Aquaman2112
Active member
This is a work of progress, to Give to newbies! it is not all in my own words! information was obtained through grow guides and websites, I do not charge and this is not a finished product!
So keep the Plagerism crap to yourself The whole purpose of this Guide is To help the New People!! With that in mind I will start
for the LAW in your State Click on this LINK:
http://norml.org/
It All Starts with a seed!
We want our plants to be the best Right?
Darn right we do, now understand that this is one of the major decisions in the process of growing your own quality marijuana. Plants are like peopwebsites
le their genetic structure they receive from their parents. Marijuana is almost found globally so if you are going to be growing outside be sure to pick a strain that will finish in enough time. Most natural grown strains adapt to the weather of their region. Sativa are found normally closer to the equator where the temperatures and humidity are higher winters are milder. They also tend to take longer in the flowering process.
Indica’s are normally found further from the equator where the climates are cooler and winters are harsher. These tend to flower faster for obvious reasons.
To make sure you get the type high and potency level you desire this can take some research. There are a lot of companies online selling quality marijuana seeds online with very stealth packaging that deliver world wide. Just look on here for your seed companies
marijuana flowering phase is brought on by the light cycle turning closer to 12 hours on 12 hours off these flower are one of three sexes male, female, and hermaphrodite being a cross between the two female flowers with male pollen glands.
The female is all that is desired unless you are trying to make more seeds.
Germinating
Place 3 layers paper towels in a saucer.
Luke warm water tap is ok in most areas or use bottled to be safe,
Drain excess water but leave paper sopping wet.
Place seeds on paper in between the pieces of paper towel
place saucer in a zip lock bag place in a dark place, warm but not to hot 70-80 degrees. In between 18 – 72 hours later the seeds should crack open and a sprout will emerge from within.
Then place the sprout in the medium you have chosen be that soil or other wise.
Pots &Transplanting
Pot size is important because healthy roots mean healthy Bud sites in the research I have conducted I find that starting your seed in a 16 oz plastic cups works real well. Then when the plants reach about 8 – 10 inches high I transplant them into 1 to one & half gallon size pots till the plants reach 24-36 inches high then 3 gallon pots then 5 gallon pots so on and so forth. All of this is according to the size desired for the end product.
Roots grow outward for stability, so they collect at the sides of the container leaving most of the soil in the middle unused. This causes growth to decrease because the roots layer one upon the other slowly smothering the plant. Let the roots to collect at the edges of your pots, will ensure a more efficient root mass when transplant to a bigger pot water plants a day before transplanting so at transplanting the soil will not crumble/ break up “that can hurt your growth later”
water new pots a couple hours before transplanting so the soil will take the transplanted plants roots starting into the new moist soil.
Start transplant by placing soil in new pot then place old pot inside and finish fill the pot around the other pot, when filled all the way water outside soil then slowly bring out the transplanting pot remove plant from pot and place in the indenture left
For outside Growers I transplant from one gallon pots to 5 gal buckets fix the soil now and plant the buckets and place them in the ground for several reasons 1 Hide them from would be Thieves 2nd the soil will keep the roots cool which the plants love.
3rd I use blood & bone meal in my soil mixes which draws predators to the buckets by placing them out now they find out its nothing and move on by the time my plants get in the buckets they are safe from bigger predators that dig in the ground anyway
4th If you need to move your plants for any reason you can easier and less stressful on the plant.
There are a few tips
Sexing your plants
Flowers have what is called pistils these are hairs coming out of it are called stigmas. These get denser as the flowering process continues,
Male plants have groups of banana shaped pods that will open up to drop pollen
Most of the time males are deleted from the garden unless the person desires to make more seeds. The potency is better if the plant not pollinated.
Soil preparation
First off all let you know that any soil mixes maybe to strong for seedlings, just use potting soil without any additives.
Here is a good soil mix, though you can make you own.
Take five gallons of any choice potting soil most add time release fertilizers. like expert soil mix or junglegrowth, Shultz ect ect
Add 10% perlite
2/3 cup bone meal
2/3 cup blood meal
2 tablespoons of lime
Take and mix the ingredients really well
I personally would not fertilize at the time of transplant because some plants are more sensitive than others.
Marijuana loves good drainage and the roots love airy soils. Big healthy roots equal big healthy buds!
Light Cycles
The amount of light and darkness the plant receives per 24 hour period. The cycle is often 12/12 or 18/6 where the first number is hours of light is on and second is hours of the light being off.
Depending on the type of plant Indica or Sativa, Indica plants start to flower earlier than Sativas because of their origins. 15 hours of light will keep the plant in a vegetative cycle I prefer 18 hours of light on 6 with the light off this is like a summertime cycle for the plant in nature. Your grow room must be sealed from light leaks extra light during the flowering cycle could stress the plant and turn it in a bisexual plant not a desired trait! Plants are one of three sexes: male, female, and hermaphrodite being a cross between the two female flowers with male pollen glands.
The female is all that is desired unless you are trying to make more seeds
For the vegetative cycle, 18/6 or 24/0 both work well.
When you want to initiate flowering put light cycle to 12/12-- equal amounts of light and dark hours.
Cloning
mix a 50 perilite 50 vermiculite then mix a ¼ strength bloom fert water my pots filled with the mix and set that under my fluorescent lights .One of the most important things is to have a humidity dome. I use a 10" high Plastic tray from any garden dept. or local nursery or hydroponics store turn it upside down put holes in top ,with the humidity dome in place you do not have to water the clones as often. Cut at a 45 degree angle under a calyxes then dip that into the rooting gel or powder place the cutting into your pots now all you have too do is put your cuttings in your dome and keep it humid. Different strain take longer than others to root some will in 3 or 4 days where other may take 3 weeks or so. There are many other ways to clone this is a simple one Just cut the plant at a 45% angle and place the cutting into a glass of water leave on a window sill and root should appear.
