Stress_test's Secret Recipe

I get asked everyday how I do certain things in the garden, or how I get plants to perform for different growing techniques, and conditions. Or how to do this or how to do that...

Well it really isn't a secret per-say because I always try and share methods and techniques that I learn, but sometimes I neglect to elaborate on something because it's just part of my routine and I don't always realize that I may be doing something that others do differently.

Last week I was working in a room I had designed and assembled from the materials that was immediately available. Nobody went out and purchased anything special for the construction or setup. Everything in the entire build was done with gear and materials that the co-op members had laying around in their attics, garages, basements, and yards (I think there are 11 patients). Anyway every member of the co-op has had a thousand questions about the setup and since I have to write it all down for them anyway, I just as well do it here where everybody may reference the information.

So in this thread I will discuss different techniques I use to manipulate plants into performing in different ways, depending on the various growing styles and setups I have supplied clones for over the years.
I will include pictures where I can to help, and I'll try and break each stage down into independent topics with links, as I explain them.

As the topics progress I will also be posting updates for a room that is designed to take advantage of the various methods and techniques being discussed. I am hoping that this will help elaborate visually how and why the setup works the way it does.

1.) Growing and Training Mother Plants (how and why)
2.) Cloners, various types and methods I use (which to use, why and when)
3.) Cloning and Nursery room setup
4.) Cloning for Flash Growing & Mini-Guerrilla patch (Here I will share a technique that I have discovered and mentioned a few times and why the process is different)
5.) Vegetative room setup
6.) Vegetative period
7.) Flash growing - 90 Days from Cut to Chop
8.) My nutrients and additives from beginning to end (what I use when and why)
9.) The Flowering room
10.) Watering for Accelerated growth.
11.) Using Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2) in the garden.
I would like to keep all discussion focused on the topic of the stages being discussed, so please help keep on topic?

Also: This is an outline and explanation of "MY" techniques and what works for "ME". So if you want more information about something specific, please ask me to elaborate because the whole purpose is sharing. BUT: I'm not going to get into any debates or arguments about other techniques, so please avoid engaging in contrary debates with other members.

In fact: I am asking our Mods < vonforne > < Brother Bear > < exploziv_gbb > to simply delete any argumentative or arbitrary posts simply to help keep the discussion focused on the topic.

(And I am still working on this and editing as I go. So if you quote my posts, please understand that I am editing and clarifying as you all indicate the need. Just don't get upset if you quote me and then it says something different the next time you look...)

1.) Growing and Training Mother Plants (how and why)

1.) Growing and Training Mother Plants (how and why)

1.) Growing and Training Mother Plants (how and why)

For several reasons I always try and start my mother plants from seed:
Partly because the genetics are stronger and I know exactly what the strain will do in the garden. But also because of the growth structure of seed plants vs clones.

For years the debate has continued about clones "losing" some of the strengths and characteristics of the parent genetics. Some believe that every generation a clone gets from the original it becomes weaker and more susceptible to stresses and pests.
Since I supply cutting for medical mj patients, co-ops, and dispensaries I try to ensure that the clones won't hermie and are free of pests and problems.
But just as importantly, a plant grown from seed has an important structure. The growth nodes oppose each other on the stem. This means that 1 cutting can be removed just above a node and 2 will replace it.

Once the seeds germinate, I keep em under cfl's for about 3 or 4 weeks or until they have about 6-8 nodes, then I begin bending and tying the stems down. Usually the stems are still soft enough that there's little worry about breaking.

The lower picture below is a Bubble Berry momma that I still have. She is older now, and much bigger and prettier. But I still keep her tied down and stretched out under the light. I'm pretty sure that I uploaded a newer picture of her to use in this thread, so when I do I'll remark and point her out so you all can see the results of bondage.

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Here she is: Momma Bubble Berry, freshly clipped but needs groomed.

