Composting

Hello all

I am after some advice on basic composting...


I have a large black bin type thing which i have filled up over a week or two with just random stuff(trying to keep a even amount of brown/green going in)
I allso put some soil from my garden in(at diff levels)to help intruduce the worms/bugs so on.

Now i aint expecting anything for at least 6 months(so not in a hurry)
But what sort of compost can i expect to get?Lol i know it is one of them "How long is a peice of string"Question,but i am just trying to work out if i have a basic compost set up(i like basic/simple)will i get at least some sort of good compost coming out?

Like are the creatures who live in there(Bugs/worms/ants so on)Are they going to be more important to my compost than what i myself put in(Meaning browns/greens)

So from that then,SHould i be adding as many Worms to my Bin as i can?
Also i read that ants are pretty ok if there in your bin(But it does mean the bin mix is probs to dry)


Anyway thanks in advance

Compost is like a soil version of fertilizer. As long as you know your NPK ratios putting your soil together you should be OK. Here are some nots on household things that can go into your compost. As long as you got a base that is relatively neutral you should be OK. I made this list about two years ago and added here and there since then. Its just stuff from internet but a good go to for certain things.

organic soil notes

remove any chlorine and increase the level of oxygen
availability in water, use 3% food grade hydrogen
peroxide one ounce per quart of water, also improves
nutrient intake.

help revive sick plants, soak empty eggshells in
water, let stand for 24 hours. Water the plants with
this mixture.

1 tablespoon apple vinegar to 1 gallon of water will
help plants green up, especially if the tap water is
alkaline. Vinegar does more than lower the pH; it's
also loaded with as many as 50 trace minerals.

organic ferts should be at least 5-5-5 in the
vegetative stage, while a value of 15-15-15 or above
could lead to some lock-out deficiencies. organic
fertilizer and soil conditioning materials are slow
working in general, they should be mixed into the soil
at least three weeks ahead of planting.

compost the following completely...

alfalfa: Nitrogen 2., Phosphorus .5, Potassium 2
*banana skin ash: Nitrogen 0, Phosphorus 3, Potassium
41
*bat guano: Nitrogen 1, Phosphorus 9, Potassium 1
*blood: Nitrogen 10, Phosphorus 1, Potassium 0.6
*bone meal: Nitrogen 3, Phosphorus 15, Potassium 0.5
*burrned bone: Nitrogen 0, Phosphorus 35, Potassium 0

*cantaloupe ashes: Nitrogen 0, Phosphorus 9,
Potassium 11
cattail reeds: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 1, Potassium 3
*chicken stuff: Nitrogen 5, Phosphorus 2, Potassium
1.5
*clover: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 0, Potassium 0
*coffee grounds: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 0, Potassium

*corncob ashes: Nitrogen 0, Phosphorus 0, Potassium
50
corn Stalks & leaves: Nitrogen .30, Phosphorus.13,
Potassium .33
*cottonseed meal: Nitrogen 7, Phosphorus 2.7,
Potassium 1.5
*cowpea: Nitrogen 3, Phosphorus 1, Potassium 1.4
*cow stuff: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 1, Potassium 2
*crab: Nitrogen 10, Phosphorus 0, Potassium 0
crabgrass, green: Nitrogen .66, Phosphorus .19,
Potassium .71
*cucumber ash: Nitrogen 0, Phosphorus 12, Potassium
30
dog stuff: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 10, Potassium 0.5
eggs (whole): Nitrogen 2.5, Phosphorus 0.5, Potassium

feathers: Nitrogen 14, Phosphorus 0, Potassium 0
*fish (dried): Nitrogen 8, Phosphorus 2.5, Potassium
1.5
*fish (liquid): Nitrogen 5, Phosphorus 1, Potassium 1
*fish (meal): Nitrogen 8, Phosphorus 7 Potassium 2
fish (scraps): Nitrogen 7, Phosphorus 4, Potassium 0
grapefruit skins (ash): Nitrogen 0, Phosphorus 3.5,
Potassium 30
*hair: Nitrogen 13, Phosphorus 0, pPorus 0, Potassium
5
*hoof & horm meal: Nitrogen 10, Phosphorus 2,
Potassium 0
lobster shells: Nitrogen 5, Phosphorus 4, Potassium 0

oak Leaves: Nitrogen .80, Phosphorus .35, Potassium
.15
*oats: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 1, Potassium 1
peanut shells: Nitrogen 3.5, Phosphorus 0, Potassium

