MASSIVE OUTDOOR GROW

Note:Certain pictures/links have been removed at different times, for different reasons. My apologies.


The idea for a thread initially came to me as I was going on one of my last (or what I thought to be), "rounds" to go out for the year. ( of course also by another similar thread, which tended to span many subjects and topics and turn into quite a few posts..which is actually where and why I am borrowing the title, as it is somewhat of an offshoot....)

Of course, within 45 minutes of that thought, I had already finished speaking to someone who decided they "were in" for a a small run of "mini's, meaning I will have to, within a couple weeks, make another "round" for him, and, of course, since I will be busy anyway, well, I'll add a bunch also for me to put at a yet to be determined spot... (I'm sure I'll find a place for em....)

So, why and what occurred to me that my "last round", which was actually supposed to be a quick "hit and run" indoor at the "veg center" before packing it all up and shutting down, I decided I will just send them to an outdoor location.....possibly with some going to a seed plot..(That round is Rez Diesel, DA BB x NL, Blockhead, and the last of my BOG Sour Bubble....). Possibly my location(s), possibly Partnership locations. I haven't decided . (Depends on final numbers and spots at either available which seem "safe" enough. Of course, they'll be late planted/ "mini's", so, opens up a whole different set of possibilities and locations.

It then occurred to me since doing later rounds which weren't firmly planned, that why not just hold back those above, shave em (clone) all down when I started germing for the other project in about a month......and that of course while the entire process is quite simple.....sometimes people just need to hear and see a couple new ideas to form many of their own, and, that one being a good example. (ie: Instead of flipping down indoors, why not just hold onto them, veg a little, and turn those into another 500...and, split them between my own and the other project, or, even just keep them all for my spots and germ and prepare the other project. (about 500 mini's....)

Of course, I've made a lot of posts on a lot of topics contained, and, pics will be limited as many are aware I recently had a security breech, which in the process was deletion of handles, posts, galleries, and, also all the original docs and systems wiped clean, but, will include pics I can find when and where appropriate to illustrate.

I will leave specific numbers out of the topic, but, for sake of conversation "Earlier rounds" are 500+/-, and, "later rounds" are on average about 100 at a time give or take. (Could also be split, so, 50 one day, 50 the next, etc) So, we could say, to assist illustration, that the "main" might be around 4000-5000.......the "city" might be up to 1500+, and the "late/extra" might be around 500 or so....

(1st (main) is a split, 50/40/10, 40% my end, (Landowner of property owner always gets superior share as greatest risk in op).....City is 100% mine...Lates/3rd are 100$ in my spots, 50% mine in other spots (although if good year I'll change that to 30% my end to be generous.

(Note: I prefer to start with fem seed and then move onto clones and only do male/female seed when absolutely no other present choice. The no maintenance I prefer clones if I have extra so fem seed can be done at best spot (least security issues), and, if not, fem beans. (Male/female have to be sexed and can be a problem because of course we have no specific idea and would be impossible to go in , time it, and just sex all and not come back.)

Clones are simply done in RW plugs (2 to a plug for max spacing and efficiency ) under T-5's (domes misted daily) with about 1/4-1/2" very light nutes and usually by the time water is gone. If not sufficient roots (for transplant/desired), watered again, , same as above, after which there are usually more roots than plug left. It's easily possible to do 100+ per 10" x 20" tray, which means one can easily turn out numbers fitting their desires in a fairly small space, fairly quickly, with minimal cost. (And, no, it's not too late in season. If one had a couple mothers onhand, they might be able to get 200+ per mother, and, within 2 weeks, early July, have them out, enabling not quite giants, and, not quite mini's, but, some fair yields depending on your numbers.

The "main"/1st consists of wilderness, several hrs out of city limits where I always say you could "lie down in the middle of road, sleep, wake up, have some OJ and leave" never having seen a person or car or plane. It's about 100 "spots", with each spot up to 100+, "average" spots 50. (All "spots" planted staggered, worked in to surroundings, no definable pattern. Sometimes all same strain, sometimes mixed."Earlier" Holes/rounds are done by power ,app. 12" wide by up to 3" deep , prepped with dry organics, and, top fed once in a while when either there, the time to do it, or, see a need, but, do not usually show any problems and are top fed minimal 2 times. (About 3-5 cups of a custom organic mix are tossed in each hole and around the dirt from the whole and mixed before a transplant, and watered a little.)