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After they are bent over and tied down I place em about 3" - 4" beneath a 300watt 2700K CFL for a few days to allow the limbs to turn and grow upwards. Once each limb acquires 3 nodes I remove the fan leaves from the main stem.
Removing the fans too soon will slow the growth of the limbs because each leaf is a food factory for it's perspective limb. But once the limb has a couple leaves of it's own it can supply energy and convert nutrients to supply it self.

When a plant has multiple limbs, each with 3 or 4 nodes, I snip the tips of each limb to cause each one to fork.

Next the plant is moved onto a stadium (dimensions coming soon) with a bare bulb 400watt MH in front and 8 - 4' - T5's above.
The ceiling of my momma/veg room is a one piece unit measure 4'X8' and is constructed of 4 - 8' - T5 fixtures, fastened together at both ends and hinged/suspended from the ceiling by one end, with I-bolts, and pulley's on the other end to allow the entire ceiling to be lowered to the appropriate height. The top is insulated with 2" insulation to hold heat down in the winter and channel it above in hot weather.


(More details and pictures coming soon).


The lights are wired so that each set of 2 has it's own switch, allowing better control.

With the T5's above; the plants grow pretty slowly in height. However the limbs stretch horizontally toward the 400w MH in front, keeping the plant short vertically but with many horizontal limbs. (that is a 600w CFL in the pic because the 400MH was being used elsewhere when the pic was taken).

Because of the design of the overhead lights it was necessary to hang a white curtain across the front to reflect light and contain air-flow.

The exhaust for the momma/veg room is above the ceiling and exits out of a temperature and humidity controlled crawlspace fan. The temperature adjustment sucked from the factory so I had to replace it with one that is adjustable. The RH control though is "THE SHIT!" It allows me to adjust anyplace between 20 and 80 percent humidity and it's pretty accurate according to my other meters. They sell for about $90 now but I paid more for mine when I bought it because I didn't do alot of shopping.

All the books and videos I've seen say to keep mother plants in "low light" and don't feed em very much.
I've never had much luck with either concepts.
Although my momma plants are my treasures, they are also kept for production. I treat my "milk cows" just like part of the herd. They are fed at the same time and the same thing as all other plants in the room. And I try to give em as much light from different angles as I can. I want them bitches to grow more babies! FAST!

Because I have to keep my plant count perfectly legal due to inspection from LEO, I can't afford to keep plants around that don't produce. I also can't have 100 gallon pots for a plant because of room, it means that my mother plants need more limbs than roots.
I figured out that big plants don't necessarily need big pots to sustain them. They just need the right roots (all roots are not created equal) and the sustenance given at the appropriate time. 2 hours too soon or 45 minutes too late makes all the difference in the world. Well not our world, but the plants world. And the plant is supposed to be the focus.

2.) Cloners, various types and methods I use (Pros and Cons)

2.) Cloners, various types and methods I use (Pros and Cons)

The number one thing that causes most people problems with cloning (in my experience) is pH...
Most article advise adjusting pH anywhere between 5 and 7.5, some even show graphs and give long winded explanations why plants uptake various nutrients better at certain pH levels.

I prefer a pH of 7. Why you ask? Just cause it's neutral, kinda like myself on this topic.
PH just really isn't an issue when it applies to cloning. My tap water pH's between 8 and 9 on most days and works perfectly, with the exception that minerals in the water react with the medium and makes peat-moss or coco stink to high heaven.

Seriously! PH doesn't matter to clones.
The pH effects the availability and uptake of nutrients by the roots.
Clones don't have roots...

Now let's discuss some different types of cloners. If you want more information than I've provided please ask and I'll share what I know and update if somebody else can bitchslap me to jog my thought process.

These large aero-cloners work about as good as any commercially manufactured cloners do, but cost a fraction of the purchase price if you can build it yourself.

They can produce a steady stream of rooted clones. Ideal for perpetual growing operations, but seldom will all of the cuttings develop roots in the same time frame to allow them to be planted together.

