Hi mate, sorry to hear that you are still having these issues...
Can I ask a few q's about this as it seems to be a coco related issue a few peeps are having and I have just got some coco for my new grow.
1. Were the 2 plants healthy plants at your other grow the 2 strongest root & health wise?
2. Are you still watering with open ended hose or have you added drippers? (if so how many times per day and for how long- Have you measured the amount coming from 1 dripper per feed?)
3. Have you always gone from the cups to 10L or is it 12L pots(?) with your coco grows?
4. How compact is your coco in the pots? - (Do you pack it in densely?)
5. Do your buckets drain well?
6. What size buckets are they currently in?
U prob know coco can have smaller pots than soil and not suffer same root bound pics as soil... typically a 4L pot is used when growing sog stylee (24 plants per 600w) coco slabs have 12L of coco in them and people put 4 - 6 clones on them... point is you may not need to use the larger pots and maybe the 7L's are enough for you as the larger pot is not filling with roots.
From viewing your thrad this issue started at week 3-4 veg, how many ml's per L were you giving at this point, also what was is your watering schedule when they go from cup to pot/ bucket?
Cheers!
Still cant sleep!
Just been downloading the Coco PDF's from Canna's website, as all this has made me realize there's alot more to coco than meets the eye! So the more info the better.... anyway, I noted the following:
CANNA’s Coco is made up of thousands of capillary micro-sponges that retain almost 1000 % of their own weight in water. Therefore Coco retains an enormous buffer of water and nutrients. It is recommended that the grower keep the medium a bit dry rather than soaking wet. Wet circumstances form an ideal basis for fungal diseases like Pythium. A drier substrate
passes more air through to the roots stimulating them to absorb water and nutrients more actively. This results in a faster growth and higher yields.Another important instrument is timing. Once the Coco has become too wet, reduce or pause watering until the Coco has dried out and then start normal watering again. Check the moisture content of the Coco by hand or by determining its weight by lifting the pot or slab. A rule of thumb for watering fully-growplants is 4 to 6 litres per m2 a day. By decreasing the dripping frequency and by increasing the amount of nutrients per watering, the best use is made of
available water and nutrients. This will also improve drainage. The frequency of watering depends on the evaporation and the water supply in the Coco. A common rule is that one daily watering is sufficient during the first few weeks under normal circumstances; then increase up to 2 times a day; 2 hours after the lamps have been turned on and 2 hours before they are switched off again. Please keep in mind, smaller root volumes per plant (small pots or many plants per slab) will make Coco dry out quickly. Therefore it is critical to water these plants more often.
The last statement is why dewds that are using small (4L) pots or slabs sog stylee water between 3 - 5 times daily until run off.
With your larger pots they are suggesting a different wtaering regime (as they hold more water longer) but still advocating run off (I suppose to ensure nutes are exchanged, salt build up is to a minimal and new oxy introduced when water sucks air into coco after feeding.
Method for collecting representative sample of your coco's true EC (not run off EC)
The most reliable method for measuring the nutrient levels in Coco is using the 1: 1.5 extraction method. EC
and pH of the root environment can be determined by using this method. The pH and EC of the drain water
generally deviates from the actual root situation, as Coco is able to retain and release elements.
1) Take a sample of Coco from the slabs or pots (photo 1). This can be done with a soil core sampler or a
trowel. To get a representative sample the Coco must be collected from as many places as possible.
2) Collect the sample in a bowl and determine whether it contains the right amount of moisture. The Coco
has the right amount of moisture if moisture disappears between your fingers when you squeeze it (photo
2). Add demineralised water if necessary and mix the Coco.
3) Take a 250 ml measuring jug and fill it with 150 ml of demineralised water. Add Coco to the 250 ml mark
(photo 3). Fully mix and allow the slurry to settle for at least two hours.
4) Mix again and measure the pH
5) Filter this material and measure the EC.
A 1:1.5 analysis can preferably be done after 3 to 4 weeks. The target values for EC are between 1.1 and 1.3,
for the pH, between 5.3 and 6.2. Very high EC values increase the risk of burning symptoms. To limit the risk of
burning symptoms, the Coco can be rinsed with acidified water (pH 5.8: acidify with CANNA pH - growth).
And last but by know means least... do you use nitric acid pH down or phos...
