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any ideas on this ?

Brother Bear

Brother Bear

Simple kynd of man
ICMag Donor
Veteran
strain = og kush X abusive kush
grown in LC's mix #1
food recipie #1

watered with plain water from the local spring
PH = ???
RH = 45%
temps = 75 (but they did get up to low 80's fow a few days)
no air blowing right on them
about 10in under a 600w (air cooled hood)
flowered 9-15 and 9-24

bugs = fungus gnats - and i am almost sure i got the borg now as well
chems used = spinosad (SP?)
last used a few weeks ago

PIX - you can see the progression from the 9-24 to the 9-15
it happened pretty quick in like 2 weeks mebbe ?









many thanks :rasta:​
 
ItsGrowTime

ItsGrowTime

gets some
Veteran
Looks like either light/heat burn or nute burn. You say temp is 75 but is that the temp at the burnt top area?
 
MickTheBrag

MickTheBrag

Active member
if you have'nt got a fan blowing on tops of the plants then its probably heatstress.
but if the problem persists then its a bit of nute burn man.
 
Brother Bear

Brother Bear

Simple kynd of man
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i have a fan blowing just over the tops of my plants
if it were heat stress they would have gotten it at the same time right ?
the younger plant is getting worse and looking like the other now

again i have gave them ZERO nutes, could the admendments in the soil burn the plant so late in flower ?
somehow that makes no sence to me :chin:

not trying to disagree with whats already been said, just asking questions ​
 
stihgnobevoli

stihgnobevoli

Active member
Veteran
its definitely a deficiency. have you looked at the sick plants guide? i think thats phosphorous.

1134nl-Phosphorous2.jpg


phosphorous deficiency.


Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.
 
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T

tree&leaf

Member
I'd suspect Potassium myself, those lower leaves look very green. You need to start fertilising with a Bloom nutrient at 1/2 recommended dose, and up it if you need to next watering. Unless of course you know what the correct dose would be, I'm not famiar with your nutrient.

I'd also be wary of those decaying leaves and remove as many as possible before it carries the fungus/mould into the centre of the budding plant. Once it gets in there, it'll simply eat its way outwards and destroy some of your main cola. You might also want to think about lowering your RH if you can by as much as possible, as mould cannot thrive in low RH environments.

Your lights (even air cooled ones) seem too low to me. You may not be concerned about conductive heat, but the lamp will still output IR heat that close. I'd up them to 12 inches or preferably 16-18.

Other than that, your plants have certainly produced some nice fat colas!
 
MickTheBrag

MickTheBrag

Active member
Brother Bear said:
i have a fan blowing just over the tops of my plants
if it were heat stress they would have gotten it at the same time right ?
the younger plant is getting worse and looking like the other now

again i have gave them ZERO nutes, could the admendments in the soil burn the plant so late in flower ?
somehow that makes no sence to me :chin:

not trying to disagree with whats already been said, just asking questions ​
Click to expand...



its nute burn buddy. flush with clean water till harvest is the thing to do. you should still get some nice smoke. :joint: peace.
 
Anima

Anima

Active member
Looks to me like a lockout caused by pH imbalance.
local water sources (especially ones from reservoirs and such) can have varying pH at different times of the year because layers of the water can change due to thermal changes, and essentially stirs everything up
You can solve all of your problems by measureing the runoff's pH. :wink:
probably add a bit more /less dolomite lime next round depending on where you are at now...
I just use the drops...http://www.wormsway.com/detail.asp?sku=PTI500
works great..all you need is an empty eye dropper bottle, and an empty see through vial...no need to keep a probe wet or change its batteries...I guarantee your girls will love you for it... :rasta:
Peace and kindness
-Anima
 
B

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
This soil mix is a good one. It has lime and humus for ph control, it's got blood meal for N, bone meal for P, and kelp for K and micro nutes. It's been used by many to know it works well. But, it's suggested in that thread that every time you water you should use liquid karma. I jus wonder if Brother Bear has done this? BC
 
HeadyPete

HeadyPete

Take Five...
Veteran
Hey Brother Bear!

