Distinguished and Nurtured Kind

[TheBlaze]

Your plants are definitely loving the soil mix. They are a beautiful shade of green.

Some good information as well. I'm busy going through the zoolander thread you posted up.

 

[dank.frank]

It would seem, the plant I've been hype about from the Snow Monkey...is...a male. Bummer. I've made many posts over the years about the Digi Bx1 male and how he breeds. I know, the super stout, Sour Bubble growth profile with a superb Digi stank, tends to be a male plant. I've even said about 1 out of 20 plants, ALWAYS seems to surface with one of these sorts of males. They have the potential to be great studs, because they are throwbacks to Chili_B's Arnold selection.

I wasn't planning on keeping any males. However, I'll have to back burner him. Smell. Growth Profile. Leaf shape. All exactly what I look for generically. Really was hoping for a girl. If it wasn't such a massive poly-hybrid, I might even consider taking him back to Digi to start another cycle of seeds, but I think the diversity would be too great in terms of locking in any specific traits, aside from, just making more generically good herb.

I guess I need to get more seed going. Things are thinning out. Going to try a few seeds from RedSpaghetti aka House of Love. I have a few special selected feminized seeds from some of his latest workings. Red is one of those silent types that has always been there in the background encouraging and sharing and making things possible.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

I found this an interesting read. It's basically a scientific 411 for the encouragement of cannabis research, while broadly explaining what is currently known and understood. Some interesting topics come up and lots of links to the corresponding studies cited in the article.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4740396/

Something I'll highlight, that I found rather interesting, seeing as it has been discussed in a very hush hush manner by several people, including Chimera. This is only one paragraph in a very extensive article. The whole thing is as great a read.

A protocol has also been developed for the propagation of hemp via the synthetic seed technology. According to this procedure, axillary buds or nodal segments are encapsulated in calcium alginate beads (Lata et al., 2009b, 2011), which can then be stored and subsequently used for clonal propagation of the plant. This system was shown to allow the successful growth of homogeneous and genetically stable Cannabis plants even after 6 months of storage (Lata et al., 2011).

Which references,https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3550375/. The full .pdf can be downloaded.

Axillary buds of Cannabis sativa isolated from aseptic multiple shoot cultures were successfully encapsulated in calcium alginate beads. The best gel complexation was achieved using 5 % sodium alginate with 50 mM CaCl2.2H2O. Regrowth and conversion after encapsulation was evaluated both under in vitro and in vivo conditions on different planting substrates. The addition of antimicrobial substance — Plant Preservative Mixture (PPM) had a positive effect on overall plantlet development. Encapsulated explants exhibited the best regrowth and conversion frequency on Murashige and Skoog medium supplemented with thidiazuron (TDZ 0.5 μM) and PPM (0.075 %) under in vitro conditions. Under in vivo conditions, 100 % conversion of encapsulated explants was obtained on 1:1 potting mix- fertilome with coco natural growth medium, moistened with full strength MS medium without TDZ, supplemented with 3 % sucrose and 0.5 % PPM.

Encapsulation Matrix:
Sodium alginate was added in the range of 2-6 % (w/v) to full strength Murashigeand Skoog’s medium (MS) with or without 3 % sucrose. The solutions were supplemented with 0.5 μM Thidiazuron (TDZ) and 2.5 μM indole-3-butyric acid(IBA). A broad spectrum fungicide, Plant preservative mixture (PPM) in a range of 0.3-0.5 % was added to the gel matrix for in vivo experiments. For complexation, different concentrations (25-100 mM) of complexing agent (CaCl2.2H2O) were prepared in liquid MS medium containing the same adjuvents as the sodium alginate matrix but excluding the PPM. Both the solutions were autoclaved separately for 15 min at a pressure of 1.1 kg cm-2 and temperature of 121 ºC after adjusting the pH to 5.8.

Formation of beads:

The beads were formed by dropping explants mixed with sodium alginate solution
into CaCl2.2H2O in a flask, placed on an orbital shaker at 80 rpm. The resulting beads (0.5-0.8 cm in diameter)containing the entrapped nodal segments were left in the calcium chloride solution for 30 min for complexation. These were retrieved using a nylon mesh and the traces of calcium chloride was removed by washing with sterilized distilled water.