Organic pesticides
Organic pesticides like neem-oil and pyrethrum are very effective and can be found at most nurseries and hydroponics stores
Something that works for a lot of pest is mixing
water, dish soap, lemon ammonia, hot sauce & Tobacco juice simply add some tobacco to some hot water let soak for half hour or more then add some dish soap hot sauce ammonia strain all the tobacco out place in spray bottle and apply to plants I do not advise spraying your plants with anything once you are in the flowering cycle but I do always spray them down right before I place them into flowering cycle to make sure I cut down on all that may be thinking of eating my babies. I also place no fly strips into my flowering room if you have problems with slugs then simply get them drunk and kill them, yes I am serious just bury a half a beer in your garden the snails go into the can get drunk and die in the can easy if you don’t mind sharing a beer with your grow
Harvest & Curing
all you have to do is cut the plant at the base and hang it upside down to dry. When the stems snap when you bend them and the bud should be dry. This is normally between 3 -10 days, At this point placing them in Mason jars or any airtight container glass is preferred. Keep the Temperatures between 60-72 degrees and in the dark opening the jars for 5 to 10 minutes to let out any excess moisture. As a side note light will breakdown the THC some people even harvest in the morning or if growing indoors leave the plant up to a week in the dark because THC is produced without degrading in the dark period. You want your plants to dry at an even rate. Hang the plants so that they will not touch each other because mould could appear and ruin the taste and even so potency to a degree. Keeping a constant temp and humidity will ensure a better taste and even burning.
Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows:
seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
Version 1.1 - Feb. 1998 - distribution okay
Nutrient deficiencies
Nitrogen (N) deficiency the growth is slow leaves are light green or yellow this mainly starts at the bottom of the plant and works its way up the plant.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency the tips sometimes get a twisted look turn yellow or brown with the veins still some green. This is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts or foliar feeding mix ½ teaspoon/quart. Like any nutrients less is better than to much, always be sure to not over do it.
Potassium (K) deficiency) leaves brown or yellow may have dead patches, especially around the edges of the leaves they may also be curled up.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency growth may be slow and leaves can turn yellow and drop off the plant. The leaf tips can be dieing or just yellow and/or brown the leaves are deep green and the stems and petioles may have purple and/or red in them. This is a trait of some strains as well.
Iron (Fe) deficiency leaves turn pale yellow or white but veins are still fairly green
Manganese (Mn) deficiency Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Dead spots may be between veins. Leaves are straight not curled
Zinc (Zn) deficiency Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Dead spots may be between veins. Leaves are curled
Calcium (Ca) deficiency Leaves twist, then turn brown or die if indoors lights too close to plants will do this as well
Boron (B) deficiency Leaves twist, then turn brown or die if indoors lights too close to plants will do this as well
Organic fertilizers verses chemical fertilizers
There is a lot of discussion these days about the merits of organic fertilizers. The benefits of natural fertilizers such as manures and compost have been known for years. However, it's been a costly proposition to produce and distribute organic fertilizers. Chemical based fertilizers are known to be cost-effective and can accurately supply plants with the proper balance of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potash (NPK). With much attention to application methods and proper crop rotation, they can be very effective. Organic growing is based on the theory that plants should grow in a chemical free environment, just as they do in nature. A study of some of the richest soils in the world finds that they are teeming with microscopic life. Humus or living soil is the perfect growing environment for plants. Not only do plants thrive in this environment, they are also healthier and less stressed. Less stress means that they are better able to fight diseases and pests. Organic soils are naturally aerated by the microbes living within, and therefore hold more water. These organisms create what has been tagged the "Soil Food Web". The Soil Food Web is a microscopic ecosystem that breaks down nutrients and minerals so they can be made available to your plants naturally. Unlike chemical fertilizers, that tend to evaporate and leach into the ground water, these micro-organism's literally retain the nutrients in their own "Food Bank" and allow the plants to use what is needed now, while storing the rest for future seasons. Your plants are not only able to access the NPK they need but also the wide range of trace minerals that are so important to healthy plants.
Now let's take a second look at chemical fertilizers. With the NPK in chemical fertilizers we also get salt. Salt can be a big problem to your soil. Salt will actually kill the living organisms in your soil. With repeated applications, your soil is unable to supply the plants with their basic needs. Soon you have plants that are solely dependant on the fertilizers, not the soil! As your plants become stressed, disease and pests become a problem. We now need more chemicals like pesticides to battle the problems we created in the first place. As you can see, this is like a dog chasing his tail. Where does it all stop? Fertilizers, pesticides, fertilizers, pesticides, so on and so forth. That doesn't sound cost-effective to me.
So what is the answer? First, let's agree that organic growing makes the most sense. Regardless of how careful and conscientious we are we can never be assured that chemicals won't find their way into places they were not intended to go. Being a good steward of our environment is just plain common sense. But the question still remains; can organic growing methods produce results? The good news is yes, and it can be done cost effectively. Today, many people are uncovering easy methods that replenish the soil with billions of microbes and rebuild the soil food web that nature intended. Ask John Evans of Palmer, Alaska if organic growing works. John holds nine world records for giant vegetables and swears the secret is in building a healthy soil. If you do your homework, you will learn what is really happening in and to your soil. I think you will find that organic fertilizers are far more productive and cost-effective than many would have you believe.
Problems Guide
PH troubles! 9 times out of 10 when you have sick plant problems it’s from your ph, check the water you are using.
Adding nutrients s to your water can cause the ph to get low as well, so its best to test your ph of your water before and after you add your nutrients.
