G
Guest
I thought I'd throw these pics up of how I built my cool tubes. Hopefully this will help someone. I got everything but the socket and the glass from Home Depot. The hurricane lamp glass can be found at most hobby/arts + crafts stores.
Total Cost: Approx. $20
Here's what I used:
Hurricane Lamp Glass
6" to 4" Ducting Reducer [optional]
Metal Pipe Strap [28 Gauge]
3"-5" Hose Clamp
Aluminum Foil Tape
Lamp Socket that came with my ballast
First, you need approx. 2 ft. of pipe strap. This can either be cut with metal snips, or you can just bend it back and forth until it breaks [caution: it will get hot before it breaks]
Next, make 2 folds in the strap, so you are left with a section 1/3rd the original length, but much sturdier and thicker. IMPORTANT: When folding the strap, make sure the holes are aligned with each other.
Next, mount your socket in the middle of the strap. I used the hardware that came with my ballast, and my socket's mount holes line up just right with the holes in the strap. NOTE: You may have to drill an extra hole in the strap if your socket's mounts don't line up.
Once your socket is secured in the middle of the strap, place it on the glass and bend the 2 ends down around the glass. You should end up with something like this......
Once you've got the strap bent around the glass, and the socket is near centered in the glass, put the hose clamp around the straps and tighten it down. CAUTION: Don't overtighten the clamp, it could break the glass.
At this point, make sure your socket is mounted tightly, then you can insert your bulb and check to see if it's centered properly.
Now the big end of the ducting reducer goes over the socket-end of the glass. I used high-temp aluminum foil tape so it will not melt if my fan ever fails.
Connect the socket wires to the ballast, and hook up your ducting. 6" ducting can be taped directly to the glass without the use of the reducer. 4" ducting can also be taped directly to the glass if you need to save space.
Total Cost: Approx. $20
Here's what I used:Hurricane Lamp Glass
6" to 4" Ducting Reducer [optional]
Metal Pipe Strap [28 Gauge]
3"-5" Hose Clamp
Aluminum Foil Tape
Lamp Socket that came with my ballast
First, you need approx. 2 ft. of pipe strap. This can either be cut with metal snips, or you can just bend it back and forth until it breaks [caution: it will get hot before it breaks]
Next, make 2 folds in the strap, so you are left with a section 1/3rd the original length, but much sturdier and thicker. IMPORTANT: When folding the strap, make sure the holes are aligned with each other.
Next, mount your socket in the middle of the strap. I used the hardware that came with my ballast, and my socket's mount holes line up just right with the holes in the strap. NOTE: You may have to drill an extra hole in the strap if your socket's mounts don't line up. Once your socket is secured in the middle of the strap, place it on the glass and bend the 2 ends down around the glass. You should end up with something like this......
Once you've got the strap bent around the glass, and the socket is near centered in the glass, put the hose clamp around the straps and tighten it down. CAUTION: Don't overtighten the clamp, it could break the glass.
At this point, make sure your socket is mounted tightly, then you can insert your bulb and check to see if it's centered properly.
Now the big end of the ducting reducer goes over the socket-end of the glass. I used high-temp aluminum foil tape so it will not melt if my fan ever fails.
Connect the socket wires to the ballast, and hook up your ducting. 6" ducting can be taped directly to the glass without the use of the reducer. 4" ducting can also be taped directly to the glass if you need to save space.
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Be VERY CAREFUL when you attach the hose clamp go very slow and careful not to over do it. 
