After OG went down I haven’t really been on any forums, I’m into the smoking toys, vapes, I like making my own stuff, I don’t know where else to post this so I’m putting it here, it sure would be nice to see a smoking toys section or a vape section.. I’m getting ready to get back on the all glass air stream (all air heated my glass only, no metals or even ceramics) digitally controlled vape I’ve been making.. I need somewhere to post my progress = ) ….on with it.
Tools:
Mapp or propane (see below) bottle with torch head from any hardware store
Dremel type tool with cut off disks, diamond preferred but not essential.
Eye Protection, glass can crack, it can shoot tiny pieces of hot glass, also use when operating the dremel
1. This is a 18.8 downstem, and I will be using Mapp gas which burns hotter than Propane, for the 14.4 you’ll be able to get away with just propane, which you’re more likely to have laying around. As pictured you start with a small flame with the downstem high above to slowely start heating, hold there while turning for about 1minute, heating to fast can cause cracking. Now normally glass blowers use didymium glasses to filter out the sodium flare (the bright yellow flame that comes off the glass when heated) but you aren’t going to experience that with these levels of heat, it will go slightly orange, but barely, you need oxygenated torches for that.
2. Next take a scrap piece of glass from something broken and start heating it, just throw it right in the flame, doesn’t really matter if it cracks, it most likely won’t anyway.. once both pieces are heated (glass kinda turning orange, but you won’t be able to see it well if you're outside- look for the flame to turn orange aswell) start using the scrap to pull the sides of the tube inwards to seal it off by sticking it on to the sides of the tube and pulling in, working around it until it’s sealed, this may take a bit of practice but isn’t very hard.. once sealed the glass will most likely be stuck on like mine is in the pic, I stuck it there on purpose so I could use my other hand for the camera.. just hold it in the flame and twist it off.. I’ve messed around with glass quite a bit so mine will probably look better than yours, but as long as it’s sealed, or even mostly sealed and will still fit into the bong it will work no matter how ugly. (note: if using coloured glass scrap have some ventilation, it can give off fumes, although it’s not being heated nearly as much to what it would be to actually make a glass piece I still recommend doing it outside with colour)
3. Heat the end up as evenly as you can by turning it in the flame, get it as hot as you can, couple minutes, you just want to heat around the bottom, this will help smooth it out.
4. Then what you want to do is try and balloon it out a bit by quickly taking it out of the flame after it’s been thoroughly and evenly heated all around and blow into the open end, it most likely won’t end up even, that’s ok, the parts that aren’t getting blown out at all can be held higher in the flame.. not too hot and lightly blown out to try and make it round, be careful blowing while it's in the flame though, you could blow a hole through it, just blow lightly until you see how the glass reacts. Don’t make the bubble too big or it won’t fit in the bong, have the bong there to check. (note: if it’s to big to fit into the bong remove it immediately, you don’t want it touching the cold glass for too long, it could cool the downstem to fast and crack it, this won’t happen unless you hold it on there for a good 5-10 seconds) ) if you blow it out too big just stick it in the flame and it will suck back in, if you have a stray hunk of glass stoping the downstem from going into the bong heat it up and stick the scrap onto it, heat the side of the excess chunk that attaches to the downstem and slowly start pulling it off.. after it looks like it’s gonna work have some sand ready, or some dirt, vermiculite would be best, quickly torch the sand/vermiculite/dirt to heat it and put the bottom hot end into the s/v/d and torch around the s/v/d to heat it more, only for about 10 seconds or so, then lay down the tube and have the hot end covered completely, leave it for about 20min until totally cool, this step is not absolutely necessary but it will ensure that your diffuser will be stronger and I highly recommend doing it.
5. Here’s the rotory tool I used, it has one of those flex connections which works well to keep the water away from the actual tool, and it’s easier to handle. I have a diamond cutting disk I bought because I cut glass a lot with it.. but they are expensive ($25CAD) and you can get away with the regular cutting disks, you want medium/high rpm setting for this job.
6. The glass needs to be wet while you cut it, somehow rig up your hose or do it in your sink, whatever works, just a little stream of water works great, you may get wet doing this, the disk will sling water filled with glass dust (WEAR EYE PROTECTION!) Slowly cut into the side of the ballooned area, go around cutting slits in it keep it wet and taking care not to twist the disk, go straight in and out, and don’t cut the slits too close to each other. (note: must be completely cool before doing this, adding cold water to the glass if it’s still hot at all will most likely crack it)
7. That’s it! Rinse it off with water, clean your bong before you test to get get the most from your downstem mod and feel the difference! Much smoother and nicer to hit on, less gurglely.. a very noticeable difference.