Mobile Elements are mostly going to affect the older leaves first then work its way to other leaves and then the nutrients will be taken from old leaves to newer growth.
Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants, This one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is.
Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it happens anywhere on the plant.
Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then usually happens on older leaves first then goes up the plant. Your plant can be green on top then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing.
Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. Reason to this is, because the plant is using all its stored nutrients in the leaves and dropping the leaves it doesn’t need anymore due to them being the oldest leaves.
The plant starts to yellow a bit in late stages of flowering.
If you have too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil, the plant will have like a dark green look, the fan leaves will have hook at the tips. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well.
Nitrogen can be locked out by PH troubles.
Water logged soil and Soil with low organic matter.
Nitrogen is a very important element in the plant, all of them are but some are more important than others. For soil the best ph to have is 6.8. Why? Because at 6.8, that’s the best number for ALL available nutrients to be absorbed into the plant without any of them being locked out. For hydro and soil less mediums best ph to have is around 5.8.
Try not to keep your plants to cold, because the cold temps will cause the nitrogen harder for the plant to be absorbed.
PH levels for Nitrogen:
Soil levels
Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0- 5.5.
Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-8.0. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a ph of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Hydro, Soil less Mediums
Nitrogen gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0.
Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a ph of 5.5 to 8.0
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant.
And one of the most important element in flowering, Helps to germinate seedlings.
P is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus Is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stage. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of P.
Phosphorus can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and cause the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that can and or drop, The edges all around the leave or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to stick up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish purplish and yellowish as well. Sometimes the leaves can have a dullish blue color to them as well. Sometimes stems can be red and Red petioles can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
Much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous.
Many people get a P deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like one. But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are:
Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
To much Phosphorus levels can make potassium and or iron def in plants.
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium
Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.
Soil
Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (a ph over 6.5 in hydro or soil less mediums is not recommended.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Potassium plants a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Giving your plants a good amount of Potassium aids in helping your plants growing good thick stems and not falling over. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit.
Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growths and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken and or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the 2 is, potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves can happen as well as well as patches. Leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die
potassium is a soft silver-white metal that acts violently when it comes into contact with air and water. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather. Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency as well. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.
Too much Potassium in your soil can lead to big troubles like salt damage and acid faction of the root system, your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well.
Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water. Soils that are potassium fixated. An excess of (sodium) in the roots.
Soil
Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (A ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums is not recommended.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.
Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element
Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production as well as its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium should be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive. But, too much to will cause the plant to show a toxicity.
Magnesium is more of the easier def to tell… the green veins all the while yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins… sometimes Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older. It also usually happens on older leaves as well. The def will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer half of the leaves.. All the while the inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
You don’t want a high level of magnesium in your plants, because the plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium so be careful.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: Inter vein space of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.
Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles
Soil
Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7.
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.
Calcium (Ca) -Macro Nutrient is an immobile element.
Calcium is another important element that helps the plants cell walls and cell division in making the plants stems/stalks/branches stronger, as well as contributing to root growth mostly the root hairs, the newer root growths mainly. As well as enhancing the uptake of K in the plants roots. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth.
When plants exhibit a Calcium deficiency the younger leaves are the first to show it as well as leaf tip die back, tips curl, and growth of the plant is stunted as well can show a weakness in the stems and branches. Under developed root systems and can lead to bacteria problems with roots dieing off. Make sure your soil isn’t very acidic, for calcium gets harder to be absorbed through acidic soils, which leads to having a plant that is deficient in Calcium. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium. The parts affected by a calcium deficiency: the roots, Stem, petiole, & young / older leaves.
An excess of Calcium will make the cell walls fail causing the plant to die.
The stems of the plant will not be able to hold it up and will exhibit a white brown in between the veins of the leaves.
Problems with Calcium being locked out by PH troubles
Improper watering, (most common cause), very acidic soils with excessive potassium, excessively dry and or wet soil. Lack of calcium in the soil will result in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth
Soil
Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 6.4
Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a
Calcium Deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3
Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.4-5.8 Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency.
Zinc (Zn) Micro Nutrient and an Mobile element.
Zinc plays a lot of roles in the plants, first off zinc aids in the plants size and maturity as well as production of leaves and stalks/stems/branches. Zinc is a essential component in many enzymes as well as growth hormone auxin - low auxin levels cause stunting of leaves and shoots. Zinc plays an important role in the formation and activity of chlorophyll. Zinc plays a major role in the absorption of moisture (plants with adequate zinc nutrition have enhanced drought-handling capacity).
Zinc deficiencies cause Small crops: Shortened shoots produce a cluster of small, distorted leaves near the growing tip. Inter vein yellowing is often combined with overall paleness. Too little of zinc and your yields are dramatically reduced.
Inter vein sclerosis is present in small, narrow, often distorted leaves arranged at the ends of seriously shortened shoots: Also may happen is the leave size and the shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. These nutrients gets locked out due to high pH: Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together and most likely caused by a high ph. Parts affected by a zinc deficiency are young leaves and petioles.
Problems with Zinc being locked out by PH troubles
High ph, Low organic matter, High Phosphorus levels in the soil, and or lack of nitrogen.
Soil
Zinc gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.5-4.7, 7.5-9.5
Zinc absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Zinc gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels between 5.7-8.5
Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.
My Goal is to help the new guys if this Information helps just one person then it was worth my time to gather it and put it together!
I have not finished this yet! will be adding PICS but people are sensitive about there pics! so it will take time to gather them from my own garden! I know this needs alot of work!
the GROW FAQ on here is a priceless! if you are new to growing besure to look into them!
I would also like to thank the Mods who put in thier on time with no pay! to make the growing community stronger better place!
