OldGuyInOregon
Member
On parallel diode circuits... Several people ask "Can I drive a... with a...". Invariably, these people are "married to parts". By this, I mean that rather than design the circuit, then pick the parts, these people are picking the parts, then trying to design a circuit that uses these parts. People, that is backward.
If you ask me "Can I drive a... with a...", then I will tell you "Yes or no" based on Vforward and the maximum current for your diode. That does not mean the same thing as "Do you think this... is a good idea". That is not the correct question to ask anyway.
A reliable diode circuit requires current-limiting for each diode series. Without current limiting, a variety of problems affect the overall performance of the circuit. All of these problems relate to the fact that diodes vary, even diodes that are the same make and model. So if you have your heart set on a CXB3590 and you want to use several, they will not have the exact same Vforward at a given temperature. What's worse, they will have different temperature characteristics, so even if they started off with the same Vforward, unless your current is low, the devices will heat up, then the Vforward will vary. Finally, even if Vforward starts off the same, and even if these diodes have the same temperature characteristics, over time the diodes will change differently based on material properties, manufacturing tolerances, cosmic rays, you name it. Eventually, these diodes that started off exactly the same, will not be the same.
Who cares? As long as they light up I don't care what old guy says!
That is the problem. If the diodes start off similar enough, or if the current is very low compared to Imax for the diode, then they will probably light up initially. Sooner or later, they will not all light up. This will happen because the difference between Vforward is eventually sufficient that one or more diodes never light up. When this happens, any diode that did light up is taking all the current the power supply will provide.
The simplest case is two identical diodes in parallel. Let's suppose that Vcc is slightly greater than Vforward, and that Icc is equal to the maximum rated diode current Imax. Since there is two diodes in parallel, each diode should see half that current. Typically, 50% Imax is Itest for the diode in the manufacturer sheets, but Cree normally uses 2/3 Imax and that would be worse. Let's assume that due to current limiting for the entire circuit only Imax can flow.
If the Vforward for the two diodes is different more than about a volt, then the diode with lower Vforward will turn on while the other diode is off. It will literally take all of the supplied current. So that diode is on at 100%, and the other diode is off. Unless the diode is thermally able to sink the entire Imax for the amount of time it is on, it will eventually fail. When it fails, the other diode will light up, for a minute, then it too will get hot and fail because it is not thermally able to run at Imax for an extended period either.
If you design your parallel circuits so that each diode can withstand Icc indefinitely and can also dissipate the heat associated with operating at Icc, then you so over-designed your lamp. Your money would be better spent designing the lamp right, so that all the parts are running "in the sweet spot", not maxed-out or under-utilized.
In order to have current limiting in each parallel branch of a diode circuit, you need:
1) a driver per branch, or
2) a channel of an n-channel driver per branch, or
3) a current-limiting driver for the circuit, and then different current limiting per branch.
I think approach one is obvious. It is what most people try. The problem is that drivers are expensive and the reason that most people want to parallel diodes is that they think they can use only one driver for the circuit.
Approach two is not utilized enough in the DIY lamps I see. If you want parallel diodes, then get a two channel (or however many channel) driver. These will normally be cheaper for n=2 outputs, and normally much cheaper for n>2 outputs, vs. discrete driver per branch. The reason is that multi-channel drivers share a good bit of stuffs on the inside so there is your savings.
Approach three may be of interest to some DIY's because the idea is to use one driver for an entire diode circuit. This will provide good quality current limiting to the circuit and achieves this at one driver per lamp. Then, realize current limiting in a branch differently. For example, a suitable fuse would work. The idea is not to prevent the diode from running higher than its normal Idiode. The driver protecting the entire circuit is doing that when things are working OK. The purpose of the fuse is to current limit to Imax, NOT Idiode. That makes his job very easy, and very cheap to do. So if you want to run three of those Cree bad boys in parallel, and your driver can provide 5A, put a 2A fuse per branch plus your driver for the whole circuit and then no diode sees more than 2A and the average is the design current 5/3 A. If you want to do this, be sure to check the voltage rating to see it is more (considerably more is fine) than Vforward, and that the sustainable forward current is more than your desired diode current. These devices cost about $1, so the cost is the one driver plus three fuses, plus your time if you blow fuses and you are too cheap to buy fuse sockets. Hey a $1 fuse and a $1 fuse holder is better than a $40 COB or a $60 Meanwell driver.