I stumbled upon all this while researching "seed priming" in an attempt to understand more about getting these old seeds to germinate. Something I've already learned, soaking and then allowing to return to an established dry weight before germinating seems to be a common practice.

Part of the take away here is learning about new products. Tween 20 and PPM for example. The other aspect of this, seems to be, just because you have callous growth and the ability to culture it, does not always result in root shoots being formed and a successful regeneration. It gives me directions to pursue, to see if the same cells are present in a seed embryo, and if these same formulations might be useful in aiding these seeds that are only giving the smallest of a tap root and then stalling out.

I think I'm going to try a 3% sucrose solution for soaking in the paper towels.



dank.Frank

 

[zif]

Sounds like the kind of male you might consider reversing with ethephon. Just seeing how the scent expresses in female flowers might be worth the effort... and then you could self him for “regular” seed stock to boot!

 

[dank.frank]

@Zif - Interesting thought. It hadn't even crossed my mind but maybe it should. If the male flowers and produces resin like his dad, then most certainly.

Cobalt Haze and Snow Monkey got put into 1 gallon pots. I expect one of the Cobalt to be a male and one to be female, but I could be wrong! This will be the last increase in pot size until all plants are sexed. Cobalt was last transplanted 5 days ago and was ready for more root space. I'm glad I can still grow a super healthy plant after all this time off. If only I could get more of them!!! Back to waiting.

dank.Frank

 

[nickman]

That’s too bad about that plant being a male...

All your plants are looking healthy and happy in that soil...

I had a quick question about your soil... I noticed that you have a barrier between your plants and the soil they’re sitting on top of... just curious what that’s for...

Also do you keep that soil in the bed moist...?...


also when someone is cooking their soil, should they keep it moist as well...

Sorry if these are stupid questions...!!!...

 

[dank.frank]

@nickman - The barrier is there because I'm trying not to make a mess when moving stuff around; the bottom of the trays or containers would be dirty otherwise. It's just a piece of scrap 6 mil plastic. No other purpose.

The soil hasn't dried out since I originally mixed it yet, so I haven't added any water to the bed yet. I actually mixed the entire thing today, just to give it a stir before planting in it here soon. But generally, yes, you want to keep it just moist enough so that it clumps and stick in the ball of your hand but doesn't form a compacted clod that won't break apart easily when just rolling it around in your palm and fingers. That's all about moisture level. Shouldn't be dripping when you squeeze it either.

So yes, it stays moist and should stay that way. Hydrophobic in a bed means a ton of run off, which could get really messy! The room has been sitting about 64-68 degrees and 58-68% relative humidity, so it isn't like there has been much evaporation. I'm not running a dehumidifier at this point either, so that affects things as well.

If they flower as well as they are vegging, this mix is golden.



dank.Frank

 

[nickman]

Thanks for the fast response...

I’ve been thinking about mulching the tops of my containers... it just seems to me that my media dries out fast... I water every two days, even the big 20 gallon totes seem to dry out fast- every two days...!!!...

I figure if I put a mulch down or straw or something it would help keep the soil more moist for a longer period of time...

Is it true that the micro herd like the media on the moist side...?...

Also, what would you recommend to use for a mulch...?...

Thanx ...!!!...

 

[dank.frank]

I'm going to play around with plastic mulches at some point, the same as would be done in a field setting.

Yes, soil biota like a moisture and thrive in it. At the same time, arid regions have specific soil biota that help plants deal with the environment. If it stays too wet, you give rise to anaerobic bacteria which thrive when there is a lack of oxygen and that is not the direction you want to go. That mucky rotting swamp smell you get with saturated soil is anaerobic bacteria.

I'm not sure I have a "preference" as much as I'm along the lines of "anything" helps. I'm honestly leaning towards a red clover for quick biomass turnaround vs some of the other cover crops. Which is to say, common way of thinking is a living mulch is best. Outside of that, I'm not sure which cover crop is best for quick term accumulation and turn around. I'm also not sure that using straw make any difference than using leaves or bark. The concept of retained moisture is achieved either way you implement it. Perhaps insuring a heavy enough coverage (at least 1 inch deep) is more important than the item used. I plan to use cannabis leaves and trimmings initially. I've already spread the plants I've culled back into the bed.

