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Need advice on how strong I should be feeding.

I have been growing nothing but GG4 for a long time, which was great since I was told exactly how to feed, starting at 300 PPM, then never more than 650 PPM through flower, or it would turn out badly.

Nutrient strength depends on light intensity (and spectrum). Should be able to get a feel for it in veg running dim lights and less nutes. That said I don't even know what a ppm is. There's 3 different EC scales... When I see arbitrary math I tend to ignore it. Because there's no such thing as subjectivity in numbers.
 
Tip burn is tip burn and over feeding is over feeding.

What is tip burn then? If I grow from seed, water only, and tip burn doesn't show up for weeks, water only... then it's obviously a deficiency of some sort. Just like plants losing their smell in veg, then gaining it back after transplant. There's this trope of overfeeding, but it's the deficiency that actually is responsible for the problem when it comes to imbalance. If you over feed anything it'll be nitrogen, if that happens, flush with nutes that nitrogen antagonizes, and nutrients that metabolize nitrogen. Not plain water.


The thing is, when done properly, cannabis, even though it is an accumulator, only does so when things are out of balance.

Which is why terroir is and always will be a flaw in my book. If your weed tastes like dirt, or peppers in your garden or the trees next door or what ever, you likely had phosphorus deficiency, which signals the plant to steal carbs from the soil since its not metabolizing its own starches.
 

Hopefull Stoner

Active member
I had to stop cat page one because you want folks to spoon feed you as if you can’t function with simple concepts on your own. Smdh

All the details expected for your each exact strain lol wtf you lazy fuk you.

Yes, the folks who are giving u simple good advice isn’t enough for you apparently. You just think up more questions.

Find a basic grow guide:book and do your homework like we all have too. Well, maybe not you cause you = ask and I shall receive just because.

I hate growers like you frankly and always have and will. All the newb/basic questions can be answered in the threads. You want personal coaching for free 😱💯🤪
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
I had to stop cat page one because you want folks to spoon feed you as if you can’t function with simple concepts on your own. Smdh

All the details expected for your each exact strain lol wtf you lazy fuk you.

Yes, the folks who are giving u simple good advice isn’t enough for you apparently. You just think up more questions.

Find a basic grow guide:book and do your homework like we all have too. Well, maybe not you cause you = ask and I shall receive just because.

I hate growers like you frankly and always have and will. All the newb/basic questions can be answered in the threads. You want personal coaching for free 😱💯🤪
Self important assholes are what has ruined this site!!! #SALT.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
What is tip burn then? If I grow from seed, water only, and tip burn doesn't show up for weeks, water only... then it's obviously a deficiency of some sort. Just like plants losing their smell in veg, then gaining it back after transplant. There's this trope of overfeeding, but it's the deficiency that actually is responsible for the problem when it comes to imbalance. If you over feed anything it'll be nitrogen, if that happens, flush with nutes that nitrogen antagonizes, and nutrients that metabolize nitrogen. Not plain water.




Which is why terroir is and always will be a flaw in my book. If your weed tastes like dirt, or peppers in your garden or the trees next door or what ever, you likely had phosphorus deficiency, which signals the plant to steal carbs from the soil since its not metabolizing its own starches.
Tip burn in a water only organic soil is a result of imbalance in the provision of nutrition - over feeding is over feeding. Could also be caused by allowing the soil to get to dry so the roots are left vulnerable to burn. Could be from poorly mixed media and the roots hitting a hot spot of a given amendment with high bio availability.

BURN - is not deficiency. Many plant symptoms may appear similar, but onset and progression of symptoms helps determine causation.

I run a specific nutrient profile based in lbs per acre of elemental nutrition. I use 740lbs per acre of nitrogen. I also use multiple varied sources of input for nitrogen provision. If I used ONLY blood meal, I'd still burn my plants up due to the bio-availability of blood meal vs something like crab meal which requires more time to be broken down to be converted into a proper ionic form for uptake.

Terrior - is not just about soil type alone. It includes soil mineralization, but also includes many other abiotic factors contributing to crop expression...ie phenotype and is studied for reproducibility in future crop cycles. It's not a flaw in anything any more than asking other indoor growers about their temps, pH, air flow, humidity, etc, etc.

