What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Tutorial How to Make Full Melt Dry Sift!!! photo essay

bubbleman

Well-known member
Veteran
so today I'm going to take you thru extracting and cleaning your dry sift will take you thru three separate screens and the process that will help you clean your farmers grade hash which is generally 75% contaminant sometimes higher even.

So first shot is a simple product shot of the box.

dont think you need the box to do this.. just the screens. The three screens the box uses is a 140u, a 107u and a 70u. three screens will give us just the control we need to produce the fullmelt dry sift that is in my opinion the holy grail of Hash.



So let's open up our bubblebox and get this show starred. If you don't have a bubblebox you can get one at Freshheadies.com and if your not as commited to having the top quality tools you can buy just the screens inside for less than half the price of the box. Box is built to last with birds eye maple and double strength hinges The screens come with a wood cover on top and a set of keys to lock it when your done using it . you can also get these screens stretched over frames for you at your local silk screener.



Bubbleman Logo burned into the lid



So originally I sold this box for people who didn't smoke much hash or make any hash for that matter. I figured they could break up their joints over the screens and collect the resin this way. But really what I was doing was teaching them unwittingly how to make great #drysift. Our top screen on the bubble box is a 140u so the perfect size heads can fall thru. Sure some strains may have larger heads by generally a 140 is a safe top screen size. Breaking up your nugget into powder is ideal for dry sifting and joint rolling so double bonus this top screen will keep the majority of the cannabis on the top of the screen while allowing smaller things to fall thru. Because we don't have the help of water keeping everything afloat (like with bubblebags) a lot of contaminant will fall thru that's ok. This is why we use more than one screen



So because I don't actually smoke joints in gonna card this herb gently over the screen. Making sure to get as much of the resin to fall thru as possible. Just remember when you do this you also get a lot of contaminant which will make for even longer cleaning process

 
Last edited:

bubbleman

Well-known member
Veteran
So let's lift the top screen (140u) and see what's fallen thru. Remember I just did a super quick run here so my main point here isn't to make a ton it's to show you how to clean what youve extracted and you will quickly learn the more gently you extract he initial batch he easier it will be to clean up #drysift #bubblebox #multiscreen Second screen is a 107micron. I also put the screen sizes in LPI which stands for lines per inch



So here is the material that was carded for a little under 3 minutes and produced a single screen Dry sift.. which to the naked eye looks great. however with the help of my macro lens i am going to LIFE THE VEIL of why most dry sift does NOT MELT.



A little closer on the drysift an you can see a lot of capitate stalks an cystolith hairs. Ie those long white things. They are non glandular and non medicinal. This is a farmers grade soft that desperately needs to be cleaned over some second and third screens what we can do is place this 140u micron screened hash on top of our secondary 100u micron screen and gently card the material thru. I used my ski pass card but any ridged card will do. You must be gentle while doing this.



So now I will place the first screened #drysift on top of my secondary screen 107u is the screen size. What we do now is GENTLEY card the resin Back and forth. This screen may allow everythin thru which is fine. what it's doing is breaking up the powder to ready it for further cleaning



So this is basicaly what you want to do with your single screened #drysift Place it on top of the 107u screen and gently card back and forth. Don't be surprised I it all goes thru. This is ok. Next screen will clean everything we don't want

 

bubbleman

Well-known member
Veteran
Well I carded it for about 5minutes and this was what was under my second screen sittin on top of my third 70u screen Now pretty much everything came thru but it made it smoother and more broken down which will make the next steps easier



I spent 10 minutes on the third screen 107u micron. Gently back a forth pushing all non glandular material thru the screen leaving us with a much cleaner process. I will clean for an additional 5 minutes each time to show you how clean it's getting. This is patient work #cleaningyourdrysift next up a shot of this up close.



after 10 minutes of carding to the trained eye it's cleaner. However. Not clean enough. I'd say easy over 50% contaminant still. Let's get back to work. Did I mention this is an artform and to get a pure product takes PATIENCE and is completely counter intuitive to what you THINK you will need to do. Which is extract hard and heavy ( get tons of contaminant) and then clean to much at once which never works).




Well it's just now starting to look better to me at 15minutes of carding over the 70u screen. Still plenty of contaminants but much less than where we started. I would say we are around 35% non glandular material in this drysift , clearly we are not done yet. Back to the bubblebox



here we have the same material now worked for 20 minutes and you can see its getting cleaner. We are seeing less and less capitate stalks and cystolith hairs and more of a concentration of Glandular trichome heads.

 

bubbleman

Well-known member
Veteran
After 25 minutes of patient carding the dry sift is starting to get towards a 80% plus pure gland heads. this should now melt in a bowl.



Lets see if it melts in a bowl... loading up with my Skillettool



pre melt shot



pre melt macro shot



Well its meltling but no where near Fullmelting. So we have more work to do. ( gotta admit it tasted amazing )

 

bubbleman

Well-known member
Veteran
After carding for 30 minutes the hash is closer to a 90% purity than 80% . Still lots of contaminant but im sure the melt will be a little more this time around



a little bit closer on that 30 minute worked dry sift. lets smoke a hit of this again




well its definitly still got some plant matter and contaminant in it but the melt factor is higher and the taste was much more concentrated.



here is a naked eye perspective of the 30 minute carded dry sift. You can see even with the eye there are bits of things that don't belong.. i guess we're still not done.