Currently, I'm watering about every 3rd day. When I water in the morning and they are drying out by the evening, it's time for a transplant into a larger volume of soil. When in the heart of flower though, I like to water daily. Fresh oxygen to the root zone daily. Hopefully, roots spread out enough in a container that come week 5, I don't have excessive humidity swings between lights on and off due to evaporation from the moisture in the soil.

Part of designing a soil media is paying attention to the details and modifying your substrate so you don't have to compromise on best care techniques. The media has to work with your style of growing.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

Part of designing a soil media is paying attention to the details and modifying your substrate so you don't have to compromise on best care techniques. The media has to work with your style of growing.

Remember, at some point in this thread I said I was altering my basic potting media mix to work better in a long term bed setting vs being in rotational cycles with containers. I know I posted what was being used in it's entirety, but I didn't compare/contrast the difference. So I'll go ahead and do that, as it is a perfect example of what I mean in the quote above.

Mix Posted in the Stank Bros sticky:

A. 3 gal dirt / earth / topsoil / nursery soil (unfertilized)
B. 1.5 gal coir
C. 2.5 gal peat
D. 3 gal aeration (chunky perlite, lava rock, permatil, etc.)
E. 1 gal EWC
------
11 gallons

Modified Bed Mix:

A. 3.5 gal compost
B. 1.25 gal coir
C. 2 gal peat
E. .5 gal EWC
E. .5 gal Black Kow
D. .5 gal vermiculite
D. .5 gal permatil
D. 1 gal perlite
-------
9.75 gallons

So to be fair, we'll look at percentages of components:

A = 27.3% vs 35.9% = + 8.6% compost
B = 13.6% vs 12.8% = - 0.8% coir
C = 22.7% vs 20.5% = -2.2% peat
D = 27.3% vs 20.5% = -6.8% aeration
E = 9.1% vs 10.3% = +1.2% humic substances

You have to make the media work for you in your given situation. Adapt it to fit your growing style and personal performance preferences and demands. Those slight little differences make it feel like an entirely different media, to be honest.



dank.Frank

 

[trichrider]

Remember, at some point in this thread I said I was altering my basic potting media mix to work better in a long term bed setting vs being in rotational cycles with containers. I know I posted what was being used in it's entirety, but I didn't compare/contrast the difference. So I'll go ahead and do that, as it is a perfect example of what I mean in the quote above.

Mix Posted in the Stank Bros sticky:

A. 3 gal dirt / earth / topsoil / nursery soil (unfertilized)
B. 1.5 gal coir
C. 2.5 gal peat
D. 3 gal aeration (chunky perlite, lava rock, permatil, etc.)
E. 1 gal EWC
------
11 gallons

Modified Bed Mix:

A. 3.5 gal compost
B. 1.25 gal coir
C. 2 gal peat
E. .5 gal EWC
E. .5 gal Black Kow
D. .5 gal vermiculite
D. .5 gal permatil
D. 1 gal perlite
-------
9.75 gallons

So to be fair, we'll look at percentages of components:

A = 27.3% vs 35.9% = + 8.6% compost
B = 13.6% vs 12.8% = - 0.8% coir
C = 22.7% vs 20.5% = -2.2% peat
D = 27.3% vs 20.5% = -6.8% aeration
E = 9.1% vs 10.3% = +1.2% humic substances

You have to make the media work for you in your given situation. Adapt it to fit your growing style and personal performance preferences and demands. Those slight little differences make it feel like an entirely different media, to be honest.



dank.Frank

is that contrast indicative of eliminating 'dirt' and if so what was your reasoning?

did you not have agreeable results with dirt ?

 

[dank.frank]

Nothing "wrong" with the previous mix - considering compost is just a few degrees of degredation away from being dirt. Nursery soil, is just screened compost. The local natural soil is a sandy loam with clay deposits and not the best for soil building. It's also just availability of resources as well. I happen to have access to excellent oak/pine compost so I'm making the best of it.

The main point of writing it that way though, was so people don't think "dirt" means FFOF or another, already amended bagged soil, seeing as Phillthy's recipe posted in that same sticky does call for the usage of such a product.

So it's not really a shift in ingredient, as much as it is a shift in ratios. More organic matter, less aeration. I wanted more water retention and a slow draining media given the entire bottom of the bed is mesh. I wanted to attempt to minimize runoff. Using the local sandy soil wouldn't help me in the long run when it comes to retaining moisture.