They do have a few drawback though.
They are big, heavy and cumbersome when loaded and running. So you will want to be sure that it is exactly where you want it before you load it.
They are also quite noisy when operating.
So you will need a room to run it where noise isn't an issue or can be covered with an aquarium, water fountain, radio or some other ambient noise source.
They are also totally dependent on electricity.
This means that if they lose power for more than a couple of hours you have to lift the lid and spray by hand every hour or so.
Cleaning can be a hassle.
Because they are large and require a minimum of 12 gallons of water to operate, (this is because the water must cover the submersible pump), it is impossible to move them to drain. I haven't done it yet but I have considered elevating the tub and installing a petcock for draining.
I have found that chlorinated tap water is perfect for these because the chlorine aids in suppressing algae, I also add H2O2 for this purpose.
Once algae begins, the entire unit must be dismantled and thoroughly cleaned and bleached before it will produce healthy clones again.
The pump produces significant heat so attention must be paid in warm climates, or ice added to maintain operating temps.

Ideal for a commercial operation where a steady supply of clones is needed, but not really viable for a small grower, except for perpetual or a sog with many plants.

As you can see there are a lot of jet to clean when it's time.
I have 6 of these units, operating in 3 pumps, with 1 pump daisy-chained to 2 tubs. I run em with 3 in the back, elevated 3 feet off of the floor and return drains back into the front tubs on the bottom.
Approximately 200 rooted clones are removed daily. I remove them immediately when visible signs of root appears, because of state laws which consider it merely "plant parts" until it has 2 visible roots of 2 cm or approx. 3/4" length.

For cleaning the jets and PVC manifolds I have a few tubs in the carport filled with muriatic acid. The acid dissolves any algae, root debris, or mineral deposits inside the manifold or jets. Hand cleaning is just next to impossible.

Below is the ITC, (ice-tube-cloner), one of my favorites.
Anybody can produce rooted clones with these things. I personally own a couple hundred of em and a dedicated dishwasher to keep em clean.

These things are just about the ultimate cloner.
They are super small, hold 27 cuttings, require no power, require no additives or chemicals, and produce close to 100%.

I can fill a dozen of these and go deliver them the day I cut em. All I have to do is collect a deposit on the cloner and clean em when they come back.

I have had a couple is issues in the past where the cuttings failed to root, but it was always user over-site or neglect. Once the owner of a dispensary near Seattle failed to return one to the nursery and another time something got spilled in the water tub.

These units are almost fool-proof and nearly every cutting will root in 10 days or less and it costs under $10.

They are so cheap to buy, easy to maintain, near perfect success, and easy to use that we call em "replicators" around this part of the country. I just can't brag on this method enough for new cloners or people who have difficulty with cloning.

I really don't have much to add regarding disadvantages except that is can be a pain in the ass sometimes removing the clones once they are rooted. The tubes are exactly the perfect size for a penny to drop into, so a plunger made by screwing a penny to a dowel works fine.

If I could revise it in any manner though, I would make the tubes 1" in diameter. It would of course increase the footprint, but the trade would be worthwhile because they usually develop roots within 5 days. So unless you are ready to transplant them immediately, they tend to get root bound in the cloner. The extra diameter would buy a couple more days and facilitate unloading.

I have honestly never had a cutting fail to root with these, other than user error. However I have lost thousands of cutting due to being root bound and damaging them too badly during unloading.

Another bubble cloner, and another of my favorites.
Small and relatively quiet these units produce as close to 100% as is possible, with very little maintenance or expense.

These little bubble cloners are so easy that anybody can use them and consistently get cuttings to root.

Add water and a splash of hydrogen peroxide and start filling the holes with cuttings. They are literally that easy, five to ten days later there will be roots.

I use underground electrical tape on the outside to light proof the tub, and spray paint the top. The tape is great, it's 6" wide and pretty thick but still stretches easily to shape and form to the tub.

