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Blumat Pumps

Sustainable village has a pump for blumats for $800 not to bad of a deal because it comes with 50 spikes.

But if you already have your spikes there are a few options.

Almost any small demand pump will work, the first one I built used a 12 volt shurflo pump ($45) and 12 volt power supply ($20) off Amazon, a shurflo accumulator ($50), and watts P60 adjustable regulator ($32), and a few fittings from the hardware store.

Several 115 volt pumps are available but are a bit more expensive. A 1gpm 60-80 psi would be more than sufficient for almost any setup.

An easy way to go would be the Shurflo 804-001 booster setup, just swap the fittings use a regulator, adjustable or blumat and your good to go.
 

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LostInEthereal

Active member
Awesome post! This must have been serendipity as I rarely browse the bulk of the forums any more. I have spent much of my recent time reading the entirety of several thousand post threads (such as the Blumat autowatering thread) and trying to keep up with life.

Over the course of reading the Blumat thread, I have spent countless hours on google and amazon (and even SV) researching pumps and the like. I noticed on your second setup you used a significantly larger accumulator tank. I read somewhere along the lines of concerns with heat generation and cavitation, but I believe this was rectified with the accumulator and if not was of minimal concern due to the increase in pressure? I was just wondering what would be appropriate for my setup. I'm just getting started with my first grow and this is sort of a half-ass test run (or at least learning as I go). So I don't yet have a good basis for comparison.

I have finalized my plan, and it consists of my 4'x4 tent, lit with 600w or 1000w HPS (season dependent), flowering out 9x clones/seedlings brought over from my veg tent. I am currently running all said equipment, hand-watering the veg tent and recently setup the Blumat on the flowering tent, which is nearing completion of second week of 12/12. I have 2 monster bushes in there right now (+2 smaller plants), much larger than the 9 I propose, but comparable in scale once rationed out I reckon. Going through more than a gallon in 12 hours with zero run-off.

I guess what I'm getting at is, did you have any issues with your initial setup or do for foresee any with the 804-001 system on such a small scale? I apologize in advance for any rambling or incoherencies, I'm running rather low on ganja so supplementing heavily with some Stella Atrois tonight.
 

budderfly

Active member
I'm curious what connectors and tubing you're using to connect the pump, accumulator, and regulator? The P60 regulator is 1/4" NPT.. do you just adapt that to a larger main tubing size?

Also, do you have a preferred site you shop at for this stuff?

I get 1gpm 60-80psi but do they specify maybe self-priming too? I know some pumps are not and that's not what we want. Is a filter not necessary when using an accumulator or would that be a good thing to add? What's even the difference between all these similar pumps:

http://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-4008-171-E65-115V-3GPM-Revolution/dp/B00C5T6OS6
http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-Industrial-Pump-Model-2088-594-154/dp/B0001FAA5Y
http://www.amazon.com/EFMCO-2088-594-154-SHURFLO-TRANSFER-PUMP/dp/B00E5UVXJ8
https://www.foreverpureplace.com/SHURflo-pump-8005-733-155-p/8005-733-155.htm


I have a 4'x6' room with 14 plant sites that I run split 7/7 a month apart. I'd like to set up two rez's both with lines circling the room with a T and quick connect so any plant site can be on either rez. Can I get smaller, less expensive pumps and accumulators? I don't particularly want to spend $500 setting up two rez's. Thankfully I can gravity feed the veg area.

I'm not totally clear on whether I should have the line return to the rez or be capped with a shut off to flush to a drain.. I think I need to have 3mm coming off the quick connects for the carrots, yes? I have a bunch of 1/2" poly that would work for a main, but I'd want hard 90's for the corner's, or I could get new line for the main, or use the 8mm with the kit.. and I haven't seen what's available for T's to 3mm yet. Lots to research still I guess.

Is this an appropriate sized accumulator? http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B000N9VF6Q

Decent regulator? http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-Regulator-Lead-free-Adjustable-A01-1117tm/dp/B00KH7RFVI
 
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Sorry this reply took so long, I don’t check in very often
If I was to use a 115v pump this is the one I would use

http://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-8005-...448807631&sr=1-1&keywords=shurflo+demand+pump

The hose fittings I used are similar to this one, I just got what I needed at the local hardware store.

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-19-9503...qid=1448807816&sr=1-5&keywords=nylon+fittings

The regulator you listed is brass and 45psi, the watts p60 is plastic and set to 15psi. My personal preference is to have as little metal as possible exposed to the nutrient solution.

Another way to go is to use the blumat hose adaptor as it drops the pressure to 15psi.

¼ npt is fine for the pipe size, there is only a trickle going through the line. And for supply line to the blumat tees I used ¼ id tube from local hydro store, between the pump and accumulator is ½.

a cheap 12v pump that would work is this one
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1VYEMRT76JBHVEFFF4AY
 
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Genes

Member
Hey Weed Killer, I was wondering if you could help me understand how to plumb and setup a RO water storage tank to my shurflo demand pump. I have the shurflo accumulator - but I am looking to feed 72 5.5" square pots and the pump seems to want to cycle (noise) more often then is ideal for the location.

I imagine the RO storage tank (3.2gal roughly) will allow for a longer duration between cycles. ( I happened to have one, and came across you using one in your setup!!)

I picked up a watts p60, a 4" pressure gauge to keep it easy to know whats up, and a couple 1/4" npt x 1/2" barbs. I also am using 1/2" poly and 3/32 'wye' fittings.