Aquaman2112
PS IF YOU ARE NEW PM me Anytime! I will help if I can!!!!
So keep the Plagerism crap to yourself The whole purpose of this Guide is To help the New People!! With that in mind I will start
for the LAW in your State Click on this LINK:
http://norml.org/
It All Starts with a seed!
We want our plants to be the best Right?
Darn right we do, now understand that this is one of the major decisions in the process of growing your own quality marijuana. Plants are like peopwebsites
le their genetic structure they receive from their parents. Marijuana is almost found globally so if you are going to be growing outside be sure to pick a strain that will finish in enough time. Most natural grown strains adapt to the weather of their region. Sativa are found normally closer to the equator where the temperatures and humidity are higher winters are milder. They also tend to take longer in the flowering process.
Indica’s are normally found further from the equator where the climates are cooler and winters are harsher. These tend to flower faster for obvious reasons.
To make sure you get the type high and potency level you desire this can take some research. There are a lot of companies online selling quality marijuana seeds online with very stealth packaging that deliver world wide. Just look on here for your seed companies
marijuana flowering phase is brought on by the light cycle turning closer to 12 hours on 12 hours off these flower are one of three sexes male, female, and hermaphrodite being a cross between the two female flowers with male pollen glands.
The female is all that is desired unless you are trying to make more seeds.
Germinating
Place 3 layers paper towels in a saucer.
Luke warm water tap is ok in most areas or use bottled to be safe,
Drain excess water but leave paper sopping wet.
Place seeds on paper in between the pieces of paper towel
place saucer in a zip lock bag place in a dark place, warm but not to hot 70-80 degrees. In between 18 – 72 hours later the seeds should crack open and a sprout will emerge from within.
Then place the sprout in the medium you have chosen be that soil or other wise.
Pots &Transplanting
Pot size is important because healthy roots mean healthy Bud sites in the research I have conducted I find that starting your seed in a 16 oz plastic cups works real well. Then when the plants reach about 8 – 10 inches high I transplant them into 1 to one & half gallon size pots till the plants reach 24-36 inches high then 3 gallon pots then 5 gallon pots so on and so forth. All of this is according to the size desired for the end product.
Roots grow outward for stability, so they collect at the sides of the container leaving most of the soil in the middle unused. This causes growth to decrease because the roots layer one upon the other slowly smothering the plant. Let the roots to collect at the edges of your pots, will ensure a more efficient root mass when transplant to a bigger pot water plants a day before transplanting so at transplanting the soil will not crumble/ break up “that can hurt your growth later”
water new pots a couple hours before transplanting so the soil will take the transplanted plants roots starting into the new moist soil.
Start transplant by placing soil in new pot then place old pot inside and finish fill the pot around the other pot, when filled all the way water outside soil then slowly bring out the transplanting pot remove plant from pot and place in the indenture left
For outside Growers I transplant from one gallon pots to 5 gal buckets fix the soil now and plant the buckets and place them in the ground for several reasons 1 Hide them from would be Thieves 2nd the soil will keep the roots cool which the plants love.
3rd I use blood & bone meal in my soil mixes which draws predators to the buckets by placing them out now they find out its nothing and move on by the time my plants get in the buckets they are safe from bigger predators that dig in the ground anyway
4th If you need to move your plants for any reason you can easier and less stressful on the plant.
There are a few tips
Sexing your plants
Flowers have what is called pistils these are hairs coming out of it are called stigmas. These get denser as the flowering process continues,
Male plants have groups of banana shaped pods that will open up to drop pollen
Most of the time males are deleted from the garden unless the person desires to make more seeds. The potency is better if the plant not pollinated.
Soil preparation
First off all let you know that any soil mixes maybe to strong for seedlings, just use potting soil without any additives.
Here is a good soil mix, though you can make you own.
Take five gallons of any choice potting soil most add time release fertilizers. like expert soil mix or junglegrowth, Shultz ect ect
Add 10% perlite
2/3 cup bone meal
2/3 cup blood meal
2 tablespoons of lime
Take and mix the ingredients really well
I personally would not fertilize at the time of transplant because some plants are more sensitive than others.
Marijuana loves good drainage and the roots love airy soils. Big healthy roots equal big healthy buds!
Light Cycles
The amount of light and darkness the plant receives per 24 hour period. The cycle is often 12/12 or 18/6 where the first number is hours of light is on and second is hours of the light being off.
Depending on the type of plant Indica or Sativa, Indica plants start to flower earlier than Sativas because of their origins. 15 hours of light will keep the plant in a vegetative cycle I prefer 18 hours of light on 6 with the light off this is like a summertime cycle for the plant in nature. Your grow room must be sealed from light leaks extra light during the flowering cycle could stress the plant and turn it in a bisexual plant not a desired trait! Plants are one of three sexes: male, female, and hermaphrodite being a cross between the two female flowers with male pollen glands.
The female is all that is desired unless you are trying to make more seeds
For the vegetative cycle, 18/6 or 24/0 both work well.
When you want to initiate flowering put light cycle to 12/12-- equal amounts of light and dark hours.
Cloning
mix a 50 perilite 50 vermiculite then mix a ¼ strength bloom fert water my pots filled with the mix and set that under my fluorescent lights .One of the most important things is to have a humidity dome. I use a 10" high Plastic tray from any garden dept. or local nursery or hydroponics store turn it upside down put holes in top ,with the humidity dome in place you do not have to water the clones as often. Cut at a 45 degree angle under a calyxes then dip that into the rooting gel or powder place the cutting into your pots now all you have too do is put your cuttings in your dome and keep it humid. Different strain take longer than others to root some will in 3 or 4 days where other may take 3 weeks or so. There are many other ways to clone this is a simple one Just cut the plant at a 45% angle and place the cutting into a glass of water leave on a window sill and root should appear.
