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Notes on some commonly used organic fertilizers:

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Blood Meal : 13 - 0 - 0
Blood meal has one of the highest concentrations of Nitrogen of any organic fertilizer, and is consequently a popular choice for the vegetative growth period. In its dry and slow-acting form, it can be mixed in with the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon of soil mix. However, many growers prefer to use it as a soluble fertilizer as it acts very quickly without as much danger of burning - much like the action of a chemical fertilizer, but without as many risks.
To make blood meal tea, soak 1 tablespoon of blood meal in a gallon of water for 3 to 7 days, shaking up the mixture daily. An empty gallon milk jug (with lid!) works well for most people. Up to a point, the longer you wait, the higher concentration of N the tea will have. Shake well, then strain out the solids and water your plants with the tea.

The same method and rate of usage can be used to make Kelp or Guano tea, however it is not possible to make tea out of Bone Meal, as the P in bone meal is not water soluble.

Bone Meal : 1 - 11 - 0
Bone meal is high in Phosphorus, and is most suitable for the flowering period. However, as it is a slow-release fertilizer, it is best to add to the soil earlier in the grow period. (Perhaps the best course of action is to add it to the mix you perform your final transplant into.) One caution about bone meal, especially in Europe, is that many growers will not use it for fear of spreading Mad Cow Disease. Although this has not been proven, it is wise to bear this in mind.

Fish Emulsion : 5 - 1 - 1
Fish emulsion is a liquid solution made from decomposed fish and sometimes other ingredients. It is an exceedingly gentle fertilizer and is thought by many growers to be the best "first fert" to use on young plants. Its NPK ratio is also ideal for vegetative growth. It is usually mixed with water at a rate of 1 to 3 tablespoons per gallon.

Worm castings : 0.5 - 0.5- 0.3
Also known as worm compost or good ol' worm sh*t, this may be the single best all-purpose fertilizer. Although the nutrient levels are relatively low, worm castings somehow have amazing effects on plant vigor, and anyone who has used them can testify to their effectiveness.

They are very gentle on plants, making them ideal for seedlings, and also contain micronutrients.

Worm castings can be used as part of the soil mix (no more than 20% total volume is suggested) or can be made into tea (1 part WC to 5 parts water) and applied as watering solution or as a foliar fertilizer.

Kelp meal: 1 - 0.5 - 2.5
Kelp meal provides over 60 trace elements, plus growth promoting hormones and enzymes. As such, it is often used to ensure the plant is properly supplied with micronutrients.
It can be used as part of the soil mix (1-2 tablespoons/ to
1 gallon/4 liters) or brewed into tea at the same rate.
The above information is by "organic".

"Organic soil composition involves creating a soil medium that has a balanced amount of nutrients - NPK as well as trace elements and minerals - plus organic material that provides food for not only the plant, but also the countless soil microorganisms, fungi,... bacteria that comprise a healthy soil.
This soil life breaks down the raw materials of the fertilizers you add so the plants can absorb them, and also plays a part in as-yet undefined processes that aid plant growth and improve soil health."

:)
 
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I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Organic (natural) vs Chemically sourced nutrients...

Organic (natural) vs Chemically sourced nutrients...

One of the more popular reasons to consider using organic fertilizers instead of chemicals is that - given a properly composed organic soil - there is a greatly reduced chance that you will burn (overfertilization causing injury or death) the plants with them. When fed organic substances in a soil medium that also contains adequate soil life, plants will, in general, take in the nutrients they need, leaving the rest in the soil. However, this doesn't mean you can't burn with organics - if you use too much, especially high N sources like blood meal, you can burn your plants just as badly as with chems, and organic fertilizers are much harder to flush.

Additionally, organic fertilizers are broken down slowly in the soil by microorganisms, which ensures a steady supply of nutrients to your plants; also, lots of soil microorganisms are good for the soil and consequently, your plants as well.