I had mentioned the compost being used wasn't sifted and still had some wood shavings and small twigs or stem pieces in it that would to some degree create space within the media much the same way drainage amendments would. I also wanted the woody bits though for long term support for bacteria and fungi in a no till system.

Just adapting it slightly to the circumstances. Notice in the basic soil mix I don't break down the split between drainage amendments either. I've always used a 3 part drainage mix but haven't always shared that detail. Using the 3 part works magnitudes better than trying to use straight perlite or straight permatil. Vermiculite, is not really for drainage but retention, and don't tell my secret, but it is an extremely useful clay for increasing CEC in a soil and thus nutrient retention. There is just as much permatil and vermiculite in the 9.75gal mix as in the 11gal mix. There is just as much "humic" material in both mixes, although it's split between two different products. The difference was a reduction in perlite and an increase in the compost, then offset for desired volume specifics by slightly reducing peat moss and increasing coir, yet staying at roughly the same volume of coireat in ratio to each other. (1:1.67 vs 1:6)


Honestly, these changes seem minor, but I really like the feel and behavior of this media. It seems like an improvement, if using root health as the metric.




dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

On a different topic, I just counted and realize I only have 15 more GG#4 x Snowman seeds. Considering, only 3 plants from the last 10 seeds, the plant I was excited about that is indeed a male, will without question be saved.

I'm going to have to put some focus on making an F2 at some point with these seeds. I might as well, circle back around, and make those the next thing I try to sprout another 5 of those with the 2 Sour Dog x Mendo Purps fems from Red.



dank.Frank

 

[genetic freaked]

I just checked my stash and I only have 10 seeds left of Snow Monkey.
Of course I have a ton of UKchemxSnowman OGXxSnowman and sssdhxsnowman and none of the one I actually wanted a ton of.
But that’s the way the cookie crumbles.
I’ll get you pics of my Snow Monkeys by tomorrow the latest. I have something I feel is special just hope it’s a female. I’ll need your eye for these.

I’m dropping the only 2 Grom BX2 I have a I might pop the GromxDigi Ix. Would be cool to cross the Grom to the GromxDigi.
I would shit if I found another male like that. But I know the seeds will be fire since it’s snowman crossed to that crazy potent female

 

[genetic freaked]

I just realized I have 3 Grom BX2!!!

 

[dank.frank]

@G_F - Get some pics up in this thread!

The male, from best I can tell, is a Chem Sis/Sour Bubble expression, with a Digi terp profile. I'm not going to let him go with out putting him to work on something. He just reeks to no end. Seriously amazing smelling plant.

I'm not overly impressed with the one I'm fairly sure must be female. It does smell like GROM. White grape juice with hints of rotting fruit though - a bit like soured peach or something sweet. It's there, but it isn't overly intense. However, the leaves of this plant did have the most visible trichomes on the early leaves and it's structure is nearly perfect. Going to have that christmas tree type shape to it.

The SSH x Wet Dream - look to me like a mix of OGKB and Blue Dream with other stuff I don't quite recognize at all. There are a ton of genetics in this mash up and I'm hoping for a nice high yielding plant with thick colas. Structure wise and growth rates, don't eliminate this being a fair possibility. SSH throws countless phenos though. This set of genes is a whole new experience for me, so you don't see me commenting much on them with expectations or clues to what I see showing in the line. I just don't know enough about it. All I'm after is a great plant and I know Abja can make a great plant.

If I'm bored, I'll just take whatever females left in the mix and hit a branch with this male just because he's here.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

Well, the tallest plant of the ABF Cobalt Haze, has shown sex as female. It's clearly a hybrid plant, but these growth rates are exactly what I'd need for a great SOG option. I'm excited now about this plants. I assumed it would be a male. Smell on the stem rub is a sweet, fruity cookie type smell with a bit of gas.

dank.Frank

 

[Hammerhead]

Plants are looking killer..



I have a question

whats the difference between Sherb and GSC if any?. I've been reading as much as I can find about Sherb. What I've found indicates there the same?. I thought you might know more about this. I will ask ABF as well.

 

[nickman]

Plants are looking really good buddy... how big will you let them get before flipping...?...

You wanna know something, I never get smells on stem rubs... hardly ever... I might get that generic plant smell but never gas or fruity or nothing like that. ....

Maybe it’s just me... IDK.!. ...

 

[Hammerhead]

I got a reply from ABF. He gave me the info I needed