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Snype's Guide To Kill Spider Mites & Broad Mites With 100% Neem Oil!

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Snype

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Snype's Guide To Kill Spider Mites & Broad Mites With 100% Neem Oil!
A lot of growers think that they need to reach for some bottle of Dangerous Pesticide to get rid of their mites. This is simply not true. The problem is that if you are going to go the organic approach to getting rid of your mites, you have to stick to extreme schedules. Missing a day of your scheduled treatments means that you may have made a big mistake and now you will have to start your treatments all over again. Growers seem to want that 1 day fix when you just spray and everything is gone but that 1 day fix may cause you and your patients a lot more harm for your future health. No body ever said growing is not time consuming at certain times like this.

Temperature of your grow rooms can affect how fast your mites reach maturity and are able to lay eggs. It is best to research the specific mite that you have and learn their breeding cycles at the temperatures that your rooms are at so you can adjust them accordingly to perform your treatments.

I use 100% Dyna-Gro Pure Neem Oil. If the bottle of Neem Oil is not warm and not liquid, place the bottle of Neem Oil in warm water. When it turns to liquid, in 1 gallon of 70 degree water, mix:

2 Tablespoons Dyna-Gro 100% Pure Neem Oil
You also have to add Coco-Wet after you add the Neem Oil. I forget how much to use but I use the amount stated on the bottle. You have to use the coco-wet or the neem won't work.

Do not save your mixed solution. You have to make new solution every time you use it.

I don't know how big or small your plants are. If your plants can fit into a 5 gallon bucket, hold the pot upside down with your hand covering the soil so you don't spill all your soil and dunk your whole plant into the solution. Make sure the entire solution is very mixed. If it's not mixed you will see the neem oil at the top of the solution.

If your plants are too big, you will have to spray every area of the plant, including underneath the leaves and stem. You can't miss any space at all, including the top of the soil or medium. Clean your walls and area with bleach and water solution.

It is extremely important to remove your plants from the direct light when you are spraying. It is also extremely important that after you spray to keep your plants in the dark for 6 hours.

After your first treatment, you must apply a second treatment after 3 days. Then you must apply a 3rd treatment after another 3 days.

Your 4th treatment will be applied after 5 days of your 3rd treatment. Then apply treatments after every 5 days. Apply a total of 7 treatments and your Broad Mites & Spider Mites will be gone. Apply 1 final treatment after 7 days of your last treatment which will make 8 treatments. Clean your entire house and grow when you are applying these treatments so that you don't bring any more mites in with you. Remember to always put your clothes in the dryer on extra hot for 30 minutes to kill any mites or eggs that are on your clothes. Be very anal about everything. Never bring outside clothes into a grow room.

Always remember to turn off your lights for 6 hours after your treatments. It seems like a lot of work but that's life if you want your mites to completely disappear.

Here is some more information on Spider Mites that can help you with your research:

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/orn/twospotted_mite.htm

"Life Cycle
Spider mite development differs somewhat between species, but a typical life cycle is as follows. The eggs are attached to fine silk webbing and hatch in approximately three days. The life cycle is composed of the egg, the larva, two nymphal stages (protonymph and deutonymph) and the adult. The length of time from egg to adult varies greatly depending on temperature. Under optimum conditions (approximately 80ºF), spider mites complete their development in five to twenty days. There are many overlapping generations per year. The adult female lives two to four weeks and is capable of laying several hundred eggs during her life."

"Phytoseiulus persimilis is the most common predator and preys on all stages of mites (Osborne 1999). It can consume 20 eggs or five adults daily."

"The twospotted spider mite develops a resistance to most acaricides after prolonged use. Most miticides are not effective on eggs. Therefore two or more applications of the miticide will be required at five-day intervals during the summer or seven-day intervals during the winter."

Pictures coming one day...

For those considering using Neem as a soil drench, check out a thread on IC:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?threadid=2792
 
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Oliver Pantsoff

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Using just neem & a coco wetting agent will not get rid of broad mites...It will kill them, but not the eggs..Neem is more of a contact killer....

OP
 

Snype

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Using just neem & a coco wetting agent will not get rid of broad mites...It will kill them, but not the eggs..Neem is more of a contact killer....

OP

If you read the entire post you would see that there is a total of 8 treatments. Those treatments take over 30 days to complete and the eggs already hatched and you killed the new mites in time when they are not mature enough to breed. That's why all of my treatments are coordinated to a specific schedule.
 

Storm Shadow

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Neem Oil alone will not take care of BM's...unless your treating tiny ass clones you can keep dunking over and over....
 

Oliver Pantsoff

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If you read the entire post you would see that there is a total of 8 treatments. Those treatments take over 30 days to complete and the eggs already hatched and you killed the new mites in time when they are not mature enough to breed. That's why all of my treatments are coordinated to a specific schedule.