The "City" might be up to 20 locations, up to 100 per "spot" because planted a little later (June-July) sometimes on opposite ends, areas of the city. These might consist of construction sites, railroad/highway sites, industrial with vegetation,around golf courses, city and county land...anywhere else one can imagine in a major metropolitan area. (My spot next do a suburban police station was turned into a development couple years back though )

City spots would be minimal holes, straight in ground, with dry mix and top feed (and sometimes crystals) mixed in with soil before planting, average 1 hole a minute and up to 1 x 1. Most of the time, done at night, spaces either used previous years without any problem or loss or new scouted numerous times the previous year, and, likewise, new spots scouted current year. Ideally, never a visit to second spot and finishing dates estimated with a night quick hit and run cut, although, a possible pass by if in area and right time of day and convenient. Maybe 2 during season, maybe less, maybe more but always a pre cut visit a week or so at a distance enough to scope plots and surroundings and try and determine if still there, okay, no issues to be concerned about.

3rd spot will most likely consit of an semi-urban backyard, maybe a 10 x 20 plot that will be prepped shortly by owner to my directions, and planted very small, very tight (pre sex)....maybe 500 or so, and, at the same time will be running maybe another 500 somewhere else that I have not decided yet that I would rather do on my own.(I mean, since I am making some anyway, might as well make more I think, right now......those , maybe will start........Hmmmm..........July 25th......lately, I have been doing about 14 days from when they break the soil to putting them out.(I only count after cracked seed and broke soil and shook off seed coat...) but, of course, late, (and anytime for that matter), people tend to "hold onto them" for any number of reasons a little too long when in reality your just hurting your own efficiency (ie: will grow faster out, so, you want them out asap, although "established" comes into play....the more "established" they are the greater chances of suiccess, but, with late planted, you want them out much earlier....)

Should also be noted late oplanted project has already changed now....and will be at least 3 locations...500 in one, and, up to 2000 in others....and, then...maybe even more...all depends on how many can be fit (germing) into prep space, which will be "mapped " out within next week or so (2-3 weeks before germ) (There was one planned earlier in year for about 4,000 in one spot, which died on the vine for various reasons, but, it is again being discussed...) That was most likely going to be a purchase of an "estate"..private land used in semi rural urban location if that makes sense....

Late projects will be done with the larger jiffy pellets,which I believe can be done up to 300+ per tray/container, getting about 2100+/- per room (2 rooms) every 7+/- days....(so, 4200 every 7+/- days...enabling a potential of 8400 mini's ready to go within 14+/- days....doesn't matter if a little off.....) Maybe some pics when prep and mapping of space begins, or when ready, or when out...(or all).. we will see....usually method is soaking in light veg solution, with about 1/4" in trays, replaced as it is either wicked, evaporated, or eaten.....(many know how fast the peat products as said can dry out.....you never want them to dry out.....the roots penetrate very easily when kept moist...and with such small volume (of medium) and such fast growth, they dry out very quickly if not tended to and enough in trays to wick...

All rounds for all projects, early or later (not the latest as above.."last shot" batches )are done when roots break through peat pots, which has been around 2 weeks or so and 6+".

(Peat pots, despite all other previous claims by any something I swear by, and, have tremendous success with on an extremely large volume, consistently. Some will claim that the pots leech moisture, drying out the pot, and that, as such, it is impossible for roots to penetrate , but, my experiences would show those inaccurate claims, due to not being aware how to use them correctly.

For any and all rounds, numbers are determined simple byby contaniners used (1.75" jiffy's not included in pick). In some cases, one might be able to get 500, even up to 1000 (300 per container)
instead of 100-200 at a time into a trunk
if using the jiffy's or the 2" peat, down to less per container with 3" (square or round), to 8-12-16oz cups, through the 6" peat pots , which are absolutely fantastic.

One should be aware of all steps in the process from start through finish (ie: If planning larger numbers, all should fall in line with those numbers from pots through transport through method to most quickly and efficiently plant.. 1000 jiffy's? No problem, 3 containers under a 1k. 1000 in 6" pots?, your looking at 50 per larger tray or container, meaning 20 trays to prep, plant, germ, grow, water, transport, and plant. Big difference. (Between 3 trays and 20!)