Tools:
Mapp or propane (see below) bottle with torch head from any hardware store
Dremel type tool with cut off disks, diamond preferred but not essential.
Eye Protection, glass can crack, it can shoot tiny pieces of hot glass, also use when operating the dremel
1. This is a 18.8 downstem, and I will be using Mapp gas which burns hotter than Propane, for the 14.4 you’ll be able to get away with just propane, which you’re more likely to have laying around. As pictured you start with a small flame with the downstem high above to slowely start heating, hold there while turning for about 1minute, heating to fast can cause cracking. Now normally glass blowers use didymium glasses to filter out the sodium flare (the bright yellow flame that comes off the glass when heated) but you aren’t going to experience that with these levels of heat, it will go slightly orange, but barely, you need oxygenated torches for that.
2. Next take a scrap piece of glass from something broken and start heating it, just throw it right in the flame, doesn’t really matter if it cracks, it most likely won’t anyway.. once both pieces are heated (glass kinda turning orange, but you won’t be able to see it well if you're outside- look for the flame to turn orange aswell) start using the scrap to pull the sides of the tube inwards to seal it off by sticking it on to the sides of the tube and pulling in, working around it until it’s sealed, this may take a bit of practice but isn’t very hard.. once sealed the glass will most likely be stuck on like mine is in the pic, I stuck it there on purpose so I could use my other hand for the camera.. just hold it in the flame and twist it off.. I’ve messed around with glass quite a bit so mine will probably look better than yours, but as long as it’s sealed, or even mostly sealed and will still fit into the bong it will work no matter how ugly. (note: if using coloured glass scrap have some ventilation, it can give off fumes, although it’s not being heated nearly as much to what it would be to actually make a glass piece I still recommend doing it outside with colour)
3. Heat the end up as evenly as you can by turning it in the flame, get it as hot as you can, couple minutes, you just want to heat around the bottom, this will help smooth it out.
4. Then what you want to do is try and balloon it out a bit by quickly taking it out of the flame after it’s been thoroughly and evenly heated all around and blow into the open end, it most likely won’t end up even, that’s ok, the parts that aren’t getting blown out at all can be held higher in the flame.. not too hot and lightly blown out to try and make it round, be careful blowing while it's in the flame though, you could blow a hole through it, just blow lightly until you see how the glass reacts. Don’t make the bubble too big or it won’t fit in the bong, have the bong there to check. (note: if it’s to big to fit into the bong remove it immediately, you don’t want it touching the cold glass for too long, it could cool the downstem to fast and crack it, this won’t happen unless you hold it on there for a good 5-10 seconds) ) if you blow it out too big just stick it in the flame and it will suck back in, if you have a stray hunk of glass stoping the downstem from going into the bong heat it up and stick the scrap onto it, heat the side of the excess chunk that attaches to the downstem and slowly start pulling it off.. after it looks like it’s gonna work have some sand ready, or some dirt, vermiculite would be best, quickly torch the sand/vermiculite/dirt to heat it and put the bottom hot end into the s/v/d and torch around the s/v/d to heat it more, only for about 10 seconds or so, then lay down the tube and have the hot end covered completely, leave it for about 20min until totally cool, this step is not absolutely necessary but it will ensure that your diffuser will be stronger and I highly recommend doing it.
5. Here’s the rotory tool I used, it has one of those flex connections which works well to keep the water away from the actual tool, and it’s easier to handle. I have a diamond cutting disk I bought because I cut glass a lot with it.. but they are expensive ($25CAD) and you can get away with the regular cutting disks, you want medium/high rpm setting for this job.
6. The glass needs to be wet while you cut it, somehow rig up your hose or do it in your sink, whatever works, just a little stream of water works great, you may get wet doing this, the disk will sling water filled with glass dust (WEAR EYE PROTECTION!) Slowly cut into the side of the ballooned area, go around cutting slits in it keep it wet and taking care not to twist the disk, go straight in and out, and don’t cut the slits too close to each other. (note: must be completely cool before doing this, adding cold water to the glass if it’s still hot at all will most likely crack it)
7. That’s it! Rinse it off with water, clean your bong before you test to get get the most from your downstem mod and feel the difference! Much smoother and nicer to hit on, less gurglely.. a very noticeable difference.
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