I make my own inserts out of styrofoam and poke a hole for the stem and then cut em nearly in half. Then when the cutting has roots I can easily snap the insert in half without damaging the roots.

The laws changed in my state about what constitutes a plant. Now anything with 2 roots 3/4 inch long is considered a plant, so I have to keep a closer eye on them and get em into cups right away.

Because these types of cloners generate roots quickly and are easily inspected, I am considering discontinuing the use of them.
LEO can and does inspect cloners for rooted cuttings, but they can't do anything that may cause damage to them. So the Ice-tube cloners are a better option for me because they can't be inspected without risk of damage.

3.) Cloning and Nursery room setup

3.) Cloning and Nursery room setup

RESERVED​

One of the cheapest, easiest, compact cloner ideas I've seen in ages. The person who thought of using an Ice-tube-tray for a cloner was a stoner for sure.
It's not the fastest cloner, or even the best, but it's damn sure the smallest and easiest setup I have used. I typically get 98% from it in as fast as 3 days sometimes, but I had it loaded for nearly a month once with some LGS that took forever.
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54 cuttings in the same space that 4 would usually take up.
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That load was one of the first I made with those, in 3 days probably 10% had "some" roots, and all were ready for cups in 10 days.
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More updates and additions on the way.

4.) Cloning for Flash Growing & Mini-Guerrilla patch (why the process is different)

4.) Cloning for Flash Growing & Mini-Guerrilla patch (why the process is different)

4.) Cloning for Flash Growing & Mini-Guerrilla patch

In this section I will explain step by step various techniques and equipment that I use for different types of cloning.

Here is a new technique that I have learned which develops roots within 48 hours after cutting.

Not only does this method generate roots unbelievably faster than any other method I have used: it creates plants that grow in hyper-drive in the right setup.

Combined with a stadium and hydroponics or aeroponics I do not believe that any other method will out grow or out yield this process.

I doubt that it needs said but if you do not understand any portion of this please ask for clarification? Because the whole point is to communicate the concept and the process.

7 days before you're ready to take cuttings from a mother plant, select as many cuttings as possible and mark them. The selections can be quite small because the mom will grow super fast for the next 7 days. Using a small pair of needle nose pliers, gently squeeze the stem at each mark, just until it wants to collapse but will still support it's own weight. And it's not a disaster if you over do it a little bit cause a zip-tie and stick will hold it for 7 days.
Next mix up some root-toner and K-Y Jelly and just a drop or 2 of sterile water. Using an artists paintbrush goober the paste over each spot you marked.
Then move her to a blooming room. The blooming room is set for 16 hours of light and 8 hours of dark. Temps are held at about 75-85F and 30-50% RH with good air circulation. Immediately spray her down with 1/4 cup of H2O2 in a quart of water, and she will be misted daily with this. I first used H2O2 spray to kill PM, but after I saw what the plants do I've used it regularly ever since.
It's a huge difference in the light and the nutrients. I use the stadium with 4 - 300w, 2700K CFL's and these mothers are fed 30-30-30 in daily doses for the 7 days. By "daily doses" I mean: Just enough to keep 24hrs and be ready for more.
Twice a day mist each plant, taking care to dampen, but not wash away the spots of paste at each place you'll take a cutting.

The result will be a plant that begins stacking nodes really tight together, the boost in P & K supplies the proper nutrients to encourage blooming. Sufficient nitrogen is available to allow her to stretch and still stack tightly.

Now you're ready to cut your clones.
It's really a tough and painstaking task. Reach in with a pair of scissors and start snipping every place you put KY goobers. Nothing fancy, but don't let those goobers get on your skin. It'll root there.

Next count the cuttings and fill as many cups with medium or fine grade vermiculite, (I usually try and get 9oz, they use less medium and it's easier to rinse out of the roots later, but it's getting harder to find em. Also make sure that 1/5 of the cups are clear plastic). Set the cups in a pan full of water, (you can't really overdo the water because the cups will float). Anyway when the vermiculite at the top of the cup is wet, stab a hole in each with a pencil and pop on a dome lid then drop in a cutting.
Using a spray bottle set to a good spray (not a blasting stream), gently position the cutting as deep as you can and wash the vermiculite in onto the stem.
Set the cups on a rack to drip for awhile and move em back into the blooming room until they have roots.