Chemical fertilizers, on the other hand, are in a highly soluble form and are generally of a much higher concentration than organic fertilizers. Upon applying them to the soil, they are quickly taken up by the roots. Because they are so concentrated, this rapid action will cause the plant to take in toxic levels of nutrients if the fertilizer is overapplied, leading to injury and even death if the levels are high enough. Additionally, chemical fertilizers leave salts behind in the soil. If the plant is not flushed periodically (every 1-2 months), these salts will build up to levels that are dangerous to the plants. (As a related note, if the soil is not flushed just prior to harvest, the taste of the smoke will be adversely affected.) Finally, chemical fertilizers tend have an adverse effect on soil microorganisms, including earthworms.

Beyond the issues of soil chemistry and nutrient uptake, there is little question that using organic substances are better for the environment, even when growing indoors. Organic fertilizers - blood and bone meal, fish emulsion, manure, worm castings - are renewable. Petroleum, which the vast majority of chemical fertilizers are synthesized from, is not.
For the outdoor grower, choice of fertilizer has an even more profound effect. Successful outdoor growing is closely linked with the health of the soil. Chemical fertilizers, as mentioned, have an adverse effect on soil life, which decreases the biodiversity and overall health of the soil. Chemicals are also far more soluble than organics, and are often washed away with rain or a too-heavy watering. Not only does this not help your plant, it also causes a potential pollution problem - for instance, toxic algae blooms in lakes and ponds are often linked with fertilizer run-off from lawns.

Organics are not without their drawbacks, however, especially to the indoor grower. Some organic fertilizers, fish emulsion in particular, have an odor that may offend delicate noses. (However, any security measures involving air filtering or ionization should keep the smell to a minimum.) Also, because organics encourage soil life, there are sometimes more problems with insects, particularly fungus gnats. Finally, organics require a greater investment of time and effort: chemical fertilizers' main advantage is their ease of use.

Written by "organic"
 

I.M. Boggled

Certified Bloomin' Idiot
Veteran
Here's what to look for when you buy organic fertilizer.

* First, check the N-P-K number listings on the bag.
These numbers refer to N (nitrogen), P (phosphorus), and K (potassium) in that order: the NPK ratio.

A rule of thumb for determining if fertilizer is organic or chemical, is that if an NPK ratio adds up to more than 15, or if one of the numbers is more than 8, it is probably chemical, not organic.

These lower numbers don't mean that there is a failing in organic fertilizers; remember, that is the advantage of organic materials: their nutrients are not immediately available, but rather are released slowly, over time, at a rate the plants can use without waste.

* Second, scan the list of ingredients for words like ammonium, muriate, urea, nitrate, phosphoric, or superphosphate; if these words or their variants are part of the ingredients, don't buy.
The words phosphate and sulfate themselves are not necessarily indicators of processed or synthesized materials, but if combined with any of the key words above, they are.

* Other ingredients to watch out for are cottonseed meal and leather tankage, not because they aren't natural (non-synthetic) products, but because they are frequently contaminated with harmful residues, thus making them suspect to use in an organic vegetable garden.
The same points apply to liquid fertilizers.

* when using commercial organic fertilizers, it usually is safe to follow the instructions and the recommended application rates listed on the package.

* Don't double up because the listed N-P-K is lower than what you might be used to using.


With the growing interest in organic gardening, many companies have brought what they call "organic" or "natural" fertilizers to market...

...Just be sure to read the label of what you buy, since the dream of profits has led more than one businessperson down the road to subtle deception.

A few products are little more than standard synthetic fertilizers with a bit of some organic material such as fish meal added (and then emblazoned in large type on the bag aka "natural product advertising hype").

:)
 

mtnjohn

Active member
Veteran
now thats a nice chunk of great info, thanks I.M. i'm currently growing hydro with chem ferts as i didnt have as much luck with soil in the past. when i grow outdoors i use organics and this post is great info . i'm planning on doing a soil grow in the near future because the idea of growing organic has a large appeal to me.........rock on
 
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