All rounds, anywhere, for any project are also scheduled and planted on days preceding rain. ie: 1-2-3+ days of rains coming in?, great, that will be enough to saturate soil, give them light weather/temps and sun to "break them in", meaning no sun exposure and no water/nute mix necessary for those rounds.

Likewise, some rounds just "have to go", plain and simple, regardless, so, those will get watered and also crystals (wetted down mixed in with solution used at transplant, and, also some dry added to hole.

Planting at different rounds of any location is determined simply by motivation "earlier" rounds tend to get the holes, and, are viewed as the "guarantee" for weight desired, using low estimates, of course (a lesson here), "later rounds, "other projects" are of course the "backup"...or, the "gravy".....

(ie: One could think, okay, I drilled 500 prepped holes, will be giants, solid, but, let's assume low end of 1/4 lb a plant (actual can be up to 2lb's a plant. 3/4-1 will probably be "actual" yield. (But, never assume) Then, one might continue germing or cloning and planting until "late season", for "gravy. (ie: separation and focusing on desired end results and objectives)

So.....some will have holes, others will not, and minimal hole...all are "no maintenance" to a degree...ranging from every 2 weeks for a quick "inspection" or so, possibly pull /cut some weeds and a top feed, some will simply be planted at any time, and return upon estimated finish dates established based upon strain.....late planted may very well be a prepared plot(s), completely, but I have not decided how yet.(ie: P-K heavy since will flower shortly, with higher N initial feeding?, etc...)

None will be watered manually unless absolutely necessary, which is usually not as planting before runs coming in, with or without holes, will usually get it going well enough where it can endure times with minimal rain.

Note: Ideally, you want a nice heavy storm every week, possibly two, with later, when established, especially with holes, it being able to handle more.

Of course I am in the NE, west of Mississippi, North of Tennessee. Others in climates with less rainfall may not be able to get away with the above, and might need you to stop in. For the most part, in that region, I have never watered a single plant manually in my entire life. This year, I watered one patch with about 300 one time...being of course out of many locations,(200?) and, many more numbers.

As one can possibly imagine, it does become somewhat of an issue keeping track of multiple spots, at multiple locations, and several different overall projects. Only memory and landmarks are used, with most locations being used before, and, most of the time, not a problem. (Many utilize GPS....which is fine until one realizes the implications should it fall into the wrong hands at any time, which leads right back to security issues, number of plants per plot, etc.....ie: Big difference being caught in a plot of 50-100 and being caught in a plot of 50-100 and then linked to 100+ other plots and up to 10-15,000+....

Maybe you just stumbled upon that plot and were planning to steal some while hoping the growers of it didn't come by...... (I know personally one individual whom was caught in a plot whom upon their appearance begged for his life and how he was only going to take a little............we'll leave it at that )

(It should be noted one should always have identifying factors covered (tats, hair, eyes, etc) and hoods when visiting and also a change of clothes nearby...( a man in black or camo from head to toe with a hood in no way clearly identifies someone 2 miles away in jeans in a t shirt....) Cameras have become the norm in investigations. Smaller projects one hopes upon a problem they will merely find business cards in the stumps, but the larger one goes, the greater the interest may very well be.

Of course, the magic of outdoor is it's simplicity. ie: Anyone, anywhere, anytime with minimal funding, a car, and minimal space can easily produce 1000 outdoors.(Even more...your only limit is your budget (can use bagseed) and the amount of time and effort one has to dedicate to the project(s)......

There might not be the pictures one is hoping for.....and with dates edited out........because...of course.....maybe I'm lying about numbers.......(could be).......maybe I'm lying about everything (dates) and aren't even running anything at all.....(could be).......



So.... anything and everything.....from seeds or clones early and late through outdoor drying through packed and gone....through asset allocation....property selection(s).....etc...

While many may be under the impression that money (management, distribution, procurement of assets,etc) and budgets and such things play less for outdoor, such is not only not the case, but, in some ways more so applicable, due to expenses reduced 10+ fold and profits and yields increased 10 x fold......