Can I ask a few q's about this as it seems to be a coco related issue a few peeps are having and I have just got some coco for my new grow.
1. Were the 2 plants healthy plants at your other grow the 2 strongest root & health wise?
2. Are you still watering with open ended hose or have you added drippers? (if so how many times per day and for how long- Have you measured the amount coming from 1 dripper per feed?)
3. Have you always gone from the cups to 10L or is it 12L pots(?) with your coco grows?
4. How compact is your coco in the pots? - (Do you pack it in densely?)
5. Do your buckets drain well?
6. What size buckets are they currently in?
U prob know coco can have smaller pots than soil and not suffer same root bound pics as soil... typically a 4L pot is used when growing sog stylee (24 plants per 600w) coco slabs have 12L of coco in them and people put 4 - 6 clones on them... point is you may not need to use the larger pots and maybe the 7L's are enough for you as the larger pot is not filling with roots.
From viewing your thrad this issue started at week 3-4 veg, how many ml's per L were you giving at this point, also what was is your watering schedule when they go from cup to pot/ bucket?
Cheers!
Still cant sleep!
Just been downloading the Coco PDF's from Canna's website, as all this has made me realize there's alot more to coco than meets the eye! So the more info the better.... anyway, I noted the following:
CANNA’s Coco is made up of thousands of capillary micro-sponges that retain almost 1000 % of their own weight in water. Therefore Coco retains an enormous buffer of water and nutrients. It is recommended that the grower keep the medium a bit dry rather than soaking wet. Wet circumstances form an ideal basis for fungal diseases like Pythium. A drier substrate
passes more air through to the roots stimulating them to absorb water and nutrients more actively. This results in a faster growth and higher yields.Another important instrument is timing. Once the Coco has become too wet, reduce or pause watering until the Coco has dried out and then start normal watering again. Check the moisture content of the Coco by hand or by determining its weight by lifting the pot or slab. A rule of thumb for watering fully-growplants is 4 to 6 litres per m2 a day. By decreasing the dripping frequency and by increasing the amount of nutrients per watering, the best use is made of
available water and nutrients. This will also improve drainage. The frequency of watering depends on the evaporation and the water supply in the Coco. A common rule is that one daily watering is sufficient during the first few weeks under normal circumstances; then increase up to 2 times a day; 2 hours after the lamps have been turned on and 2 hours before they are switched off again. Please keep in mind, smaller root volumes per plant (small pots or many plants per slab) will make Coco dry out quickly. Therefore it is critical to water these plants more often.
The last statement is why dewds that are using small (4L) pots or slabs sog stylee water between 3 - 5 times daily until run off.
With your larger pots they are suggesting a different wtaering regime (as they hold more water longer) but still advocating run off (I suppose to ensure nutes are exchanged, salt build up is to a minimal and new oxy introduced when water sucks air into coco after feeding.
Method for collecting representative sample of your coco's true EC (not run off EC)
The most reliable method for measuring the nutrient levels in Coco is using the 1: 1.5 extraction method. EC
and pH of the root environment can be determined by using this method. The pH and EC of the drain water
generally deviates from the actual root situation, as Coco is able to retain and release elements.
1) Take a sample of Coco from the slabs or pots (photo 1). This can be done with a soil core sampler or a
trowel. To get a representative sample the Coco must be collected from as many places as possible.
2) Collect the sample in a bowl and determine whether it contains the right amount of moisture. The Coco
has the right amount of moisture if moisture disappears between your fingers when you squeeze it (photo
2). Add demineralised water if necessary and mix the Coco.
3) Take a 250 ml measuring jug and fill it with 150 ml of demineralised water. Add Coco to the 250 ml mark
(photo 3). Fully mix and allow the slurry to settle for at least two hours.
4) Mix again and measure the pH
5) Filter this material and measure the EC.
A 1:1.5 analysis can preferably be done after 3 to 4 weeks. The target values for EC are between 1.1 and 1.3,
for the pH, between 5.3 and 6.2. Very high EC values increase the risk of burning symptoms. To limit the risk of
burning symptoms, the Coco can be rinsed with acidified water (pH 5.8: acidify with CANNA pH - growth).
And last but by know means least... do you use nitric acid pH down or phos...
jk
