Cure for Powdery mildew in flowering?

puff adder · Sep 14, 2013

Before discovering Eagle-20, I once got PM late in flower and won the battle with Dutchmaster Zone and Saturator mix.

Found a thread here about it, do a search.

I found that 3 or 4 sprayings a day or 2 apart was what was needed to actually kill the shit off. Single sprayings did what everything else I tried did, which was make it go away for a week and then have it come back.

talktosamson · Sep 14, 2013

Dude....greencure. it's cheap, easy and super effective!! It's the one and only thing I use for PM. And in my area all the vineyards have PM. So eventually we get it as well. Greencure once a week and you PM problems will be over.

minds_I · Sep 14, 2013

Hello all,

I also use only Greencure, I use it once a week and at half strength.

I also swish my buds with 1/2 strength Greencure and then in plain water. I change the rinse water regularly at harvest time. It leaves no taste or smell that I or anyone else that smokes my flowers have detected.

I use half strength because at full strength it turns the pistils red...which they turn anyway.

It is also OMRI listed I believe.

Good luck and get on it...PM can explode if not kept in check.

minds_I

vapedg13 · Sep 16, 2013

Spot spray daily until harvest with 3 % store bought h202.... spray during early light so the buds can dry

pseudostelariae · Mar 16, 2014

old thread bump. i just noticed a few leaves with powdery mildew and i'm into my 7th week flower on an 8-9 week strain so i really don't want to spray. would the milk solution work if i just soaked a rag and went over leaves individually? i just need to keep it from getting really bad over the next couple weeks. dilute h202 seems like a better option for flowering plants. is it any more or less effective than the milk?

sodalitas · Mar 16, 2014

JMS Stylet oil works well with minimal calyx burn.
(Oxydate)(H2O3) works the best.)

sodalitas · Mar 16, 2014

calyx.
(just wondering why it appeared italicized in the above post.)
calyx

sodalitas · Mar 16, 2014

Weird, I didn't italicize it.

idiit · Mar 16, 2014

over a 20 year period i've had pm three times indoors. i run perpetual indoors so i almost always have a few in flower. i've killed pm three times.pm is not huge issue where i'm at but it does exist.

i take my water soluable em+ microherd and add seacrop for the archaea micro organisms in seacrop. i give 'em 30 days to activate (black molasses food, no sulfur). the archaea is an ancient pre dna organism (rna).

i mix heaping tablespoon baking soda, sufficant, 1/2 cup archaea dominated water soluable em+ and activated archaea to 4 gallons water(de-chlorinated, ph ballanced).

i thoroughly spray all plants including undersides of leaves, all surfaces, everything. lights off. use fan to dry out. one application is all i've needed.

pistils are affected but clones,seedlings saved. product is safe to ingest.

the archaea are magnificent additions to your microherd imo. they are excellent at breaking down rootballs, chelating hard to chelate rock type organic supplements. they eat malevolent molds and fungus.

this spray was tested by me once on an outdoor crop in one area going "brown rot" and worked perfectly here as well.

my rols soil always smells fresh and never has mold issues. occassionally i'll get a little mold on top of some soil and after i lightly spray with the em+ and archaea solution mold/fungus gone.

archaea is a magnificent ingredient/tool in an organic farmers toolbox and is not getting any of the attention and respect it deserves imo.

if you go to my albums you can see tubs of calcium, bone meal and trace minerals soaked with archaea dom. em+. i use these supplements that are already partially archaea dom mh chelated and my plants look very healthy.

stuff works. bottom line.

RB56 · Mar 16, 2014

sodalitas said:
Weird, I didn't italicize it.

Run your mouse over the word.

captinahab · Mar 16, 2014

Run your humidity at 30% and you wont get it... ive got lack of air flow and buds laying on top of each other and i am not worried about getting it..

captinahab · Mar 16, 2014

When somethin fuck up people always focus on how to fix it..... never on why it happened to begin with.

captinahab · Mar 16, 2014

Think about it mold and mildew only grow in cool damp places.. showers... basements.. etc. Its got to be a proper living enviornment for them to show up.

Id freak out if i came in my room and it was 72 with a 50% humidity.. id be sure to get p.m. in flower

I run 20-30% humidity and temps 78-82 deg and never worry about a cure.

. You can check out my garden pics they do just fine in that range

Shoots · Mar 16, 2014

Changing your environment won't cure it if you already have infected plants IMO.

I have dealt with it many times before and tried many products.

My best success has been with the sulfur burn. When I had it bad in the beginning I nearly killed my plants with treatments. Did one long burn and shit was stopped dead in its tracks. Now to just make sure i do a burn for an hour every week or two. Just make sure you never breathe in the toxic sulfur dioxide gas.

This is used by many greenhouse growers producing edible foods as well so it seemed safe enough for me.

If you have sprayed any oils on your plants like stated before I would be hesitant to do a burn.

Before the burn I go in spray all the plants down with plain ro water until they are soaking turn off the fans and dehumidifier. You want the plants in a humid moist environment for the burn to be most effective the moisture helps the sulfur stick to the plants thus killing spores and altering ph of the leaf surface to prevent it from taking hold again.

Research more though and don't just take my word. Im sure you won't since I am a newbie here. lol.

captinahab · Mar 16, 2014

Your right its not a cure.... it a prevention thing... like condoms wont cure herpie by putting one on the day after you get it.

Getto p.m. cure: 8 boxes of matches from the dollar store and a bucket of water. Open the bottom part of your tent far enough to stick your hands in. Kill the light and vents. Light 4 matches in the tent then quickly bring them out and throw them in a bucket if water..... grab 4 more and repeat several hundred times. Total cost under ten bucks but its a pain in the ass to do.( More geared twards small rooms of course).

But p.m is 100% preventable to begin with (in an indoor inviornment at least).

pseudostelariae · Mar 16, 2014

captinahab said:
But p.m is 100% preventable to begin with (in an indoor inviornment at least).

probably correct. i turned the temperature down to slow progression of spider mites and didn't realize i was inviting powdery mildew.

gobyebye · Mar 16, 2014

Actinivate,actinivate,actinivate! The shit is awesome and you can spray it every 3-4 days up until harvest. 1 tbsp/gal and I'd get under the canopy too and soak them.you can also get a sulfer burner next crop.theyre fairly cheap

Dr. Purpur · Mar 16, 2014

Green cure : Potasium bicarbonate

Pantagruelion · Mar 17, 2014

Oil(neem), green cure, sulfur, activinate. In that order. Part of IPM system. Just like the vineyard. Consequence of massive canopy.

captinahab · Mar 17, 2014

pseudostelariae said:
probably correct. i turned the temperature down to slow progression of spider mites and didn't realize i was inviting powdery mildew.

I threw my whole crop away when i got spider mites. Then i did some research on why i got them
1) clones from friends
2) pets in house
3) not changing clothes after mowing the lawn... or being in nature
4) house plants

Which rule did you break? Probably number 1. I broke number 4. I took a plant in the house ....and they found the way to the plants several rooms away. Spider mites hate onions. Anything in the onion family and they vacate.

Cure for Powdery mildew in flowering?

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