P def, for sure, bonemeal breaks down slowly and if the soil wasn't cooked long enough before use then that bonemeal wasn't available. I would adjust that mix by bringing the N down (they are too green) and the P up, using a faster acting P like guano or a liquid bloom nute. Also looks like those plants really like the P.
 
Brother Bear

Brother Bear

Simple kynd of man
ICMag Donor
Veteran
WORD UP HOLMESLICES :wave:

Anima - i have a drop test around here somewheres :chin:
i lost it when i switched to LC's mix

local water sources (especially ones from reservoirs and such) can have varying pH at different times of the year because layers of the water can change due to thermal changes, and essentially stirs everything up
Click to expand...

did not know this one bro :yes: thanks for the info, i get all my water from my moms spring fed goldfish pond in her back yard :rasta:

B.C. - no i do not have any liquid karma, should it be bought by the gallon ?
i keep 21 plants in my flowercab

HeadyPete - i let the mix sit 2 weeks exactly, then i needed to use it right away.
this next batch i have is going on 3 weeks now though
i have some FFBB i can use on these, i just thought with this mix i did not need to add nutes at all LOL
the mix is only doing this to this particular strain, the others look well :ying:

tree&leaf/stihgnobevoli - thank you gents as well for your help :respect:

I'd also be wary of those decaying leaves and remove as many as possible before it carries the fungus/mould into the centre of the budding plant. Once it gets in there, it'll simply eat its way outwards and destroy some of your main cola. You might also want to think about lowering your RH if you can by as much as possible, as mould cannot thrive in low RH environments.
Click to expand...

interesting point :chin: i just chopped some AK47 F2's the other week and those plants had badly decayed leaves at 86 and 90 days
i did develope some grey fungus/mould in the top of one of my colas
i'll remember this now though, THANKS :rasta:

AK



MickTheBrag - :muahaha: :asskick:

OGKxABK


​
 
MickTheBrag

MickTheBrag

Active member
o.k. man cut your flowering nutes in half. and for the gnats put a layer of sand on the tops of your pots. like a mulch, as gnats can zap bud power from your nutes if you get my drift man. you'l still get good colas. :joint:
 
B

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
Brother Bear said:
B.C. - no i do not have any liquid karma, should it be bought by the gallon ?
i keep 21 plants in my flowercab
Click to expand...
The reason I asked is because only the top of the plant is affected. LK has a lot of auxins and other growth hormones that -would- affect the top of the plant. Everything else would affect other parts of the plant in some way, aswell as the top. Maybe it jus couldn't handle bein so close to the light, 10" is purdy close. Sometimes infrared heat takes a while to show damage. I dunno, but I've used this mix myself on a number of different strains in the past and never had this problem. Btw, I don't use LK either lol ( by the gal ).... aah well, they look good anyway, enjoy! Take care... BC
 
stinkyattic

stinkyattic

her dankness
Veteran
Fertilizer or other chemical burns show much faster on parts of the plant that are in warmer zones (=closer to the lamp).
Watch out for spring water; highway de-icer inclusion into water sources, runoff from agricultural sites, dissolving minerals, organic acids, etc etc etc can all interfere. I used to have a grow house in a hemlock forest whose well water came in at exactly 6.9 but was loaded with tannic acid and others whose buffering range made the water look good from just a pH check, but it turned out to be uber-soft and acidic (yes, it can be acidic at 6.9!) and blasted through the lime in my promix in like 3 weeks, and I got that nasty scorch symptom on my plants as a result. Moral of the story, run your calmag, test your spring water for hardness to determine what is in it (is it organic or inoganic in nature?), and make sure you never leave a plant in the same pot without re-potting for more than a few weeks if you have even the slightest question about your water source. I gave up the lease on that place because the water was so bad (and in spring it had a tendency to squirt out of the back wall of the building and flow through the house, across the kitchen, through the living room, and make a lovely waterfall at the front door).
 
B

B.C.

Non Conformist
Veteran
A lovely waterfall at the front door, and you moved?!?! LOL! I'm jus kidding, that would have sucked.... Btw, I wish I could type half as fast as you! but then my two pointer fingers would be -really- sore then! ( wink, smile! ) Thanks for yer input. Later, BC
 
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