I am a little confused as to adjusting the tank to the pressure needed and tweaking the pumps pressure switch. I had already tightened? the pressure switch on the pump to make it a little less responsive. I am looking at your picture- and wondering if I have to mount the tank upside down? I would love to have it sit normally. I will draw you a picture or see if I can upload a shot of the pump setup as it stands and maybe you can direct me better.

thanks - Genes
 

Sforza

Member
Veteran
You have to mount the accumulator tank with the fittings on the bottom, which is normal and not upside down. There is air trapped in the end of the accumulator tank above the hose fittings. When the pump runs it partially fills up the accumulator tank, which compresses the air in the tank. That way, the pump does not have run all the time because the compressed air in the top of the tank supplies the pressure until the pressure in the tank drops down to the point where the pump kicks back on and re-pressurizes the tank.
 

Genes

Member
I have my first concept rigged up, almost identical the firs post by weed killer. Maybe I am testing this wrong:

IMHO Accumulator is too small for 72 plants, I havent actually let the blumats get adjusted yet, they are all attached to the manifold and tightened- and I am gauging how much volume until the pump cycles by opening the shutoff end over a bucket, right now its really low. Maybe a litre?

The accumulator is mounted in the correct orientation (even though it says on the packaging it can be in any position). however, I am just wondering explicitly about the RO storage tank hookup steps/etc.
 

Genes

Member
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

besides a silly issue with too sharp of a punch putting holes in my supply line and spraying everywhere. Seems to maintain pressure quite well and turn on for maybe 10 secs every 5 mins.

Still working on figuring out getting the RO tank inline to replace the accumulator. I think it will be simple and only need a bit of tube, an adapter and a tee fitting @ 3/8"OD 1/4"ID, but I am famous for over and under thinking and being so close but no cigar upon hands on project time and having to go get one little piece or two.

Have a pressure gauge too, and a watts p60 as per your little DIY earlier, but my gauge was installed wrong or doesn't work and the p60 is a 2way and I thought it was a 4way. I put the gauge on the outlet side of regulator - and the inlet was connected to a petcock on a tee, allowing me to purge the line. I wasn't able to get the dial to turn when the pressure built up. Without watching the psi changes I have a hard time really grasping the actions of the pumps cycles. Not sure I can actually set the RO tank without the gauge to help adjust and pressurize. Any pro tips or elucidation would be exceptional and appreciated.
-Thanks
Genes
[/FONT]
 
Looks great, the accumulator should be set at 2-3 psi less than the shut off of the pump, if you have a working gauge of course. I would try to get it working.

Another way is to slightly over pressurize the accumulator, run the pump to shut off and let some air out of the valve until the pump kicks in and starts to fill the tank.

And to be clear for the larger tank, it is an expansion tank rated to 150 psi.

Some RO tanks are trapped air tanks, in that Sforza is correct, but if it has a Schrader valve it is a bladder tank, should work, just don’t exceed rated pressure.

An accumulator tank with an air valve can be mounted in any position, the bladder in the tank will force out the liquid regardless of orientation.

The factory setting on the pressure switch should be about 60psi, 40 to 60 is good.

I used a schedule 80 ¾ coupling (hard to find but safer) on the tank, then a ¾ to ½ bushing with a ½ barb run tee for hose connections. I also put a drain valve on the outlet, because these pumps don’t like to prime under pressure.

The picture of your setup should work fine, it’s the spitting image of what is offered by blumat.
 

Genes

Member
Awesome, thanks for the explanation. You have no idea how much it is appreciated.

I hope to find out for sure tomorrow if the guage is working or not, and the tank does have a valve at the bottom - thanks for confirming my any-position suspision. Correct me if I am wrong- I will not need the accumulator inline before my storage tank? Unless I am overlooking a benefit to its use with a larger tank.

I went looking for your second design picutres and seem to have trouble finding it. I was trying to look at your fitting coming from the storage tank. You mention a 3/4 coupling being safer. First of all, my tanks connection is 1/4" npt if I am not mistaken.

Could you explain to me the reasoning for a 3/4" adapter - or is my tank the wrong choice. Being the weekend ...In a pinch for fittings/ plus a lack of full knowledge of plumbing at the moment, was going to put the watts right on there (@ top of storage tank using the inlet side) and tee it off (outlet) to the main line from the 1/4" x 1/2" (@ watts p60) barbed fittings I have.

It seems to have a 3/8"OD tubing elbow (90degree) shutoff plumbed on the tank already, in case you were wondering. I have clear vinyl tubing 1/4"ID that goes in snug, just in case for some reason I need it.
 
The RO tank will be your accumulator, you won’t need the small surflo one.

In the pic the white fitting under the tank is the ¾ coupling, I later replaced it with a schedule 80 fitting. That is the size of the fitting on the tanks I use.

The gauge on the left shows pump pressure and is not necessary.

Any tee fitting that will fit your tank will work, in from the pump and out to the regulator.
 

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Genes

Member
Thanks for the time to explain that with the big picture!

I have mine pretty much up and running without the big tank as I am waiting for some pvc fittings!

I was wondering if you have experienced this, or know what is causing it. My main line before the pressure reducer is ballooning up and making me nervous about a burst. I did not manage to take a picture of the balloonage- but incase you were wondering, I highlighted the area. I was thinking of sleeving it with a piece of firmer 3/4" garden hose to reduce the degree of swelling? Seems like a decent fit, not too snug, not too roomy.

I also tried tightening the pressure switch a few more turns and it seemed to make the pump cycle even less frequently - but the swelling of hose is still there.

Any idea? I can't wait for these fittings!! I was thinking of using the 2way regulator on the water tank - adjusted to as free-flowing as I can presume while torqued nicely. and using the 1/4"x1/2"barbed fitting to just use regular tees and such. See any issue with that?

I worry I will run into the same issue just in a different spot when using that tank with swelling before the tropf regulator.
 

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