Organic pesticides
Organic pesticides like neem-oil and pyrethrum are very effective and can be found at most nurseries and hydroponics stores
Something that works for a lot of pest is mixing
water, dish soap, lemon ammonia, hot sauce & Tobacco juice simply add some tobacco to some hot water let soak for half hour or more then add some dish soap hot sauce ammonia strain all the tobacco out place in spray bottle and apply to plants I do not advise spraying your plants with anything once you are in the flowering cycle but I do always spray them down right before I place them into flowering cycle to make sure I cut down on all that may be thinking of eating my babies. I also place no fly strips into my flowering room if you have problems with slugs then simply get them drunk and kill them, yes I am serious just bury a half a beer in your garden the snails go into the can get drunk and die in the can easy if you don’t mind sharing a beer with your grow
Harvest & Curing
all you have to do is cut the plant at the base and hang it upside down to dry. When the stems snap when you bend them and the bud should be dry. This is normally between 3 -10 days, At this point placing them in Mason jars or any airtight container glass is preferred. Keep the Temperatures between 60-72 degrees and in the dark opening the jars for 5 to 10 minutes to let out any excess moisture. As a side note light will breakdown the THC some people even harvest in the morning or if growing indoors leave the plant up to a week in the dark because THC is produced without degrading in the dark period. You want your plants to dry at an even rate. Hang the plants so that they will not touch each other because mould could appear and ruin the taste and even so potency to a degree. Keeping a constant temp and humidity will ensure a better taste and even burning.
Nutrient Disorder Problem Solver
To use the Problem-Solver, simply start at #1 below. When you think you've found the problem, read the Nutrients section to learn more about it. Diagnose carefully before making major changes.
1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown), but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P) deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Over-fertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite. Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too much N). b) If not, go to #8…
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease; copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.
The Nutrients:
Nitrogen - Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.
Phosphorous - Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Magnesium - Mg-deficiency is pretty common since marijuana uses lots of it and many fertilizers don't have enough of it. Mg-deficiency is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water) or foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart. When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil for Mg. Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.
Iron - Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rockwool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Manganese - Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.
Zinc - Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients-lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc.
Check Your Water - Crusty faucets and shower heads mean your water is "hard," usually due to too many minerals. Tap water with a TDS (total dissolved solids) level of more than around 200ppm (parts per million) is "hard" and should be looked into, especially if your plants have a chronic problem. Ask your water company for an analysis listing, which will usually list the pH, TDS, and mineral levels (as well as the pollutants, carcinogens, etc) for the tap water in your area. This is a common request, especially in this day and age, so it shouldn't raise an eyebrow. Regular water filters will not reduce a high TDS level, but the costlier reverse-osmosis units, distillers, and de-ionizers will. A digital TDS meter (or EC = electrical conductivity meter) is an incredibly useful tool for monitoring the nutrient levels of nutrient solution, and will pay for itself before you know it. They run about $40 and up.
General Feeding Tips - Pot plants are very adaptable, but a general rule of thumb is to use more nitrogen & less phosphorous during the vegetative period, and the exact opposite during the flowering period. For the veg. period try a N
:K ratio of about 10:7:8 (which of course is the same ratio as 20:14:16), and for flowering plants, 4:8:8. Check the pH after adding nutrients. If you use a reservoir, keep it circulating and change it every 2 weeks. A general guideline for TDS levels is as follows: seedlings = 50-150 ppm; unrooted clones = 100-350 ppm; small plants = 400-800 ppm; large plants = 900-1800 ppm; last week of flowering = taper off to plain water. These numbers are just a guideline, and many factors can change the actual level the plants will need. Certain nutrients are "invisible" to TDS meters, especially organics, so use TDS level only as an estimate of actual nutrient levels. When in doubt about a new fertilizer, follow the fertilizer's directions for feeding tomatoes. Grow a few tomato or radish plants nearby for comparison.
PH - The pH of water after adding any nutrients should be around 5.9-6.5 (in rockwool, 5.5-6.1). Generally speaking, the micro-nutrients (Fe, Zn, Mn, Cu) get locked out at a high pH (alkaline) above 7.0, while the major nutrients (N, P, K, Mg) can be less available in acidic soil or water (below 5.0). Tap water is often too alkaline. Soils with lots of peat or other organic matter in them tend to get too acidic, which some dolomite lime will help fix. Soil test kits vary in accuracy, and generally the more you pay the better the accuracy. For the water, color-based pH test kits from aquarium stores are inexpensive, but inaccurate. Invest in a digital pH meter ($40-80), preferably a waterproof one. You won't regret it.
Cold - Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous. Some
varieties, like equatorial sativas, don't take well to cold weather. If you can keep the roots warmer, the plant will be able to take cooler temps than it otherwise could.
Heat - If the lights are too close to the plant, the tops may be curled, dry, and look burnt, mimicking a nutrient problem. Your hand should not feel hot after a minute when you hold it at the top of the plants. Raise the lights and/or aim a fan at the hot zone. Room temps should be kept under 85F (29C) -- or 90F (33) if you add additional CO2.
Humidity - Thin, shriveled leaves can be from low humidity. 40-80 % is usually fine.
Mold and Fungus - Dark patchy areas on leaves and buds can be mold. Lower the humidity and increase the ventilation if mold is a problem. Remove any dead leaves, wherever they are. Keep your garden clean.
Insects - White spots on the tops of leaves can mean spider mites
underneath.
Sprays - Foliar sprays can have a "magnifying glass" effect under bright lights, causing small white, yellow or burnt spots which can be confused with a nutrient problem. Some sprays can also cause chemical reactions.
