lowestor highest ph limit...with runoff but this depends if ph is high or low...i think low in this case
 
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Rosy Cheeks

dancin' cheek to cheek
Veteran
Since you seem to be two weeks or more in flower Random99, it's only natural that a few fan leaves drop off, particularly those at the bottom.
When the plant releases its flowering hormones, the plant concentrates entirely on flower and flower cluster leaf production. The big fanleaves principally helped the plant to grow and build sufficient stem and leaf mass up until that point, and afterwards the ones furthest away from the light becomes obsolete, and the plant rejects them.
That is a normal proces, so in fact, what you call 'sick' leaves are healthy, and the 'healthy' leaves are not, since they are slightly overferted.

Now, I'm not a Tiger Bloom expert, but it says on the fact sheet that it's 'organically based' and has a N-P-K of 2-8-4, so even if Space Ghost says it's N overfert (which I agree it looks like), I doubt that can be the case. If facts are as presented, we're probably looking at a Phosphorus (P) overdose - and you can't have been too skimpy with the nutes as you say, or we wouldn't be looking at this.
As Core said, my guess is that your ph is rather low due to this, and with the P overdose and probable deficiency causing ph levels, start with the suggested flushing, test your ph, then re-feed and try to keep the ph between 6.5-7.
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
naaah Rosy....i'd like 2 disagree on that...but no disrespect intended :wink:
you should be able 2 keep bottom leaves green untill you are 1/2 in flower...then you are on the right way(growise)...but then again its no big deal having some bottom leaves yellow up...that is common like you said....
 

Rosy Cheeks

dancin' cheek to cheek
Veteran
Theoretically yes, but if he's feeding 2-8-4 in early flower, when the plants need N to form flower cluster leaves, then the plant might need to move some N from within the plant to the top, and it will take it from the lower fan leaves. It also depends on how much light they get. On an outdoor plant, where light distribution is more even, bottom fanleaves often stay healthy until end flower, but in a cramped growroom where very little light reaches the bottom nodes, they simply wither and fall off.

Disagreeing is no disrespect, having different POW:s on an issue gives a better overall picture the problem. You could be right, I could be wrong...
 

Core

Quality Control Controller
ICMag Donor
Veteran
yes i totally agree now hehehe...K+ coz i just gave ya R+
 
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