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The best mini-split ductless heat pump/ac models list

A

acridlab

Been hearing lots of people complaining about minisplits getting dirty. And are very hard to clean the inside of mold and dust..

Any truth?
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
keep the filters on them C-L-E-A-N
it doesn't take alot of dust to impede airflow on the main tube blower and let mold get a foothold.
i posted about this last year.
 
for every 1000w of non-cooled lites you need 5000btu of AC.
this covers the equipment in the room.
so for 6000w you need 30,000btu AC.
last year i went with 6000w and a 32,500btu mr slim.
it does the job but the room is 20ft long and mini splits tube blowers don' have enuff oomph to efficiently push the cool air to the far end with all the hoods and stuff hanging from the ceiling

placing a few fans to helped get the air to the back of the room.
i wanted a back up mini split in case mine went down and to add a few more lamps so picked up a freidrich 24,000btu breeze.
the breeze is a very good buy and the quick connect self hook-up line set is... a breeze
:smoke:


knowing what i know now about mini splits blower and prob cooling a room 20ft long
i would at the very least get a dual zone mini to minimize hot spots,
OR preferably...
go with another unit and you'll have back up insurance, this was very important for me


Thanks for replying

as far the the how many btu to cool you mentioned i would need more btu to cool equiptment in the room. i dont have a burner and i think im going to duct the quest into the room.

which mitsubishi did you go with? ive seen 2.5 and 3 ton mitsubishis but no 2.75 tons. Also the mitsubishis seem to have the lowest SEER rating of all the similiarly priced units.

Ive been looking at these units. Specifically the Mitsubishi MSZ-D30NA 30,000 btu units. The nicer 36,000btu are a little outta my price range. Well not out of my price range but im converting from vented to sealed so i need a quest, co2 monitor/controller, new fans, cans, tables etc.needless to say $$$$$

I only know one person with a split and they bought a gree from home depot and they say it works great.

Do you recommend getting a model that heats and cools Or cools only? i could maybe get a nicer cooling only unit. We see all 4 seasons here. 100 summer days and snow in the winter. Maybe some type of space heater for the room instead of getting a split to do it?

According to the chart i made the LG LS307HV3 or Friedrich M30YJ is looking like what i should buy even though i want a mitsubishi simply based on recommendations. These have the highest seer and lowest operating temp (requires a wind baffle during the winter) mitsubishi doesnt seem to offer that on the D30NA model.

Then again maybe didnt get the correct info the the mitsubishi? maybe it cools at a lower temp than i think?
 

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tact1

Member
Strongly considering this for my 2k air cooled flower room.

https://www.goductless.com/Fujitsu-...091&mainCat=cat6102&subCat=&trail=24442:33.00

Wonder if i could stop aircooling it and still get by with just a 9kbtu, maybe not in the hottest part of the summer, but the start and end of it?

It is so efficient, barely pulling 500w, could throw that on my rooms existing electrical load and get by, but not the 1000w+ ones I dont think.

More quick details: Midwest, high humidity, basement corner, sunfacing but below ground level, no windows. 8x6 lxW, 7" ceiling, space.

x2 magnum xxxl 6" ducted hoods being drawn out of a 630 cfm eclipse (ish) through the lines through a can fan mounted high, and all pushed out of the room and house. Active exhaust on room, passive intake on room as well.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Thanks for replying

as far the the how many btu to cool you mentioned i would need more btu to cool equiptment in the room. i dont have a burner and i think im going to duct the quest into the room.

which mitsubishi did you go with? ive seen 2.5 and 3 ton mitsubishis but no 2.75 tons. Also the mitsubishis seem to have the lowest SEER rating of all the similiarly priced units.

my mr slim 32,500btu was phased out a year or so after i got it.



Ive been looking at these units. Specifically the Mitsubishi MSZ-D30NA 30,000 btu units. The nicer 36,000btu are a little outta my price range. Well not out of my price range but im converting from vented to sealed so i need a quest, co2 monitor/controller, new fans, cans, tables etc.needless to say $$$$$


I hear ya on that! i went sealed in my new room any it cost some $$ to get it going but the results are outstanding ime



I only know one person with a split and they bought a gree from home depot and they say it works great.

I'd venture to say nearly all mini splits work great.
it's the reliability/quality factor you should be looking
at as a grower.
I talked to lots of peeps here
and read tons of reviews before opting for a mitsu mr slim

I read where this one guy went cheap,
6wks later his AC goes down in mid summer.
even tho he's covered with warranty
the off brand parts in the cheeper mini cause a 3-4wk delay getting the chip board that fried with having the HVAC to actually order it from some place in SE Asia.
you want a mini split with a proven track record of reliability.
not something you saved $1500,
that craps out on you 4wks into bloom with 6000w worth of bud on the vine in the middle of july
with the HVAC you don't need fukkin around your gro
telling you it'll be a month to get the part in.
you can skimp on the C02 sniffer, or the lite controller
and the Co2 burner etc etc etc.
but
DON'T GO ON THE CHEEP FOR YOUR AC
:smoke:
Do you recommend getting a model that heats and cools Or cools only? i could maybe get a nicer cooling only unit. We see all 4 seasons here. 100 summer days and snow in the winter. Maybe some type of space heater for the room instead of getting a split to do it?
i don't know if you'll need the heatand cooling model or not.
depends on your temps and your room.
According to the chart i made the LG LS307HV3 or Friedrich M30YJ is looking like what i should buy even though i want a mitsubishi simply based on recommendations. These have the highest seer and lowest operating temp (requires a wind baffle during the winter) mitsubishi doesnt seem to offer that on the D30NA model.
again, quality isn't cheep. mr slims have top end seer ratings.
btw....
i believe all the mitsu's keep cooling to 4deg. F



Then again maybe didnt get the correct info the the mitsubishi? maybe it cools at a lower temp than i think?
call the supplier and find out, or call cust service @mitsu
 

whadeezlrg

Just Say Grow
Veteran
so does anyone here know anything about this situation:

i had an ac guy come over and solder lines, nitrogen, vac lines, and charge a previously installed unit. the guy topped off the charge with r410a, my system is r22...he said he only added 1/2oz of it...it's a soleus air 1 ton...

am i ok considering it was such a small amount? I've heard that I'll be ok, and that I need to clear the lines and start with a fresh charge...I've heard both...and don't know which way to lean one way or another, but I'm running perpetually so I really can't afford the ac to fail mid-run(all the time lol)

I ran it for about 15min, it was blowing ICE cold(32f out of the blower)...so it definitely cools, but will it fail?or should I just plan on it failing and upgrade to a newer/better unit hopefully before it fails...it would probably be a couple months at the soonest, so summer will already be tapering off by that point...major dilemma...

anyone?
 
I am looking at dual zone AC/heat split minis for my cabin. MY great room is 6336 CF with lots of sliding glass doors and my tiny bedroom 700 CF with only fair insulation. The dual zone units I find are are like 12000/9000 splits. I am not finding any units smaller than 9000 BTUs.
My question is having the over sized unit in the bedroom set at 72 year round waste money or will it just run less because it's servicing such a small space?

Thanks for any help.
 
Well, I am not an HVAC guy however the answer I choose to believe is that the unit for the bedroom being 9000 won't hurt because you only pay for how often it runs and how often it cycles is based on how much out put it provides. So I may over pay in the beginning but will not be continuing to overpay for the life of the system.
 
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