PLL Club. (if you don't know, now you know)

rives · Aug 2, 2012

I wouldn't run 4x55 on a Workhorse 8 simply because it isn't recommended by the manufacturer and voids the warranty. Many people do it with no problem, however. I like the Workhorse 5 - it only runs 2x55, but opens up lots of options for bank switching of the lamps.

Yes, the Workhorse 3,5,7, and 8 are all available in 230v versions. The following link will take you to the Fulham spec sheets for them (near the bottom of the page). I don't know about a supplier though - their site may list distributors.

http://horse.fulham.com/specs-literature/specification-sheets/

maree · Sep 3, 2012

Pl-l specs (for osram dulux l)

Pl-l specs (for osram dulux l)

Club members who use Dulux L's (Osram's version of the pl-l) might find this link useful, if they haven't already checked it out.

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/compact-fluorescent-lamps/osram-dulux-l/index.jsp[/URL

Thought I'd post it here for all those ruminating on which product to use. Downloadable pdf's for each product with nominal and rated wattage, lumens pre watt, luminance (luminous intensity of light over a given area and travelling in a given direction), lamp efficiency over time, CRI, etc. Allows really useful comparisons between wattages. Also, check out the new Dulux L HE range - quite interesting.

Amongst their cfl products (dulux l's are part of this family) I noticed an induction fluorescent, the endura. There's been a little chatter about this type of lighting but check out the luminance rating compared to dulux l's - really disappointing. Maybe this is why they've not taken off?

StoopheadFred · Sep 23, 2012

Sorry... really rookie question. I'm looking at a ballast that is meant to run 3x 40w 2g11 lamps. Can I run 3x 36w 2g11 lamps instead?

I know people overdrive fluoros all the time, and in my setup a 17" bulb length vs a 20" would be mighty handy.

Hydro-Soil · Sep 24, 2012

rives said:
I wouldn't run 4x55 on a Workhorse 8 simply because it isn't recommended by the manufacturer and voids the warranty.

Yes... good point.

The other thing to keep in mind is the max operating temps of the ballast as well. With the Workhorse 8... over 75F will void the warranty. I also recommend keeping the ballast(s) actively cooled to prolong life.

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:

heinrich1970 · Oct 17, 2012

High all!

I've been lurking around the forums for weeks now, planning a grow PC with PLL lights.

As my case is quite high but not very long, I plan on installing a flat carbon filter under the top. 3 24W-PLL lights directly underneath this filter would let the air through while cooling the tubes at the same time.

BUT: If I install reflectors (parabolic or zigzag) I cover up my whole area, so air cannot get from the plants to the filter.
If I spread the lamps evenly, I could leave space for the air between each lamp. But then I end up with very narrow reflectors, which let a lot of the light reflected sideways into the neighboring lamp.
If I pack the tubes close to each other, that's even worse -> There is no way light emitted upways could get down on the plants.

So it would be better to build a big reflector and gaps between the lamps. But how should the air get past this?
Any ideas how to solve this? Maybe drilling holes in the reflector?

rives · Oct 17, 2012

StoopheadFred said:
Sorry... really rookie question. I'm looking at a ballast that is meant to run 3x 40w 2g11 lamps. Can I run 3x 36w 2g11 lamps instead?

Fred, sorry I missed your question, but I would suggest that you go to the Fulham site and check out their lamp/ballast compatibility charts. I don't have any experience with your combination.

heinrich1970 said:
As my case is quite high but not very long, I plan on installing a flat carbon filter under the top. 3 24W-PLL lights directly underneath this filter would let the air through while cooling the tubes at the same time.

BUT: If I install reflectors (parabolic or zigzag) I cover up my whole area, so air cannot get from the plants to the filter.
If I spread the lamps evenly, I could leave space for the air between each lamp. But then I end up with very narrow reflectors, which let a lot of the light reflected sideways into the neighboring lamp.
If I pack the tubes close to each other, that's even worse -> There is no way light emitted upways could get down on the plants.

Have you checked out the reflectors from AHSupply.com? They fit pretty closely around the lamps (@ 4" wide at their widest point) and work very well. You can have pretty small gaps between the reflectors and still have good airflow - check the total area available. The rule of thumb is to have at least double the area for a passive inlet as your fan size, so for example if you are running a 4" fan (roughly 12" of area) and your three reflectors are 18" long, the 4 gaps adjacent to the reflectors would only need to be around 3/8" wide to give you 27" of airflow area. This would only require a total width in your case of 13.5".

heinrich1970 · Oct 18, 2012

Thanks for you reply.
Maybe you overread that I am planning a PC case, so there is 7" width (or depth, seen from the door side) for the lights. Normally not a problem, there is DIYtry's zigzag style reflector here in the forums. But that reflector is designed to use all the area there is in a PC case (7"x15")
If my filter would be placed directly above the lamps, there is no airflow upwards possible.

So my options are:
- two lamps only
- moving the lamps all the way up to the top and the filter elsewhere (quite useless for a scrog)
- use smaller reflectors (e.g. plain surface) that reflect a lot of the light back onto the bulb, but have really nice airflow

Which is better, 2 lights or 3 lights with lots of backreflection?

dudin · Oct 26, 2012

55w 7 dollars incl postage and socket. Ebay Sweet deal.