It's all agriculture. It's the same game. The French just have a word for it to give added value for marketing concepts that allow brands to differentiate themselves.

Napa Valley preaches micro-climate. Japan prefecture Koyto has what they call kyoyasai - that denotes a particular crop as being superior for it's preferred long term cultivation over other similar vegetables, similar to what others would call heirloom.

Just the way things are.



dank.Frank
 
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Three Berries

Active member
Yes! It is usually an indication of residual feed left behind which concentrates in the media used. FWIW (mind you I don't grow in coir) I have dialed in my watering/dry and feed cycles, to where it needs to be, pretty much regardless which strain I am growing. I hope that helps :tiphat:

Forgot to add, I am really anal when it comes to maintaining proper VPD throughout the growing cycle, which IMHO is an extremely important factor. :)
How do you handle the lights off VPD?
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Hey! So I've grown in pretty much every medium and style from organic compost, organic amendments, canna a+b and coco, GH 3 part in promix, GH 3 part in coco, GH Micro+Bloom in coco, dwc, rdwc blah blah....But now I run coco exclusively.

Here what I've learned with coco and feeding. First off, coco is different than peat moss. It has 0 nutritional value, feels like peat, drains easier, holds less water and maintains a great air/water ratio. But it needs to stay wet! If you're getting over drying or light/dry coco rings at the top - things can go wrong almost instantly. Coco is hydro, would you let your DWC bucket go dry? No!

I've switched from GH 3 part to just micro and bloom with great results. I also use House of Gardens Drip clean and Mr Fulvic. I normally run 5ml/gal micro and 7.5ml/gal bloom. With my tap water this puts me right around 550-600ppm. ~1EC +/-. I cannot hand water as I run small container size and big plants, so I use a fertigation setup with pump-to-pvc manifold to 1/4" tubing/emitters. I fertigate 5-6x a day for 30s-2min depending on time, day, environment etc.

As many has stated with coco, less is more unless you run 1000ppfd and c02 above 800ppm. I do not. I usually keep my LEDs 18-24" from the tops and 60% for around 650-800ppfd. I do everything in coco - seeds, clone, veg and flower. I use my 5/7.5ml + 1ml fulvic for (almost)everything! Doesn't matter if it's for fresh cuts, mom's or switching to flower.

I feed my moms 5/7.5ml +1ml fulvic. When I switch to flower I usually put an additional 1ml-2.5ml calmag. You can use a 1-0-0 or 2-0-0 calmag if you want the first couple weeks of flower but I recommend a "no N Calmag" afterwards. I use the 5-7.5ml thru stretch (2-4 weeks) then I use 6/9ml + fulvic for mid-late and taper it back down to 0 for the last two days.

The most important part is to feed often, or enough to flush fresh nutes thru the medium at least once a day depending on needs. Personally, I run 1-2gal nursery pots with spray tip emitters (45s-1min) 5x a day and expect to see 10% runoff each time. My method can be considered wasteful (drain to waste) but it keeps O2 level optimal, fresh nutes plentiful, and flushing often. With this method and 5/7.5 - 6/9 I rarely see deficiencies (major ones) nor do I get buildup. One thing I've started doing for additional piece of mind is to flush 1-2 times thru the flowering cycle. That means week 3 and 6 I will run a container sized amount (usually 1 gallon) of fresh nutes with beneficials thru each plant. This ensures beneficial #s and also a good washing of the media.

I would say look at expected flowering times, if your plant needs 8-9 weeks, you should be ok with peak EC around 1.2-1.5 (600-800ppm) as long as you keep the media wet and flushing. If you're running a longer sativa (10-16 weeks) you can drop the numbers because they feed longer and require less EC over time.