One example is I was recently talking to a newer grower (real life) about his objectives....."Why"...."And then what"....and, an example of topic in this specific case being "Okay, then, let's say, every year, for every crop, goal should be get a 6-12 flat out of it (6-12 unit apartment buildings...)"...every year, every crop, dedicate to real property/hard/tangible assets, etc....(or both split......maybe a building, and, then maybe assets placed at alternate location......ie: Why do it for money if objective is not to accumulate substantial wealth, etc....

Outdoor activities much less risk of being tied to a criminal conspiracy (such as being caught red handed in a property you have been watched coming in and out of arising from ___ information, etc...) and as such, carries much more safety (on a time line/annual/exposure basis)....ie: Instead of one being directly, or indirectly connected to 1 or more indoor locations and properties for 12 months out of the year...outdoor changes that aspect to one's involvement being 6 months out of the year, or less, and, depending when you plant, even less, ending up with the late planted "mini's", which would then place ones entire annual exposure at 3 months+/-....

Increased yield, increased profits, reduced expenses, reduced exposure.....

Also worthy of adding would be the true simplicity of running any sort of volume.....

I previously thought I was "done" was at least several weeks until late projects...overworked, needed a little rest, and, of course, that lasted about 4 days..., and, back to work.....

Many think volume is beyond them for many reasons, so, let's start at sq. one... 500 starts with a 40" x 40" footprint.Could easily be a couple times more, and, contemplating since back working, maybe just doing that weekly until the last projects (so, maybe squeeze in 4 rounds...500 each and then do the late rounds......which are still not established really for when and where, etc...but, could be fairly high numbers.....and, don't really have too many specific spots in mind, but, did also come across several others this week that I think I could fit another 1000 or so in.....

I've said many times before, that larger is overestimated, and, truly, the problems have to do with later in season...(visits, drying, packing....) Anything else not really a problem and volume just requires a "system" and more efficient approach.....One can easily run 500-1000 at a time if they are running 20....basic knowledge is required....

Wow, that was a good read... almost didn't leave anything for us to ask questions about

Anyways... so I do have some questions:
What do you think of buying property that is either recreational or zone agriculture and throwing plants randomly around the property... say like an 300 acre property that is fairly remote (40 minutes of a switch-back uphill dirt road)? All of its boarders are on national parks, so no real neighbors...

Second question is: I'm on the west coast (on the coast) and never really have any frost, but also no real rain.... should I just run irrigation to some plots or what... this is the chin scratcher for me

In keeping with tone, of course I do a lot of "no maintenance", always have, and, actually for the first time had a minor loss this year (about 100 or so), due to the batch having to go out and having no crystals, which are often heavily debated.

All the similar patches are fine, the one that went out where I did not have any on hand has officially been "fried"....(a shame, but, not end of the world, just a couple out of whole scheme of things...so....)

(These are "city" spots, with basically no cover, and exposure to sun from sun up till sun down....constant, in addition to, while there is indeed surrounding vegetation, they are basically dirt..(not what most people would consider spots where one could grow), so tend to become very hot also....)

Due to this loss (which I have taken a little harder than I should since it's really only about 1% of all...) I have now also implemented yet another level, which will be to mix in the smallest sizes of crystals (in addition to wet at planting and then dry also mixed) into the plots themselves......

There are of course many rules we should follow, and, should never be waived, regardless (technically, I should have held off on that round for a couple days until I was able to secure more supplies....but, they "had to go"....)

I'm also nursing my first ever case (minor) of poison ivy/oak/sumac, due to yet another lapse in protocol (long sleeves included), because it was "too hot"...(100 degrees, 100% humidity, and no wind whatsoever for several hours planting ....)

Of course attached to that is one should never work or visit plots unless properly covered due to possible identification issues (tats covered, hood, etc...) and such is a major potential security breach.

Many will debate this due to their volume, and , they are free to, it's only my position....

Back to crystals...I've of course been using them for years, but, this incident is the first rock solid and true indication of the actual difference they provide...(20 spots fine, the one without fried to a crisp....)

Well how long do the crystals last in the soil. I mean, do you mix 50% and get a day or two?

pumpkin2006 said:

Wow, that was a good read... almost didn't leave anything for us to ask questions about

Click to expand...

Well, if I do it right, your not supposed to have

Anyways... so I do have some questions:
What do you think of buying property that is either recreational or zone agriculture and throwing plants randomly around the property... say like an 300 acre property that is fairly remote (40 minutes of a switch-back uphill dirt road)? All of its boarders are on national parks, so no real neighbors...