Insufficient light - tall, stretching plants are usually from using the wrong kind of light.. Don't use regular incandescent bulbs ("grow bulbs") or halogens to grow cannabis. Invest in fluorescent lighting (good) or HID lighting (much better) which supply the high-intensity light
that cannabis needs for good growth and tight buds. Even better, grow in sunlight.
Clones - yellowing leaves on unrooted clones can be from too much light, or the stem may not be firmly touching the rooting medium. Turn off any CO2 until they root. Too much fertilizer can shrivel or wilt clones - plain tap water is fine.
Version 1.1 - Feb. 1998 - distribution okay
Nutrient deficiencies
Nitrogen (N) deficiency the growth is slow leaves are light green or yellow this mainly starts at the bottom of the plant and works its way up the plant.
Magnesium (Mg) deficiency the tips sometimes get a twisted look turn yellow or brown with the veins still some green. This is easily fixed with ¼ teaspoon/gallon of Epsom salts or foliar feeding mix ½ teaspoon/quart. Like any nutrients less is better than to much, always be sure to not over do it.
Potassium (K) deficiency) leaves brown or yellow may have dead patches, especially around the edges of the leaves they may also be curled up.
Phosphorus (P) deficiency growth may be slow and leaves can turn yellow and drop off the plant. The leaf tips can be dieing or just yellow and/or brown the leaves are deep green and the stems and petioles may have purple and/or red in them. This is a trait of some strains as well.
Iron (Fe) deficiency leaves turn pale yellow or white but veins are still fairly green
Manganese (Mn) deficiency Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Dead spots may be between veins. Leaves are straight not curled
Zinc (Zn) deficiency Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Dead spots may be between veins. Leaves are curled
Calcium (Ca) deficiency Leaves twist, then turn brown or die if indoors lights too close to plants will do this as well
Boron (B) deficiency Leaves twist, then turn brown or die if indoors lights too close to plants will do this as well
Organic fertilizers verses chemical fertilizers
There is a lot of discussion these days about the merits of organic fertilizers. The benefits of natural fertilizers such as manures and compost have been known for years. However, it's been a costly proposition to produce and distribute organic fertilizers. Chemical based fertilizers are known to be cost-effective and can accurately supply plants with the proper balance of Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potash (NPK). With much attention to application methods and proper crop rotation, they can be very effective. Organic growing is based on the theory that plants should grow in a chemical free environment, just as they do in nature. A study of some of the richest soils in the world finds that they are teeming with microscopic life. Humus or living soil is the perfect growing environment for plants. Not only do plants thrive in this environment, they are also healthier and less stressed. Less stress means that they are better able to fight diseases and pests. Organic soils are naturally aerated by the microbes living within, and therefore hold more water. These organisms create what has been tagged the "Soil Food Web". The Soil Food Web is a microscopic ecosystem that breaks down nutrients and minerals so they can be made available to your plants naturally. Unlike chemical fertilizers, that tend to evaporate and leach into the ground water, these micro-organism's literally retain the nutrients in their own "Food Bank" and allow the plants to use what is needed now, while storing the rest for future seasons. Your plants are not only able to access the NPK they need but also the wide range of trace minerals that are so important to healthy plants.
Now let's take a second look at chemical fertilizers. With the NPK in chemical fertilizers we also get salt. Salt can be a big problem to your soil. Salt will actually kill the living organisms in your soil. With repeated applications, your soil is unable to supply the plants with their basic needs. Soon you have plants that are solely dependant on the fertilizers, not the soil! As your plants become stressed, disease and pests become a problem. We now need more chemicals like pesticides to battle the problems we created in the first place. As you can see, this is like a dog chasing his tail. Where does it all stop? Fertilizers, pesticides, fertilizers, pesticides, so on and so forth. That doesn't sound cost-effective to me.
So what is the answer? First, let's agree that organic growing makes the most sense. Regardless of how careful and conscientious we are we can never be assured that chemicals won't find their way into places they were not intended to go. Being a good steward of our environment is just plain common sense. But the question still remains; can organic growing methods produce results? The good news is yes, and it can be done cost effectively. Today, many people are uncovering easy methods that replenish the soil with billions of microbes and rebuild the soil food web that nature intended. Ask John Evans of Palmer, Alaska if organic growing works. John holds nine world records for giant vegetables and swears the secret is in building a healthy soil. If you do your homework, you will learn what is really happening in and to your soil. I think you will find that organic fertilizers are far more productive and cost-effective than many would have you believe.
Problems Guide
PH troubles! 9 times out of 10 when you have sick plant problems it’s from your ph, check the water you are using.
Adding nutrients s to your water can cause the ph to get low as well, so its best to test your ph of your water before and after you add your nutrients.
Mobile Elements are mostly going to affect the older leaves first then work its way to other leaves and then the nutrients will be taken from old leaves to newer growth.
Nitrogen (N) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Nitrogen plays a very big role in your plants, This one element is directly responsible for production of chlorophyll, photosynthesis, Amino Acids, which are the building block of Proteins. The myriad of enzymes which help the plants growth in leaves stems and the how well the vigor of your plants is.
Nitrogen is the biggest mobile element meaning it happens anywhere on the plant.
Usually the def will start on the lower to middle part of the plant, and then usually happens on older leaves first then goes up the plant. Your plant can be green on top then yellowing on the lower leaves when the deficiency is starting out. Yield will be greatly reduced without good amounts of nitrogen in your plants. Sometimes in bad cases the leaves will turn a purplish color along with the yellowing.
