G
Guest
For me, it's that time of year where Im planning out next years grow and obtaining the items needed to conduct the grow. At the top of the list is the purchase of those seeds that have been selected for the grow.
My first few grows of store bought seeds were less than stellar, but as time went by, I developed a list of criteria for seed purchasing that greatly increased my outdoor growing effectiveness and the results observed on Oct. 1. I thought it might be helpful to others to list those criteria and I may learn from others through hearing their criteria.
My criteria are enumerated by importance.
Maturation information: The most potent, vigorous, heavy yeilding strain on the planet is useless if it won't finish at your lattitude and all of your efforts, hopes and weed will die with the first snows. Mistakingly choosing a strain that won't finish always results in a failed and wasted grow effort regardless of any other factors. This mistake is fatal.
Having said that, OD maturation dates are often difficult to discern and apply to your lattitude, especially on new and untested crosses. If I don't know a strain that Im interested in, I will look for the listed days to maturity. I need to be harvested by Oct. 21st and out of many purchased strains, any that matured in 45-55 days have always matured in plenty of time for me. Starting at about 65 days to maturity, I start to be aprehehsive. I always add 7- 14 days to what the breeder states as maturation date
I grow strains that I don't know well, but never as my primary grow. Ill throw a seed or two out during the summer to see how and when they flower, but I would never bet my whole grow on a strain that finish date is questionable.
Breeders Descriptions: Ive come to learn that the language breeders use is telling. "Untested outdoors" means the breeder doesn't have a clue as to the behavior of the plant outdoors and you cant either. It may do well outdoors, but again, I wouldnt bet my main crop on the potential. Make sure your grow is based upon more than hope.
"Indoor". I tread lightly here and generally when I buy "indoor" seeds to grow outdoor, I will at least have a few grow reports indicating that it will do well outdoors. "indoor" can mean anything from the plant is acclimated to 12/12, "we just don't know" what will happen outside
I generally avoid breeders and strains that utilize language like , "Numerous Pheno's" or "each plant is special" offerings like the plague. This usually means the breeder has bred 2 very dominant strains and each of the offspring is a battle between the 2 genetic giants for dominance. The result is always going to be "god only knows what youre going to find" result. Treasure hunters love these strains, but there is truly no substitute regaurding results, for having knowledge and understanding of the strains you intend to grow.
Im likely to avoid breeders that provide no outdoor information. This usually means the same thing as "untested". The breeder really only knows the potency of the plant and its behavior under a completely artificial enviroment, but nothing of its true nature/stature or behavior.
Location, Location, Location. This year I intend to grow femmed big bud. I have a number of locations that I grow in. I have 1 location that is in a river valley with deep rich soil and the plants get huge. It also stays heavy with fog and dew until 10 am. and cold air settles in low lying areas in the fall. If I plant my big bud here, ive wasted all of my money and effort as mould will destroy the plants. I have another location that is on a knob that gets full all day sun, but the wind is attrocious here at times. If I plant my big bud here, when reaching maturity the wind at this location will destroy the huge buds and the plants they are growing on.
No, I need to plant the BB in an are that isn't low lying or windy, but sheltered.
Always choose your locations before choosing your strain. I have 7 different grow sites and each one has qualites that provide indications for strain selection. Whenever I purchase a strain, I know geographically where I intend to plant that strain. I see unknown strains that interest me and i buy them, but again ill test these out before betting my entire grow and all of this years smoke on the hope that they will perform in an outdoor setting.
Color and Size: Color for the OD gardener can be important. Ive allways wanted to grow blueberry outdoors here, but the simple fact is is that there isn't a single natural plant in my enviroment that is blue, red, yellow and green which is the maturing color of BB. It would stick out like a sore thumb.
Size can be so difficult to determine because it depends all most as much on the soil and sun as it does the strain. Perhaps more so. Over time, Ive discovered that most "compact" strains grow to 5 -6 feet. Medium strains grow to about 8' and large can be LARGE. Depending upon your grow location and the size of the concealing vegetation, choosing the wrong strain can be fatal.