 

bubbleman

Well-known member
Veteran
Ok so this is really what we have all been waiting for.. the 95% plus pure heads.. getting em cleaner and cleaner and although i can't make a kilo at a time yet.. i can definitly get those heads into a near 99% purity in small amounts.. here's what i got after 35 minutes of carding gently.



another shot of a small rock of glandular trichome heads



here's some poured out onto the my bubblebox, still a little contaminant in there but damn if its not mostly headies.




and how about a PURE HEADS shot.. thats what we all want to see generaly 100% pure glandular trichome heads


 

bubbleman

Well-known member
Veteran
I also wanted to add to this what we cleaned out of all those headies and why dry sift is such a small return> The 70u screen we used will still let gland heads fall thru , but they are smaller than 70u and generaly not the best of the best. I know people who enjoy their 45u bubble but i personaly smoked mostly the 120µ-73µ bubble and thats where my enjoyment lies. So there will still be some active's under your final screen on the catch plate but they will be best in my opinion for making edibles.
Here you see the high percentage of capitate stalks and cystolith hairs with some smaller heads mixed in.. this is why most peoples dry sift DOES NOT MELT..



another shot of the botton catch plate . as you can see with multi screen dry sifting you do not get the BEST at the bottom of the catch plate.. that is reserved for the top of our last screen 70µ





and so as to not leave you with a nasty shot like that for the end of an informative thread i will post one more shot of the bowl im about to consume..




Also if you would like to see how effective i was in getting this non melty dry sift to melt.. please feel free to watch this short youtube video. The title is a mistake it wasnt 40 minutes of carding it was 35!!
[YOUTUBEIF]8nPjekZ9WdE[/YOUTUBEIF]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nPjekZ9WdE&feature=youtu.be
 
Last edited by a moderator:

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
Very Beautiful drysift and thank you for sharing the process with such well taken pictures. Full melt dry sift is a true a art, very few who master the technique or even try these days. I can't wait to get a new set of screens and have go.

Anyone ever dab fullmelt drysift on ti or quartz?
 
C

Chamba

excellent tutorial! Extremely clean dry sifted hashish like that is the pure essence of the plant, it's the ultimate.

and the best part about pure dry sift compared to good quality dry sift is the impact of the high......good dry sift tastes good and gets you high, but the pure really hits much harder warming your ears, sweating up your forehead and giving your brain a Zing! and the taste is ten times better and the other great thing about pure dry sift is that it only takes a tiny amount to achieve a much better experience than by smoking bowl after bowl of the usual mostly contaminated sift that most make with a single screen.

I'd also suggest to add that when sifting at room temperatures, do not try this advanced method with bud or sugar leaf that is only a few weeks old, as although the plant matter is dry enough to sift, the trichomes often take months to lose moisture and become less "gooey" and so may easily rupture and get squashed on the screens....this does three things, the screens become partially blocked, it prolongs the process and you end up with less of the stuff that gets you high. Sam Skunkman's mentioned he uses plants that have been dried for 6 months to make his 99.9% dry sift.

To speed up the process, at the expense of quantity while achieving a similar result, is to stop carding when for example only 50% of the rough sift has been carded or vibrated through the 107 micron screen as the heavier, rounder trichomes tend to pass through at a greater rate initially than the rough shaped lighter weight bits of broken plant matter. Then work this sift over the 70 micron mesh.

Another way is to work the rough sift over the 107 micron mesh, when about 80% has passed through, stop, clean the 107 micron screen by upturning off at the side and tapping it out to get rid of any bits of contaminant in or on the mesh and then re-sift the hash that has passed through the same 107 mesh again, stopping when about 80% has passed through the mesh..doing this should leave you with a slightly cleaner sift....then work the sift over the 70 micron mesh.

Happy Sifting!
 
Last edited:

rasras

Active member
Anyone ever dab fullmelt drysift on ti or quartz?


Im big fan of dabbing drysift on ti. Its easy way to see how potent your drysift/strain is. If your drysift does have some legs etc they just stays in your nail after head has bubble away. Love it! How i do it: I like to make small paddle and dab that to red nail. Mi-cro-dab`s


Fresh/just dried material gives most flavor in my view, but it need to be process in extremely cold temperatures that way your resin head`s dont need to dry out first.

Give thanx to B-man for sharing this.
 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
awesome job, thanks for sharing. hope you don't mind i embedded the youtube link. that is some amazingly bubbly dry sift!
 

CannabisTHC

Member
Oh so this is what you were trying to explain to me in chat when you were in Amsterdam, didn't realize how much processing needed to be done to make full melt dry sift. Makes me want one of your bubble box's might have to pick one up. Thanks for the tutorial!
 
Top