Unlike a magnesium deficiency, nitrogen def will start from the tips and work its way back to the leaf node. Nitrogen and Magnesium get confused. The best way to tell them apart is, nitrogen deficiency starts around the tips and works its way to the back, where a magnesium deficiency will cover the entire outer part of the leave and make the entire leaves yellow leaving the veins to stay green. If your plants are having a slow growth rate and have yellowing of the leaves, then most likely it’s a nitrogen deficiency.
Towards the end of flowering stages, the plant will show a nitrogen deficiency almost always. Reason to this is, because the plant is using all its stored nutrients in the leaves and dropping the leaves it doesn’t need anymore due to them being the oldest leaves.
The plant starts to yellow a bit in late stages of flowering.
If you have too much nitrogen in your growing mediums or soil, the plant will have like a dark green look, the fan leaves will have hook at the tips. The tips will point down but the leaves will stay up as if when you bend your fingers downwards. Leaves can be twisted when growing… mainly new growths. Roots will be under developed along with the slowing of flowering. Yields will be decreased because to much nitrogen in early stages of flowering slows down bud growth. Water uptake is slowing down from the vascular breakdown of the plants as well.
Nitrogen can be locked out by PH troubles.
Water logged soil and Soil with low organic matter.
Nitrogen is a very important element in the plant, all of them are but some are more important than others. For soil the best ph to have is 6.8. Why? Because at 6.8, that’s the best number for ALL available nutrients to be absorbed into the plant without any of them being locked out. For hydro and soil less mediums best ph to have is around 5.8.
Try not to keep your plants to cold, because the cold temps will cause the nitrogen harder for the plant to be absorbed.
PH levels for Nitrogen:
Soil levels
Nitrogen gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0- 5.5.
Nitrogen is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-8.0. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) best range to have nitrogen is a ph of 6-7. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Hydro, Soil less Mediums
Nitrogen gets locked out of Hydro, Soil less mediums at the levels of 4.5-5.0.
Nitrogen has the best absorption rate at a ph of 5.5 to 8.0
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range to have Nitrogen is: 5.0-7.0. Anything out of that range will contribute to a nitrogen def.
Phosphorus (P) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Benefit: Phosphorus does a lot of things for the plant. One of the most important parts of Phosphorus is: It aids in root growth and influences the vigor of the plant.
And one of the most important element in flowering, Helps to germinate seedlings.
P is an essential plant nutrient, and since it is needed in large amounts it is classified as a macronutrient. Phosphorus Is a MAJOR important nutrient in the plants reproductive stage. Without this element the plants will have a lot of problems blooming without proper levels of P.
Phosphorus can overall reduce the size of your plants. Not enough causes slow growth and cause the plant to become weak, to little amount of Phosphorus causes slow growths in leaves that can and or drop, The edges all around the leave or half of the leaves can be brownish and work its way inwards a bit causing the part of the leaves to stick up in the air a bit. Fan leaves will show dark greenish purplish and yellowish as well. Sometimes the leaves can have a dullish blue color to them as well. Sometimes stems can be red and Red petioles can happen when having a Phosphorus deficiency. This isn’t a sure sign of you having one though, but can be a sign. Some strains just show the red petioles and stems from its genes.
Much the overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint to the fan leaves is a good sign of a Phosphorus deficiency. Cold weather (below 50F/10C) can lock up phosphorous.
Many people get a P deficiency confused with a fungus problem because the ends of the leaves look like one. But the damage occurs at the end of the leaves and has a glass like feeling to it as if it had a ph problem. Parts affected by a phosphorus deficiency are:
Older Leaves, Whole plant, Petioles.
To much Phosphorus levels can make potassium and or iron def in plants.
As well as causing other nutrients to have absorption troubles like zinc and copper. Phosphorus flocculates when concentrated and combined with calcium
Problems with Phosphorus being locked out by PH troubles
Cold wet soils, acid or very alkaline soils, compacted soil.
Soil
Phosphorus gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Phosphorus is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-7.5 (wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Phosphorus gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 6.0-8.5.
Phosphorus is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0- 5.8. (a ph over 6.5 in hydro or soil less mediums is not recommended.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Phosphorus deficiency.
Potassium (K) Mobile Element and Macro Element
Potassium plants a big role as well. Having good amounts of potassium in your plants helps in having sturdy stems, disease-resistance, water respiration, as well aids in photosynthesis. Giving your plants a good amount of Potassium aids in helping your plants growing good thick stems and not falling over. Potassium is also found in the whole plant. It is necessary for all activities having to do with water transportation. Potassium is necessary during all stages of growth. It is especially important in the development of fruit.
Having to little of Potassium in your plants causes the plants leaves to show retarded growths and show a scorched tip and edges around the leaves. Plants may stretch and your branches can be easily broken and or weak. Don’t get this deficiency confused with iron because it almost acts like iron but to tell the difference in the 2 is, potassium the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die. Necrosis on the margins of larger fan leaves can happen as well as well as patches. Leaves will eventually die off and turn brown. Older leaves mottle and yellow between veins, followed by whole leaves that turn dark yellow and die
potassium is a soft silver-white metal that acts violently when it comes into contact with air and water. When your Relative humidity is low, you can almost bet your going to soon get a potassium deficiency from your plants perspiration.
K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather. Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency as well. SO keep those in mind… Parts affected by a Potassium Deficiency are: older leaves and leaf margins.
Too much Potassium in your soil can lead to big troubles like salt damage and acid faction of the root system, your fan leaves will show like a light to a dark yellow to whitish color in between the veins. Also leads to the other nutrients to not be absorbed properly leading to lots of other deficiency such as: magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and can cause problems with calcium as well.
Problems with Potassium being locked out by PH troubles
Soils with excessive Leeching and High ph soils and or water. Soils that are potassium fixated. An excess of (sodium) in the roots.