Second question is: I'm on the west coast (on the coast) and never really have any frost, but also no real rain.... should I just run irrigation to some plots or what... this is the chin scratcher for me

Click to expand...

I don't like irrigation of any sort.....but, all must keep in mind if running such? Bury all lines beforehand....

Irrigation while of course not a miraculous feat, will indeed convey a "degree of sophistication", which will not paint a positive picture should anything occur....

Irrigation issue is:
1.Is it necessary?

If so, then there is no debate on whether one should or not....

I have done projects in the past that required it and was worked out, but, not in many, many years and for the most part have not had to water (due to locations NE quarter of US) myself....

I think 300 acres is more than enough to successfully pull off a cumulative 5 acres worth....(cumulative being of course total...one would not want to even have a solid acre, and, I personally would draw the line at about a solid 1/2 acre, but that would ideally be on a wooded/grassy location....done late, smaller, still staggered..

(Of course, one always wants everything staggered and worked into landscape.......(ie: NO ROWS!!!)

Unless of course your doing a mini run ...I've been working on(planning) such a project for a while (late planted, make it look like a commercial crop of some sort...I think highly possible, sizes help.....time of season helps, and, as I have written elsewhere, it's all about depth perception (from the air...)

How does an aerial view clearly display the size of the object?....Because it is in direct relation o things surrounding it....(ie: one cannot tell specific height, but may see from how it relates to a vehicle or outbuilding that the plants in question only reach the top of a tire of a vehicle, or, let's say, 10-15% the height of a garage nearby...

Personally I have also recently developed an interest and curiosity with the true AF/LR's...and, might very well have an interest in trying to pull of an early smaller crop (May, etc) Thinking about it offhand, I personal;ly would have no problem running a solid acre or 2 in May knowing finished shortly afterwards....

(Of course, one of the objectives and benefits of smaller plants and late projects is ones exposure and risk......dramatically reduced...)

On that note....I have always found, with the larger projects (early, larger plants)...it's really no big deal, as , they don't develop any significant size until later in season...(ie: Plant May 1.......no problems regarding visual aspects until July or so.....so, I'm sure many will agree, and, only strengthens the benefits of an earlier AF project...)

(Of course that leads in to people talking about forcing through shading and such, but, then one has to have some sort of means and facility to accomplish such things, and, I've never been a fan of greenhouses of any size (meaning larger.....if it was that easy, we could just all set up 10,000 sq. ft plus greenhouses....but, then again, the flip size would be that if enough sq footage, might be possible to do earlier batches in times that draw less interest, but, of course, I never advocate running anything, anytime, straight, indefinately......

More than once of course properties have been bought for projects....All depends what your desires are....

(I recently saw a 10 acre or so "estate".....and, still pondering if I could get away with a bunch or larger, or, many smaller, etc.......ie: if you could go full force, early, and, say, pull 100 5 lb'ers......might not be that bad....(10 an acre...)

(I typically don't run those, as requires more prep and attention than remote spots can provide.....so...but, lately have been contemplating it if area is right....)

Close Proximity to Parks (National and State) has always made me a little nervous, because all sorts of issues..(yes, YOUR land, but, who knows who might be passing over or by and why.......so...location on property and stealth would be issues, and, again, depends on method...(many smaller I personally would always do anywhere if location enables.....larger?..larger they are, greater the risk....)

pumpkin2006 said:

Well how long do the crystals last in the soil. I mean, do you mix 50% and get a day or two?

Click to expand...

I'm unsure of the question.......

If you toss a nice tablespoon into a gallon container and fill it with water.....within the hour the container will be solid...(maybe 2 tablespoons?...I've never done a formal experiment but very small amounts hold tremendous amounts of water.......)

I usually mix enough in so it is still liquid enough to pour and work with (in nutes), then mix in dry with the soil in hole, and, will from now on introduce even more finer crystals in with the surrounding/top surface...(for smaller, later city plots....so, 3 levels of protection....)

There are threads and discussions about these. I use whatever is available, and it's as simple as that.....

I guess my question is: How long can the crystals keep your plants alive, between waterings... also I'm sure there's a sliding scale, as to how many crystals you use and how long it will keep your plants alive. I guess what I was saying is: if I mixed half of my soil volume with crystals, would it sustain plants for a long period of time?