*pigeon stuff: Nitrogen 4.5, Phosphorus 2.5,
Potassium 1.5
pine needles: Nitrogen .46, Phosphorus .12, Potassium
.03
*potato skin ashes: Nitrogen 0,Phosphorus 6,
Potassium 30
*rabbit stuff: Nitrogen 2.2, Phosphorus 1.6,
Potassium 1
raspberry leaves: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 0, Potassium

*seabird guano: Nitrogen 9, Phosphorus 9, Potassium 2

*seaweed (meal): Nitrogen 1, Phosphorus 1, Potassium
1
*tea grounds: Nitrogen 4.5, Phosphorus .5, Potassium
0.5
wheat: Nitrogen 2, Phosphorus 1, Potassium 1
wood ashes: Nitrogen 1,Phosphorus 4, Potassium 10
*wool: Nitrogen 5.4, Phosphorus 0, Potassium

rapid bio-availability *

bad compost pile stuff: invasive weeds, seeds, whole
corncobs, grill charcoal, anything cooked, grease.


good compost pile stuff: leaves, plant stalks, weeds
without seeds, fresh manure, urine, old potting soil,
grass clippings, twigs, coffee filters, raw vegetable
scraps, tea bags, horn meal, compost tea, alfalfa
meal, cottonseed meal.

comfrey leaves will break down in the compost heap in
half the usual time (in two to three months). Comfrey
has nitrogen, calcium, potash and phosphorus, more
than any animal manures, and it can be made into a
tea, diluted and used as a foliage spray. fill a drum
half full of comfrey leaves, fill with rain water and
put on a lid. It will be ready within two weeks. Stir
well every couple of days.


Nitrogen, N, stimulates leaf and stem growth. Nitrogen
deficiency causes reduced growth and pale yellowish
green leaves. The older leaves turn yellowish first
since the nitrogen is readily moved from the old
leaves to the new growth. Excess nitrogen may cause
potassium deficiency. nitrogen is the single-most
important element in the vegetative stage. A
university study has shown that marijuana grown with
an excess of nitrogen in the soil consistently gave
rise to larger numbers of all species of aphids.
Sources of Nitrogen are: Bloodmeal, Bone Meal,
Cottonseed Meal, Manure, and Activated Sludge, GRASS
CLIPPINGS

Phosphorus, P, is important in the germination and
growth of seeds, the production of flowers and fruit,
and the growth of roots. Phosphorus deficiency causes
reduced growth and small leaves that drop early,
starting with the oldest leaves. Leaf color is a dull,
bluish green that becomes purplish or bronzy. Leaf
edges often turn scorched brown. Excess phosphorus may
cause potassium deficiency. A phosphorus deficiency or
overdose gives rise to increased numbers of spider
mites. A marked deficiency of this macronutrient will
also draw white flies. Most of the phosphorus that is
lost from soils is lost through either erosion or
runoff. Sources of Phosphorous are: Bloodmeal, Bone
Meal, Cottonseed Meal, COMFREY, SEAGRASS, HORSE MANURE

Potassium, K, promotes general vigor, disease
resistance, sturdy growth, decreases water requirement
of plants. Potassium deficiency causes stunted growth
with leaves close together. Starting with the older
leaves, the leaf tips and edges turn scorched brown
and leaf edges roll. Excess potassium may cause
calcium and magnesium deficiencies. Sources of
Potassium are: Greensand, Manure, Compost, Wood Ashes,
COMFREY, SEAGRASS

Calcium, Ca, is a major ingredient in cell walls and
is important for root growth, especially root tips.
Calcium deficiency causes poorly developed roots with
weak tips. Leaves are distorted with hooked tips and
curled margins. Plants cannot reproduce cells without
Calcium because its importance in meiosis and mitosis
(cellular reproduction). Sources areANDELION,
LUCERNE HAY, COMFREY, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, SEAGRASS,
BLOOD & BONE

Magnesium, Mg, deficiency causes different symptoms in
different plants, but commonly includes leaf yellowing
with brilliant tints. Leaves may suddenly drop off
without withering. Symptoms show first on older
leaves. A deficiency of magnesium presents a formal
invitation for spider mite infestation. Excess
magnesium may cause calcium deficiency. Sources
are:GRASS CLIPPINGS, SEAGRASS

Sulfur, S, is an ingredient in proteins and is
necessary for chlorophyll formation. Sulfur deficiency
causes slow growth with small round leaves that roll
upward and are stiff and brittle. Leaves drop off and
tip buds die. Sulfur also acts as a natural fungicide
and pesticide.