Soil
Potassium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.0-5.5
Potassium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.0-9.5. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Potassium deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Potassium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-4.5, 6.0-6.5.
Potassium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.7-5.3, 6.7-8.5. (A ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums is not recommended.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a potassium deficiency.
Magnesium (Mg) - Micronutrient and Mobile Element
Magnesium helps supports healthy veins while keeping a healthy leaf production as well as its structure. Magnesium is significant for chlorophyll-production and enzyme break downs. Magnesium should be present in relatively large quantities for the plant to survive. But, too much to will cause the plant to show a toxicity.
Magnesium is more of the easier def to tell… the green veins all the while yellowness of the entire surrounding leave is a dead giveaway, but sometimes that’s not always the case here. In case you have one of those where it doesn’t show the green veins… sometimes Leaf tips and edges may discolor and curl upward. Growing tips turn lime green if the deficiency progresses to the top of the plant. The edges will feel like dry and crispy and usually affects the lower leaves in younger plants, then will affect the middle to upper half when it gets older. It also usually happens on older leaves as well. The def will start at the tip then will take over the entire outer half of the leaves.. All the while the inner part will be yellow and or brownish in color, followed by leaves falling without withering. The tips can also twist and turn as well as curving upwards as if you curl your tongues.
You don’t want a high level of magnesium in your plants, because the plants will exhibit a buildup of toxic salts that will kill the leaves and lock out other nutrients like Calcium (Ca). Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium so be careful.
One of the worst problems a person can have is a magnesium def caused by a ph lockout. By giving it more magnesium to cure the problem when you are thinking you are doing good, but actually you are doing more harm then good. When the plants can’t take in a nutrient because of the ph being off for that element, the plant will not absorb it but it will be in the soil… therefore causing a buildup. A buildup will be noticed by the outer parts of the plant becoming whitish and or a yellowish color. The tips and part way in on the inner leaves will die and feel like glass. Parts affected by Magnesium deficiency are: Inter vein space of older leaves; may begin around interior perimeter of leaf.
Problems with Magnesium being locked out by PH troubles
Soil
Magnesium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0-6.4
Magnesium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1. (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Magnesium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0-5.7.
Magnesium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.8-9.1
(Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Magnesium deficiency.
Calcium (Ca) -Macro Nutrient is an immobile element.
Calcium is another important element that helps the plants cell walls and cell division in making the plants stems/stalks/branches stronger, as well as contributing to root growth mostly the root hairs, the newer root growths mainly. As well as enhancing the uptake of K in the plants roots. Calcium moves slowly within the plant and tends to concentrate in roots and older growth.
When plants exhibit a Calcium deficiency the younger leaves are the first to show it as well as leaf tip die back, tips curl, and growth of the plant is stunted as well can show a weakness in the stems and branches. Under developed root systems and can lead to bacteria problems with roots dieing off. Make sure your soil isn’t very acidic, for calcium gets harder to be absorbed through acidic soils, which leads to having a plant that is deficient in Calcium. Deficient leaf tips, edges and new growth will turn brown and die back. If too much calcium is applied early in life, it will stunt growth as well. It will also flocculate when a concentrated form is combined with potassium. The parts affected by a calcium deficiency: the roots, Stem, petiole, & young / older leaves.
An excess of Calcium will make the cell walls fail causing the plant to die.
The stems of the plant will not be able to hold it up and will exhibit a white brown in between the veins of the leaves.
Problems with Calcium being locked out by PH troubles
Improper watering, (most common cause), very acidic soils with excessive potassium, excessively dry and or wet soil. Lack of calcium in the soil will result in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth
Soil
Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 6.4
Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a
Calcium Deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3
Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.4-5.8 Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency.
Zinc (Zn) Micro Nutrient and an Mobile element.
Zinc plays a lot of roles in the plants, first off zinc aids in the plants size and maturity as well as production of leaves and stalks/stems/branches. Zinc is a essential component in many enzymes as well as growth hormone auxin - low auxin levels cause stunting of leaves and shoots. Zinc plays an important role in the formation and activity of chlorophyll. Zinc plays a major role in the absorption of moisture (plants with adequate zinc nutrition have enhanced drought-handling capacity).
Zinc deficiencies cause Small crops: Shortened shoots produce a cluster of small, distorted leaves near the growing tip. Inter vein yellowing is often combined with overall paleness. Too little of zinc and your yields are dramatically reduced.
Inter vein sclerosis is present in small, narrow, often distorted leaves arranged at the ends of seriously shortened shoots: Also may happen is the leave size and the shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. These nutrients gets locked out due to high pH: Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together and most likely caused by a high ph. Parts affected by a zinc deficiency are young leaves and petioles.
Problems with Zinc being locked out by PH troubles
High ph, Low organic matter, High Phosphorus levels in the soil, and or lack of nitrogen.
Soil
Zinc gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 4.5-4.7, 7.5-9.5
Zinc absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 5.0-7.0 (Wouldn’t recommend having a soil ph of over 7.0 in soil) Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.
Hydro and Soil less Mediums
Zinc gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels between 5.7-8.5
Zinc is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 4.0-5.5 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Zinc Deficiency.
My Goal is to help the new guys if this Information helps just one person then it was worth my time to gather it and put it together!
I have not finished this yet! will be adding PICS but people are sensitive about there pics! so it will take time to gather them from my own garden! I know this needs alot of work!
the GROW FAQ on here is a priceless! if you are new to growing besure to look into them!
I would also like to thank the Mods who put in thier on time with no pay! to make the growing community stronger better place!
Aquaman2112
PS IF YOU ARE NEW PM me Anytime! I will help if I can!!!!
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