Now everybody is wondering what's so funny right? Well let's just say that when you get to this stage of the process, you will be laughing also. Because most of the cuttings will have visible roots or nubbins showing when you cut them.
Withing 48 hours 90% of the cuttings done this way will have roots like the one in the picture below (36hrs from cutting). And I've never seen a cutting fail to root doing this.

The domed lid is important, but I don't always use it, depending on humidity and season: it keeps moisture in and any pests out, but the high humidity inside, above the vermiculite is also conditioning the stem. Once roots are visible in all of the clear cups, the clones are ready to have the vermiculite rinsed from their roots and moved to hydro, aero, soil or whatever medium you'll be growing them in. And you have 2 day old clones that are ready to flower or veg.

5.) Vegetative room setup

5.) Vegetative room setup

I have been giving this part of the process considerable thought, because I don't really run a "vegetative cycle" for most of my setups, since most of the plants in my setups only live for 9 or 10 weeks before chops.

However, I did want to touch on the subject for those peeps who do and because I wanted to plant a thought in the back of the minds of some of the more experienced growers who are looking to increase yield.

So here is my thoughts and experience regarding the vegetative cycle and setup.

First of all I want to go over the basic setup of the room and why...

Stadium!
Why? Because technology has evolved since the old caveman method of growing on a flat floor where the outer perimeter of the room receives diminished light and stretches toward it while the upper canopy shades the lower portions of the plants.
A stadium places the lights besides the plants and allows direct light to reach every portion of the plant with full intensity.

I also wanted to point out that during the veg cycle is a perfect chance to dial in the amount of water each pot/plant will consume in a 24 hour period.

Somebody sent me a PM and commented that my pots are nearly dry almost half the time, and suggested that the plants would do better if I kept the soil wet, or at least moist all the time.

The watering cycle is a crucial part of the flash growing technique. Hydroponics and aeroponics growers have known for years that the faster a system can go from wet to nearly dry and wet again, the faster and bigger buds will grow and begin to firm, my technique uses that same concept.

Although with soil we have a substantial advantage: Soil acts as a buffer which helps roots dramatically if the PH is off a little or the nutrient solution is slightly hot.

If the mother plants are grown correctly and the limbs have tightly stacked nodes, only a few days of veg are needed to encourage the clones to stretch toward the light. Then once they are flipped 12/12 the young plants stretch out even more because the light fully penetrates the canopy and reaches every node.

6.) Vegetative period

6.) Vegetative period

6.) Vegetative period

7.) Flash growing - 90 Days from Cut to Chop

7.) Flash growing - 90 Days from Cut to Chop

7.) Flash growing - 90 Days from Cut to Chop

In this section I will explain a process that produces surprising yields in 90 day for cutting the clone. Strain dependent of course, however the pictures of the room used in the thread has at least 8 strains in it.

I happened onto this method somewhat by accident. I had cleared a room for a dispensary and redesigned it for an open window stadium, so that visitors could see the room and plants in action.
However, I got sick and was delayed a couple of weeks and the owner had left a couple flats of my clones on a shelf of the stadium while I was gone. Nobody even realized that the timers were still set for 12/12 and the clones went wild.

Since then I have honed and fine tuned the technique to a point where I am ready to share it with the world and hope that somebody else may help improve on it.

Partial credit for this method really goes to Laylow and to a friend who is no longer on ICMag ~Lola~ because portions were inspired by their methods and the knowledge they so willingly shared with all of us. (I bet their ears are ringin'...)

Transplanted into soil in 6" pots and moved back into the flower room they are impressive 3 day old clones.