Anyway, the correct question to ask when you want to use some specific diode and some driver is "How can I effectively use these ill-suited parts I selected mostly on the basis of stoner website posts to grow some weed". I'd buy a few fuses and use approach three.
Peace!
If you ask me "Can I drive a... with a...", then I will tell you "Yes or no" based on Vforward and the maximum current for your diode. That does not mean the same thing as "Do you think this... is a good idea". That is not the correct question to ask anyway.
A reliable diode circuit requires current-limiting for each diode series. Without current limiting, a variety of problems affect the overall performance of the circuit. All of these problems relate to the fact that diodes vary, even diodes that are the same make and model. So if you have your heart set on a CXB3590 and you want to use several, they will not have the exact same Vforward at a given temperature. What's worse, they will have different temperature characteristics, so even if they started off with the same Vforward, unless your current is low, the devices will heat up, then the Vforward will vary. Finally, even if Vforward starts off the same, and even if these diodes have the same temperature characteristics, over time the diodes will change differently based on material properties, manufacturing tolerances, cosmic rays, you name it. Eventually, these diodes that started off exactly the same, will not be the same.
Who cares? As long as they light up I don't care what old guy says!
That is the problem. If the diodes start off similar enough, or if the current is very low compared to Imax for the diode, then they will probably light up initially. Sooner or later, they will not all light up. This will happen because the difference between Vforward is eventually sufficient that one or more diodes never light up. When this happens, any diode that did light up is taking all the current the power supply will provide.
The simplest case is two identical diodes in parallel. Let's suppose that Vcc is slightly greater than Vforward, and that Icc is equal to the maximum rated diode current Imax. Since there is two diodes in parallel, each diode should see half that current. Typically, 50% Imax is Itest for the diode in the manufacturer sheets, but Cree normally uses 2/3 Imax and that would be worse. Let's assume that due to current limiting for the entire circuit only Imax can flow.
If the Vforward for the two diodes is different more than about a volt, then the diode with lower Vforward will turn on while the other diode is off. It will literally take all of the supplied current. So that diode is on at 100%, and the other diode is off. Unless the diode is thermally able to sink the entire Imax for the amount of time it is on, it will eventually fail. When it fails, the other diode will light up, for a minute, then it too will get hot and fail because it is not thermally able to run at Imax for an extended period either.
If you design your parallel circuits so that each diode can withstand Icc indefinitely and can also dissipate the heat associated with operating at Icc, then you so over-designed your lamp. Your money would be better spent designing the lamp right, so that all the parts are running "in the sweet spot", not maxed-out or under-utilized.
In order to have current limiting in each parallel branch of a diode circuit, you need:
1) a driver per branch, or
2) a channel of an n-channel driver per branch, or
3) a current-limiting driver for the circuit, and then different current limiting per branch.
I think approach one is obvious. It is what most people try. The problem is that drivers are expensive and the reason that most people want to parallel diodes is that they think they can use only one driver for the circuit.
Approach two is not utilized enough in the DIY lamps I see. If you want parallel diodes, then get a two channel (or however many channel) driver. These will normally be cheaper for n=2 outputs, and normally much cheaper for n>2 outputs, vs. discrete driver per branch. The reason is that multi-channel drivers share a good bit of stuffs on the inside so there is your savings.
Approach three may be of interest to some DIY's because the idea is to use one driver for an entire diode circuit. This will provide good quality current limiting to the circuit and achieves this at one driver per lamp. Then, realize current limiting in a branch differently. For example, a suitable fuse would work. The idea is not to prevent the diode from running higher than its normal Idiode. The driver protecting the entire circuit is doing that when things are working OK. The purpose of the fuse is to current limit to Imax, NOT Idiode. That makes his job very easy, and very cheap to do. So if you want to run three of those Cree bad boys in parallel, and your driver can provide 5A, put a 2A fuse per branch plus your driver for the whole circuit and then no diode sees more than 2A and the average is the design current 5/3 A. If you want to do this, be sure to check the voltage rating to see it is more (considerably more is fine) than Vforward, and that the sustainable forward current is more than your desired diode current. These devices cost about $1, so the cost is the one driver plus three fuses, plus your time if you blow fuses and you are too cheap to buy fuse sockets. Hey a $1 fuse and a $1 fuse holder is better than a $40 COB or a $60 Meanwell driver.
Anyway, the correct question to ask when you want to use some specific diode and some driver is "How can I effectively use these ill-suited parts I selected mostly on the basis of stoner website posts to grow some weed". I'd buy a few fuses and use approach three.
Peace!