These are the considerations I make but Im sure others have their own criteria. Lets here some.
My first few grows of store bought seeds were less than stellar, but as time went by, I developed a list of criteria for seed purchasing that greatly increased my outdoor growing effectiveness and the results observed on Oct. 1. I thought it might be helpful to others to list those criteria and I may learn from others through hearing their criteria.
My criteria are enumerated by importance.
Maturation information: The most potent, vigorous, heavy yeilding strain on the planet is useless if it won't finish at your lattitude and all of your efforts, hopes and weed will die with the first snows. Mistakingly choosing a strain that won't finish always results in a failed and wasted grow effort regardless of any other factors. This mistake is fatal.
Having said that, OD maturation dates are often difficult to discern and apply to your lattitude, especially on new and untested crosses. If I don't know a strain that Im interested in, I will look for the listed days to maturity. I need to be harvested by Oct. 21st and out of many purchased strains, any that matured in 45-55 days have always matured in plenty of time for me. Starting at about 65 days to maturity, I start to be aprehehsive. I always add 7- 14 days to what the breeder states as maturation date
I grow strains that I don't know well, but never as my primary grow. Ill throw a seed or two out during the summer to see how and when they flower, but I would never bet my whole grow on a strain that finish date is questionable.
Breeders Descriptions: Ive come to learn that the language breeders use is telling. "Untested outdoors" means the breeder doesn't have a clue as to the behavior of the plant outdoors and you cant either. It may do well outdoors, but again, I wouldnt bet my main crop on the potential. Make sure your grow is based upon more than hope.
"Indoor". I tread lightly here and generally when I buy "indoor" seeds to grow outdoor, I will at least have a few grow reports indicating that it will do well outdoors. "indoor" can mean anything from the plant is acclimated to 12/12, "we just don't know" what will happen outside
I generally avoid breeders and strains that utilize language like , "Numerous Pheno's" or "each plant is special" offerings like the plague. This usually means the breeder has bred 2 very dominant strains and each of the offspring is a battle between the 2 genetic giants for dominance. The result is always going to be "god only knows what youre going to find" result. Treasure hunters love these strains, but there is truly no substitute regaurding results, for having knowledge and understanding of the strains you intend to grow.
Im likely to avoid breeders that provide no outdoor information. This usually means the same thing as "untested". The breeder really only knows the potency of the plant and its behavior under a completely artificial enviroment, but nothing of its true nature/stature or behavior.
Location, Location, Location. This year I intend to grow femmed big bud. I have a number of locations that I grow in. I have 1 location that is in a river valley with deep rich soil and the plants get huge. It also stays heavy with fog and dew until 10 am. and cold air settles in low lying areas in the fall. If I plant my big bud here, ive wasted all of my money and effort as mould will destroy the plants. I have another location that is on a knob that gets full all day sun, but the wind is attrocious here at times. If I plant my big bud here, when reaching maturity the wind at this location will destroy the huge buds and the plants they are growing on.
No, I need to plant the BB in an are that isn't low lying or windy, but sheltered.
Always choose your locations before choosing your strain. I have 7 different grow sites and each one has qualites that provide indications for strain selection. Whenever I purchase a strain, I know geographically where I intend to plant that strain. I see unknown strains that interest me and i buy them, but again ill test these out before betting my entire grow and all of this years smoke on the hope that they will perform in an outdoor setting.
Color and Size: Color for the OD gardener can be important. Ive allways wanted to grow blueberry outdoors here, but the simple fact is is that there isn't a single natural plant in my enviroment that is blue, red, yellow and green which is the maturing color of BB. It would stick out like a sore thumb.
Size can be so difficult to determine because it depends all most as much on the soil and sun as it does the strain. Perhaps more so. Over time, Ive discovered that most "compact" strains grow to 5 -6 feet. Medium strains grow to about 8' and large can be LARGE. Depending upon your grow location and the size of the concealing vegetation, choosing the wrong strain can be fatal.
These are the considerations I make but Im sure others have their own criteria. Lets here some.
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