Edit: Also I don't know if you've seen the gel packs of "water" that can be mixed into the top soil to provide water, as well. Just your thoughts on those?

It would be very unwise to create a 50/50 mix I think, since a tablespoon or 2 could be a gallon, making a 50/50 mix.....a potential disaster...(I'm not even sure what the results would be with so much....I would imagine pushing your entire plant and soil right out of the hole with a heavy storm.....

I do believe I have seen those and other products, but, have not used them....I prefer something dry that can be used any way I wish...(added to nutes (liquid, initial planting), mixed in with soil/hole, etc, etc..

Given the time of the season and the weather (even earlier...), something very simple, yet overlooked should also be mentioned for all potential growers....

Note: If you will be out, working for extended periods, in unfavorable weather, always have something with you (to drink). What I do is usually throw a case of water, gatorade, or both, into the freezer a day or 2 before going out, and then tossing that into a cooler with some ice.....(They will be fine,. depending......if your out for several hours....will melt fairly quick, sometimes even by half if a long drive to locations......but, usually, if frozen, by the end of the day they are still cold.....)

(If too frozen, you just leave out for couple minutes and will be half melted...)

100 degrees more or less, heavy labor for hours at a time......you don't want to find yourself without enough (to drink)..Can make a big difference, and, important as any other aspect of preparation before going out....(Just as important as gloves, nutes, etc....)

(You want water on hand also at least to cool off, head, back, etc, etc, lower temps........couple hours or more in extreme heat with heavy work......not good if nothing onhand.....ie: Most might only be able to last an hour....if stocked, take a couple breaks, can maybe do 10 hrs....)

For those who own and are able to purchase property(ies), it could also be included and a reminder to take ones hobby and skill into consideration also when contemplating a move or a purchase.......such as something with more land, possibly father out, (better value, more privacy), and, inground pools are always a bonus also....(With very little effort and space, ones concerns with greater payments might be reduced when taking into consideration that minimal effort and yield may not only make up for the difference one is short, but possible far, far beyond that... ie: sure, might be 500-1000 a month greater than one desires, but, if one can pull in an extra 100k with minimal effort and exposure and time also......it does bring it all back into perspective.....Can be worked into landscaping, fence and treelines, sometimes even in semi urban areas...(Privacy fenced inground pools can provide astounding opportunities in itself I've done it...)

Of course, much has changed since previous discussions involving no money down and producing properties, but, this makes little difference, as, it is still possible in many ways and cases to get the same results and carry out same things.....(secure, purchase, utilize, repair, sell or hold)

Sorry, in ground pool? For forced flowering?

Not what I was referring to (was referring to later plantings, as said, worked into landscaping,fence and treelines.) and entirely possible (ingrounds for forceed situations.....I believe I have heard people do it, covers always in place...), but, controlling temps I think is the issue in such a situation......(heat would obviously be an issue when covered depending on region and season....Me? I love them too much to not have and use and empty..... Would rather have pool for summer than the op when other places....

a 20' x 40' pool privacy fenced at let's say 30' x 50' gives you a 160 feet (linear, perimeter), call it 3' deep and gives you almost 500 sq. ft.....behind a privacy fence (can also do outside fence if lot permits, privacy fenced and also out of view of any possible visitors to property (electric, gas)......do the math....even such minor projects produce what are fair numbers for most....

Case in point to pool issue above, (forcing), would seem like it could be easily done, but, then, your travel far away again from "no maintenance"...supplies,. daily labor, etc.......In the ground (plants) ideal whenever possible and that in itself cuts down incredible amounts of work and maintenance...

Just be careful with how much water crystals you use they expand and make your medium harder so your roots have a harder time to get deep into the earth where there is more moisture and could be more benificial for your plant's in the long run. Hi Julian buddy thanks for all the great advice.

Nice thread Julian.

I do have a question though. 1000 plants must take an awful lot of trimming and processing as outdoor bud can be huge and unruly. Care to share any thoughts on the process? I assume dedicated teams at many locations, but how do you build that network and trust it?

How do you transport OUT?


bb

BakedBeans said:

Nice thread Julian.

Click to expand...

Not my thread really, just continuing another with different angle (outdoor)...

