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My first post and my first cab

Batboy

Member
I have one successful grow under my belt (CFL only), and now I’d like to step things up and do it right by using a cab and buying a HPS light and fan/filter. While cost is certainly a factor, stealth is more of a factor; so I am willing to pay a little more for equipment that fits and keeps things quieter and odorless. My first grow (under the stairs) was cut a bit short because I completely lost control over the scent of 2 lowryders that were each under 1 foot tall! I now have a healthy respect for the smell. I should also point out that I am not much of a DIY guy, so hopefully we can keep things straightforward with as few chances as possible for me to electrocute myself or drive a drill bit through my hand.

I will be using an older, store-bought entertainment center. My interior dimensions are 4.3’Hx3.3’Wx2’D (28.4 cubic feet). I would like to grow 2-4 plants in soil. The room the cab will be in is an unfinished basement with a concrete floor. Temps stay between 60-70 all year. From my research here and on other sites, I think that I have settled on 400wHPS (possibly MH for veg), passive intake, quiet inline fan, air cooled light and carbon filter. I think that I'm going to have to go 6" fan/filter/ducting in order to keep things quiet, cool and odorless; if you think that I'm better off going 4", please let me know.

Right now here's the equipment I'm considering. Comments/criticism are welcome.

Xtrasun convertible 400w ballast - I think this is digital, no?
Hydrofarm 6" Cooltube w/ reflector wings
HPS and MH bulbs
S&P TD-150 6" mixed vent inline fan, 293cfm at no resistance (not sure what the true CFMs are once I add the filter)
S&P SC-15 speed controller

I am looking for filter recommendations to marry to the S&P fan. I really need something on the small side if I have any hope of fitting it the way I plan. Small, but of course it has to work! See the attached diagram. This is supposed to be a bird's eye view as if you are looking down through the top of the cab. As you can see, I may not be able to fit an 8.5" wide fan next to a centered light, given that the cab is 24" wide. Ballast will be outside the cab.

Thoughts?
 

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FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
Lamps throw precious little light forward or aft, only to the sides. Hanging the lamp perpendicular to the length of your grow allows you to lower the lamp while increasing the footprint.



I LOVE my S&P but they just don't suck like a Vortex. Especially with bends in the line. Whatever CFM you need, consider the next larger model instead.

DIY Scrubber for Dummies works GREAT!

Welcome aboard. :wave: FB
 

Batboy

Member
Great information FreezerBoy. I would have never thought that I'd get better light coverage by hanging the light perpendicular to the width of the cab. I don't know that it will work for me though because my depth is only 24" -- with 6" duct coming out of both ends, it might just be too long. Maybe I'll hang it diagonally. . .

I'm still deciding on the reflector. Right now it's between the cooltube with wings or the Super Sun 2.

Regardling the fan and filter. Does anyone have any thoughts on combining the S&P TD-150 with a Can33? Remember that the cab is only 29 cubic feet.
 

Dr Dog

Sharks have a week dedicated to me
Veteran
I cannot comment on teh S&P as I have never used one, but I have the cool tube, and I love it
 
M

MRJackHerrer

can 33 too big. can 9000 142cfm better match with sp150
 
M

MRJackHerrer

O.K. well of course not too big :laughing: but for your application and stealth being a factor take into consideration cutting the fan speed in half with the speed controller then choking it down even further with a right angle bend in the ducting and the small size of the cab etc. id downsize the 33:joint:
 

Batboy

Member
MRJ - you manke a good point about the fan possibly being a little weak for the Can 33. Now I'm not sure what to do.

The Can 9000 is BIG (twice as long as the 33), which limits design options. The 9000 comes with a 4" or 5" flange, which means that I'd need to convert it to 6", which I understands adds to the noise. On the topic of stealth, obviously stealth includes odor. The 9000 has 27% less carbon. Can it handle stinky plants in a 29 cubic foot room?
 

FreezerBoy

Was blind but now IC Puckbunny in Training
Veteran
I LOVE my S&P but they just don't suck like a Vortex.

The DFS4 may be of some interest to you. Also consider DIY
 
Hey Batboy how's it going mate. Welcome to ICmag! Great people here.

My last cab had an S&P in it! I too recommend their brand, great systems!

FreezerBoy is right of course, they DON"T suck like a vortex, especially when obstructed or resisted - but they are much, much more quiet. Any quieter, and you're paying some truly premium prices.

Good luck man we're here to see you succeed.
BH

Edit: If you're running into space issues, and security isn't #1, you could consider putting your fan on the exterior, with the scrubber on the inside of the box. Just a thought.
 
M

MRJackHerrer

just a thought... the can 33 is a huge filter really. it weighs 12 lbs is 12 inches in diameter. the 9000 weighs half that and is only 6 inches around. it is longer but overall a lot smaller filter. basically you want to cycle the air in the cab once every minute to make sure that smell doesnt escape and become a problem. this will depend on the stank of the strain of course but generally a good rule to go by. if you have 27 square feet like you say 100 cfm will cycle a little over 3 times a minute and be totally adequate for what you want to do. getting a reducer shouldnt make that much difference in noise. i've seen some people use a rubber reducer (6" to 4") designed for plumbing that helps with the reduction of vibration as well. these are available at any home improvement center.
 
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I always assumed that 'X' amount of air running through 6" ducting will generally always be quieter than 'X' amount of air forced to compress itself running through 4" ducting.
 

Batboy

Member
wall flange

wall flange

Lowes and Home Depot failed me this weekend. I am looking for what I think is called a through-wall flange. I was shocked to learn that this isn't a common item.

Basically, I am just looking for something that will fit inside the hole that I will drill in the top of my cab to which I can attach my exhaust duct. I thougtht that this is what people do, as opposed to having the ducting coming right out of the cab and then having to worry about sealing it up in such a way as to keep it air tight.

On that topic, can anyone recommend a Lowes/HD available product that I should be using to make an air tight seal? Some foam or sealant? If I am using holes in the back for passive intake to which I will attach pvc pipe to keep the light out/in, what's a good product to connect that pipe?
 

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