Yes, I read the entire post...No disrepect, but I know for a fact that neem alone will not get rid of them...Maybe "spider" mites, but not broad mites. I dealt with these lil shits for over 2 yrs....Shit, I wish it was that easy....Hey, but whatever floats your boat...grow on:dance013:

OP
 

Snype

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Neem Oil alone will not take care of BM's...unless your treating tiny ass clones you can keep dunking over and over....
Here is a quote for you guys and then I will explain again:

http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/floriculture/images/10-10_Mites.pdf:

In general, development from egg to adult takes 4 to 6 days in the summer, and 7 to 10 days in the winter.


When you are organized enough to follow my schedule and details, then my treatments will work. The problem is that a lot of growers can't follow exact schedules.
 

Snype

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Mites and Pesticides are always a touchy subject here on ICMAG. No more trolling of the thread guys and gals. I guarantee that anyone who has tried to get rid of these mites in the past with Neem Oil, never had this tight schedule of treatments and missed a step or 2.
 

Granger2

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I have no experience [thank god] with Broad Mites. I have quite a bit with Spider Mites. I have won by treating every 36 hours with a dunk 3 times, and a 4th after 48 hours. At the same time I spray walls, floor, doors, containers incl. bottoms. Each time you dunk, you're washing off mites and eggs. Those remaining get hit before they can mature enough to lay eggs. And you're done in a week. I use Spinosad 1st 3 treatments, then Azasol for the 4th. Both need WETTING AGENT.

I'm going to buy a cheap blender for the purpose of emulsifying Neem Oil. I plan to use about a qt. of RO water. Start blender add 2 Tbl of Lecithin granules, wait till it disappears [emulsion] then add enough Neem Oil for 4 gal of mix. Let it emulsify, then add to 3 3/4 gal of RO. Use for dunking. If the Neem Oil doesn't completely emulsify, I'll add more Lecithin [natural food store or iherb.com].

I can't find emulsified Neem in the US. Ozzie keeps touting his success with Emulsified Neem that he gets Down Under. Way less messy, and cuts phytotoxicity to minimal at least.
 

anonymousgrow

Active member
I agree with everything cept your rigidity with sticking to using coco wet as an emulsifying agent and your rigidity regarding your schdule. There are many ways to emulsify neem oil into water. and Your schedule is I am sure correct at the temperature and humidity you keep your grow at. It must be considered though that mites can reach sexual maturity and reproduce in as little as a couple days from hatching or as long as a few weeks. The temperature and humidity play a role in how often you will need to repeat your spraying.

This is a great thread for new growers though. After getting in the habit of spraying with neem regularly, my gardens have always done better.

Cheers!
 

Snype

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I agree with everything cept your rigidity with sticking to using coco wet as an emulsifying agent and your rigidity regarding your schdule. There are many ways to emulsify neem oil into water. and Your schedule is I am sure correct at the temperature and humidity you keep your grow at. It must be considered though that mites can reach sexual maturity and reproduce in as little as a couple days from hatching or as long as a few weeks. The temperature and humidity play a role in how often you will need to repeat your spraying.

This is a great thread for new growers though. After getting in the habit of spraying with neem regularly, my gardens have always done better.

Cheers!
Coco Wet is all that I've ever used and have no experience with anything else. I'm not stating that it's the only thing that you can use but if I haven't used it, I can't really talk about it.

You are correct about temperatures and I need to edit that into the post. Temperature does play a roll and I believe the warmer it is, the faster they reach maturity but I think your room would have to be pretty hot for hatching and maturing in 2 days. Maybe you would agree if I added to lower your temperatures in the grow rooms to 70 Degrees F for the month of your treatments?
 

anonymousgrow

Active member
I would have to look it up again but I think some scientists found out that the magic number is 86 degrees f. Above that they really start to reproduce faster and eggs hatch much faster. But yeah generally speaking warmer spray more often cooler less often. Indoors, we usually stay relatively cool but my outdoor plants have been over 86 each day for most of their life.

I emulsify with liquid potassium silicate, in slightly warm water and stir the shit out of it with a drywall stirrer on a cordless drill. It doesn't matter how it is emulsified as long as it is.
 

Snype

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Snype how long does it take for the damage to stop? Does neem start helping immediately?

When you get rid of all the mites, the damage will stop. If you stick to the treatments, you should see damage at least slowing down, if not stop. Personally I haven't had to deal with mites in a couple of years.
 

Snype

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Found this through the OP's write up. Not sure if it's applicable to the situation I have, but worth further research.
http://www.evergreengrowers.com/amblyseius-fallacis-on-bean-leaves.html

I did try and use predator mites in the past, specifically Persimilis and I couldn't get rid of them personally. I think I had about 50,000 of the predators in a small 2,000 watt grow room.

One of the problems is that Spider Mites do well in a certain humidity and temperature so I have to change the temperature and humidity to slow down the Spider Mites which ends up being a poor environment for some predator mites. I'm not saying that Predator Mites shouldn't be tried if someone wants to. You may have success that way as well.
 

rasputin

The Mad Monk
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Potassium silicate does not suffice as an emulsifier.

Polysorbate 80. Use that instead. Thank spurr, not me.
 
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