MICRONUTRIENTS
Iron, Fe, is necessary for chlorophyll formation and
for oxygen transfer. Iron deficiency causes leaf
yellowing while leaf veins stay green. Younger leaves
are affected first. Excess lime may cause iron
deficiency. sources are STINGING NETTLE, COMPOST,
DANDELION, HORSE MANURE, SPINACH

Manganese, Mn, deficiency causes different symptoms in
different plants, but commonly causes leaves to turn
yellow while veins stay green. White or gray specks
may appear on leaves. Older leaves are affected first.
Excess manganese may cause iron deficiency and may
cause symptoms similar to manganese deficiency.
sources are:CHICK WEED, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST

Boron, B, is necessary for the movement of sugars, for
reproduction, and for water intake by cells. It also
tends to keep calcium in a soluble form. Boron
deficiency causes distorted and dead growing tips,
hollow stems and deformed fruit. Leaves are often
scorched and curled and sometimes mottled and
discolored. Young leaves are affected first. Excess
boron may cause scorched leaf edges similar to
potassium or magnesium deficiencies. sources
are:BEETROOT LEAVES, HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, SEAGRASS,
UNTREATED SAWDUST

Zinc, Zn, is necessary for the production of proteins
and affects plant size and maturity. Zinc deficiency
causes leaf yellowing between the veins, usually with
purple or dead spots starting with the older leaves.
Leaves are close together, small and deformed.
Fruiting is reduced. Excess zinc may cause iron
deficiency. Zinc can be immobilized by an excess of
phosphorous in the soil. Sources are:HORSE MANURE,
CORN STALKS, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST

Copper, Cu, is necessary for the production of
proteins and is important for reproduction. Copper
deficiencies causes bluish green leaves which may
wither or fail to unfold. Younger leaf tips may be
yellow at the edge. Growing tips may form rosettes.
Excess copper may cause iron deficiency. sources
are:STINGING NETTLE, YARROW, DANDELION, CHICK WEED,
HORSE MANURE, COMPOST, UNTREATED SAWDUST

Molybdenum, Mo, deficiencies cause yellow mottling
and dead spots on the leaves. In some plants, the
growing tips are distorted or killed. Plants need it
for nitrate reduction reactions. It also plays a role
in nitrogen fixation.

Chlorine, Cl, deficiencies may cause stubby roots and
wilting. Excess chlorine may cause leaf edges to
scorch similar to potassium deficiency. Chlorine also
factors in the oxygen-producing portion of
photosynthesis


Clay soil: Add organic material such as compost or
peat moss. Till or spade to help loosen the soil.
Since clay soil absorbs water very slowly, water only
as fast as the soil absorbs the water.

Sandy soil: Add organic material to supplement sandy
soil. Otherwise, the water can run through it so
quickly that plants won't be able to absorb it.

Loam soil: It's a combination of sand, silt, and clay.
Loam absorbs water readily and stores it for plants to
use.

PH INFO
NEVER adjust pH more than a full point while plants
are in place. The severe hydrogen swing will shock the
roots and imbalance the medium's microflora and
microfauna.

make sure it falls in the 6.2-6.8 range.

Organic pH Adjusters

Raise pH
any ash (except coal)
powdered limestone
pulverized eggshells

Lower pH

aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid)
lemon juice (strained)
orange juice (strained)
grapefruit juice (strained)

Organic Pest Control

Baking soda
Beneficial insects
Beneficial nematodes
Cinnamon products
Citrus products
Clove oil
Glue traps
Horticultural oil
Hydrogen peroxide
Pepper products

Treat ants in the house by cleaning all problem
surfaces with vinegar and water, and dust the worst
areas with baking soda.

To control aphids, Avoid heavy amounts of fertilizers.
try garlic-pepper tea, and citrus oil based sprays.