Jbonez · Oct 26, 2012

Played with PLL's, loved em! super bright, cant wait to build another reflector for veg!

Leathermonster · Oct 26, 2012

How do these types of light compare to, say, a 2 x 1000w hps setup? Strictly as far as the plants go. (height, size, quality of bud) I currently have a 150w hps in my cloning cabinet and Im thinking of switching to florescent bulbs.

fungzyme · Oct 26, 2012

Leathermonster said:
How do these types of light compare to, say, a 2 x 1000w hps setup? Strictly as far as the plants go. (height, size, quality of bud) I currently have a 150w hps in my cloning cabinet and Im thinking of switching to florescent bulbs.

No real comparison to 1000 watt bulbs! Completely different growing parameters - the 1000w bulbs have much greater intensity and penetration (and heat!). PLL's like any other fluorescent bulb need to be within inches of the plant for sufficient lumen intensity.
It's really about what is best in your specific situation, as far as growing style, growing space, and ventilation/heat removal system.

Any type of fluorescent will be okay for a cloning cabinet - these might actually be overkill unless you veg in there for a while also.

Femora · Oct 31, 2012

Hey there experts and nerds!
First off, This is just an amazing thread and really inspiring reading it through!
There are some really really nice grows linked in here!

Im not sure that im at the right part of the forum, but I figure its close enough without looking like a tard..

I got my hands on a 2x58w ballast and 2 Link CFL 55W. But I do not have any sockets.

Now to my question; Its 3 separate "arms" on the light, and the socket is a G10q-4. On top of that the light seems to be able to be inserted 2 ways into the imaginary socket (it can be turned 180 degrees before inserted in the socket)
3 startups, one zero? How could I know which one?!

How am I supposed to wire this shit? :chin:

Google can't even help me here..

Femora · Nov 12, 2012

Am I beeing ignored, or is there noone with information? :/

rives · Nov 12, 2012

Femora said:
Am I beeing ignored, or is there noone with information? :/

Femora said:
Im not sure that im at the right part of the forum, but I figure its close enough without looking like a tard..

I got my hands on a 2x58w ballast and 2 Link CFL 55W. But I do not have any sockets.

Now to my question; Its 3 separate "arms" on the light, and the socket is a G10q-4. On top of that the light seems to be able to be inserted 2 ways into the imaginary socket (it can be turned 180 degrees before inserted in the socket)
3 startups, one zero? How could I know which one?!

How am I supposed to wire this shit?

Google can't even help me here..

You probably haven't gotten any answers because you are in the PL-L thread, and the lamps you are using aren't PL-L's, don't use 2G11 sockets, don't use the ballast that you have listed, etc.

Without a link to the ballast that you are using, I can't help you. If there is no keyway or non-symmetrical orientation of the lamp pins, they are probably reversible. No idea, really, because I've never seen a lamp like that, but usually with electrical gear if orientation matters there is something present to keep you from doing it wrong. I would question whether or not the ballast that you are referring to is compatible with the lamps because of the wattage difference that you called out. Just because they are close, or even if you can get the lamp to light, doesn't mean that they are correct for that application.

Femora · Nov 14, 2012

I figure you are right. I opened my mouth in desperation when google failed me!
The ballast im speaking about is http://malmbergs.com/frmProductDisplay_new.aspx?item=4330801 and I guess its only for fluorescent...

Thanks for the answer!
I warms me to see that someone acctually care, even thou I was way out in the jungle...

ps. its not a 2g11, its a g10q-4.

rives · Nov 14, 2012

Femora said:
I figure you are right. I opened my mouth in desperation when google failed me!
The ballast im speaking about is http://malmbergs.com/frmProductDisplay_new.aspx?item=4330801 and I guess its only for fluorescent...

Thanks for the answer!
I warms me to see that someone acctually care, even thou I was way out in the jungle...

ps. its not a 2g11, its a g10q-4.

I realize that it's not a 2G11 - that is what a PL-L uses. I'm not much on German, but I still don't find a schematic in that link. Good luck.

heinrich1970 · Nov 22, 2012

Cause it's swedish, not german.

Femora, I have never seen a lamp like the one you linked.
The ballast you showed us seems to be for PLL lamps. (I'm guessing based on the wiring picture on the ballast)

You probably need another type of ballast to drive this lamp. Probably. I assume no one here has ever seen such a bulb.

Try writing to the shop, which seems to be the manufacturer aswell. They should be able to tell you which ballast to buy and how to wire that thing.

Femora · Nov 25, 2012

Aye, It seems like I finally figured it out.. I was just to fast with ordering the stuff.
I was quite naiive thinking that it would acctually fit together.

I'll give the shop a try! Ill tell you if/when I get a response.

Hydro-Soil · Nov 25, 2012

Remember to protect your eyes folks...

For those that have skipped parts of this thread... or need multiple reminders like myself... Fluoros put off a 'softer' light without as much infra-red as HID lamps... it 'feels' softer on your eyes.

The downside is that it actually does do damage if you have them 2' or less from your eyes... while you work with your plants. The other downside is that the bad damage accumulates slowly over time, and doesn't heal. So by the time you know there's a problem... it's already too late.

Please be kind to your eyes... you only get one set.

Stay Safe! :blowbubbles:

soursmoker · Jan 3, 2013

Any of you have experience with the racehorse ballasts by fulham?

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