I do have a question though. 1000 plants must take an awful lot of trimming and processing as outdoor bud can be huge and unruly. Care to share any thoughts on the process? I assume dedicated teams at many locations, but how do you build that network and trust it?

How do you transport OUT?

Click to expand...

Very good points.......and, I actually had some other stuff to add about site location and selection and reality.....

That is where the outdoor hang and dry comes into play, which I have done now for quite a while, in various regions, and almost always under conditions most claim is impossible (Who have never done it of course....)

So, out hang helps in many ways (this addresses process and logistics of transport) including moisture loss (weight, bulk....) helps with quality (outdoor hang is superior product compared to in dry), and also of course from my angle , addressing the above what really helps is I basically, in essence, don't even touch "the small stuff"....(ie: biggest best stuff first as that is where the weight is, and, actually, much, much faster to trim.....As in many can imagine, to trim a p of nice stuff (large, solid, etc), very, very quick..(I can do almost 2lbs + an hour myself with a pair of scissors), vs. of course that same hour for small stuff, well.........maybe take you 8?...10hrs?.....for a single lb?...My attention always goes straight to big stuff, small stuff goes into bubble piles, which are attended to (dried, cured, watched, no mold), and, later, before running the bubble, it's gone through and nicer things picked out and saved.......

Note: Bubble runs are done much later, when winter rolls in and there is no problem with temps, no shortage of ice and cold water, etc....ie: Winter you can put any amount of trim, or any amount of water outside and have it near frozen very quickly, which is easier in dealing with the trim when volume, and, temps outside extremely low....

So, in short the outdoor hang cuts down quite a bit of bulk making things a lot easier.....

Note: sometimes electric trimmers used at harvest or prior to harvest, and, sometimes also things not hung if looks like they are having, or will shortly have some issues (mold, etc..)

That is another reason also I like smaller later batches.......(smaller and more solid...), makes trimming a lot easier also......less small stuff if done well and end well..

Of course most projects tend to be circles of very long term associates, since childhood, etc, but, screening as always should apply, but, for the most part...it's all a natural progression and people "grow" into it (pun not intended but amusingly applicable )

Regarding any involvement it would be assuming more than one are involved given a larger size, and, machines also help a little...( a lot)...

(Note: This is of course not a grow diary per se, just addressing the subject, so...)

What I also wanted to address and is something discussed many times regarding the op itself and site selection and similar aspects is this:

Again, we go back to essentially growing...commercial..(large amounts..), which brings us right back to money......

Okay..........

Which comes down to expectations, operating expenses, the level of commitment one has, and the lengths they are willing to go......Specifically:

Lot of people want to grow "a lot"...lot of people want to make a"a lot" of money.......lot of people want to "make a million"....

Okay, so, let's address that.....

One wants to make 1MM dollars...but how?.....What are you prepared to offer?...what are you prepared to contribute?....

I have spend more than $50K on outdoor batches..(initial costs, supplies, etc, etc), and, that doesn't even touch time dedicated, labor, prep, etc, we're just talking simply what will come out of your pocket from planning through final execution....

(There's a couple angles to that...from cheap and easy through all out, so....one could still run 1000 for under 1k out of a closet.......but, later for that....) I think there's a pic above linked somewhere of 500 in a 40" x 40" spot, so, people who claim no room...well.....if you don't have a sq. meter to dedicate, then, yes, probably out of reach...(personally, I find 500 a sq. meter about as economical (use of space) as is possible....)

In continuing with the above, the we hit on site selection, which, really, is what it's all about..(ie: doesn't matter who and what you are and what you can do....if you don't have the site?...well........means nothing....it's the site which creates success imo more than the grower......

Bringing us back to okay, so, someone wants to make 1MM, and, I think the same when I look at these idiots running 50k+ plants in Cali...(hottest, if not the hottest outdoor location in the world.....)

So, someone wants to get it done, well.....I would personally recommend site selection in some cases have the limitations of region removed....ie: Can't pull it off where you are?, okay, what about somewhere else...50 states, all different..(penalties also), so...why not take care of it somewhere that is more favorable (But, again, someone wants 1MM or more, but, don't want to do what is necessary to ensure as high a degree of safety as possible.....

(the summary of the above is if your after big numbers.......going to a different site and state is not unreasonable......which goes back to "
Oh, you want to make money but don't want to put in any work for it....)