Symptoms of nematode infestation include a slow
decline in vigor, dieback of the growing shoots,
yellowing, and no response to water or fertilizer.
Often this decline in health leads to a secondary
infection such as blight, rot, or wilt.

two nematode-toxic plants are asparagus and marigolds

Black mold can be controled with baking soda,
cornmeal, and hydrogen peroxide

Baking Soda Fungicide
Mix 4 teaspoons (about 1 rounded tablespoon) of baking
soda and 1 tablespoon of horticultural oil into one
gallon of water. Spray lightly on foliage of plants
afflicted with black spot, powdery mildew, brown patch
and other fungal diseases. Avoid over-using or pouring
on the soil. Citrus oil and molasses can be used
instead of horticultural oil.

Fertilizer - Chemical fertilizers add salt to the
soil, kill soil- building microorganisms, promote soil
compaction, shallow roots, thatch and fungus growth.

Russian study showed that seedlings with at least 4"
of soil to grow the tap root were more likely to be
female.

Marijuana buds are sweeter if you harvest them after a
period of low barometric pressure.

*A less complicated version what I normally use now is Subcool's standard recipe which is as follows:

Perlite
2 Bails of Sunshine Mix
100 # organic potting soil
50-100# worm casting
2.5-5# steamed bone meal
2# seabird guano
1/2 cup trace elements ( Azorite )
1/2 cup sweet dolomite ( Lime )
1/3 cup Epsom Salts
Innoculate with microfungus ( which means sit for 60 days)
stir after 60 days

Then Use.

Do not use directly with seedlings or clones. Mix with top soil for proper feeding of smaller plants.

Full plants must be padded w pure tope soil then into soil mix.

This is what Subcool uses and what I like as well.

I also add General Hydros Diamond nectar and hit with two watering of Flourolicious in flowering.

I use this method now along with a few of the above posts mentioned items just to mix things up a bit

I already posted this another place but you might want to read it as well.

Get a couple things of nightcrawlers.

Just get a balanced/complete organic fertilizer and use that as an activator...A vegg fert would do the trick....LC

Incredible list Diego. K+.

Some added info.
If you find yourself running low on browns, feed the greens with a mollasses emulsion.
Mix 1 cup of feed grade black-strap mollassess to a 5 gal. bucket of water. dump this on your compost pile bi-weekly. Throw a cup or 2 of kelp meal in the mix as they provide oodles of benificial microbes. The microbe count will go thru the roof. Microbes and worms are symbiotic, they need each other. If you have 1 the other will come.

Hope this helps,
Seed

make sure your bin has aeration, drill 1000 holes in it! keep it relatively dry, not sopping wet. it may help to add all those great things, but:
compost happenes! just keep it aerated and turn it once in awhile

Ahh cheers guys
Sorry so long for me to reply....

Thats a lot of good info Diego
And it will come in very handy i am sure(going to book mark it for the info)



Mmm Irie-i
At mo i have no holes at all in my bin...Only a lid and a slide tray at bottom to get to the good stuff....Do u really think i need to add the holes?
It sounds obvious that i would need the holes for maybe ventalation reasons,But i think if it was meant to have holes they would come with holes(it was a store bought bin)
Oh it does have a completly open base(as in there is no bottom to it)



I am a bit worried about what i am putting in
Like my brown is mainly earth/paper/card/tea bags
And my green was grass cutings/and a small amount of veg/fruit peels



I tried to keep a even mix
but think i am somit like 35%green 65% brown(this ok?)


Also at mo i buy my bags of compost from a shop(cheapo shops)
I would still need to buy some of this tho to dilute down my compost a bit before i plant in it?

Spreading Seed
I will need to look in my local garden store(ater i read up a bit more)For some agent to add to the compost pile to speed things up...


Lol on a side note
I have found myself curses the early morning birds since useing my bin,Everytime i see a bird in my garden now he has the fattest worms u can imagine(Not from my compost heap but from other areas of my garden)
I cant help but think
"I could of found that worm and put it in my pile,Now that damn bird has it!!!"

*Grins*
Again cheers for the input guys

A good compost pile is suppost to get quite hot inside which is great as it will kill a lot of pathogens. Worms won't survive this and will either be killed or scamper off across the yard.

A worm bin, on the other hand, is cooler, odourless if done right, and can sit in your basement all year round.

Protostele