The room above is 11'X16", I designed and built the stadium and I'll elaborate on dimensions and materials later. But for now a brief description will do: Each shelf is a piece of rigid 12" wide snap-lok metal roofing. I cut em with an abrasive blade in a skilsaw 3 feet shorter than the room on the door end. The 12" wide metal has a rib 1/2" X 1" on each side, making in a perfect trough shaped shelf. Because one end is elevated slightly, each shelf drains through a hose into a single drain bucket on each side that is emptied and cleaned daily.

And 16 days after you cut your clones they will be rockin' your flower room like you won't believe. You'll think somebody is switching plants on ya. Your clones are a full month or more ahead of clones created using any other technique.

26 days after cutting your clones you will be dancing and wanting to break Pot Growers Rule #1 and show your results to everybody you meet. I strongly suggest that when this occurs, you return here and show us instead of your the gal at the Rainbow room's drive-up window.

That's right... Those are 26 day old clones in 6" nursery cups. Who woulda thunk it huh?

9.) The Flowering room

9.) The Flowering room

9.) The Flowering room

Due to the volume of information that needs to be covered in this area I have decided to cover it briefly here and then cover it in detail in another thread and link from here.
My idea is to post a grow diary of a room where this technique is being used. The room I have in mind has experienced PM and a rigorous H2O2 program so it should be a perfect model to help explain some of the precautions and equipment setup that are important here.


Below is a 33 day old LGS (Northern Lights X Super Skunk) clone.

Watering for axcellerated growth

Watering for axcellerated growth

The best method I have found that is fast, easy, and accurate, is to use a measuring cup and water in 2 stages, by weight. First weigh a pot filled with dried soil. I usually suggest that they fill an extra pot, water it and allow it to dry. This will give you a comparison to judge the weight by.

Next, water in 2 stages: First is just a fast "wetting" of the soil: Using fresh, pH'ed water; pour 1/4 of the pots volume in and move on to the next, most of the initial water will flow through and out the bottom. But it will wet the soil and help wash any accumulated salts and soak the soil in the bottom of the pot enough that it will hold water.

Once all the plants are watered, wait 5 minutes and start again at the first pot: Using your nutrient solution; pour in 1/4 the pots volume and you are done.

From experience I know that a 6" pot will weigh just under 2.5 lbs. I usually suggest filling them to a dry weight of 2.25 lbs and water when the weight is below 2.5#.
A pint is a pound... So 1 pint of water weighs 1 pound. And .25 pints/pounds is 4 ounces. If you water @ 2.5# then the pot still contains approx 4oz of water, watering above 2.25 and below 2.5# is ideal because the soil will still be slightly moist but not dry enough to harm the roots.

A 16oz beer cup weighs slightly under 4oz when it's dry. I water them at exactly 4 ounces. Any lighter will cause root damage, heavier is too soon and will hinder uptake of water and nutrients.

It might take a couple waterings, but the goal is to adjust the amount so that each plant only gets enough to sustain it for the next 24 hours, and then it's dry and thirsty for more. This technique allows the soil to dry quickly and while it does require more frequent feeding/watering, the faster cycle promotes healthier roots and plants, and allows you to supply the plant with more water and nutrients than the conventional alternate watering/feeding because you can feed every watering cycle, it also eliminates any necessity to flush until the plants are ready to finish. It also nearly eliminates the possibility of over-watering and it reduces nutrient waste from over feeding and flushing to 0%...

Nutrients:

I have used this recipe with absolutely fabulous results for years.

I use it on my plants from the time they have roots until they are flipped 12/12.
And all the way through harvest with a couple minor changes.

Nutrient/water schedule: Daily, by weight, as needed.
Nutrient recipe:
16 crushed Aspirin,
3/8 cup Brer Rabbit Molasses, (8Tbs)
8 tsp Jack's Classic All Purpose (20-20-20),
3 Tbls Epsom Salt,
8 Tbls Lilly Miller Vitamin B1 Plant Starter.
Mixed in 3 cups hot water (boiling hot) to dissolve solids.
Makes 1 quart concentrate. Stored in Refer.
Mixes 16 Gal. @ 1/4 cup per gallon.