Not easy, not simple per se........can't expect to pull in 1MM+ without some outlay, work, etc....

Jmo....

(of course, one could do a residential lot, etc, as mentioned above and pull 250k from their backyard and pool area no problem , but, another topic....)

Above can be applied to any situation, indoor or out.....(If expecting 7 figures, appropriate efforts would accompany that....)

Thanks julian for all the valuable knowlage you have shared. Invaluable. Thanks for carrying on the other one as well, and posting this link.

Just trying to offer things that may be of help.....nothing really in either thread that anyone is not capable of doing anytime, anywhere....

Something else worthy of mention would be success and survival rates (earlier)......

Of course the more established they are when put out, the greater the chances of success.

I see people talk about losses and most of the time do not understand as during early veg (in) they should of course be gone through and if some are just not making it (runts, etc), then, of course, why bother filling valuable space (out) and spending time and effort in prepping a spot for something that already is demonstrating that it is not up to par, falls behind others, just not making it....(I've tossed maybe 100 this year early veg in......1-2" while the others in the same round were hitting 6-8-10"...)

Your target is no losses....and to do everything as it should be to try and ensure that...from selection to prep and more.....(likewise as mentioned I said I lost one of my city plots....100...well, my fault, I did not follow procedure to ensure everything would be fine (ran out of crystals...but "they had to go"...my own fault, oh well.....I didn't follow what I knew to be the case (fairly rare, and, I lost em....certainly not a surprise and no one to blame but myself.....) I also lost about 10-20 from another patch whenj storms brought a tree down right in the middle of location (but, I am waiting....won't be surprised if they just grow right up through branches...so, waiting to see how that one goes Might just turn out to be of help (support, like a trellis, etc )

Talk with people a lot lately about protection and security aspects, and, might address that once I get a chance......seems like many don't understand the way life, and people work....

Another aspect but addressed elsewhere would also be planning, accumulation, etc....(I've already had several projects in planning stage for quite a while.....some are things I want to do but waiting for right time and opportunity...1-2-3 years...others might be as simple as I have already been working on next years project(s) since May.....

(Note: I always allow (for stock and supplies) the chance that one will "pop up", and usually expect that and "plan" for it........make allowances of supplies, etc....I just had an "extra one" pop up already this year, and, kind of threw me off (had to put out some stuff I was going to run indoors when all out done for year), so, those ended up going out because rooms would be occupied with later rounds and would not have had enough time to run them.....

Which again goes back to the above, and, success and money.....(planning)....You plan, you prepare, you accumulate, you wait for the opportunity......patience.....unless extremely seasoned......best always not to rush into something....

(I had one planned for late this season (larger out, mini's...) looks like not going to happen this year, so....not a big deal, will shoot for next maybe.....not a problem, I still have things going and working on, so......just another thing ready to go (was ready this year....so, at this point..........when opportunity arises and becomes possible....it's ready to be executed quickly and easily....)

(Which could also relate to timeframes...late planting....lot of people write a season off when "too late"....It's not too late until it's too late" )....

A 20 ft deep bed of stinging nettles (Urtica Dioica) around your patches would help your security as well as help the plants.

bb

I actually have many large patches among those (just the phrase makes me cringe...) In addition to some extremely large areas of poison ivy, oak and sumac..........(nursing a minor cases now .....)

(And for anyone who is not familiar, well...there is, indeed, a reason they are named "stinging" nettles ) (I hate those fuckin things...working in a field of them is not pleasant....)

On that now how spaces are cleared are also by power......trimmers and weed wackers, etc,....easy to clean a spot in the middle fairly quick......(plus of course, a lot of those spots are absolute nightmares regarding mosquito's......(were so many recently, my ears were ringing for several days........not pleasant....)

Yeah, with power, you can have 4-6 foot growth and have a space cleared in literally seconds......cleared a 10 x 20 spot in the middle of 4-6 feet vegetation last time in about..........5 minutes?

I have some "neighborhood" shots maybe I will upload later after checking and editing, and, also 1-2 showing a spot cleared for planting...(we actually have a large spot right in the middle of what seems to be a dense growth of poison sumac (maybe about......100' x 400'...).....I'll check to see if I have any shots of that one....(I don't really understand anyway because that region is not known for it..(I checked while researching treatment I never had it before because always take precautions....)