I hope this helps. Let me know if I can clarify or expand on anything! Best of luck 🤘
Thanks. My concern is I was sent some OG's once (think wifi og and fire og) and was told they could take 2000 PPM. I guess defficiency is easier to catch. I am partially color blind and have difficulty seeing shades of colors so slow to catch fading. I hand water. How do you collect runoff?
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
What is your light intensity (total wattage per area) and your pot size? CO2? Average temp? If you’re really pushing your plants you could feed up to 1500 ppm but most people stay around 1000 ppm for dark green vigorous plants. The best weed (in my experience) is produced around 1250 ppm. Don’t overload the PK (bloom boost) stay around 1 gram per gallon or less of powdered bloom boost and 6 grams per gallon or less of powdered base nutrients total. Taper the base down to around 4 grams per gallon around week 5 or 6 depending on strain. Taper down to around 2 grams per gallon around weeks 7 or 8 depending on strain. One to two week flush and you’ll be straight (very controversial topic)

Check the runoff on flush before you harvest it should be less than 700 ppm (preferably way less)
3 gallon air pots. Tips of tallest buds around 950 uMol. Had been neglecting after spider mite nightmare. I am going to try monitoring runoff, increasing slowly till signs of build up.
 

iStruggle

Active member
I had to stop cat page one because you want folks to spoon feed you as if you can’t function with simple concepts on your own. Smdh

All the details expected for your each exact strain lol wtf you lazy fuk you.

Yes, the folks who are giving u simple good advice isn’t enough for you apparently. You just think up more questions.

Find a basic grow guide:book and do your homework like we all have too. Well, maybe not you cause you = ask and I shall receive just because.

I hate growers like you frankly and always have and will. All the newb/basic questions can be answered in the threads. You want personal coaching for free 😱💯🤪
What a piece of shit you are. Why are you even here?
 

spadedNfaded

Active member
Veteran
Thanks. My concern is I was sent some OG's once (think wifi og and fire og) and was told they could take 2000 PPM. I guess defficiency is easier to catch. I am partially color blind and have difficulty seeing shades of colors so slow to catch fading. I hand water. How do you collect runoff?
I have 4x4 drain trays that have a common drain. If I'm testing just one of them I'll use a turkey baster to collect some sample running out the bottom of the container. It's not much but I only need 4-5oz in a cup to test pH and ppm. some strains are more resilient than others. The trick is to start low and raise as they get bigger. Some of the plants I have can take more, but others can't and they're all on the same feed. They don't look hungry, so I don't stress them out.
 

Hopefull Stoner

Active member
What a piece of shit you are. Why are you even here?
to help newbies grow up to be real growers who first try and seek on their own like men, then when they have exhausted their own resources, they ask for help. old timers love to help folks who are putting in real effort to solve their issues. we rather ignore/Chastie those that do not.
so if i am what you say i am. wtf does that make your who are less than i?

please don't burst a blood vessel trying to figure that out. ur better off trying the learn the plant. besides i gave u good advice and u just ignore it because u didn't like how i told/scolded you. fyl
 

iStruggle

Active member
to help newbies grow up to be real growers who first try and seek on their own like men, then when they have exhausted their own resources, they ask for help. old timers love to help folks who are putting in real effort to solve their issues. we rather ignore/Chastie those that do not.
so if i am what you say i am. wtf does that make your who are less than i?

please don't burst a blood vessel trying to figure that out. ur better off trying the learn the plant. besides i gave u good advice and u just ignore it because u didn't like how i told/scolded you. fyl


You havent given me advice-nor do i want or need it. Youre suggesting someone waste time and resources learning from trial and error. Do you not understand the purpose of message boards? People are here to learn and people are here to help. Get over yourself. The way you responded to the TS is ridiculous, over 25 years on boards and i have never seen someone conduct themselves in such a way.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
You havent given me advice-nor do i want or need it. Youre suggesting someone waste time and resources learning from trial and error. Do you not understand the purpose of message boards? People are here to learn and people are here to help. Get over yourself. The way you responded to the TS is ridiculous, over 25 years on boards and i have never seen someone conduct themselves in such a way.
I am guessing it is the cornholio that has been spreading pesticide resistant 2 spot spider mites to customers for over a year. I tried to avoid naming directly, but someone asked. Had a dozen messages from others that got from same seller and same plant (chedawg #4). 3 months and still have them.

That is exactly what I was looking for. Intelligent advice from others growing same strains. Not some self important a-holes gobshite.
 
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