Once flipped 12/12 for flower the JC's nute is changed to 2 Teaspoons Green Light, Super Bloom (12-55-6) per gallon (16 tsp).

Using this recipe I have never had to flush a plant due to lock-out or salt buildup. Never.

I begin feeding using this recipe immediately upon transplanting into soil. I'm sorry to all the hydro folks out there, but I only use aero for cloning and haven't evaluated or experimented using it for anything other than soil. However considering the technique I use when watering, I see no reason it won't work perfectly for some hydro setups.

If I'm going to veg the plants, I change the nutrients over to flower about a week prior to changing the lights. I've found that it eliminates most of the stretch later and the buds begin developing immediately when the lights are changed.

You'll notice that the lower leaves and the bigger fans begin yellowing slightly about the time you flip.

I mix and boil my recipe every weekend and store it in a lil refrigerator until used. I mix 55 gallons twice a week in a reservoir I made from a 55gal food barrel. Inside I have a 850gph submersible pump, attached to the pvc riser and spigot. 3" above the pump there is a series of 1/4" holes drilled in the pvc with snug-fitting collars that will slide down to cover the holes.
Their purpose is to mix and aerate the solution, but they also prevent the pump from being dead-headed and burning up if the hose or valve are closed.

The business end is a cheap plastic nozzle that I made lil barbs on with a sharp knife to grip the 3/8" surgical rubber tubing, when slipped over it.
I had one of those "water willy" clamps on the end of the tubing and it worked perfectly for controlling the flow when watering. But I snagged it and broke it last week, which sucks cause they are seasonal at the stores and I never picked up any extras.

Many people neglect or just fail to consider the temperature of the water going to the roots. I have found that plants accelerate growth and uptake of nutrients, if the soil temp is around 70*F and the water is slightly warmer, like 75*F.
HOWEVER: last winter I attempted a side-by-side of warm vs cool and the results indicated that cooler root temperatures in the 60*F range promotes far more resin production if watered with 75*F solution. However I was unable to finish the experiment and the results were inconclusive.

Irregardless of the pot size the amount of water and nutrients being given should never exceed what the plant will utilize in a 24 hour period.

Years ago I used to try and find ways to supply more water to my plants so I could take a break or even go fishing/camping for the weekend, but I was always over watering plants or fighting lock-out, or overdose, or just not getting back in time and they died from dehydration/starvation.
Now I seldom, if ever lose a plant due to water/nutrient related problems. Because I am resolved to the fact that I just have to feed/water every day. (But I'm currently working on a cheat for that as well.)

Whoever the Mod was who set us free.

dansbuds said:

Dude ... this is going to be great . i've been wanting to pick your brain on quite a few things & here it is all laid out for us . thank you so very much !!!

Click to expand...

Hey man I know cause I get asked all the time about some of this stuff. So I finally decided I had to write it down and then go back and edit, filling in more detail each time.

With everybody here helping and asking questions then it should make it easier. It's just difficult sometimes to try and explain something that I may not realize needs more explanation.

That sounds stupid I know but it's just how my brain is wired.

Dude ... this is going to be great . i've been wanting to pick your brain on quite a few things & here it is all laid out for us . thank you so very much !!!

those lights that you can lower are ingenious...good work!
and your excellerated cloning is perfect for cashcroppers (or anyone who wants to hurry things along)...
fill in the gaps...i know you were up all night getting this installed, but leaving out parts is gonna bite you ita...besides i wanted to know your nutrient regimen...and possibly your medium recipe.
all good shit brother! keep posting. you may see a sticky as a result.

oh btw, thank you for updating and filling in some gaps! exemplary work.

trichrider said:

those lights that you can lower are ingenious...good work!
and your excellerated cloning is perfect for cashcroppers (or anyone who wants to hurry things along)...
fill in the gaps...i know you were up all night getting this installed, but leaving out parts is gonna bite you ita...besides i wanted to know your nutrient regimen...and possibly your medium recipe.
all good shit brother! keep posting. you may see a sticky as a result.

Click to expand...

Hey wait! Thanks for your feedback!
I ain't done yet! LOL. That accelerated cloning kicks azz for ANY type of grow. I'll explain more as I keep filling in the blanks, but if you make your clones using this method and veg them just like you normally do, these clones with flat leave others in the shadows.
I've used the same technique in a bubbler and it is still many faster than conventional methods.

Anyway, I was up all night with pneumonia, so I can't even smoke a bowl to get rid of the head ache and fall asleep. But I gotta give me eyeballs a break.

Partial credit for this method really goes to Laylow and to a friend who is no longer on ICMag ~Lola~ because portions were inspired by their methods and the knowledge they so willingly shared with all of us. (I bet their ears are ringin'...)

Click to expand...

I remember that thread ....was going to give it a try but musta slipped my mind .I don't remember her pinching the stems with needle nose though but no biggie cuz it looks like you perfected it & are layin it out for us .... cool
1 qiuck question .... in the walmart cloner it looks like coco not vermiculite ... was going to try that next cuz i'm growing in coco now , but if not vermiculite workd great & i can wash it off the roots like you .

this will defenatly be a sticky by the time its done !!!

dansbuds said:

I remember that thread ....was going to give it a try but musta slipped my mind .I don't remember her pinching the stems with needle nose though but no biggie cuz it looks like you perfected it & are layin it out for us .... cool
1 qiuck question .... in the walmart cloner it looks like coco not vermiculite ... was going to try that next cuz i'm growing in coco now , but if not vermiculite workd great & i can wash it off the roots like you .

this will defenatly be a sticky by the time its done !!!

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I'm gonna work some more on this thread later after work.

That particular run was done in peat-moss... Just pure old peat-moss.
It was part of the experimental process I went thru because I deal with so many people who all use different growing methods. Since many grow in soil and don't want to risk damage due to a root-wash, I needed to know how the process works with all types of growing medium.

A fine grade of pure peat-moss works great, as does sifted coco. BUT: I had some issues with both reacting with my local water supply and causing a stench that had me searching for dead, decaying critters.
It never went away until the plants were chopped. But because so many people are growing my clones I just couldn't have anybody saying "ST's clones stink"... LOL

I settled on vermiculite because it is completely universal for any growing medium, and for soil, doesn't even need to be root-washed, just pop em straight into your soil mixture.

A fine grade of pure peat-moss works great, as does sifted coco

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great to hear .... gonna try it this next cloning session ... only on a few as an experiment . the ones i defenatly want to run i'll keep in vermiculite for now till i try it . thanx dude .

Fine thread this one is.
At the moment i don´t have the right mind set to contribute to it but i promise to be back.
Thanks Stress_test for taking the time for this one!

paulo73 said:

Fine thread this one is.
At the moment i don´t have the right mind set to contribute to it but i promise to be back.
Thanks Stress_test for taking the time for this one!

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Thanks Paul, your input and wisdom are always appreciated man.

Sometimes my job is totally frustrating...

This stadium is full of beautiful plants.
Nine different strains, all cut and groomed for a flash grow and exceeding anybody's expectations, and the members of the co-op can't scrape a few dollars and 30 minutes together to go get some GreenCure to kill the remaining PM in the room.

I began a hydrogen peroxide spraying regime when the plants went into the room because of mites and pm, but they are developing faster than they had anticipated. So now the buds are beginning to reach the point where spraying more water is going to risk bud rot.

It goes against my rule of not spending my own money on other peoples rooms, equipment, or problems, but in this case I will probably go buy it if they haven't got it by my next visit. It really does hurt your feelings to see such beautiful plants being consumed by something so easily corrected.